Murder Inc. (the book)
Many of the techniques and devices discussed in this book
Are extremely dangerous and possibly illegal. Before attempting
To perform any act or use any equipment and techniques discussed
Herein, the reader is advised to receive professional opinion (ha!),
And to ensure that he is in complete compliance with all federal,
State, and local laws and regulations (HA!), and is not in any way
Endangering themselves or others. This book is for academic study only.
Table of Contents
Chapter 1: The Mark
Chapter 2: Unarmed Kills
Chapter 3: Edged and Piercing Weapons
Chapter 4: Gun Kills
Chapter 5: Defenestration and Hit and Run
Chapter 6: Garrote and Zip Guns
Chapter 7: Explosives
Chapter 8: Poisons
Chapter 9: Silent Movement
Chapter 10: Protecting your "ass"ets
Chapter 11: Planning the Hit
Chapter 12: Getting In
Chapter 13: The Human Factor
Chapter 14: Make 'em Talk
Chapter 15: Equipment
Hitmen, cleaners, murderer’s, assassins, professional killers. Very few people ever consider killing as a profession; but for more people than the world’s governments care to admit, killing other people is indeed their profession.
Does "our" government train killers? Of course it does. Every government does. To believe otherwise is stupid. Today, the C.I.A., the D.I.A., the N.S.A., and each special operations branch of our armed forces all maintain elite “termination squads.”
Then there is the Mafia, every person on this planet knows about a Mafia of some sort. Mafia hitmen are the most dangerous killers. Patriotism or nationalism doesn’t motivate them. They do it all for money. Fortunately, they are used exclusively in the organized crime communities to kill informants, thieves, traitors, and the like.
Regardless of who their employers be, all pro killers use similar techniques. It is these methods that assassins universally employ that we will learn about in the following chapters.
This book is compiled of personal knowledge and files I feel are common to the professional assassin’s field of work.
I've never written a book before so if it sucks ass please forgive me.
To kill efficiently and proficiently one must understand the human anatomy and it’s weaknesses. That means the killer must have a great understanding of vital body organs, nerve centers, pressure points, and so forth. This does not mean you attempt an assassination with your bare hands, which would be totally foolish. Only a retard would attempt an assassination when a perfectly good weapon is available.
THE BASICS OF TERMINATING HUMAN LIFE
One critical factor that must always be kept in mind by the professional is that no victim is going to cooperate in his or her own execution. This may sound absolutely ridiculous but it’s not. Too many students of the art of assassination fail to understand just how much resistance a person will have when fighting for his life.
From the latter, it should be easy to understand, that when at all possible, the element of surprise be used. The surprise factor should eliminate any chance of mark becoming alert and have that adrenaline rush jump in causing much unnecessary trouble.
Killing isn’t some little game you play like “cowboys and Indians.” The mark doesn’t get up when the game is over. To kill, you can not have any compunction for another’s life. Walking up behind someone, using a weapon to kill an unarmed, unsuspecting target is one of if not the hardest things you could ever do in life.
One of my friends said it best when we were walking down the halls of our school a few years ago. He said, “I don’t even see faces when I walk down the halls, all I see are faceless nothings. These people mean less to me than the gum on the bottom of my shoe.” That is the kind of mindset necessary to be a professional killer.
By using the element of total surprise whenever possible, a lethal attack can be rather quickly executed against the following vital areas of the target’s body.
FRONT DEATH TARGETS:
1. Top center of the head
An instantly fatal deep thrust can be executed here with an ice pick, combat knife, or a bayonet.
2. Front of the head
A killing blow here is easy to administer with a steel pipe or bar, a black jack, a club or other heavy bludgeoning objects.
Heavy objects will kill when applied with maximum force here. It’s also a great target for small arms fire, too.
4. Bridge of the nose
An instantly fatal target for a bullet. Providing a heavy object delivers a very forceful blow here can also be fatal. Even an empty handed blow here can be fatal, if you’ve ever seen the movie “Con Air” with Nic Cage, the final move he did on the drunk was called the Black Death. It’s taught by the military in unarmed combat.
The eyes are one of the best targets for small arms fire. They are also good for gouging in unarmed self-defense. They are also good for thrusting assaults with combat knives. The main reason these points are lethal, is the fact that they are points of easy access to the brain.
A good spot for a knife thrust a bullet and so on.
7. Sides of the neck
Fatal attack point for knives, hatchets, and garrotes.
8. Testicles (oooh!)
Although not a fatal point, it can be used as a setup to a kill. If you’ve ever been kicked in the balls you know it’s not the greatest feeling in the world. A front kick (or back) to the groin easily disables the target long enough to proceed in the killing of the target.
9. Cardiac Plexus
Another good target for a knife thrust. A bullet in the heart is obviously fatal. A well-trained martial artist can kill with a well-placed elbow or heel kick to this area.
REAR DEATH TARGETS:
1. Back of the skull and base of neck
An excellent target for assassination, a sharp knife-edge blow to the base of the skull, a bullet, or a sharp instruments i.e. knife, hatchet, steel pipe, etc.
2. Spinal column
Another good target for a hatchet, axe, or machete. A bullet is also a good choice for elimination, especially a shotgun bullet (shell).
A good target for a deep knife thrust a hit here is a definite kill. Why? The kidneys contain all the excrement such as urine and all the poisons that the body needs to get rid of, so you can see that a thrust here would release all these poisons into the body.
4. Anus (Aggh!)
Sad but true, how you ask is this a good place for a kill? Well you have an unconscious target you ram the barrel of the gun (.22) up his anus and fire. The reason it’s good? The muscles of the butt cause the cartridge to be silenced. Only for those special occasions obviously… man I feel dirty.
Specific ways to kill a mark are numerous. It all depends on the training and focus that the assassin has taken. It also depends on the mark… i.e. if the mark is known to have chronic heart problems, a well-placed blow to the cardiac plexus would do the job.
Unarmed Killing Techniques
Although unarmed killing isn't the best way to kill a mark, it's one of the quietest. There have been numerous killers in the world who've killed with nothing but their bare hands. I say congratulations to them. I wouldn't suggest it though. I wouldn't suggest it, but since I'm here to tell you about all the aspects of killing, I'm going to.
Unarmed Kill #1
From a natural, non-combative position in front of the target, snap a karate-style front snap kick with your instep up into his testicles. Try to deliver the kick with the intention of lifting the target off the ground. If you are very close to the target, your shinbone connecting with his testicles will be just as effective as your instep.
Seize the target's hair with a strong, hard grip and with the opposite hand whip a hand-edge chop down as powerfully as you are able, directly into the nape of his neck, as you jerk his head up with your hair-grip.
Although the chop to the target's neck will almost be certainly be a broken neck, follow through instantly by raising your striking hand again and delivering a second blow to the exact same point. Now deliver a third hand-edge blow to the target's kidney. Keep the grip on their hair.
Jerk the target to the ground, if in fact he has not already begun to crumple totally, and get on his back with both of your hands now gripping the target's head viciously and repeatedly on the floor. Arise and deliver a final heel-of-the-foot stomp on the marks spine.
Depart the scene.
Unarmed Kill #2
Without warning, shift your weight to the leg furthest from the target and raise the opposite foot about six inches off the floor. Drive a very powerful side thrusting-stamp kick into the target's kneecap, and scrape the kicking foot hard down his shinbone, stopping the kick with a stomp on the target's instep that literally pins him to the spot on which he is standing. He will have begun to lurch forward.
With your rearmost hand form an open palm and twist into the target, using the palm to deliver a chin-jab attack up and under his chin with killing force. Follow-through by gouging the target's eyes with the fingers of your jabbing hand.
After the chin-jab is completed, allow the target to fall free of body contact with you. If the opening is there, kick instantly with your instep to his testicles. When he hits the deck follow-through as described in the previous attack.
Unarmed Kill #3
Employing the half-fist natural-weapon formation, suddenly drive a viciously hard direct thrust into the target's throat, attempting to crush his windpipe with your blow. Your body should twist into this attack so that great force is imparted to the point.
As your blow lands, rapidly step in with your rearmost foot and whip a hard elbow across the target's face. Now, step back slightly shifting your body weight to your rearmost leg. With the leg closest to the target, deliver a sidekick as described in the second attack. Follow through with chin-jab if possible. Be sure to immediately terminate the target once he is brought to the deck by stomping his spine/head/kidney with your heel, and smashing his head repeatedly into the pavement (ground).
From the hands-and-knees position, bring your feet under your body so the weight rests on the balls of your feet. Reach for and grab your targets' ankles from the outside
with both hands. Curl your fingers in toward the hand and place your thumb against the back of their calves to finish the hold. Remember that as soon as you start this your enemy knows your there so this must be done at maximum speed and you must not have a doubt or hesitation. Bend up quickly, bending at the waist and stepping back with the right leg to maintain balance. Pull your target's legs from under him in an upward and backward direction, in a circular, quarter arc manner. Your target will fall downward if done correctly. This could break his neck causing instant death, but just to be sure by kicking him in the back of the neck at the base of the skull.
Naked Choke and Neckbreak (chair)
Crouching sufficiently to bring your chest level with the target's head, quickly whip your left forearm across and under his chin. Jerk your forearm in and up, crushing his windpipe with your forearm blow. At the same time as your execute the above, drive your right forearm forward hard against the back of the target's neck, keeping your right elbow a bit higher than your forearm. This will enable your left hand, after completing its encirclement of the target's throat, to lock up snugly in the crook of your right arm at the elbow.
Once locked on, the attack is perfect, and no skill on the target's part can free him. But the hold can be neutralized if improperly applied. So remember: apply the technique fast and hard.
With your arms locked securely on the target's neck, lean forward hard as you step back, snapping the target's neck over your arm with pressure from your right forearm. Jerk that left forearm back hard against the target's neck. Your step back will compromise the target's balance by offsetting the chair's position with him sitting in it. The targets own bodyweight falling forward under the pressure of your attack will make a quick kill inevitable.
When the above attack is applied shut your eyes tightly, in anticipation of any possible attempt on the target's part to attack your eyes with a rearward clawing movement. Naturally, your eyes are shut only at the moment the hold is locked on.
Naked Choke and Neckbreak (stand)
In the second choke variation, the target is standing in front of you, with his back facing you. All previous comments about the importance of applying speed and total power apply here.
With your left forearm, snap the throat blow across the target's throat area as you apply a powerful close-in punch to the target's right kidney with your own right fist. Be certain that your fist is clenched tightly. Twist your body into the punch.
The position of the target following the forearm blow will make the application of the right-hand forearm behind his neck a simple matter to apply. It should be instantly locked on as you take a deep step backward with your right foot. This places you in a powerfully balanced stance with leverage and strength totally on your side. It prevents the target from obtaining any aid from his stomach muscles in bending forward to resist your hold. It also makes it impossible for him to seize or strike your testicles, except possibly in a most impotent manner.
By exerting full power against the target's neck you should effect a break within three seconds time.
The target is seated before you in a chair that has a back no higher than his neck. It could also be applied against a man sitting on a stool or other item not having a back whatsoever.
Approach target on his left side and suddenly pass your right arm back across the front of his throat. Encircle his neck quickly, bringing your right hand in front of your chest and taking hold of your right hand with your left hand. Now arch up and back hard. Tighten your hold on the target's neck with every ounce of force your are capable of exerting, and step back as you snap his neck over the back of the chair. Or snap it via the force of leverage alone, if the target's seat is not on a chair with a back.
Front Forearm Stranglehold
A hard knee in the testicles, a front kick in the testicles, or any painful attack that brings the target forward while doubled-over must proceed the application of this technique.
Next quickly bring your left forearm up and under the target's throat hard. As you do this, bring your chest against the target's head and grab your own left hand with your right hand, snapping a vicious upward blow to the target's neck. Arch up and back, effecting both a strangulation and neckbreak.
Ambush from above
First you must begin by gaining a position from above the intended target, wait for the enemy to come into range. Try to remember that when attacking from above, people seldom look up, and they shoot under the target when shooting up. After gaining a position above them, fix your eyes on the back of the enemy's skull. Drop on the enemy, striking with your full weight. Use your knees to strike his shoulders and drive him down, breaking your fall his body. Try not to land on his head due to the fact it may cause them to fall improperly. Even if they hear your attack, it will still succeed. Ride the body all the way to the ground (this will crush their spine). Then for a complete kill, strike the base of their skull with the right sword hand, thus breaking his neck.
Edged and Piercing Weapons
Although firearms, are usually the most desirable weapons to employ in making a hit. Knives are excellent weapons as well. Their silence is the best thing about them. The
worst part is the closeness to the target.
THE MENTAL STATE:
Because of the intimacy of the knife and the need for closeness to the target, this is not one of the most popular forms of assassination. Feeling a marks body squirm in agony, feeling warm blood on one’s face, clothing, hands, etc., and viewing the terrified,
desperate eyes of the target as he struggles frantically and hysterically against one’s
attempt to take his life is a very hard thing for anyone to deal with.
CHOOSING A KNIFE:
In choosing a blade, three factors should be considered: durability, keenness, and
balance. The handle should fit comfortably in your hand, it essential that you have a
sharp stabbing point and clean cutting edges.
Attack stance- Approach to within three to four feet behind the enemy and assume this stance. - Bend knees slightly with dagger held in lead hand while the other hand acts to seize and hold the enemy for the knife thrust.
It is likely that the enemy will drop their weapon, or headgear. If this happens, make no attempt to prevent any further noises. Remain still for a few seconds; listen for sound of pursuit. It is most likely these noises will be overlooked. If no sound of pursuit is heard, use the hold of your left arm to drag or carry the sentry backward out of sight.
Kill #1: Ice Pick Skull Stab
The best weapon for this attack is the icepick. It is absolutely essential that, once this attack is started; complete force must be used. In this case, our killer will be right-handed.
The killer is behind the target. Icepick is held securely in the icepick grip in the right hand. Thumb covers the tip of the weapon's grip. This is especially important with an icepick, since the grip on an icepick is usually smooth. If your hand slips during
execution of the rear kill then your job will fail.
The following sequence must be done in a single, quick, powerful movement. With the left hand grip the target over the mouth and nose hard, and, while squeezing tightly, jerk his head backward while your weapon-hand rises high.
Without any hesitation whatsoever, plunge the blade up to the hilt right down into the center of the target head. Maintain a tight grip over mouth and nose to stifle any outcry. Maintain tight hold on both target and weapon, and lower target to the ground. Remove icepick and depart scene.
Kill #2 Icepick Double Hit Kill
Icepick is held in combat grip. Combat grip is just holding it with blade up. Killer
is behind Target. With left hand apply mouth and nose clamping-grip as you jerk targets
head up and back at the same time plunge the icepick up to the hilt into the targets
Withdraw the icepick quickly, maintaining a tight mouth and nose grip, and deliver a second kidney thrust, deep, and up to the hilt. Now this alone is a sure kill but it does not induce instant death. Then holding the target under tight control and maintaining a powerful grip to prevent outcry. Then, still retaining mouth and nose hold, withdraw icepick. Twist target's head to face away from your own right side as you raise the icepick to a position about eight to twelve inches from the right side of the target's neck up to the hilt. Drive the icepick deep through the side of the target's neck to the hilt.
Withdraw, maintaining nose and mouth grip and repeat. Lower target to the ground silently with icepick in his neck. After target is prone, withdraw icepick and depart scene.
Kill #3 Double Knife Hit Kill
Knife is held in combat grip as you ready yourself behind your target.
Left hand applies exact same mouth and nose grip as described in icepick methods. As target is jerked backward, the blade is plunged into the target's kidneys up to the hilt. Do not withdraw knife, rather blade is twisted hard while retaining a very tight grip on the weapon.
Withdraw weapon and retain mouth/nose grip. Completion of this kill is achieved with either one of the following moves:
1) Maintaining mouth/nose grip, raise point of blade to neck, thrust in deeply, and press forward, thus effecting a total severing of the frontal portion of the throat and neck.
2) Reach forward in front of target's trapped head and slash across front of throat,
cutting through target's throat completely.
Kill #4 Covert Knife Kill
Holding the weapon in the right hand, behind the leg so the target permits your close approach, walk up to target and scratch your face with your left hand to get your left hand high without arousing the target's attention or concern.
Immediately seize back of target's neck with your left hand and, coordinating your next motion with this action, jerk target forward toward you. Thrust hard with your weapon straight up and into the throat or underside of the jaw or eye.
Once blade penetrates, twist viciously and withdraw. As target crumples over I recommend that a deep thrust into the kidneys is employed to assure target's death.
Kill #5 Throat Slit
From attack position spring forward and cup the enemy chin with your left hand or free hands' palm, lifting it clear of the throat. Draw the blade across the throat at the level of the cricoid cartilage, beginning at the hilt and stroking to the tip. This attack slits the trachea, preventing any sort of outcry; then cuts deeper, severing the carotid
sheath. The sentry dies within twelve seconds due to lack of oxygen starvation of the brain. Unconsciousness occurs within five seconds.
Kill #6 Kidney Thrust
Spring forward from attack position, whipping the left wrist (open hand) into the enemy's trachea to prevent outcry. The effectiveness of this blow is easily demonstrated by tapping one's Adam's apple with only one-twentieth of the force required. This action disrupts the phrenic nerve, causing the diaphragm to cease pumping air in and out of
the lungs. Simultaneously drive the dagger into the kidney horizontally. Cut to both sides by pushing and pulling the wrist side to side. Death results in thirty seconds and nothing can stop it.
Kill #7 Subclavian Thrust
Spring forward and clamp you're open hand over the enemy's mouth and nose in the method known as one-handed smother. Pull the nose between your thumb and the first joint of the index finger. Grip the jaws between the heel of the hand and the remaining fingertips. This method alone takes well over two minutes to produce unconsciousness. Holding the knife in the ice-pick grip thrust the point well down behind the collarbone and cut side to side. Death will result in three seconds from severing the subclavian artery.
Kill #8 Heart Thrust
Spring forward, sliding your left arm over the enemy's right arm and up to clamp the enemy's mouth from below. Bend him backwards, breaking his balance to the rear. Drive the knife slightly upward under the rib cage, into the chest cavity to penetrate the heart. Cut side to side. Death comes in three seconds unconsciousness is induced instantly.
Kill #9 Jugular Thrust
Spring forward and employ the one-handed smother. Pull the enemy's head to the left and thrust the knife with edges parallel to the ground well into the leading edge of the
sterno-cleio-mastoideus muscle running around the side of the neck. This severs the cartoid sheath, which contains the cartoid artery, the jugular vein, and the vagus nerve.
Cut side to side. Death ensures in twelve seconds, unconsciousness in five.
Knife Kill #10 Ambush from below
When there is barely any cover, consider attacking from below. (This method requires a dagger). First find a position where the enemy will pass and where you
may launch your assault. As the enemy passes, cup his (left) rear foot in the palm of your hand (right), simultaneously poising the dagger in your left. Scooping the enemy's foot forward as he shifts his weight onto his lead foot, lifting it clear from the ground and breaking his balance in the rear. Pull the dagger beside your left ear. Holding it in an ice-pick position. As the enemy falls besides you, landing on his back, pivot to your right knee and drive the dagger into his heart.
Well-made handguns of suitable caliber are undoubtedly the best short-range tools of killing known to man. A handgun is easy to carry, easy to conceal, and easy to use. Also, it is fairly easy to silence a handgun, which can be very effective for certain, assignments.
When executing a hit it is necessary to bear in mind that no substantial case can be made against anyone, following the killing, if no weapon can be found.
That means that once the job is done, the professional completely destroys and eliminates from existence any firearm they have used in a job.
Getting rid of a piece is always top priority after completing a hit. With the exception of a military sniper, no professional would ever keep a weapon that had been used in the commission of a hit.
A handgun is very easy to dispose of. First off, it isn't any problem getting rid of a firearm. It would take 15 minutes to totally dismantle a firearm. Second, each and every part can be broken or melted, and then buried or thrown away in a remote area far away from any other parts. Driving all over the city to dispose of a gun is alot easier than getting life in prison for 1st degree murder.
Basic Handgun Assassination Info
When a handgun is used to kill at close-quarters, the distance from which the killer should fire is not more than 4 or 5 feet from target. Although this may sound surprising it's the only reliable way to use the one-hand gun as an effective assassination piece. For the purpose of killing, the handgun is too inaccurate and too weak an implement of killing to be relied upon over great distances.
The ideal distance for a swift, clean kill is about 6 inches from the target. I am speaking of the distance between gun barrel and point at which the shot is directed.
The technique is simple; the target should be shot in the back of the head, at the base of the brain. It does not take a good marksman from a foot away to hit his mark.
The temple has been suggested as a target in some places. This would be good if firing from a distance with a shoulder weapon. But approaching the target from the side may easily trigger a movement on the target's part and that could cause a complete mission failure.
Handgun #1 Zipper Technique
(For frontal assault)
A method that is effective, though little known, for those rare instances when a frontal approach with a handgun will be required, is the zipper firing technique. This is ideally suited for .22 caliber handgun.
When within a six-foot distance of the target, the handgun is drawn quickly to firing position at target's waist level. Suddenly open fire and zipper all the shots quickly in a rapid rising string directly up the centerline of the targets body.
Handgun #2 Large Bore Kills
In a case where the weapon being used is a larger caliber model, the zipper technique need not be used. A two or three shot burst should instead be used. Target areas for an effective kill are the stomach, liver, heart, neck, eyes, and brain.
Cops, SWAT, and the like use the double-tap. This is why cops are retards. The double tap may be effective on normal people, but not on crack-heads or drug addicts. A double tap is a shot to the chest and a shot to the head. Now the chest
shot is just fine; the one I have a problem with is the headshot. I've heard stories of bullets penetrating the front of the skull, curving around the skull and going out the back. That's why I'd suggest the throat shot.
Handgun #3 "Rippa" Method
The "Rippa" method (yes that's me I don't know if it has a real name or not this is what I thought of but I'm sure it's used by others). It involves 2 shots to the chest (to stop the heart), followed by a shot to the throat (to stop breathing and paralyze the target by striking the spinal chord), then 2 shots to the eye socket (to seize brain activity).
Handgun #4 Rear Assassination
A rear assassination would be to come up from behind, jab the gun into their backbone and fire at once. This will put him on the ground. Then shoot him in the heart by firing at it through his left shoulder blade. This will kill him. Now shoot him in the back of the head and this will reassure the kill.
Sawed-Off Shotgun Kill
The sawed-off double barrel shotgun is rarely considered for assassination work but the 12 gauge side-by-side or over-and-under loaded with buckshot cartridges will put as many pellet’s in a person as a S.M.G can do in full-auto. At the ranges mentioned
with the handguns, the shotgun is truly an effective weapon. Normally the barrels are cut off just in front of the forestock and at the butt remains just behind the pistol grip. The weapon can be strapped to the shoulder or placed in a pocket in the jacket.
The shotgun is held under the coat and against the leg. The coat is unbuttoned. When the subject is in position the barrel of the sawed-off pushes the coat open and the left hand comes up for support. Both barrels are discharged in quick, almost simultaneous
action. They immediately go back under cover, and the assassin leaves the scene.
The sniper must be totally trained and accurate with his weapon. He has 216 square inches of target to hit to be in lethal or seriously injurious areas. This is basically from the top of the head to the groin, on an average male about 36 inches from groin to head and roughly 30 inches from arm to arm. The direction the target is faced towards has no real effect on these figures.
The weapon should be suppressed (silenced) to allow for follow-up shots. Using the bolt action rifles such as the US M-40, Remington M-700, and the Robar SR-90. Offer the advantage of not having the bolt sound when the rifle reloads itself. Then there are automatic rifle such as the SKS, Armalite AR-15, and the HK PSG-1. Which offer the ability to reload itself allowing the assassin the ability for repeated shots at a faster rate.
The choice of weapon, ammo, and sights is left to the sniper-assassin's discretion as the circumstances for job will be varying.
When assassinating VIP's it is often necessary to consider the use of armor-piercing bullets due to their choice of armor-plated cars. They also would come in handy for penetrating the bodyguards of the dignitary or any other unfortunate that might step between you and the subject. I would suggest reading up on materials regarding sniping.
Taken for a ride
You've probably seen this in alot of mafia movies. In the best tradition of the craft, "being taken for a ride" involves the kidnapping of the subject by capturing him, placing him into the car and taking him to a quiet spot to do him in.
It is usually decided to kill the subject while he is in the car, and certain possible problems arise at this point: Imagine, the car's interior as an enclosed space (the windows are rolled up to preclude the subject's crying out or to bar an escape attempt). Firing anything larger than a .22 into him will all but deafen the assassination team.
Ricochets are not uncommon, and a half-spent casing flying around the car, is extremely dangerous. For these reasons, a silent .22 type weapon is used, normally a Ruger MK II, and the larger pistol calibers are avoided. The subject is set between two men in the back seat and is killed by the passenger in the front who shoots him in the chest and throat. The body slumps forward. Than his head is placed on his knees and he then is shot through the back of his head.
Here is one that is very effective for .22 caliber weapons.
2 Pieces of screen, 6 inch and 8 inch wide by several feet long, some tape and an ordinary lead pencil are all the materials required.
1 Start with the strip of screen wire six inches wide and several feet long and begin wrapping one end around the pencil. Continue to wrap the screen wire around the pencil until the roll is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the barrel on your
2 Use two pieces of tape to prevent the screen wire from unwrapping.
3 Now switch to the strip of screen wire about 8 inches wide. (NOTE: it is suggested that the front end of the barrel be taped to prevent it from being scratched by the screen.
4) Keeping one edge flush with the front of your original roll let the other edge extend back two inches around the barrel. Each time the screen wire is wrapped over the front sight cut a small notch in the wire, so that the sight extends through it, and press
that layer down tightly against the layer beneath it. Continue wrapping four or five turns until the inner cylinder of screw wire is firmly held to the gun barrel. Cut off any excess length of the screen wire strip.
Finally, wrap the outer part of the roll with two layers of ordinary electrical tape or cloth adhesive tape (duct tape), letting the tape extend back an additional two inches on the bare gun barrel to hold the silencer in place.5 Remove the pencil before firing.
Soft Drink Silencer
The following design is one of the simplest to manufacture, least expensive and yet, one of the most effective of all disposable silencers.
All that is required for construction is an empty 1 or 2 liter plastic soft drink bottle, a 1 or 1 1/2-inch hose clamp and some tape.
The bottle chosen for this purpose must have a reinforcing ring on the bottom portion that this is necessary to prevent the bottle from splitting upon discharge. There are several brands of soft drink that have this reinforcing ring, so get one that you will enjoy drinking.
This unit is only effective for a few shots, as the noise level will increase with each successive shot, due to the enlarging exit hole at the bottom of the bottle.
Begin construction by measuring the inside diameter of the bottleneck with the diameter of the barrel. If the diameter of the barrel is smaller, bring it up to the required size by using electrical tape. (NOTE: With some weapons you will need to make a slot on
the bottle neck for the front sight. Make it a tight fit!).
Next slip the 1 or 1 1/2 inch hose clamp over the bottle neck and install bottle to weapon 1 2 3. Once the bottle is in place, position the hose clamp over the tape and tighten clamp. (Make sure there is a good seal between the tape and the inside
of the bottle neck.) Check the front sight slot for any openings, and use tape if neccessary, to seal any leaks.
To make the silencer even more effective, stuff some old rags into the bottle, it will cut the sound level by another 50%.
If desired, use some paint to match the "silencer" to your weapons finish.
Pipe Silencer (source: Hitman)
The directions that follow show in explicit detail how to construct a silencer for a Ruger 10/22 rifle. The same directions can be followed successfully to construct a silencer for any weapon, with only the size of the drill rod used for alignment changed to fit inside the dimension of the barrel.
The following items should be assembled before you begin:
Drill rod, 7/32 inch (order from a machine shop if not obtained locally)
One foot of 1/4 inch brake line from auto parts
One quart of fiberglass resin with hardener
One foot of 1-1/2 inch (inside diameter) PVC piping and two end caps
One yard thin fiberglass mat
One roll of masking tape
One 1/8 inch drill bit
One 3/16 inch drill bit
Handful of rubber bands
Three or four single inch razor blades
One sheet 80 grit sandpaper
Six small wood screws
One box steel wool
Cut a 10-inch section from the brake line. Drill a set of 1/8 inch holes down the
length of the tube going in one side and out the other. The holes go all the way
through. Notice in the photograph that the holes begin 1-1/2 inches from the end of the
tube that fill on the gun.
Next, take a 3/16-inch drill bit and enlarge the holes.
Using masking tape and keeping the tape as free of wrinkles as possible mask off about six inches of the gun barrel and the end of the barrel. Use only masking tape. Duct
tape is too thick and would make for an improper fit.
Then place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake tube aligned. This perfect alignment is extremely important.
If the drill rod you purchase is a little too large, as sometimes happens, put it in a
drill and using a file and sandpaper (80 grit) turn down the first six inches until
it will fit inside the gun barrel. I operate the drill from the floor with my foot,
letting the rod spin between my knees as I reduce the size. Check regularly until you
achieve a perfect fit. If you grind the rod too small, cut it off and start over. Fit
must be tight with no play.
Wrap glass mat around the gun and tube three times. Secure it with string or rubber bands every half-inch to keep it tight and in place. The glass should be wrapped about two inches behind the sight and up to the first hold on the tube.
Now mix the resin. About a shot glassful will do. Mix it two or three times hotter
than the package directions.
Brace the gun in an upright position and dab the resin into the glass cloth with a
stubby brush. Keep dabbling until the cloth is no longer white but has become transparent
from absorption of the resin.
As soon as the glass is tacky to touch without sticking (times differs according to
weather conditions and humidity), it is time to remove the piece from the barrel. Move
First, take a razor blade and cut a notch behind the sight so the piece can be removed. Then push on the glass to slide it off. Do not pull on the tube.
After removing the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening. You must work quickly. If you let the glass harden too much on the gun, you will have to
cut it off and begin again.
Use a grinder and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the hardening rough surface.
Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the
front of the sight makes contact. Cut it down until the barrel fits easily and snugly.
Stand the glassed inner tube upright in a vise.
Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the
junction of the steel inner tube and glass coupling added strength.
Clean the eyedropper with acetone.
Cut the PVC tube to desired length. This one is eight inches. Drill a large hole in the center of one cap, making it large enough to fit on the glass end to the point where the sight makes contact.
Then drill small holes all around the cap at the bottom, as shown, with a 3/16 bit.
Wrap masking tape around the cap to cover the holes.
Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the tube.
Cut a lot of 1/2-inch square pieces of fiberglass matting and fill the cap with it up
past the level of the small holes.
Mix resin and pour it over the cut glass to a point about 1/4 inch above the holes and allow it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don't worry about any resin that leaks out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong
enough to take the blast when you fire the gun.
When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and add glass around the backside of the cap for added strength as shown. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits.
Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the inner tube as you look in the open end of the PVC.
Now drill a 1/8-inch hole in three places around the tube about 1/4 inch from the lip of
Take the inner tube out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16 inch.
Replace the inner tube and tighten it down with three small wood screws.
Trim the inside tube down until it extends about 1/2 inch beyond the outside PVC tube.
Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use as a punch. Stand the tube up with
the solid cap down. Then drop the drill rod down the inner tube to get a true center
Find a drill bit a little larger than the outside diameter of the inner tube. Remove the cap and drill the hole.
Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC and drill three 1/8-inch holes around the cap as before for wood screw.
Grind off any inner tube that sticks out. Make it flush with the face of the cap.
Unfold the sections of steel wool and roll between palms to make strands as shown.
Feed the strands into the silencer tube in a circular motion, packing the wool tight with
a stick. Do this until the tube is completely full. Replace the end cap with the three screws.
Paint the finished silencer black and attach it to your weapons. You may want to ensure proper alignment by wrapping tape or placing a hose clamp around the extension behind the sight.
Defenestration and Hit and Run
Death from falling.
The distance of the fall is not of much concern because the mark can be killed by "falling" off the roof of a single story dwelling or pushed down stairs. If the subject
is not killed, they're pushed or dropped again until they are. Once again, a three-man team must be used to handle the subject. He must be knocked-out, maced, or otherwise under your control.
Marks’ living in high rises and apartments are the obvious choices for defenestration. Tall office buildings are perfect for the defenestration of executive marks. The drop should be chosen with a view to maximize the force of impact. Fences and concrete sidewalks are excellent. Car roofs are known to break falls, so try not to dump the subject on one.
Hit and Run
(Source - unknown)
If auto killing is to be done, it is quite often a team effort requiring timing, dry runs and planning of escape routes. This makes it a very complex method full of unknown variables that can make the whole hit go awry at any time.
Other difficulties in assassinating by automobile are centered around time, speed and choice of vehicle. Location is not as important as might be imagined because "accidents can happen anywhere." Among the factors to be considered are those concerning the subject - as to whether he be a pedestrian, driver or occupant of a vehicle.
Let's take the choice of attack vehicle first. The British are considered to be the past masters of the art of deliberately killing a subject by automobile. They invariably choose a flatbed truck. The truck has several advantages. Being a truck it places the driver in an elevated position which is safer in a ram attack and allows the driver and observer considerable overview. The vertical rise of the front of the truck is important
because in running a subject down, he quite often will be tossed up into the air and dumped through the windshield. The brunt-edge and height of the truck, and also the SUV, serves to knock him to the ground and under the wheels of the vehicle. He must be run over with the tires crushing his head and/or rib cage even if it is necessary to reverse the vehicle and do it again.
In the ram attack of a subject's car the leading edge of your vehicle must strike the subject's vehicle at oblique angles to the doors. Thus, avoiding having to smash through his engine block in a head-on crash or through the bumpers and truck in a rear-ender. A stereotypical accident would be to "fail to negotiate a turn" as the subject vehicle approaches an intersection and to turn wide into his lane - and him. Another would be to
highball out of a driveway and strike him squarely on his door panels as he passes.
Garrote and .22 zip gun
When ambushing from behind you can use several methods to neutralize the subject. The method I will talk about is strangulation. The weapon used will be a garrote wire (piano cord or metal wire will do). It has a length of about two feet long. Wrap the ends of the wire around your fists and grip the central position with the thumbs. Some say cross the garrote, this only complicates the attack and makes it less likely to succeed. Drop the garrote over the enemy's head and pull back with both hands, exerting enough pressure to force the enemy backwards. They will try to seize the garrote to relieve the pressure. This method attacks the trachea, preventing outcry, as well as shutting off the blood flow to the brain. Continue exerting pressure
with the arms, crossing your fists behind the enemy's neck. Drive the knee upward into the small of their back, breaking the spine. To finish him off twist to the right, dropping him face down, then sit on top of their back with your knee until they cease to struggle.
.22 zip gun (pen gun)
WARNING: This was not written nor tested by the author, reader assumes all responsibilities for what happens when built and used.
You will need:
(1) Ballpoint pen - approximately 5.3 Inches long (metal).
(2) Strong spring - approximately 1.59 Inches long (able to fit inside
2nd half and a little bit of the first).
(3) Strong metal bar - approximately 2.5 Inches long (able to fit
(4) Strong small metal bar (a little bigger then the circumference of
the spring and able to slide easily through the 2nd half of the pen).
A few .22 Caliber bullets.
(5) Soldering iron.
-please note: diagrams not to scale.
First untwist the ball point pen and take out all the insides (you may
break them to get them out because they are not needed and should be
discarded (see diag. A).
-The pen (diag. A)-
-< + :*]
1St half 2nd half
< denotes pen tip (where the ink comes out).
+ Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the metal bar (larger one) and attach it to the push button (see
-Firing pin (diag.B)-
metal bar push button
you can attach it by either shoving the metal bar into the bottom
or by soldering it in place (please note: I recommend soldering the metal
bar in place). Important - the metal bar must be attached in the exact
middle of the push button (the metal bar will act as a striking pin and
must be in the exact center so it will strike the middle of the bullet
causing the bullet to go off).
With the metal bar now firmly attached to the push button, put the
push button inside the pen like it should be (see diag. C).
-Firing pin placement (diag. C)
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
Now take the spring and slide it over the metal bar (see diag. D).
-Placement of spring (diag. D)
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
Now with the spring around the metal bar and the push button where it
Should be, attach (by soldering or twisting, soldering preferred) the
small metal bar to the metal bar (see diag. E).
-Attachment of small metal bar
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
Note: it might also be helpful to solder the small metal bar to the
Spring along with soldering it to the metal bar.
-Test of firing mechanism-
pull back push button as far as it will go while holding onto the second
half of the pen. Now let go and the metal bar (longer one) should snap
forward and then return to its approximate starting position.
placement of bullet:
a .22 Caliber bullet should now be placed in the 1st half of the "pen"
approximately 1-1/2 millimeters in front of where the metal bar would
be if the "pen" was put back together. Be sure to tape (or whatever you think
will work) the bullet inside the casing or else the bullet, if moved,
might go off accidentally (see diag. F).
-Bullet placement (diag. F)-
< <* -B^B:BXXXXXXXXXXXB*]
1St half 2nd half
-B- denotes metal bar.
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
*] denotes push button.
X denotes spring around metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar attached to metal bar.
How to operate:
Pull back on push button as far as it will go, then let go - the bullet
has just been fired (easy, right?).
If you wish to shoot another bullet, untwist the "pen", take out the
shell and reload (see placement of bullet).
the bullet will tumble when shot instead of the spiraling because the
inside of the 1st half (the barrel) has no lands or grooves. Tumbling
is good because the bullet will rip through a target, but it does cause the
bullet to be off target approximately 3-4 inches. Having no lands or grooves
makes the bullet hard to be traced back to its source (no striations).
If you wish to make lands and grooves, you can by taking a screw and
twisting it inside the 1st half of the "pen" (adds striations to bullet).
I would also advise you to cut off the tip of the "pen". If the tip is
left on, the bullet will still shoot, but it will blow through the tip and send
pieces of the pen flying in different directions (also causing the bullet to
be off target.)
-Optional: diagram-removal of tip-
< / :
< denotes tip (where ink used to come out).
: Denotes middle (separation point of pen).
/ Denotes where tip should be removed (just enough to let the
bullet shoot out).
How it should look when it is complete
-complete diagram (with tip removed)-
/ Denotes where the pen "caves in" after tip is removed.
<*+= Denotes .22 Bullet taped to bottom.
-B- denotes metal bar.
^ denotes small metal bar.
: Denotes middle (the separating point of the pen).
X denotes spring around metal bar.
*] denotes push button.
-Advantages & disadvantages-
(1) one shot capacity-only one bullet can be shot at a time (you must
reload the gun everytime you want to shoot).
(2) Not as accurate as a regular .22 Caliber gun (but the gun was not
intended for target shooting).
(3) Looking like a pen may cause dangerous situations.
(1) easy to build.
(2) Easy to use.
(3&4) Easy to conceal and discard.
(5) Low cost (almost nothing).
Explosives have been used for many years as a form of assassination, and terrorism. Probably the most known group who uses explosives are the Mafia. Explosives can be used in many ways: under a car, in a light bulb, a light switch, etc.... There are many ways apply explosives the sky's the limit. The explosive is the actual cause of death, it's the shrapnel which causes injuries that cause death. So keep that in mind when using explosives for assassination. In the following chapter I will supply you with different recipes for explosives use them how you will.
(original source - TAFE blasting course)
(secondary source - Makeshift Arsenal)
ANFO is the most commonly used commercial and agricultural explosive as it is cheap and does a good job, this is the explosive farmers use to blow stumps out of the ground and mines also use it on mass. ANFO is the perfect earthmover with great heaving power brought about by a lot of effective energy and relatively low detonation velocity. ANFO (ammonium nitrate fuel oil) can be manufactured by mixing 17 parts prilled AN with 1 part diesel and left one hour to let it soak in, it is than ready to use. ANFO reaches its maximum effective energy at approx. 5.5% diesel remainder prilled AN. It is sensitive to detonation from 2% to 12% at which point the prills are saturated and will not hold anymore oil. The Det velocity is dependent on the density of the loading and the confinement of the charge but typically detonates within the range of 3000 to 4500 m/sec. The denser and more confined the higher the DV, it will have a density of approx. 0.8g/cc in the prilled form. Properly mixed anfo will detonate to 50 grams of high explosive.
(secondary source - Makeshift Arsenal)
ANNM (ammonium nitrate nitromethane) is a very powerful and sensitive binary explosive that holds more power and is more brisant than any commonly available commercial explosive (with the exception of PETN in detonators and det. cord).
To make ANNM 1 part pure nitromethane is added to 5 parts powdered AN and left 1 hr to soak in, in sealed container. This explosive is very sensitive and I've never failed to detonate it using either of the peroxide explosives, to guarantee initiation a matchbox full of the explosive putty should be used however you could probably get by with half this amount.
(original source - kitchen improvised plastic explosives)
(secondary source - Makeshift Arsenal)
This is a very useful explosive containing the same qualities as strait ANNM but in a plastic moldable form. To make first add 1 part smokeless powder to 2 parts nitromethane in a sealed glass container, the nitromethane being a powerful solvent will break down the nitrocellulose and you will be left with a black sticky substance that will act like jelly. Now finely powder AN and add 1 part of this "jelly" to 3 parts AN and knead together with gloved hands
(secondary source - Makeshift Arsenal)
This explosive putty is made by the combination of two other explosives, those being acetone peroxide and double base smokeless powder.
First the smokeless powder is turned into a paste by combining 2 parts powder to 3 parts acetone in a sealed glass jar, this is left for 3 days, you should now be left with a black paste with a viscosity slightly thicker than honey. Pour the required amount of A.P into a bowl than slowly add the paste until the mixture has a moldable density than remove. This is the explosive and to use just mould into a shape or around whatever, insert fuse and let dry (acetone will readily evaporate). when it is rock hard simply light fuse and run.
(Source - Iceman)
(This bomb contains shrapnel)
Materials Parts by Volume
Powdered Potassium chlorate 40
Powdered Sulfur 15
Granulated Sugar 20
Iron Filings 10
Wax(Bee's or candle) 15
Measuring cup or can
1. Fill the bottom of the double boiler with water and bring to a boil.
2. Place the top half on top of the bottom half and add the wax, sulfur, sugar, and filings in the proper amounts.
3. Stir well and blend all the materials evenly.
4. Remove the upper half of the double boiler and place away from heat source.
5. CAREFULLY add the required amount of potassium chlorate and stir again to obtain a homogenous mixture.
6. Pour the mixture into the brick mold and let it cool and harden.
(Source - Hell's Angel)
1. A few light bulbs
2. Torch (one that will melt glass,
radio shack single cylinder model.)
4. Liquid soap
5. Epoxy glue
1. Make a hole in the light bulb about half an inch below the metal part. (don't make it on the bottom, because if the seal you will make should break, the person/room you wanted to eliminate will notice the hole (the gasoline will drip on the floor.)
2. Now, carefully fill the light bulb about half full with gas, then the rest with soap (hold at an angle if you have to.) Now, use the epoxy glue and glue the hole.
3. Thirdly, take the epoxy glue and glue over the hole.
4. Finally, find a light socket and screw the bulb in. Make sure the light is off. If it is on, then, I will send flowers. Don't test it, unless you are committing suicide.
The next few files aren't really for killing but more for sabotage which might be necessary when a contract requests it.
I'm sure everyone has heard of this one. The famous/infamous Molitov Cocktail. First a bottle is filled about 2/3 full with gas, a rag is than stuffed into the neck forming an tight fit, the rag is soaked in fuel. Than you chuck it at the intended target. Don't be a jackass and place it on the ground expecting it to blow up, cause it won't.
(source - Makeshift Arsenal)
Homemade napalm is most easily done by dissolving Styrofoam (white bead things in beanbags / protective packaging) in gasoline until you get a sticky white mess. This method does work and you will end with a substance that will stick to anything and burn for a long period of time. This is best used with a simple explosive to spread the burning mess around the surrounding area. For this purpose a simple pipe bomb can be used, however for a greater spread, the explosive putty in the Explosive section can be loaded into a container along with blackpowder along with smokeless powder stars. Stars are added to the bomb to lengthen the flame of the explosion and more reliably ignite the napalm. Simply scoop the "napalm" into an easily burst container than load the explosive into the center. These explosives also give a very nice looking mushroom flame upon detonation.
blue or white tip match heads
Nail polish remover
1 3 1/2 Floppy disk
First take the disk out of its jacket and do the following:
Take a small dish and pour acetone (nail polish remover) into it. Now get a lot of matcheads and put them in it. Now pulverize it until you have a somewhat gooey consistency. This is what you should brush on the disk in a thin layer. When the disk is booted it will heat up and set their comp on fire, and destroy his files.
Tennis Ball Bomb
One tennis ball
Alot of strike anywhere matches
First cut a hole in the top of the tennis ball, about 1 1/2 inches long. After that place the broken match heads into the tennis ball. Then if you want I suggest it, cut off the striking pads, fold them in half and put in the tennis ball with matches. Put tape over the hole to keep the matches from falling out. WARNING! Do not toss the ball in your hand or grasp the ball hardly, the matches are set off by friction.
I'm not especially fond of poisons but to be a expert you must study all aspects of your field. So here you are. With some common sense on your part you should be able to figure out how they are applied. If you do indeed take the information provided in this article seriously enough to do it, please forget where you read it.
Nicotine-- One of the most deadly poisons on Earth, one reason I don't smoke. One way of extracting nicotine, take several cigarette butts and soak them in plain water for 3-4 hours. Another source is snuff, dump a can full of snuff into a glass and fill it with enough water to cover the snuff. Wait a day. Strain out the liquid throw away the snuff and wah la you have a poison.
Antifreeze-- Basic antifreeze is a deadly poison, and when taken in amounts of 3 oz. or more, will result in death. 6 oz. is suggested for a hit. The symptoms of poisoning resembles drunkenness. It has a sweetish flavor, so it can be used in the target's tea or certain salad dressings.
Diffenbachia (dumbcane)-- Take 2-4 of the leaves and boil them in water (don't inhale the fumes) When the water becomes a greenish color, take the leaves and throw them away. Now take the liquid and add it to the victims drink, food etc. The victims’ voice goes kaput.
Oleander--. Take a twig of this bush and grind it into a fine powder. Place the powder in the salt shaker, or substitute it for any other type of seasoning...Causes death within 3-4 hours...sometimes quicker
Poison Oak/Ivy--. Take the leaves and do the above process. Or boil the leaves and when the water turns brownish/green pour it out into a vial...Add a few drops to the victims’ beverage.. It tends to destroy the victims’ vocal cords...
Systemic roses--. Take a rose bush and soak the ground around it with a very poisonous fertilizer. In the days following the rose leaves, stems, etc will become highly deadly. When it scratches the victim. He/she dies.. Rhubarb. =-=-=-=- As many people know the stalks can be eaten but the leaves will kill simply grind them up or cut them up and put them in food.
Potassium Cyanide--. This is chemical is contained in appleseeds. To get it you must grind up about 12 oz of apple seeds ..The effect is close to radiation poisoning...It kills within 6 hours. I've also heard that this is in peach pits.
Others (Unknown!)-- Take 3 no-fly pest strips and place them in a jar of turpentine overnight. In the morning scoop out the white/brown gel at the bottom.
Silence is perhaps the assassin's greatest friend. Silence is necessary in every aspect of the assassins’ job. Within the next chapter I will discuss several different silent movement techniques.
This method allows you to move quietly and quickly down hallways, passages, etc. If you look the tracks appear to go in two different directions at once. To use this method you must first assume the following stance: stand with back to the wall, crouch slightly, bow legs with knees pointing outward, turn head in direction you wish to go and lower the shoulder facing that direction. It looks like a fencing posture, with lead toe pointing at a 90-degree angle to the body and the rear foot facing 135-degrees away from it. Now cross-step in the back with the rear leg, placing the toes past the lead foot, facing the original direction. The toes of each foot now face those of the other. This extreme toe-in position is necessary to allow clearance for the lead leg, which is drawn through as weight is shifted onto the rear leg to again assume the original position. When passing a window using this method, you should listen for sounds from inside. If the occupants be silent or sleeping (snoring), or doing something which requires attention (cards or something), they're less likely to detect your presence. I suggest you should listen before and after you cross the window.
This next method strengthens the toes and helps walk long distances on your tiptoes. First lower the body for better balance. Extend the arms, palms down, at waist level. Step forward with you left foot first, balancing on the right leg. Place the toes lightly on the surface, and shift the body forward. As you move the left foot, draw the toes back slightly press the heel down lightly. Glide forward in the same manner. This whole movement will look like the cartoons when they're sneaking around,
you might know what I mean.
This movement is used to observe the enemy and penetrate enemy areas when cover is scarce and speed is not essential. First keep the body flat as possible. The hands are made palms down, near the face, with elbows close to the body, toes outward,
and legs spread. Keep the head lifted. To move forward, extend the arms and toes of the left foot. Keep the weight on the forearms and left leg from your knee to your ankle. Pull with the arms and toes of the left foot. Thus, the body is lifted above the ground to prevent any scraping or any dragging. Change the pushing leg every now and then to avoid fatigue. After every movement stop, look, and listen.
Keep the body free from the ground by placing the weight on the forearms and the lower legs. The knees are maintained low behind the ass, to reduce silhouette. Moves forward by alternately advancing the right knee/left elbow then right knee/left elbow… get it? This method will make you vulnerable to attack, so I suggest you use this only in ingress.
This is the quickest way to move from one position of concealment to another. It also exposes you so I would suggest you only use this when there is good coverage. From the prone position, raise head and pick where you'll be moving. Lower your head, draw the arms into the body, keep the elbows in, and pull the right leg forward. In one movement, raise the body straightening the arms. Spring to the feet, stepping off with
the left foot first. Run to the new position using the shortest route possible. Carry your body on the balls of your feet, in a crouch, with shoulders rounded, arms hanging loosely at knee level. Press the first knuckle of each index finger with the ball of the thumb. As you near your position, plant feet slightly apart, drop to your knees as quietly as possible, fall froward and break the impact with the heels of your hands. Shift your weight to either side and roll over into the position behind cover. Lie as flat as possible.
Approach the wall or barrier, press against it, resting your weight forward. Place the near hand by the knee and the backhand close to the face. Slowly lean the head forward and peek around the corner. After determining that the movement can
be made safely, draw the head back out of sight. Step quickly around the corner with the lead foot, placing the heel in the final position. The right leg doesn't move (you'll pretty much be in a horse stance facing the edge of the corner). The back glides around the corner without touching it as the weight is shifted onto the left leg. When the hips have cleared the wall, the right leg is drawn around to close the stance. Press your back against the wall and check to see if you have been seen.
Protecting your "ass"ets
Once the job is over protecting your ass is the most important thing. In the following chapter. I'm getting kinda tired right now so bear with me.
HAZARDS OF THE HIT
Identification of the Hitman should be a matter of accident. It will happen when you unwittingly stroll into the view of a CCTV camera, or when an uninvited policeman joins you when you least expect.
Identification is calculable risk - and like any other risk it can be reduce or eliminated by proper planning.
When considering the feasibility of your hit, unless you wish to be a martyr and get caught, you should always consider the risk of identification. This risk is involves mainly...
· The risk of being seen by somebody on adjacent premises (see 'eyewitnesses');
· The risk of being seen/caught by someone on site;
· The risk of being recorded on a security camera;
· The risk of being caught by police/security patrols.
By carrying out proper reconnaissance, and noting the position of security systems, nearby premises and the hours of occupation on the site you should be able to minimize the risk. In practice it is never possible to eliminate the risk because of the unexpected - mainly the fact that your work will attract the attention of the police or security personnel.
When carrying out the hit you should consider means of avoiding visual detection. Camouflage is a good way to avoid distant detection, but this must be selected carefully. Think about the situation you are working under...
· Even in the dead of night, especially in/near urban areas, it is rarely truly black, so black clothing is not appropriate. Dark shades of blue and gray are better - even in dim light black will always stand out against a light colored background;
· In daytime it may be better to dress to mislead, i.e., dress as if you belong to avoid being spotted as something 'abnormal' - for example dressing up as an average Joe
i.e. a plumber (overalls)
· If working in countryside areas, or building sites on the edge of the countryside, khaki and camouflage jackets give the best protection. If working in the dusk/dark you should also consider wearing a balaclava, or blacking out your face - you would be surprised how well white faces stand out in light!
· Sometimes the backdrop is important. If you are working under floodlights against a pale or white background, by wearing black you will stand out. It may be necessary to take some sort of outfit made of different colored material i.e. Ghille Suit to avoid detection. This may seem extreme, but many CCTV cameras have a specific focus field - if you remain some distance away, and present little color contrast to the background (especially with black and white cameras) you may be able to sneak past without the camera getting any clear image of you.
An alternative, if identification is likely, is to disguise. As noted above, by dressing as if you 'belong' to the scenario - e.g. by dressing as a workman carrying out 'routine maintenance.' You can also change your appearance using wigs, by padding your coat to make you look bigger, or by masking your features using a hat or hood.
Modern electrical systems and banking systems make life very easy. You can travel anywhere in the world using your credit card, pay for products by check, or use your cards/personal documents (e.g., passport/driving license) as a means of identification to join clubs. In practice, this leaves a trail of 'paper' - little pieces of information that show you have been there.
Credit card transactions are logged on computer - as are some check payments. By cross-referencing purchases of certain equipment with card numbers, certain individuals who can be traced. Then, taking these numbers, cross-references can be made to your other purchases.
Likewise, whenever you take money from a bank machine, the time, date and location are stored on a the bank's computer. If you are suspected of a crime, the police may apply to obtain this information to prove your whereabouts.
When purchasing equipment you should always use cash - used bank notes if possible. Using checks or credit cards generates paper trails. Also, never use a check or credit/debit card when you are 'in transit' to or from the hit - it will generate a paper trail locating you to a time and place, and will conflict with any alibi you invent.
Sometime, somewhere, you are going to be seen. With careful planning this risk can be minimized on the site of the hit. The problem is often getting to or from the site without being 'noticed'. Being seen is one thing - getting 'noticed' as something out of the ordinary is the problem.
If possible, access the site using a route not directly associated with the site. Given the choice of a country lane leading to the site, or a five-mile cross-country hike, I would choose the five-mile hike. On the other hand there is safety in numbers - if you can work your way in and out of a crowd the weight of numbers prevents people or CCTV cameras from clearly identifying one individual.
Another problem is disguising your transport. Lone cars in country lay-bys get noticed. Police cars passing unoccupied vehicles will quite often log the registration to check if the car is stolen - this registration will then stay in the policeman's notebook for future reference.
As a general rule you must always plan to avoid looking out of place, strange, or unexpected. As far as is possible, try to look normal. If you cannot look normal, disguise yourself by hiding your features, especially hair, beards, color of eyes, scars or birthmarks, and most certainly your voice or accent.
Fingerprints, in any classic crime film, are the primary means of identifying the suspect without doubt. It is because of the accuracy of fingerprint identification, and the use of modern computing techniques to identify a single print from thousands of records, that you must always guard against touching any object without some form of hand covering.
All your tools must be cleaned before the hit to remove any accidental fingerprints that might be on them from their last use. Then, even when you put them back in your stash, you must never handle them without gloves.
When on the site, for whatever reason, never take your gloves off. For obvious reasons this means that your gloves must be comfortable so that you can wear them for a long period of time.
I tend to put my gloves on when entering the site, and take them off when leaving. Gloves in public, unless it is very cold weather, look suspicious.
Finally, before going to the hit, remove all identifying objects such as coins, wallets, keys, jewelry, etc., from your body, and stash them. In fact, unless you will need money on the journey, it is not a good idea to take any object on the hit with you. Not only do such objects carry fingerprints, but if you drop them they will also identify you.
Once fingerprints were the only problem. Even blood would only identify a blood group - which unless it was rare could only indicate one of a few hundred suspects when correlated with other evidence.
Today, 'genetic fingerprinting' can identify you as an individual with a probability of misidentification of about one in one million. Also, rather than just blood, it is possible to take genetic fingerprints from all bodily tissues such as skin and hair. For this reason you must be extra careful when working.
If you scratch yourself you should carry bandages to stop the blood flow immediately. You should also try and clean the implement, which injured you because it will have traces of blood or skin on it. If you seriously cut yourself you should stop the bleeding as best as possible and leave the site immediately. The one good way to dispose of DNA evidence is ammonia. I suggest, just in case a little ampule of ammonia. If you have long hair - that is anything more than a skinhead does - you should also wear a hat or balaclava to stop it falling out, or getting caught on fences or machinery.
Your clothing, even in everyday wear, will pick up minute quantities of skin and hair, which will identify you if it is found. As advised earlier, it is a good idea to keep your tool stash and your other equipment/clothing stash separate. At least then if your clothing is found, there will be no incriminating tools with it to tie you to any one particular site.
As well as indirectly generating paper trails by paying for things, keeping receipts or invoices will also provide evidence against you. When you buy things dispose of the receipt immediately. Also, never dispose of receipts/invoices in your rubbish at home - a quick sort through by someone will reveal them.
If you regularly use public documents to get information on the job site you were the hit will take place, such as planning permissions, avoid giving your name to the staff at the office concerned. If possible, get someone unrelated to the hit to get the information.
If you must get something and there is no alternative, never use a false or assumed identity. At some point you can be assured that you will be found out. You will just have to use your own name, and then try and invent a plausible excuse for you being there and buying or looking at the information concerned.
Finally, never phone the premises you want to hit from home - the call may be logged by the organizations tapping your phone, and the call will be logged on your billing account.
Tip-offs and cold-calls
Agent provocateurs have been used for centuries as a way of setting up groups or individuals for capture. Suspect anyone whom you know little about, even if they seem to be a Goodfella.
Another problem is people calling you up out of the blue and asking you questions over the phone. Never tell them anything that is not already common public knowledge. Better still, if you can reasonably get away with it, plead ignorance. If someone cold-calls, always try and get a name, address and phone number from them. I usually say that, "I don't know, but I know a man who does - what's your address?". Also, when they hang up, immediately dial *69 to see if their number is left in the system. Later you can phone back - perhaps at lunchtime when someone else may answer the phone - and see if they are who they said they were.
Never reveal any information about your activities to anyone who questions you directly. However, at some point, you will want to talk to someone about it - it's human nature. If you work with others this presents little problem. If you work alone, you must find someone to confide in. It is important that you get all your thoughts, fears and excitations about murder off your chest (not really suggested). If someone cold-calls you then any residual fear or boast may accidentally fall out.
Hit planning and modus operandi
The way you plan a hit and carry it out - your 'modus operandi' - will give you away. For this reason it is important to vary your working methods. It won't stop you getting caught, but it might prevent them from pinning so many cases on you.
Always try and vary the subject of you target. Never use the same techniques from one hit to the next.
By varying your ways of working on the subject of the hit, and your means of access and exit, you confuse the opposition. By confusing them you will evade detection and capture for longer, and more importantly, they may not be able to pin every job you've ever done on you.
I've made some fake I.D.'s before, yeah they were good for buying liquor but that's about it. If you really want quality I.D.'s steal 'em. One of the best places to acquire I.D. is at the gym. This way you don't go through the hassle of having to get a SS# (social security #). One is provided for you. Only problem is you're stealing another guys SS# that could hurt his feelings and his bank account, boo hoo it happens all the time. With all the info you have from the other guy you can get loans, open bank accounts, buy guns, whatever the hell you want. To apply for a loan or an account, whatever you'll need picture I.D. For that if you know a good I.D. forger go for it. I personally use Promaster I.D. cards. They are a company who works out of England. Very good work.
Erasing the yourself
The first order of business to kill the former self, which can be largely accomplished by closing bank accounts (without money you're nobody). After that, an unscrupulous individual can either let his old ID slowly fade away or hasten its demise by purchasing a death package. Available for between $500 and $1000 in Nigeria, the Philippines, and Mexico, the package includes a death certificate, obituary and funeral announcement. Government agencies will erase all Social Security and IRS records upon notification of death. To obtain a death package, it helps to have a few local guys on your side-- a lawyer or cop known for his love of money should do the trick.
GO TO THE GRAVEYRAD:
After "dying" it's time to get a new identity. The newly deceased needs to pursue headstones to find someone who died before he was 16 (no drivers liscense no social). Armed with deceased's name and DOB, he then applies for a copy of the dead guys'
birth certificate with the state's Dept. of Vital Statistics-- most apathetic government employees will give it out without verifying I.D. With a birth certificate, getting a social security card and drivers license and passport is a cinch.
BUY A FAKE PASSPORT:
FINOR (www.finor.com) will sell anyone a camouflage passport and backup documents for $500. The passport will bear the name of a country that sounds familiar but doesn't exist anymore. Vendors use extinct nations so they can make fakes without hurting
another nations feelings. With it you can secure other I.D., but don't try to cross boarders.
HANDLE NEW ID WITH CARE:
The most abused piece of personal info is social security number. You should only give in situations that have tax consequences, like getting a job or buying a house. Don't give it when applying for a driver's license, credit cards, or fishing license. They only use it to authenticate who you are, the danger? Some employee checks your I.D. and boom you aren't really you... busted.
GET THE HELL OUTTA THE COUNTRY:
Just so you know it's harder to find a foreign citizen than a U.S. citizen, most Third World countries will offer citizenship to anyone with $50,000 to pour into their crappy economies. If you want to be a new citizen you should contact a lawyer of one
of these nations, pay the $500 for citizenship papers and put $50,000 in the bank. Infused with the currency, your adoptive country will gladly grant citizenship. If you want my suggestion; New Zealand, it has the world's highest standard of living, supports fiscal freedom and privacy.
Destroying the Evidence
One of the best ways of getting rid of paper work, is of course fire. In Vietnam the safe at a base, which contained all the battle plans, had a thermite grenade in it in case the enemy overran the base. I would suggest the same. Thermite, Napalm, Gasoline, anything that burns for a good amount of time.
Trash is another good place to get rid of the evidence. Don't be an idiot though, like this one guy who through away his latex gloves, the murder weapon, and the clothes he wore outside the company where he worked. If you are going to throw away evidence, I would suggest a big company such as wal-marts trash bins, than another spot. Don't throw away everything at one time throw pieces away each time. If you are going to throw away a gun take it apart. If you are going to throw it off a bridge take the time to dismantle it and throw it off at different intervals with any luck the pieces will be swept away or swallowed in the mud.
Burying it is also a good idea, but always bury it a good ways off the road, path, whatever. You don't want some curious bastard wondering why there is fresh dirt packed. If there is one enemy of the burier it's curious George.
Planning the Hit
Reconnaissance is essential. It is what enables you to get into, move around, and get out of a site without getting lost, hurt or caught. It also enables you to assess the needs of the hit in terms of equipment.
Maps are important - mainly in getting on and off the site. As well as having one way in, it is a good idea to have more than one way out. For example, where a site is close to a river, a railway line and a main road, which is the safest means of access? These factors can be assessed from the map, and then tested/observed on the ground before the hit.
The maps I use most are the 1:25,000 scale 'Pathfinder' Ordnance Survey maps. These provide details of the land in the area, field boundaries, roads, footpaths, and any nearby buildings.
There are two ways to get a map of the site:
· Ordnance Survey, at a HMSO and specialist map shops around the country, print up to date digital maps at 1:10,000 or 1:1,000 scale, showing the most recent information on a site. The 1:10,000 maps, and sometimes the 1:1,000 maps can also be found in many local libraries, but they tend to be a few years out of date.
· At some point someone must have applied for planning permission for the site. The planning permission, together with detailed site maps, building drawings and details of any plant on site are kept on 'public registers' with the local planning authority - normally the District council.
If few details are available about the site from maps or planning permissions, the next best option is to get some photographs. One warning about this - never get the photographs developed by a postal service, and if you take them to a shop, never take them to a shop near the site you intend to hit. I suggest a 1-hour photo shop, there the employees usually never have time to actually look at the photographs.
Also, once you have planned the hit, get rid of the photos the day before you carry the hit out. Never dump the photos in the trash - either dispose of them elsewhere or burn them.
Where the site is part of a business, or someone lives there, you should watch the place for a week or two to get an idea of when people come and go. Even on a site, which is continually occupied, there may be a window of opportunity when you can get in, carry out the hit, and get out again.
When carrying out reconnaissance, never barge up to the area and start taking photos! Approach any site with caution. Check for the presence of alarm systems, closed circuit TV (CCTV) cameras, security patrols, guard dogs, or even infrared/microwave motion detectors mounted in the open ground or inside buildings. If you discover any security precautions, you will have to find a way to bypass these systems.
If anything goes wrong - if security guards or the police turn up, if you set off all the alarm systems, or if you hurt yourself and need the quickest route out - it is planning the hit that will save you from ultimate imprisonment and the end of your career. The planning process can be broken down into a number of simple topics or stages. In effect this section reproduces what goes through my mind when I plan any hit.
Selecting your means of access and exit is as important as the hit itself. You may need to get into somewhere avoiding security cameras or floodlighting. To get out you may need to chop through fences.
If possible I prefer to have different routes of access and exit - this is sensible because if your means of access is discovered, a hole in the fence for example, then it does not preclude your planned means of escape.
Don't just plan the access and exit to the site itself either - plan the whole route from the point where you leave your transport through to where you are picked up again. Sometimes it is better to walk three miles across country rather than have to drive a car down the road running to the site.
As well as your means of access and escape, if anything goes wrong you will need to ensure an alternative route.
If you can get someone to drop you off, it is always better if you can be picked up somewhere else so as not to attract attention. If you have to rely on yourself for transport you will need to ensure that your car/bike is not visible - it may even be worth investing in some camouflage netting from your local army surplus store if there is a lack of natural cover.
If there are people on site you will have problems. If there are guards who just sit in their hut, never walk around and do not have CCTV, you can get in, do the hit and get out fairly easily - you will just have to adapt your methods to be silent.
The problem normally arises when you are not aware that people are there, until they confront you. You should have picked up the likelihood of staff being on site when you carried out your initial reconnaissance - but sometimes things happen as you expect them to.
If confronted by someone - just leg it. Don't provoke a confrontation. Any sensible person would not chase someone who was carrying a gun or knife.
You can arrange a distraction - though this will not give you very long to work. Alternately you could use the 'cry wolf' approach. You keep cutting holes in the fence and setting off alarms for a few weeks, but not actually entering the site. Over this time the staff will become tired of the incidents, and will not treat it seriously. Then, one night, you actually do something.
As part of your reconnaissance you should get as much detail as possible of the equipment on site, and its design and construction, in order to assess your tooling needs. You could turn up with the standard kit, outlined earlier, but if you can tailor your tooling resources to the equipment concerned, you will get a better result.
Getting into the site is very important - particularly if there are people around. You may need to devise a way of getting in which does not attract attention - particularly if you want to use the same route out again.
When scoping a site for entry I have a few basic tactics:
· Fences: Go through them, not over them - if you have bolt cutters it won't take any longer, and there is less risk of being spotted. (Tip - with chain link fences, just cut the same thread of wire in the fence top, bottom, and three or four places in between, then pull out the wire with your pliers. The fence will then just fall into two.)
· Roads: Try and keep off them. If there are hedges or walls, travel behind them until you get to the site.
· Walls: Not much option but to go over - in which case you may need extra equipment. I would not rely on exiting over a wall, just in case someone takes your ladder away.
· Ditches/rivers: These can provide good cover, so long as they have a dry bank. If you can, cross the water coming in - it's always better to work dry. If you have to you can always splash through on your way out.
· Gates: If the gate is not locked - fine. If it is, you'll need bolt cutters to get the padlock off. If possible try and get a padlock which looks the same so that you can remove it on your way out without problems. Never leave a cut padlock in view - it's a sure sign to a passing policeman that someone's inside.
· Doors: Doors are problematic. They are very easy things to alarm, either with mechanical micro-switches or magnetic reed switches. If in doubt, you may always try going through the door itself, but the cutting operations will be noisy.
· Open concrete yards/grass: I avoid any open area, especially around factories/offices. Open areas are perfect for using CCTV to pick people up. Another example of open areas to avoid are power stations. Most power stations have clear paths cut through the undergrowth around them. This is because specialized microwave beams run down the avenues, and will sound an alarm when broken by anything more than 2 feet tall.
You will have to consider the options for your own site and work accordingly.
Workplan and timing
I always stick to a work plan. I calculate how long it will take to travel to the point of access; enter the site; travel within the site; retire the mark; exit the site; and travel back to my transport. I also work an order in which to hit the mark, taking into account problems such as being seen, setting off alarms, accommodating neighbor’s movements. This may seem unnecessary, but it is a very effective way of disciplining yourself to do what you came to do, and get out. Also, where considerations such as police patrols, staff changeovers, or covering yourself with an alibi are concerned, timing is essential.
A key consideration in the workplan, if not working alone, is when you are due to be picked up by your transport. When working with others, if I give a precise time to be picked up, and I will ensure that, to the second, I am there. If, for example, travelling into the site takes longer than you anticipate, you should assume your trip out takes long too, and deduct time from your work allocation. Never let your transport sit around, or endlessly circle past waiting for you - it attracts attention. If possible, always arrange a place where you can wait for your transport without being seen, then you will not have to worry if you arrive early.
"The best laid plans of mice and men...." - there is always something you didn't think of. You have to take this into account. Give thought to what happens if you lose a shell casing, or what happens if the mark you're looking for is not there.
In terms of planning, the biggest consideration must be how you use the time - and how the availability of it affects your use of tools. If you were planting incendiary devices, you want it to go off at the right time. This all takes extra time.
Consider also situations, which may assist/prevent, the hit. For example noise may be a prime consideration, but if you hit in the middle of a heavy rainstorm, the noise of the wind and falling rain may cover the noise you make. Likewise, the hit may require travelling long distances cross-country to reach the site, which is best done under a full moon. But if it is cloudy that night, you may have to abort - perhaps until the next full moon. The best way to take problems and setbacks into consideration is to allocate extra time in your workplan.
Having considered the problems, and thought up solutions, reconnaissance will tell you if your solutions will work. It will also give you essential information as to the layout of the facilities you want to hit, what tooling will be required, and an idea of the timings involved for the workplan.
For me, a proper recon. consists of the following things...
· Checking access/exit routes: You must check that what you planned on the map can be achieved on the ground. The best way to do this is to walk the route - if this can be done without arousing suspicion. It will also enable you to familiarize yourself with the route if you have to do it in the dark. You can then select the best way in, and the options to get out.
· Mapping the site: You must familiarize yourself with the layout of the site. Sketch plans, take photos, and memorize a picture of the site in your head. There are also other sources of information you can access. 1:10,000 scale maps will give you detail about the position of buildings, and the planning permission or waste licenses held by your local authority will contain plans detailing not only the location of buildings, but also the layout of rooms inside the building, the location of drainage pipes, services, and perhaps even an identification of what each building is for. Use of council documents is especially useful when you have no way of directly scoping the site. Considering the plan, you should identify the locations.
· Target identification: If there is one thing that is the professionals’ worst nightmare, its mistaken identity. Make sure its the target's house and not his best friends, or girlfriends house.
· Identification of routes around the site: Having identified access, exit, and position of the hit(s), find easy routes between these points within the site, avoiding any problems such as holes, floodlights, CCTV poles, etc.
· Identification of potential hazards: In practice, this means identifying the things that will get you caught. You will need to confirm the hours of operation so that no one will be there when you turn up. If there are people there, you will need to observe their movements to find out if there is the opportunity to carry out the hit. Finally, you will have to consider other human related problems such as the view from nearby properties, the presence of police patrols, and the likelihood of meeting someone on your way to or from the site. You should also conduct a thorough check for CCTV systems, security systems, and any indication that the equipment you want to hit is alarmed.
· Commitment/abort procedure: What are you going to do if you can't carry out the hit? You will need to plan a route to the pick-up point, and you may have to find somewhere to hide while you are waiting.
Bringing all this data together will give you your working plan.
Mapping out your workplan
When you have the results of your recon, start mapping out your workplan. First, work out how much time you need to do the hit, and what weapons you will need. Then, taking into account travel times, work out how long you will be inside the site. Finally, work out how long it will take to get to and from your transport. This will give you the total time the hit will take, and you will be able to plan schedules with your associates and your alibis accordingly.
Just in case of incident, you should also plan an alternative route out. Always assume when planning this route that someone is after you, or that you have injured yourself. If you are relying on someone else for transport, you will also need to arrange another pick-up point, and a time to be there. Realistically the pick up will need to be some distance from the site, or you will have to consider finding your own way home cross-country.
As noted above, you must access the site in a way that does not attract attention - especially if you intend to exit the same way.
If you are using your own transport, it will need to be stored while you are away. This relies on two principles - camouflage, or putting it where no one will think it out of place. For example, a single car in a lay-by on the side of the road attracts attention. A car in a pub car park, where there are many others parked, does not.
If you are being dropped off, don't waste time, Have all your plans clear before you get there, arrive, gloves on, and quickly exit the vehicle with your tools.
Do not proceed with the hit if it is obvious that it cannot be achieved - this is usually when someone is present on the site when you didn't expect it, or the conditions on the site have changed, for example the weather, meaning that the hit cannot take place. In these situations it is essential that you have a way of travelling to the pick-up point, and that you can wait there for your transport.
The benefit of having a plan of work is that you don't waste time on site. You know where to go, you know what to hit and what tools you have to do the job. If there is more than one of you, you should also work out specific responsibilities for working. If you must abandon the workplan, then by necessity, this should entail aborting the whole hit.
When things go wrong
If your planning work was conducted well, things should not go wrong. Things only go wrong because you did not consider them during the planning stage, or they were not anticipated. If things go wrong, don't hang around, make for the exit. If necessary, because the exit route is not available, use your alternative. If you are injured, there are various options. If alone, you should try and make it out straightaway, but if this is not possible, accept defeat, and raise the alarm/find help. If there is more than one of you then there is always the possibility of help. If you are cornered, or caught, give in - they probably have a reasonable identification for you by then anyway.
Leave as planned. If you have to use another route out, use your alternative. If you abandon your plan you risk getting lost, trapped, or seen by people/police/CCTV. The only time to abandon your exit route is when there is no alternative because you are being pursued. Under normal circumstances, return to your transport. If you have planned accordingly, you should turn up a few minutes early and have somewhere to wait out of view. It is also a good idea to have some soap and water so that you can wash off any identifying dirt and grease. It is also a good idea to change your footwear before getting your pick-up, or if there is no time, put some plastic carrier bags around your feet to prevent incriminating dirt/soil getting inside the vehicle.
If possible, do not go home immediately. Dump your equipment, as explained. You should also consider changing clothes and footwear and leaving it there too. You should also wash off if you haven't done so already. If you have any containers or trash, try and get rid of them, or leave them in your stash - don't take anything home. Then, go home, relax, or better still, party!
The prime motive in planning a hit is to avoid detection and capture, and having done that, hiding all the incriminating evidence which may associate you with the incident.
However, in cases where you can expect lots of trouble afterward, you should consider arranging an alibi. There are a number of options...
· Get a friend to stay in your home and make a long phone call (so that it is logged on your billing record) to another friend - the other friend then states that the call was from you, and the record of calls kept at the phone company confirms the date and time of the call;
· If you have an account with a computer bulletin board system, get a friend to stay in your house, give them your password, and let them use it for a couple of hours.
· Arrange a party with your friends - all of whom must agree to state you were at the party the whole time;
· Record the evening's TV on video, or radio on a tape - then memorize it all the instant you get home. When questioned about what you did on your evening in you can quote your evening TV/radio usage accurately.
From experience, you will have an irresistible urge to go back and view your damage the next day when it has been discovered - try and avoid doing this. Unless you hit on a main road or the side of a railway line (so you can view as you travel by), or within view of a well used public building which you have legitimate business being in, going back to the site will only draw attention to yourself.
Another hard problem involving certain types of kills, such as carbombs, Lightbulb bombs, silent in-house kills, etc... Is getting in. In the next chapter I will explain the basics of lockpicking. It should be easy to follow along.
Basics of Lockpicking
Step 1: First Reading
My first recommendation is to read the MIT Guide to Lock picking by Theodore T. Tool. Although the document is rather old (1987), all of the information within it is still valid, and will apply to the majority of the locks you run into on a daily basis. It gives a very good introduction on how to pick pin tumbler locks (the type used on the door to your house). There is simply no better place to start.
Step 2: Second Reading
After you've read the MIT Guide, I encourage to you read the Secrets of Lock picking page. This page gives an overview of many different types of locks and will help you identify the different types as you encounter them. This site doesn't give as much detail about each lock as the MIT Guide, so I recommend reading the MIT Guide first. For now, just concentrate on the wafer tumbler lock information at this site. The other lock types aren't very common, so come back and read those sections after you've picked some pin and wafer tumblers.
Step 3: Purchase a practice lock
That's enough reading. Now you're ready to purchase a practice lock. Odds are, you'll end up destroying this lock, so don't go for anything fancy, or anything you'll want to keep. Walk into any department store and buy a medium priced dead bolt. A dead bolt is the easiest lock to disassemble, so don't stray away towards any other type. Also, the really cheap locks can be hard to open even with the key, so trying to pick them is even worse. The brands you want to look for are either generic names, or Kwikset. Stay away from Schlage, it's more difficult to pick due to the shape of the ward. The lock you purchase should be a five-pin tumbler (you would have a hard time finding a dead bolt that isn't).
Step 4: Remove all but one pin from your lock
Attempting to pick a five-pin tumbler is way too difficult for someone just starting out. So you'll want to make your job easier by removing all but one pin from your lock. This will give you a feel for what it's like to pick a lock so you'll know it when it happens. Taking the pins out of a lock without destroying it isn't intuitive, so I've put together a guide showing how to do it. You'll want to leave the first pin (the pin closest to the front of the lock) in. This will allow you to see what you're doing.
Step 5: Get a torque wrench and a pick.
You probably don't own a lock pick set, so you're going to have to make due with household items. Here is a list of a few items that will serve you well as a torque wrench:
Allen Wrench. This is the best tool. If you have a grinder, pick one that is a size or two too big to enter the keyway, then grind it's width down just enough to enter the keyway. If you don't have a grinder, use a file, or use a different item for a torque wrench. (Using one that fits exactly into the keyway will only work for a while, eventually you'll wear out the keyway).
Screwdriver. Use a very small one, but not so small that it doesn't touch the wards. You'll want to make it as effortless as possible to apply turning pressure.
Paper Clip. Find a sturdy paper clip and straighten it out. Then bend a loop just big enough to fit into the bottom of the keyway. Then bend the remaining wire about 80-90 degrees to the loop.
Here are some tools which may be used as a pick (most of these tools will work well for picking the first pin, but you'll need to upgrade after you've added a pin or two):
Allen Wrench. Pick the smallest one you can find.
Screw Driver. Again, pick the smallest one you can find.
Paper Clip. You'll need one strong enough to withstand the force of the springs.
Straight Pin. File the point off so you don't stick yourself.
Safety Pin. Again, file the point off.
Staple. You'll need one strong enough to withstand the force of the springs. Straighten it out so it's flat, then turn it edgewise when picking.
Step 6: Pick the lock.
And now the moment of truth; you're ready to pick your first lock. Basically, just do what you learned back in step1 and step 2. I find it easiest when the lock is turned upside down. Then place your finger on the torque wrench, and let gravity do the work (you may need to press down just a little bit). Then take your pick and lower the first pin down very slowly. Once you hit the sheer line, you'll know it. The plug will turn, and you'll be amazed as to how easy it was and how little time it took. Return the plug back to the locked position and repeat until you're comfortable.
Step 7: Add some more pins and try again
Now that you know what it feels like, add another pin back in (add pin two, just behind pin one). Now when you get a pin picked, you won't know for sure, not until you try to pick the second one. Practice, Practice, Practice. You'll want to become very proficient at picking two pins before stepping up to three. If you try to advance too quickly, you'll hinder your learning. So take your time. If you practice casually, it will probably take you three to five days to work your way up to five pins. Also, you'll need better tools to pick more than three pins, so order your pick set and practice with two and three pins until your order arrives.
Make your own picks
In order to make any picks, you'll need a grinder. Of course you could try to make them with a file, but considering the time that would take, you'd be better off purchasing a set for $15. But if you do have a grinder, why pay that for 5 minutes worth of work? There really isn't anything sacred about these picks. All measurements can be guestemated and still result in a pick just as functional as any commercial pick on the market.
Important Note: When you're done making your tools, be sure to sand the head and shaft of your tool where the grinder was used. If the edges are not smooth, your tools will not glide smoothly across the pins in a lock. So make sure there are no visible marks on any portion of the tool which will come into contact with the lock.
The measurements don't have to be exact, but they can't be too far fetched either. In the following table "Commercial" applies to the images on this page. All images are of the same scale (when viewed full size). The optimal size depends on the size of your hands and the size of objects you feel comfortable working with. Don't automatically assume you should stick with the size which commercial picks are made, experiment.
Piece Commercial Acceptable
Shaft length 1.50 inches 1.25-2.00 inches
Shaft height 0.1875-0.0625 inches (tapered) Same
Handle 3.00 inches 2.00-4.00 inches
Double sided pick 4.00-4.50 inches 3.50-5.00 inches
Torque wrench head 0.50-0.75 inches 0.50-1.00 inches
Torque wrench handle 3.00 inches 2.00-4.00 inches
The material which best suits the manufacturing of picks is hacksaw blades. They're only about 50 cents each, and you can make about 3-5 picks out of each one. If you want a nice handle on your pick, you can use a small screwdriver, and just grind down the sides. But I find the handle gets in the way more than it helps.
For torque wrenches, I recommend an Allen wrench that is about one or two sizes too big to enter the keyway. Then taper the head so that it slips easily into the keyway. The taper will allow you to use the same wrench on most locks you encounter. Other acceptable materials are: screwdrivers, paper clips, forks (with all but one prong removed), etc.
Unlike the locks on your home, the locks on most automobiles are high security locks. They normally can't be picked without physically modifying the lock. For this reason, people look for other methods of entry. Alternate methods normally include either inserting a device into the door via the weather strip, or prying the top of the door open slightly so that a rod can be inserted to manipulate the lock handle.
Prying the door open takes some skill to avoid damaging the vehicle. So it's rarely used unless absolutely necessary. That leaves us with manipulation inside the door.
Contrary to popular belief, the devices known as Slim Jims do work on almost any modern vehicles. Although few people can get them to work, they aren't using the device right way, and it normally takes some skill and a lot of practice to get the lock open. (95 Neon's are really easy to open. shh...)
What you'll find out, is that almost every vehicle requires a different device to open it. These devices are normally just bent rods, but the bends are often somewhat complex. And not only does each vehicle require a different tool, but also each tool has to be applied in a different manner.
The Human Factor
Unless you're a fool you're going to be scared. Your hands are going to sweat - dry them. Your knees are going to knock - brace them. Your stomach is going to be queasy - this is caused by your diaphragm falling on it making you want to vomit and have butterflies. Thrusting both hands under your rib cage and lifting it off your stomach can control it. Take a deep breath and still clutch the diaphragm and bend over. Straighten up and the diaphragm should be back in place and a lot of your fear will have left you. If it comes back, repeat. One of the biggest problems is holding your breath on approaching the subject. You must make every effort to breathe deeply and naturally. Your flushed face might well alert him, or if your approach is from the rear you might act impulsively, at the wrong moment because you want to get it over with. Take a deep breath and mouth a silent yell. This will cause your fighting hormones to come into action, flex your stomach for energy, and increase your oxygen intake. It will also release a lot of your anxieties and tensions prior to the hit.
When you spot the subject be sure he's the man you've got to kill. Mistaken identity is commonplace. When you do kill, by whatever method, be swift. There is no reason why the subject should be placed in agony. When you are assured he's dead, take a moment to
clean up, check the area for incriminating objects. Nothing attracts attention more than speed so move away from the area in a calm, controlled manner. Proceed to your exfiltration point.
Make 'em talk
Sometimes a job may require that before you retire a mark, that you extract information. Most people who have guns to their heads are reluctant to talk knowing death is inevitable. So here are a few ways to get them hard asses to talk.
Pain used to be the most popular sort of interrogation. The thumbscrew and the rack were famous for "loosening a strong man's tongue." Pain, however, is a two-edged weapon. Its infliction may be able to bring quick results-- but a victim pushed to Extremes of pain may babble anything his questioners wish to hear. Torture can also harden a few individuals. They may resist until death, or prove poor exhibits at a subsequent trial. Also torture can bring about negative propaganda towards the torturer.
The Five S's
1. Stop and search. At checkpoints or random searches, clothing is checked
of weapons, and people are checked against photos to see if they are the suspects being searched for.
2. Segregation. As soon as possible, suspects should be separated from one
another. This helps to break down the suspect's will and allows statements made by other suspects to be checked. Also it reduces the possibility of two or more suspects cooperating together to come up with a clever plan to escape.
3. Silencing. A bag put over the suspect's head disorients and isolates the subject.
4. Speed of interrogation. Initial "safe" questions throw a suspect off guard, and quick "unsafe" questions may be answered unknowingly by the suspect.
5. Safeguard. Thick, steel, locked doors bar escape and crush the suspect's
In civil custody, the same isolation is used as a tool throughout many Western countries. Police forces can deny access to solicitors or friends on the grounds that information may be passed to the suspect's associates in crime. Techniques of sensory deprivation can aid the process of isolation.
Hooded or crowned with an upturned bucket, the simple lack of light and vision can swiftly break a prisoner's grasp on normal realities. The use of "white noise"--a recording of sounds across the spectrum, not unlike the hiss of escaping steam-- blots out auditory contact with the world. Drugs used by Syrian captors of Israeli soldiers’ remove all sensations of sight, smell, hearing and touch, but left the brain active.
To increase time disorientation, periods of lightness and darkness may be
varied irregularly. Meals can be produced at odd intervals so a prisoner looses track of the days of captivity. Even before a formal interrogation has begun, the suspect has already lost contact with reality.
Confusion and uncertainty are increased if his captors treat him with absolute "correctness." Many experts now regard such an approach as more effective than abuse or hostility towards a suspect--which gives him a focus for his aggression and a recognizable opponent. The captors should reveal no emotion and not talk amongst themselves. They should restrict conversation with the prisoner to monosyllabic commands and orders.
Since Man is a social animal, the surge of relief encountered when he is lead
into a room and comforted by an apparent friend may overwhelm his determination to keep silent.
Soft Man, Hard Man
The "Hard Man, Soft Man" technique is definitely the most interesting form of
non-drug interrogation to be produced by the twentieth century.
It is basically this: One interrogator ("The Hard Man") is violent and unfriendly. He insults and may physically attack the suspect. The other interrogator is nice, friendly, and compassionate. He may offer the prisoner something to eat or cigarettes. He also establishes a friendly relationship by opening a conversation, rather than by conducting a question-and-answer period. One will hurt the subject, the other will comfort the subject, and then the "Hard Man" will take over again. Despite awareness of the game he is caught up in, the prisoner finds it difficult not to relax and lower his guard with the
The toughest job of an interrogator is getting the prisoner to break faith with his friends or organization. He must convince him that his group has rejected him, or that they have cooperated also, thus exonerating him from silence. At his most effective, the interrogator uses a mix of suggestion and deprivation to persuade the captive to identify with the new group that the captive represents.
Lack of sleep is another very effective method of breaking down a suspects
This chapter is about the tools and equipment that are used in this field. Decide what you should and shouldn't use. Each job requires different types of equipment.
- Knit Cap/Beanie-- To cover your hair from shedding (forensic evidence) or if you have a colorful hair i.e. blond, red.
-Boonie Hat-- Same reason, but this would be more for the summer time and during the day.
-Baseball BDU Cap-- Same reason, I don't like them as much. One good thing about these is you can walk around with out looking suspicious.
-Balclava-- This looks like a ninja mask and is very useful at covering face except around eyes.
-Black out Mask-- You can buy these around Holloween time, they cover the whole head so no features can be seen. the draw back is it can make it hard to see at night at distances.
-Ski Mask-- The ski mask has been in use for a long time now, many different types of elements used to cover their mugs... have used it I would suggest it to anybody, because they're cheap and useful. I have 5 of them.
-Overalls-- You can buy these at your local goods store i.e. Wal-Mart. These are good for costume disguise. It can be used as a disguise for plumber, electrician, etc.
-BDU'S-- Battle Dress Uniform, are what the Army wears. The best color obviously goes with what you're doing, i.e. Night time (black) Urban (gray or subdued) Woods (woodland) etc.
-Dickies-- Dickies are actually work clothing, but can be used for many different things. I personally prefer black when I do dirt. Plus they can be worn out in public w/o drawing too much attention. (now they come in cargo style too)
-M-65 Field Jacket-- This another outfit used by the Army, It goes great with BDU's, during the Winter or when it gets cold, and they come in the same color that BDU's come in.
-Leather Jacket (optional)-- A Leather Jacket is good for a few reasons; you can wear it out in public, w/o drawing attention (not during the summer time dumbass), It can cover up concealed weapons i.e. a gun or knife, and it's STYLIN'.
-Boots-- Army boots are good when you're going through rough terrain and long distances, but if you've never been in army boots they can cause blisters. Another bad thing is they really aren't too quiet when it comes to sneaking around, of course if you're trained in the art of stealth or know what you're doing you can make it work.
-Ninja Tabi Boots- This are the absolute best for sneaking around, the draw back is you can hurt your feet easier due to lack of protection. I'd prefer these if you're going over light terrain.
-Cortez's-- These are shoes made by NIKE, and they are pretty cheap too $39.99 down here. They are good for two reasons the soft sole (sneaking around) and protection (better than Tabi boots). The one's I'd suggest are the black leather with white SWOOSH (All you do is take off the SWOOSH.) One of my friends told me they make black on black but I haven't found them.
-School Backpack-- The school backpack is the kind you can buy at WAL-MART. These are the 2 pocket backpacks. They are good, to a certain point, but the lack of more than two pockets is bad.
-A.L.I.C.E. Pack-- A.L.I.C.E. packs are used by the Army, but I'm talking about the small one's not the large one's. They are good because they have more than two pockets. They can be obtrusive though.
-Duffel Bag-- Duffels are good because the amount of stuff they can hold, but are bad because you have to carry it in your hands. Eventually that will become tiresome, and you'll have to let your hands rest.
-Leather Gloves-- These are good for a few reasons; they prevent finger prints, they allow you to grasp things w/o hurting your hands (barb wire), and provide padding when you punch something
(glass or some fools head).
-Fingerless Gloves-- These aren't good for anything much but style. I guess they are good for concealing the hand (not the fingers) at night.
-Driving Gloves-- These are good when using a gun, because they are form fitting (tight) which allows easy trigger use, and they prevent finger prints.
-Latex (Surgeon) Gloves-- These gloves are good for one thing and one thing only, and that's preventing finger prints. I carry a pair with me everywhere I go. They're cheap too.
-Batting Gloves-- I just recently bought me a pair of these they work just as good as the driving gloves, at a fraction of the cost.
-Rubber Gloves-- The kind you use when you clean. The only problem is that they are usually bright yellow. Although they are excellent for preventing fingerprints.
BulletProof Vests-- Hmm.... how could these be useful?
-Kneepads-- These I would say are optional you don't need them but they wouldn't hurt.
-Vests-- Vests are good because they provide easy access to smaller articles of equipment (lock picks, ammo, etc.). They can't carry as much as backpacks but I like them just the same. These can range in prices from $20.00 to $300.00.
-Holsters-- Holsters as I'm sure you know hold your gun. There are several kinds of holsters pancake, hip, ankle, back, and hidden.
-Ninja Uniforms-- Yes, Ninja uniforms. Why these? Because they are the best to use when trying to be silent (seeing how that's what they were made for). They prevent swishing, and cover practically the whole body (except eyes). They also have hidden pockets that can be used to conceal throwing stars or knives.
-Ghille Suits-- These are used by snipers world round. You can buy them or make 'em they are very useful.
-Binoculars-- Bino's are good for lookouts and scanning a perimeter for guards or dogs or what not.
-Flashlight-- Flashlights are very useful when in the dark (obviously). I would suggest them when doing anything where you might encounter dark areas i.e. robbing houses at night.
-Rope-- Rope is good for tying up people or rappelling down a cliff or a roof or climbing.
-Dog Whistle-- Ooh boy I tell you these are very handy, if you're running around yards at night and a dog starts barking just blow on it and they stop and it's not audible by human ears.
-Stun Gun-- I would suggest that if you were going to buy a stun gun get 200,000 volts or better anything less would be useless. The main draw back is their buzzing sound. A pretty loud ZZZZZZZZZ.
-Mace-- It's also good on dogs and humans as well but they only stun they don't knock 'em out.
-Crowbar-- These are good for prying doors, breaking windows, or smashing faces take your pick.
-Torch-- These are good for cutting through locks, chains, or melting glass.
-Lockpicks-- These are good for opening doors, safes, car doors, and pretty much anything with a lock. They come in so many different types Warded lock picks, Sesame Lock picks, Tumbler Lock Picks, Slim Jim's, and a whole lot more. The main draw back is you need a lot of experience to use them.
-Grappling Hook-- This is what you use to get on top of roofs you attach them to the ends of ropes and toss.
-Center Nail Punch-- If you've seen the "JACKEL" when he breaks into the car to steal the parking pass, this is what he used. All you do is press against a surface, which triggers the spring. They're useful if you aren't worried about noise.
-Cobra Talk Radios-- I have a pair of these and they are very useful. They have a two-mile range, and you can get ear bud mic's or voice activated mics. They're good to communicate with other team members or lookouts.
-Nightvision Goggles-- These are better than a flash light because there is no light shining from it, and you can see in total darkness. One draw back is the fact it amplifies light thousands of time, I'd suggest avoiding looking into bright lights.
-Gas Mask- They are good if the cops try to smoke you out or if you are moving through a smoke bomb.
-Tactical Baton-- Good for breaking glass, or bustin' ass.
-Hand Cuffs-- These are good but can be expensive to waste on people.
-Goggles and Snorkel-- Goggles and Snorkel are very useful if running from the cops. Especially if you are near a waterway, or canal.
-First Aid Kit-- This is obviously a great accommodation when going on a hit. The job is very unpredictable, so just in case this is always a definite.
-Bolt Cutters-- Good for going through fences and cutting wire and what have you.
-Camera-- A good camera with a zoom lenses. Such as a Nikon, or Minolta. Good for surveillance.
-Video Camera-- Also good for surveillance, it also provides moving pictures. Obviously.
-Espionage Equipment-- Bugs, phone bugs, etc. All are very useful for gathering information. They can be expensive though.
-Tool Set-- Containing small and large screwdrivers, wrenches, hacksaws, Philips head, files, small cordless drill, drill bits, etc.
-Boot Knife-- Boot knives are normally double bladed 4" to 6" long, they are mainly used for back up.
-Combat Knife-- Are normally two sided one side has a smooth blade and the other serrated and are usually around 5" to 10" long. They can also contain other items in their handles or sheaths.
-Fighting Knife-- Are double bladed and have a blade about 6" long.
-Lock Blades-- These are just knives that have locking and folding blades. They can come in many sizes.
-Switch Blade Knives- These are illegal but they are useful for the quick hit kill, which’s why they are illegal.
-Butterfly Knives- These knives are also illegal in most states but hey I got two.
-Throwing Knives-- These are good if you know how to use them. It takes alot of practice to get the hang of these. Trust me I know I've lost three of them just in target practice.
Guns (more common)
.22 LR Ruger MKII
Govt. assassins, “Mafia” Hitmen, and pest control use the .22 alike. Why, because they can easily be silenced. A good piece for a amateur or pro. Only draw back is the short range
.38 snub-nosed Revolver
The snub, so named for it's short snubbed barrel. I like this gun for its concealibility and the fact that it doesn't eject cartridges. I'm sure you understand what I'm saying.
.44 Caliber Revolver
The .44 is good for two reasons its power and damage rate. The main drawbacks, it's kick, it's noise and it's cartridge capacity (6-rounds).. Good for basically a quick drop.
.45 Colt Mark IV
The Colt .45 is another great weapon for power and punch, plus it has a greater cartridge capacity. Not a gun for amateurs
9 mm Beretta 92FS
The Beretta is used by the govt. and I think it is a very good gun especially for assassination, it can also be silenced. You can use it for any kind of crime and it has a large capacity.
9 mm Glock 19
This is another great gun for crime, it's also favored by middle eastern terrorists. Why you ask, because everything except the firing pin and barrel are made of polymer there for non-metallic (metal detectors). Good for close-range kills. Plus they are a favorite of police, so you can find them in houses when you rob them.
9 mm Sig Sauer P228
This gun is known for its reliability so much the fed's use it. Even though the feds are a bunch of dirty hoars, at least they got taste.
H&K USP .45
The USP has just recently been discovered by the military. It's now being employed by the Spec Ops community. I think this it is one of the most accurate handguns today.
.45 Ingram MAC-10
You've probably seen this in every gang movie made. Why because it can fire it's rounds off before you can finish wipin' your nose. It's not all that accurate at full auto, but it gets the job done.
This another street gang gun for a few reasons: 1. It's easy accessibility (you can find 'em everywhere) 2. They have a great rate of fire. 3. It's cheap but reliable. The main draw back, is the fact that it's accuracy sucks like shit. At full-auto you'll be lucky to hit the target dead-on more than twice.
9 mm UZI
This another good gun but unlike the others it has a good auto control rate. It was made by the Israeli's and adopted by U.S spec ops only to be replaced by the MP-5
9 mm H&K MP5
This is considered the best sub-machine gun by practically everyone. It has the best control, rate of fire yada yada. The main draw back is its accessibility. I've yet to hear of one used in a street crime. I'm guessing the best way to obtain one is to break into a SWAT team member’s car trunk and snatch it.
AR-7's aren't really all that popular with assassin's or criminals alike, but the AR-7 has many things to offer: It's accurate, it's easily silenced, it disassembles easily, it all compacts to fit into rifle butt, and it floats on water... I'm sure that can be useful
The AK-47 is a great weapon, used by probably 3/4 of the world's military. It is used as a combat weapon. Another good thing is the bullets will pierce just about any body armor.
The main weapon used by the U.S. military. It's another weapon that can be used for basic sniping (400 to 500 yards) and can be used for close quarter’s battle, though I'd suggest the MP-5 for CQB.
Although it's not the cruiser it's a very good shotgun it's just not as compact and easy to hide, unless you saw off the tip and get a pistol grip.
Movin on up... (Expensive guns)
The P7 is used by German spec ops and highly financed terrorists. I doubt you'll find this on the streets.
The P9S is used by the Navy SEALS and probably some others, not too common on the streets.
M-9 w/Laser sight
This is the military version of the Beretta 92FS, although it has a greater cartridge capacity, it doesn’t have the stopping power of the .45.
Glock 19 w/ selector switch
This is a 9mm gun with a selector switch. What is that for.. you say. It has semi full-auto, 3 round burst, and single shot. Another thing is this things rate of fire is greater than any sub-machine gun I can think of 1900 rds a minute (source: Janes Gun Guide)
The Micro Uzi is the smallest of the Uzi family, it's favored as a extra firepower back up usually accompanying a handgun. It's favored for its concealability and automatic fire rate.
This is just a more condensed version of the Uzi smaller in size and that's about it.
MP5K is the version used by security forces like Secret Service and U.S. Marshals of course it's because it can easily be concealed under a jacket or coat.
Delta, SEALs, and pretty much anyone who deals in CQB use this. PDW stands for Personal Defense Weapon.
This gun is on the up and up, it's now being used by snipers by replacing the basic scope with a more powerful one. It's also been shortened and used by certain countries (FRANCE) paratroopers.
HK Tactical Briefcase
This is some cool shit, you've seen it in Replacement Killers. It's a H&K MP5 PDW rigged to a suitcase. It keeps your gun concealed. It's tight.
Mossberg 590 Cruiser
The 590 is a new version put out by Mossberg and let me tell you it kicks ass as much if not more than the 500's one of the main difference's is the compact size, for easy concealment.
Franchi SPAS 12 Gauge
This gun is good in accuracy and power. It's used by military and terrorists. Some say this gun is better than the Mossberg 500
Well it's been fun. I hope you can find meaning in this book. I put every ounce of nothing in this. As you can tell I pasted alot of the info I've written, and used alot of sources for this "book." Please forgive me, if you complain that this isn't all his work, he borrowed files from other people. Well folks I've given due credit, and until you set out to write a book and figure out it isn't that easy don't open your mouth.
Love, peace, and chicken grease. (sike!)