The Complete Anarchist Compendium Version 1.0 Compiled by Pi and Styxx Table of Contents Explosives.................................... Section 1 Phreaking..................................... Section 2 Hacking....................................... Section 3 Scams..........................................Section 4 Drugs......................................... Section 5 Necessary Information......................... Section 6 Lockpicking................................... Section 7 Conclusion.................................... Section 8 Explosives The Terrorist's Handbook ------------------------ Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O and B.S. of Hardbodies Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling checker.......This file NEEDED IT! (*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*) SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO: Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files! Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there! The Producer : For getting the files to me.... The Director : For getting the files to me.... Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!! The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!! This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!! This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 1.0 INTRODUCTION Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals. The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be carried out by a terrorist with minimal knowledge. File: The Terrorist's Handbook Uploaded by: The Mad Alchemist 1.1 Table of Contents DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS 2.01 ........ Black Powder 2.02 ........ Pyrodex 2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder 2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder 2.05 ........ Flash Powder 2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS 2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks 2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY 2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 ........ Nitric Acid 2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid 2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES 3.01 ........ Explosive Theory 3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES 3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals 3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate 3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine 3.14 ........ Picrates 3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.21 ........ Black Powder 3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose 3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures 3.24 ........ Perchlorates 3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES 3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite) 3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate 3.33 ........ ANFOS 3.34 ........ T.N.T. 3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate 3.36 ........ Dynamite 3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives 3.38 ........ Picric Acid 3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D) 3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride 3.41 ........ Lead Azide 3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" 3.51 ........ Thermit 3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails 3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle 3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives 4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES 4.1 ....... SAFETY 4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES 4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition 4.22 ........ Impact Ignition 4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition 4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition 4.241 ....... Mercury Switches 4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches 4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators 4.3 ....... DELAYS 4.31 ........ Fuse Delays 4.32 ........ Timer Delays 4.33 ........ Chemical Delays 4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS 4.41 ........ Paper Containers 4.42 ........ Metal Containers 4.43 ........ Glass Containers 4.44 ........ Plastic Containers 4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES 4.51 ........ Shaped Charges 4.52 ........ Tube Explosives 4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions 4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs 4.55 ........ Book Bombs 4.56 ........ Phone Bombs 5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS 5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE) 5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition 5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition 5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition 5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS) 5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition 5.22 ........ Shotguns 5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS) 5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition 5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition 6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS 6.1 ....... ROCKETS 6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb 6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb 6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs 6.2 ........ CANNONS 6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon 6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon 7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA 7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs 7.2 ......... Colored Flames 7.3 ......... Tear Gas 7.4 ......... Fireworks 7.41 ........ Firecrackers 7.42 ........ Skyrockets 7.43 ........ Roman Candles 8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION 9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS 10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY 11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR 2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. 2.01 BLACK POWDER Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN DDDDD DDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDD F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in America. 2.02 PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried. 2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder. 2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. 2.05 FLASH POWDER Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. 2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers. 2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college. Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour. 2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket- knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: (1) _________________________________________________________ v 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | ^ Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: __________________________________________ / ________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made properly. 2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here. Chemical Used In Available at ________ _______ ____________ _____________________________________________________________________________ alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven _____________________________________________________________________________ ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores ____________________________________________________________________________ lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores _____________________________________________________________________________ glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store _____________________________________________________________________________ charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store _____________________________________________________________________________ cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores _____________________________________________________________________________ strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores, _____________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate water purification purification plants _____________________________________________________________________________ hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores methenamine (camping) _____________________________________________________________________________ nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops plates photography stores _____________________________________________________________________________ iodine & first aid drug stores _____________________________________________________________________________ sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores for cutting torches _____________________________________________________________________________ notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming. + Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. @ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this. ^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%. & The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to. 2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS 2.31 NITRIC ACID There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!! Materials: Equipment: DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source potassium nitrate retort distilled water ice bath concentrated sulfuric acid stirring rod collecting flask with stopper 1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort. 2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does. 3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath. 4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it. Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder, simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar. 2.32 SULFURIC ACID Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil. 2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the remaining water. 3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS. These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually scaled-down industrial procedures. 3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may do both. High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives. Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer. 3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives. 3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner: Materials Equipment DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD iodine crystals funnel and filter paper paper towels clear ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars for the suicidal) 1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again. 2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. 3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel. 4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper. 5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. 6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about eight chunks. 7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed. 3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably use the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2) acid (35 ml) adjustable heat ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source distilled water blue litmus paper funnel and filter paper 1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid, using the glass rod. 2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the solution turns green and boils. 3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. 4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the distilled water to the solution. 5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and toxic. 6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the wet crystals 7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from any explosive or flammable material. This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume of mercury. 3.13 NITROGLYCERINE Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: MATERIAL EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD distilled water eye-dropper table salt 100 ml beaker sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) concentrated nitric ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper glycerine 1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. 2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved. 3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature. 4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. 5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this. 6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities. 7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. 8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. 9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. 10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. 3.14 PICRATES Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive. 3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order explosives. 3.21 BLACK POWDER First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium clay grinding bowl nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder or or sodium wooden salad bowl nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3) charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1) distilled water coffee pot or heat source 1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags. 2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag. 3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet. 4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black. 5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water. 6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity. 3.22 NITROCELLULOSE Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers concentrated funnel and filter paper nitric acid blue litmus paper concentrated sulfuric acid distilled water 1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. 2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes. 3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in. 4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored. 3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer: oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact sensitive; unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; charcoal 15% unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely magnesium or unstable! aluminum dust 25% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable aluminum dust 33% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable sulfur 5% burn rate DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before ignition depends WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable magnesium or aluminum dust 20% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ? DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is sulfur 10% black powder! DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot or magnesium 40% oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes ================================================================================ potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for and small amount of space shuttle iron oxide DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate (sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder sulfur 20% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate aluminum dust 5% flash powder DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly magnesium or unstable aluminum dust 25% DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; aluminum or ignites if magnesium dust 25% it gets wet! DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable sulfur 10% ================================================================================ NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning. As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture. 3.24 PERCHLORATES As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal. 3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES High order explosives can be made in the home without too much difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed. 3.31 R.D.X. R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD hexamine 500 ml beaker or methenamine glass stirring rod fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container (plastic bucket) distilled water centigrade thermometer table salt blue litmus paper ice ammonium nitrate 1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. 2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes 4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid. 5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe. 6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. 8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. 9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. 10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. 3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap- hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The diagram below will explain. _________________________________________ | | | ________| | | | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | |primer |booster| | |_______| | | | | | |_______|_______________________________| The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it. 3.33 ANFOS ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off. 3.34 T.N.T. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is filtered. 3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must, however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is outlined below: MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag (9 parts, by volume) petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl (vaseline) or (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon 1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate. 2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder. 3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag. 4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products. 3.36 DYNAMITE The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. 3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated. 3.38 PICRIC ACID Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask concentrated adjustable heat source sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1000 ml beaker concentrated nitric or other container acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in distilled water filter paper and funnel glass stirring rod 1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture. 2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil. 3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes. 4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath. 5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours. 6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold. 7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive. 8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously. 9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry. 10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously. 3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. 3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to produce. 1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. 2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass pipe. 3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately. Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube. The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water. 4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours. 3.41 LEAD AZIDE Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. 3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results. 3.51 THERMIT Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. MATERIALS DDDDDDDDD powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) 1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. 2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited. 3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown 3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT DDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDD potassium chlorate glass bottle (2 teaspoons) (12 oz.) sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, with plastic inside concentrated cooking pan with raised sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels glass or plastic cup and spoon 1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. 2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry. 4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. 5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry. 6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. 7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface. 8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. 9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame. 3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely. 4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section. 4.1 SAFETY There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe. 4.2 IGNITION DEVICES There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide. 4.21 FUSE IGNITION The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below: MATERIALS _________ strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape waterproof fuse 1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below: Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds. 20 seconds DDDDDDDDDD = 2.5 seconds per inch. 8 inches If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch: 10 seconds DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD = 4 inches 2.5 seconds / inch NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!! 2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off. 3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter. 4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. 5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. _____________________ \ / \ / ------ match book cover \ / | M|f|M ---|------- match head | A|u|A | | T|s|T | | C|e|C | |tapeH|.|Htape| | |f| | |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper |#####|s|#####| \ |e| / \ |.| / \ |f| / \ |u| / |ta|s|pe| |ta|e|pe| |.| |f| |u| |s| |e| |.| |_| The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled. 6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads. 4.22 IMPACT IGNITION Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below: ________________ | | _ | | | | _______| |^^^^^^^^| | | ___________| | | | | no. 11 |_______| | percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing cap here | | | nipple onto bomb | |___________ | |_______ | | | |^^^^^^^^^| | |_| | | |________________| When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard. 4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive. 4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed 4.241 Mercury Switches Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch. ______________ A / \ B _____wire +______/___________ \ \ ( Hg ) | / \ _(_Hg_)__|___/ | | wire - | | | When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed in your face by an explosion. 4.242 Tripwire Switches A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to explode. __________________________________ \_foil___________________________/ Insert strip of ----------------------------spring wood with trip- _foil__________________________ wire between foil /_______________________________\ contacts. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts electricity. 4.243 Radio Control Detonators In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detonator). 4.3 DELAYS A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does. 4.31 FUSE DELAYS It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed. |=| |=| ---------- filter |=| | | | | |o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_| ---------- light this end A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry. 4.32 TIMER DELAYS Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired. ___________________________________ to igniter from igniter | | | 12 | : : | 11 1 | : : | | : : | 10 2 | : : | o................|......: : | | : | 9 3 | : | | : | | : | 8 4 | : | o.........|...... : | 7 5 | : : | 6 | :.+.....-.....: |__________________________________| __|_____| | | | battery | o - contacts | | ..... - wire | | |___________| This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit, allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib. The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up. 4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page. _ _ | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____________| | | | | | | | sulfuric | | | | | | | | acid | | | | | |---------- aluminum foil | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) |_________________| The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways. 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid. 2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermit. 3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way. 4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror. 4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so that it looks like this: ________________________________________________________ | |\ | | \ | | \ |______________________________________________________|___\ and then fold it again so that it looks like this: _______________________________________________________ | /| | / | | / | |__________________________________________________/___| A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one shown below: ^ / \ ----- securely tape all corners / \ / \ / \ / \ / \____________________________ /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse 4.42 METAL CONTAINERS The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2. _________ _______________ __________ | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ___________________________ | | | | | | | | | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | |_______| |________| fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. ________ ________ | _____|________________________________|_____ | | |__________________________________________| | | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | |________|_________________________________| | | |__________________________________________| | |______| |______| endcap pipe endcap w/ hole fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: ________ _______________________________________________/ | | | | o | |______________________________________________ | \_______| fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) ______ ____________________________________________/ | | | | | | o | | |___________________________________________ | | \__|__| fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) ____________ fuse hole | v _________________________________________________ | \ |____ | | \____| | | ______| | / |_____________________________/__________________ fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) _________________ fuse / | ________ ______________________________|___ _______ | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ | | |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / \_____________________________________/ fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive (side view) A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called "crater makers". A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit. The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: _______________________ fuse | | | _________ | _________ | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | |______________________________________________| | |_______| |_______| If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. 4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. ________________________ fuse | | | _____|_____ | ___|___ | | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > | < | | | | | | | | | | screw cap on bottle | | | | V V _________ < > < > < > / \ / \ / \ | | fill bottle with low-order explosive | | | | | | | | |___________| Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was able to detonate. 4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type of device. || || || || ||\_____________/|| || || || epoxy || ||_______________|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||** explosive **|| ||***************|| ||***********----------------------- fuse ||***************|| ||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| || || || epoxy || || _____________ || ||/ \|| || || || || One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. 4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks. Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve high- order explosives. 4.51 SHAPED CHARGES A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + wire ________ _______ - wire | | | | | | _ _________|_________|____________ ^ | ________|_________|__________ | | | | | | | | | | | \ igniter / | | | | | \_______/ | | | | | priming charge | | | | | (mercury fulminate) | | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | / \ | | 8 inches high | | / \ | | | | / high \ | | | | | / explosive \ | | | | | / charge \ | | | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch | | | / \ | | thick steel | | | / \ | | pipe | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | hole for | | | | hole for | screw | | | | screw | | | | | V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| |<------- 8 inches -------->| If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful electromagnet. 4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like this: || || || || ||\____/|| || epoxy|| ||______|| || || ||tissue|| || paper|| ||______|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || RDX || ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || ____ || || | s| || || | q| || || | u| || || | i| || || | b| || || | b| || || |__| || ||__||__|| ||tissue|| || paper|| ||__||__|| || || || || epoxy|| || || || || _||_ || ||/ || \|| || || || || || || ||_______ + wire ______________ | |________ - wire ______________ When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. 4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. 4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the light. 4.55 BOOK BOMBS Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: ________________________ | ____________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |__________________| | |______________________| (book covers omitted) This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination. 4.56 PHONE BOMBS The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes... 5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from crossbows to shotguns. 5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets. 5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: _____ | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap ||*|| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| ----------- aluminum piping |*| |e| |x| |p| |l| |o| |s| |i| |v| |e| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| /|_|\ / |t| \ | |p| | | |_| | | |e| | -------- fins | |p| | | |y| | |_|_|_| |_| tp: tissue paper epy: epoxy When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. 5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: ____________________ /mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/----------------------- 5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. 5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION. 5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below. _o_ ------------ drop of wax /|*|\ | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive | |_| | |_____| This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets. 5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: ____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun 5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons. 5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: _____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V ______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long. 5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. 6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery. Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to fear. 6.1 ROCKETS Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. __________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. 6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. ____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________| thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> :::: Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: |\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | | leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/ The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. | fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | | By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustated on the following page: ____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \ V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______| Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground | 6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | | |___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \ | / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | | C6-0 rocket engine The fuse is put in the bottom engine. Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger. 6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | |___| ___| |___ | | | | | | T | | / \ | U | / \ / \| B |/ \ | || E || | | C || || C | | M || || M | | ||___|| | \___/| E |\___/ | N | /| G |\ / | I | \ / | N | \ / | E | \ / |___| \ / fin/ | \ fin\ | / | \ | \__/ | \__/ ^ |____ fin The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. 6.2 CANNON The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. 6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: __________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |______________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________| An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |\ /| | | | ---- tape |_|_| | | ------ fuse 6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |___| | E | | N | | G | | I | | N | | E | |___| the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity. 7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines. Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects. 7.1 SMOKE BOMBS One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. 7.2 COLORED FLAMES Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear below. COLOR MATERIAL USED IN DDDDD DDDDDDDD DDDDDDD _______________________________________________________________________________ red strontium road flares, salts red sparklers (strontium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ green barium salts green sparklers (barium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ yellow sodium salts gold sparklers (sodium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ blue powdered copper blue sparklers, old pennies _______________________________________________________________________________ white powdered magnesium firestarters, or aluminum aluminum foil _______________________________________________________________________________ purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, treating sewage DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD 7.3 TEAR GAS A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. EQUIPMENT _________ 1. ring stands (2) 2. alcohol burner 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 4. clamps (2) 5. rubber stopper 6. glass tubing 7. clamp holder 8. condenser 9. rubber tubing 10. collecting flask 11. air trap 12. beaker, 300 ml MATERIALS _________ 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water 1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. 2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. 3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. 4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. 5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. 7.4 FIREWORKS While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror, they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun, profit, or nasty uses. 7.41 FIRECRACKERS A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below: 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse. 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy. 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry. 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. 7.42 SKYROCKETS An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced. 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. 7.43 ROMAN CANDLES Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble. 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry. 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil. 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. 8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like. COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 _______________________________________________________________________________ UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838 _______________________________________________________________________________ AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 _______________________________________________________________________________ BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 _______________________________________________________________________________ CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692 _______________________________________________________________________________ EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NEVADA 89509 _______________________________________________________________________________ BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547 _______________________________________________________________________________ NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095 _______________________________________________________________________________ RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 _______________________________________________________________________________ STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 _______________________________________________________________________________ WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 46975 _______________________________________________________________________________ BOOKS DDDDD THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL MILITARY EXPLOSIVES FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS 9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following: LIQUIDS SOLIDS _______ ______ ____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate ____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate ____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder) ____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate ____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium ____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum ____ Potassium Permanganate ____ Sulfur ____ Mercury ____ Potassium Nitrate ____ Potassium Hydroxide ____ Phosphorus ____ Sodium Azide ____ Lead Acetate ____ Barium Nitrate 10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school chemistry book. 1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O 4 4 2 2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide " + HNO ----> KNO + " 3 3 3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " 3 4 3 4 4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " 3 3 3 3 5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H 3 2 B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al 3 2 The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. 11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently attending a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He was raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school education there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about eight years of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was slightly more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce explosive devices for several years. He also became interested in model rocketry, and has built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While in high school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an associate's back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro- Technologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then decided to reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive device, he chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that produces effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen in the midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his favorite day of the year. Pax et Discordia, the Author From Lunatic Labs UnLtd. 415-278-7421 Date: 12:45 am Tue Mar 12, 1991 Public 26/79 From: Peregrine #36 Things that go BOOM! To: Dark Angel #1 Title: CaCO3 and HOH >> This message is a reply Only make ACETYLENE GAS!!! The reason why the gunpowder does not blow is because 80 percent of the OXYGEN in the canister has been replaced by ACETYLENE!!! You should try something with a little more KICK, like maybe a quart bell jar, with a pint canning jar inside, the space inbetween filled with water, and various jagged metal objects of your choice, then punch a hole about 1/2 inch in diameter in the top of the smaller jar's lid (make sure you get the WATER TIGHT lids, else this thing will blow in your face) and melt about 1 1/2 bars of soap, and make SURE that the hole is COMPLETELY covered. Then pour some diesel fuel into the smaller jar (better yet, just get a tub filled with the stuff (large enough to hold the sodium, or cesium {if you are lucky enough to be able to FIND it} AND the container it is held in. as the stuff is packed in deisel OIL (you can replace the fuel with the oil, but it is by FAR more expensive) and transfer the sodium (cesium) into the pint jar. Pour off the excess and wipe all traces of fuel/oil off of the threads of the pint jar, replace it in the quart jar (maybe I should have been more explicit, this should be the FIRST step) THEN fill the space in between with whatever able to totally immerse the pint jar lid. Screw the cap on TIGHTLY and now you have an incindeary/anti-personnell weapon that has a time delay, turn it upside down, balance it on the quart jar lid, and when the water chews its way through the plug, the cesium/sodium, and water combine, (sodium will burn BRIGHTLY in the water vapor in the air, (hence why it is packed in deisel oil) and will EXPLODE when in contact with water, cesium is about the same, but with about four times the force/unit of quantity). NOW THAT would do a little bit of damage don't ya think? YFNEITS.... Peregrine Falcon 3**==>/Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Explosives\<==**3 : Written by -MANY- people : : |\/| : : Put Together By The | |ad Rutabega : ==>/Atomic Bomb\<== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The following paper is taken from The journal of Irreproducible Results, Volume 25/Number 4/1979. P.O. Box 234 Chicago Heights, Illinois 60411 Subscription's 1 year for $3.70 1. INTRODUCTION Worldwide controversy has been generated recently from several court decisions in the United States which have restricted popular magazines from printing articles which describe how to make an atomic bomb. The reason usually given by the courts is that national security would be compromised if such information were generally available. But, since it is commonly known that all of the information is publicly available in most major metropolitan libraries, obviously the court's officially stated position is covering up a more important factor; namely, that such atomic devices would prove too difficult for the average citizen to construct. The United States courts cannot afford to insult the vast majorities by insinuating that they do not have the intelligence of a cabbage, and thus the "official" press releases claim national security as a blanket restriction. The rumors that have unfortunately occurred as a result of widespread misinformation can (and must) be cleared up now, for the construction project this month is the construction of a thermonuclear device, which will hopefully clear up any misconceptions you might have about such a project. We will see how easy it is to make a device of your very own in ten easy steps, to have and hold as you see fit, without annoying interference from the government or the courts. The project will cost between $5,000 and $30,000 dollars, depending on how fancy you want the final product to be. Since last week's column, "Let's Make a Time Machine", was received so well in the new step-by-step format, this month's column will follow the same format. 2. CONSTRUCTION METHOD 1. First, obtain about 50 pounds (110 kg) of weapons grade Plutonium at your local supplier (see NOTE 1). A nuclear power plant is not recommended, as large quantities of missing Plutonium tends to make plant engineers unhappy. We suggest that you contact your local terrorist organization, or perhaps the Junior Achievement in your neighborhood. 2. Please remember that Plutonium, especially pure, refined Plutonium, is somewhat dangerous. Wash your hands with soap and warm water after handling the material, and don't allow your children or pets to play in it or eat it. Any left over Plutonium dust is excellent as an insect repellant. You may wish to keep the substance in a lead box if you can find one in your local junk yard, but an old coffee can will do nicely. 3. Fashion together a metal enclosure to house the device. Most common varieties of sheet metal can be bent to disguise this enclosure as, for example, a briefcase, a lunch pail, or a Buick. Do not use tinfoil. 4. Arrange the Plutonium into two hemispheral shapes, separated by about 4 cm. Use rubber cement to hold the Plutonium dust together. 5. Now get about 100 pounds (220 kg) of trinitrotoluene (TNT). Gelignite is much better, but messier to work with. Your helpful hardware man will be happy to provide you with this item. 6. Pack the TNT around the hemisphere arrangement constructed in step 4. If you cannot find Gelignite, fell free to use TNT packed in with Playdo or any modeling clay. Colored clay is acceptable, but there is no need to get fancy at this point. 7. Enclose the structure from step 6 into the enclosure made in step 3. Use a strong glue such as "Crazy Glue" to bind the hemisphere arrangement against the enclosure to prevent accidental detonation which might result from vibration or mishandling. 8. To detonate the device, obtain a radio controlled (RC) servo mechanism, as found in RC model airplanes and cars. With a modicum of effort, a remote plunger can be made that will strike a detonator cap to effect a small explosion. These detonatior caps can be found in the electrical supply section of your local supermarket. We recommend the "Blast-O-Mactic" brand because they are no deposit-no return. 9. Now hide the completed device from the neighbors and children. The garage is not recommended because of high humidity and the extreme range of temperatures experienced there. Nuclear devices have been known to spontaneously detonate in these unstable conditions. The hall closet or under the kitchen sink will be perfectly suitable. 10. Now you are the proud owner of a working thermonuclear device! It is a great ice-breaker at parties, and in a pinch, anc be used for national defense. 3. THEORY OF OPERATION The device basically works when the detonated TNT compresses the Plutonium into a critical mass. The critical mass then produces a nuclear chain recation similar to the domino chain reaction (discussed in this column, "Dominos on the March", March, 1968). The chain reaction then promptly produces a big thermonuclear reaction. And there you have it, a 10 megaton explosion! 4. NEXT MONTH'S COLUMN In next month's column, we will learn how to clone your neighbor's wife in six easy steps. This project promises to be an exciting weekend full of fun and profit. Common kitchen utensils will be all you need. See you next month! 5. NOTES 1. Plutonium (PU), atomic number 94, is a radioactive metallic element formed by the decay of Neptunium and is similar in chemical structure to Uranium, Saturium, Jupiternium, and Marisum. 6. PREVIOUS MONTH'S COLUMNS 1. Let's Make Test Tube Babies! May, 1979 2. Let's Make a Solar System! June, 1979 3. Let's Make a Economic Recession! July, 1979 4. Let's Make an Anti-Gravity Machine! August, 1979 5. Let's Make Contact with an Alien Race! September, 1979 ==>/Black Powder\<== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ZBDD>>>Basic Black Powder<<3By Charles L. Hill 3 Fireworks News March '8933 33 address and send a 3306 Frances Ave., 3 S.R. Box 30 33 33 self adderssed stamped 3Endwell, NY 13760 3 Dingmans Ferry, PA 33 33 envelope asking for @DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDY 18328 $16.95 A year 33 33 a list and info on limited fireworks items (shipment avilible UPS). 33 @ADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDAY Typed By |\/| The | |ad Rutabega Our Topic this time invilves the preperation of some basic black powder which has a myriad of uses in our craft. It also provides the base for more simple theory. There exists a general relationship between the burning rate of a composition and ertin physical aspects of the composition, as well as the techniques used for incorporating it's ingredients. Let's examine a formulation calling for 76 grams of Potassium Nitrate or Saltpetre (KNO3), 15 grams of charcoal (C) and 10 Grams of sulfer (S). But.... each of these is in the form of a round ball. We could hold these together and try to ignite this mixture to no avail. We could break the balls down to pea sized proportions but something is wrong! There is no incorporation. On the other hand, if we reduce each ingredient to say 200 mesh and mix thoroughly and then apply flame, we will get a pleasing "whoosh" we all know and love. The key then would seem to be Particle Size. The smaller the particle size the more ingredients can be in contact with each other, and more importantly, the more Surface Area we have to work with. Now our simple theory can get more complicated since the topic of surface area can then lead into flame propagation, thermal transfer, and crystaline physics. Well, lets just conclude that the more surface area we have based on the reduction of particle size, a given mixture will burn or react faster. Okay back to Basic Black Powder. The Formula is well known: KNO3........75% C...........15% S...........10% If I wanted to make 150 grams of this mixture, how much of each ingredient would I need?... Answer, 112.4g KNO3, 22.5g C, 15g S. When prepering this mixture I weigh each component deperately. There are several ways to mix this composition and the quality of each comp is effected by each. I could simply screen KNO3 a few times through a 40 mesh screen and then screen the sulfer once or twice then I would combine all the ingreadients and screen the mixture four or five times until I have a uniform grey-black mixture. Depending on the inital mesh size of the KNO3,I may find this mix adequite as a base meal for fountians or gerbs. It may also be dampened and granulated through hardware cloth and used as polvorone or rough powder. I would try making some of this screened meal, ignite about 10g OUTDOORS in a PROPER AREA and note it's burning charicteristics. I can do some somple things to improve this mixture. Using the shaker mill I can reduce the particle size of the KNO3 to that of talcum powder. A simple mill can be made of a leingth of 2 inch cardboard morter tube. I can glue and nail a wooden plug in one end and use a tight fitting wooden plug for the other end. Loading loading the tube about a third fill of hardened lead balls. I fill the tube another third full of KNO3. Then taking out the days frustration on this poor device I shake the tar out of it until the oxidizer is pulverized. There comes a point when further shaking is futile. Practice will show when. Another thing I can do is to shake the C and S together and then screen it with the pulverized oxidizer. I DO NOT RECCOMEND shaknig and oxidiers with fuels in the mill. Since these shaker mills are so easy and cheap to construct, a number can be made for specific purposes. I would take the milled mixture and compare its burning charictersitics with the screened only comp. One should see a noticible differance. This simple milling has reduced the particle size, increased the surface area, and improved the performance of the comp. Shaking the Sulfer and Charcoal has also helped in making a more intimate mixture of the ingreadients.CLH That's it if you want to see more you can subscribe to THE AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS for $16.95 at the address in the beginning if this text file. here are some other catalogs etc. you might want Liqudation sale we were legislated out of buisness. complete line of fountians etc. SEASONAL MECHERANDISE Box 426 South Milwaukee WI 53172 send for sale catalog -------------------------------- PYROTECHNICS (a book) by G.W. Weingart 244 pages $10.00 Many more availble send $2.00 for sale catalog ALPHA PUBLICATIONS PO Box 92-JD Sharon Center, OH 44274 --------------------------------- Well there you go al you Piros out there look for more textfiles coming soon //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// // // // |\/| // // The | |ad Rutabega<<<<<<<<< // // // // // /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// ==>/Smoke Screens\<== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ by: Sour Apple An interestiong aspect of explosives is the extra ingredients which can be added to give the explosion characteristics it would not normally have. A somke bomb is like this, in sense that it is not only useful to create confusion and chaos, but also for smoking persons out of an enclosed area, as well as signaling. ______________________________________________________________________________ Formulas for the preparation of a black smoke screen: 1) magnesium powder 19 2) magnesium powder 20 hexachloroethane 60 hexachloroethane 60 naphthalene 21 naphthalene 20 3) hexachloroethane 55.8 4) black powder FFF 50 alpha naphol 14 potassium nitrate 10 athracene 4.6 coal tar 20 aluminum powder 9.3 powdered charcoal 15 smokless powder 14 paraffin 5 naphthalene 2.3 ______________________________________________________________________________ Formulas for the preparation of a white smoke screen: 1) potassium chlorate 44 2) zinc dust 28 sulfur flour 15 zinc oxide 22 zinc dust 40 hexachloroethane 50 sodium bicarbonate 1 3) zinc dust 66.67 hexachloroethane 33.33 ______________________________________________________________________________ Formulas for the preparation of a yellow smoke screen: 1) potassium chlorate 25 2) potassium chlorate 30 paranitraniline 50 naphthalene azodimethyl lactrose 25 aniline 50 powdered sugar 20 3) potassium chlorate 21.4 naphthalene 50 azodimethyl aniline 2.7 auramine 38 sodium bicarbonate 28.5 ______________________________________________________________________________ Formulas for the preparation of a green smoke screen: 1) potassium nitrate 20 red arsenic 20 sulfer flour 20 antimony sulfide 20 black powder FFF 20 ______________________________________________________________________________ Formulas for the preparation of a red smoke screen: 1) potassium chlorate 20 2) potassium chlorate 26 lactose 20 diethylaminorosindone paranitraniline red 60 48 powdered sugar 26 3) potassium chlorate 27.4 4) potassium methylaminoanthra- perchlorate 25 quinone 42.5 antimony sulfide 20 sodium bicarbonate 19.5 rhodamine red 50 sulfur flour 10.6 dextrin 5 ______________________________________________________________________________ I will NOT be held responsible by the actions of the people that try this stuff and I present this as information only. ==>/Fireworks\<== ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ HERE IS A LIST OF MAIL ORDER FIREWORKS SUPPLY. YOU CAN ALSO GET FUSES OF ALL TYPES FROM MANY OF THESE GOOD FOLKS. BE PREPARED TO SIGN A 'SWORN' STATEMNET THAT YOU ARE NOT UNDERAGE...NO BIG DEAL. ($ MEANS THE COST OF THE CATALOGUE!) BLUE ANGEL / POBOX 26-SOF / COLUMNIANA, OH 44408 ($2.00) EAGLE FIREWORKS / DEPT. 102 / POBOX 800 / CLACKAMAS, OR 97015 ($1.00) NEPTUNE FIREWORKS / POBOX 398 / DEPT G / DANIA, FL 33004 ($1.00) OLDE GLORY FIREWORKS / POBOX 2863 / RAPID CITY, SD 57709 1-800-843-8758 ACE FIREWORKS / POBOX 221 / DEPT F / CONNEAUT, OH 44030 ($1.00) MOUNTAIN STATES NOVELTY / POBOX 90007 / CASPER, WY 82609 / ($1.00) GREAT LAKES FIREWORKS / POBOX 5324 / CLEVELAND, OH 44883 ($0.50) SMOKE GRENADES: PHOENIX SYSTEMS / POBOX 3339-B / EVERGREEN, CO 80439 / 303-674-2653 YANKEE MFG. CO. / 59 CHASE STREET / BEVERLY, MA 01915 / 617-922-8262 ==>/Oil & Gas\<== If you want to really scare someone, get a salad dressing bottle (for humor) and put some saflower oil in it. Then put a TINY bit of gas on that heavy oil. Light it the normal way(like a gas bomb)and throw it at someone. When the gas lights, it will look deadly, but the saflower oil won't light, it will just turn black and start to smoke like nothing you have ever seen. :::::::::::::::::::::::Karl Marx. ==>/Jewish Lightning\<== THE BURNING OF A BUILDING IN ORDER TO COLLECT INSURANCE BENEFITS IS COMMONLY TERMED JEWISH LIGHTENING (NO OFFENSE TO ANYONE IS INTENDED). THE EASIEST (THOUGH NOT CHEAPEST) WAY TO TORCH YOUR OWN DOMICILE WITHOUT BEING DETECTED BY THE FIRE MARSHALL, IS TO USE A REMOTE DEVICE. FIRST YOU WILL NEED A SOUND DETECTION DEVICE, SUCH AS THE TYPE THEY USE FOR BURGLAR ALARMS. ALL THIS DEVICE NEED DO IS TURN ON AN ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE WHEN SOUND IS DETECTED. NEXT, OPEN THE BACK OF YOUR TELEVISION UP AND SCRAPE THE PROTECTIVE WAX OFF THE PICTURE TUBE. THIS SUCKER HEATS UP WHEN YOU HAVE YOUR TV ON, AND THE COATING PROTECTS THE REST OF THE SET FROM THE TUBE. NEXT MAKE A SMALL (VERY SMALL) HOLE IN ONE OF YOUR NATURAL GAS LINES (SO THERE IS A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS IN THE HOUSE). IF YOU DON'T HAVE GAS, LEAVE SOME NEWSPAPERS OR RAGS AROUND THE TV. NEXT HOOK THE TV UP TO THE SOUND DETECTOR AND TURN THE DETECTOR ON. NOW YOUR SET. ALL YOU NEED DO IS LEAVE YOUR HOUSE (MAKING SURE THE NEIGHBORS SEE YOU) AND CALL YOUR HOUSE NUMBER FROM A PHONE BOOTH. WHEN THE PHONE RINGS, IT WILL CAUSE THE DETECTOR TO TURN THE TV ON, HEAT UP THE TUBE AND IGNITE THE GAS. THE RESULT IS POOF!!!! NOTE: I CAN'T RECOMMEND OR CONDONE THIS PRACTICE DUE TO ITS DANGER TO HUMAN LIFE. THIS IS POSTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY AND I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT USERS OF THIS SYSTEM DO WITH THIS INFO... THE BARON ==>/ELECTRIC FUSE\<== Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it.Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single fla ==>/HIJACK A SCHOOL BUS\<== DONATED BY : THE LEPRECHAUN BEFORE I START, I WOULD JUST LIKE TO CLARIFY A FEW POINTS. FIRST, THIS SCHEME HAS ONLY BEEN TRIED ON THE BLUE JAY SERIES OF YELLOW BUSSES...I CANNOT GUARANTEE THAT IT WILL WORK ON OTHER TYPES OF SCHOOL BUSES. THE SECOND POINT THAT THIS SYSTEM RELIES ON THE FACT THAT OPENING THE EMERGENCY DOOR OF A SCHOOL BUS WILL SET OF AN ALARM. IN ORDER TO THWART THIS SCHEME, MANY BUS IVERS HAVE DISABLED THIS. BE SURE THHAT THEY HAVE NOT DONE SO BEFORE YOU START. THE FIRST STEP IN HIJACKING A SCHOOL BUS IS TO GET TO THE BUS YARD, UN- NOTICED ON THE BUS, AFTER EVERYONE ELSE HAS GOTTEN OFF. IN ORDER TO DO THIS, SLIP QUIETLY ONTO THE BUS, SNEAK BACK TO THE LAST SEAT, AND DUCK DOWN. DO NOT BE NOTICED!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! NEXT, WAIT UNTIL THE BUS GETS TO BUS YARD. WHEN, AND ONLY WHEN IT BRAKES, MAKE SURE THE BUS DRIVER IS LOOKING THE OTHER WAY, AND QUIETLY AND UP. WITH ONE SWIFT MOTION, OPEN THE EMERGENCY EXIT AND LEAP OUT. WITH LUCK, THE BUS DRIVER WILL NOT LOOK BACK UNTIL YOU ARE OUT OF SIGHT. THIS IS THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP. IF POSSIBLE, AND SOMEONE WHO IS WILLING TO LET YOU PRACTICE ON THERE SCHOOL BUS... WHEN YOU ARE OUT OF THE BUS, CROUCH DOWN AND WALK UNDER THE BUS TOWARD THE FONT. WHEN YOU GET TO THE FRONT, WAIT UNTIL THE BUS DRIVER GOES TO THE BACK, AND JUMPS OUT OF THE BUS LOOKING FOR YOU. IF HE DOES NOT DO SO, THROW SOMETHING THAT WILL ATTRACT HIS ATTENTION OUT FROM UNDER BUS, LIKE A SPARE TIRE (WHICH CAN BE HIDDEN ON YOUR PERSON). WHEN HE IS OUT OF THE BUS, QUICKLY CLIMB IN THE FRONT (IT IS VERY EASY TO PRY THE FRONT DOOR OPEN...) AND DRIVE AWAY AS FAST AS YOU CAN. YOU NOW OWN A SCHOOL BUS, HAVE PHUN! NOTE: THE ABOVE PROCEDURE RELIES ON THE FACT THAT THE AVERAGE SCHOOL BUS DRIVER HAS AN I.Q. LOWER THAT THE SCHOOL BUS NUMBER. IF THE DRIVERS ARE ON STRIKE, AND THE PRINCIPAL IS DRIVING YOUR BUS, DO IT! REMEMBER, PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE... > PROVIDED BY WILLY WONKA <<< ==>/THE CHEMIST'S CORNER\<== ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS.SOMEMAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE CONCENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS. I WOULD SUGGEST THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF CHEMISTRY, ESPECIALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFORMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INTERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS. ============================================================================== I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK) EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA. IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID. CARBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN THE "FIZZ". THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR SOMETHING, AND WHEN ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN. I SINCERELY DOUBT THAT IT WILL BLOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE. THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER, BAKING POWDER & WATER, CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS. EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE: A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC) A SMALL ZINC STRIP A SMALL COPPER STRIP JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE OTHER. YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY! JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER & ZINC STRIPS... EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOULD KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS.. EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH', AND VISA-VERSA? THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS. TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND PUT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM. THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE. SINCE THE CHLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE LARGE AMOUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!). FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH CHLORINE STAY TUNED.... EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE. QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE. IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START BURNING... EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH THAT ACID. TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC. YOU CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR.... LIGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*. ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER. THIS INVOLVES SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC CURRENT. TO DO THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE BOWL, TWO CARBON ELECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY), AND TABLE SALT. DISSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER. SUBMERGE THE TWO TEST TUBES IN THE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES IN SIDE THEM,WITH THE MOUTH OF THE TUBE AIMING DOWN. CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE ELECTRODES. THIS WILL WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE CARBON ELECTRODES... (THE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OFF AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROXIDE....). THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT INSTEAD. IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELECTRICITY. EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MOUTH WITH YOUR THUMB. KEEP IT INVERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED WITH TURPENTINE). SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE. THE HYDROGEN AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY AND A MOUNT OF EACH GAS). AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT REACT IF IT IS DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND. WHEN A LIGHT IS TURNED ON, ENOUGH ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT... EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A BATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER). MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF OXYGEN. IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF. TRY LIGHTING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE. THE OXYGEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME. EXPERIMENT WITH IT. THE OXYGEN WILL ALLOW THINGS TO BURN BETTER... EXP #8: ALCOHOL BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE. USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99% ALCOHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT. YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN ACOHOL, LIGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME SHOULD GO OUT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED. NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC. EXP #9: IODINE? TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE. TO SEPERATE THEM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A CANDLE. HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE (ABOUT 4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT. THE ALCOHOL SHOULD EVAPORATE, AND THE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON THE COLD METAL LID DIRECTLY ABOVE. IF THIS WORKS(I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN USE THE IODINE ALONG WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE (DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1). EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION! WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'? GET A CANDLE AND SOME FLOUR... LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND. TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE FLAME. THE ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN, WHICH THEY DO AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT. IN GRAIN ELEVATORS, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME LYCOPODIUM POWDER, DO. THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECTED. THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME >> MX148 40 mm grenade launcer << Manufacturer: Department of the United States Army Calibre: 40 mm Dimensions: Length 41.9 cm Barrel length 25.4 cm Weight: 1.4 kg Range: 400 m Sight: Articulated arm with adjust- able rear aperture and bost foresight Operation: Breech loader, manual Muzzle velocity: 74.5 m/sec Ammunition: Cased projectiles This is a low-weight, 40 mm grenade launcher for use in conjunction with the M16 and M16A1 rifles. It is manually loaded by pushing the pistol-grip and barrel assembly forward, and insertion a round into the exposed chamber. The weapon is then closed and manually cocked by pulling back on a cocking handle. The trigger extends back on the right-hand side to a position just forward and below the rifle trigger. The sight in an articulated adjustable rear aperture and post fore- sight combination, graduated for rangers out to 450 m. Though this weapon was used in small numbers during the Vietnam war it was never fully adopted and was subsequently superseded by the M203. >>>> in service in small numbers, but ((-obsolescent-)) written by: THE NAPALM BABY more text files to come in the WW /// SERIES HOW TO MAKE A WORKING LETTER-BOMB BY THE REBEL WARHEAD LETTER BOMBS ARE VERY SIMPLE TO MAKE, BUT THE DIFFICULT PART IS MAKING SURE IT WILL DETONATE PROPERLY, OR THAT IT IS NOT OBVIOUS THAT IT IS A BOMB. MIXTURES: ABOUT 75% ALUMINUM POWDER WITH 25% IRON POWDER IS BEST. THIS IS A LIGHT VERSION OF THERMITE, SINCE IT IS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (THE ENVELOPE, AS DESCRIBED BELOW A WAYS). MIX THE ABOVE WELL. THE IDEA IS THIS: IRON CAN BURN, AT A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE, BUT IT NEEDS A LITTLE HELP. THIS IS WHAT THE ALUMINUM IS FOR. ALUMINUM BURNS AT A RELATIVELY LOW TEMPERATURE, SO IT IS USED AS A CATALYST OF SORTS. MAGNESIUM IS USED TO FLASH-IGNITE THE ALUMINUM, WHICH THEN BURNS THE IRON, AT A SUITABLE TEMPERATURE. SINCE THIS IS GOING OFF IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE, IT WILL BURN MUCH HOTTER AND SLOWER AND WITH MORE VIOLENCE THAN A NORMAL MIX. I ADVISE YOU PLAY WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, LEARNING YOUR MIXTURE. NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF: GET AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE, THE TYPE THAT IS DOUBLE LAYERED. SEPERATE THE LAYERS. IN THE INNER LAYER GOES THE WONDERFUL MIXTURE, ONE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH. KEEP THIS SECTION SEPARATE, BUT IT MIGHT BE HANDLE TO TOP IT OFF WITH SOME MAGNESIUM. THE OUTER LAYER CAN BE EITHER MAGNESIUM, FOR A FLASH BOMB, OR POSSIBLY A MATERIAL OF YOUR OWN CHOICE. NOW FOR THE DIFFICULT PART! THE FUSE... WE CAN MAKE A FUSE FROM ANOTHER SET OF CHEMICALS: IODINE CRYSTALS, AND AMONIUM HYDROXIDE, IN LIQUID FORM. MIX THESE TOGETHER, IN ABOUT AND EQUAL AMOUNT, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO USE A HEAVY AMOUNT OF IODINE IF PRESSED FOR TIME. THESE FORM A NEW CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE, ABOUT AND INCH LONG. THESE ARE HIGHLY VOLATILE, AND I ADVISE KEEPING THEM PROTECTED. THEY HAVE ABOUT THE IMPACT POWER OF AN M-100 FOR A TEASPOON. I PUT THESE IN A PROTECTIVE CARD-BOARD LINING, AND PUT THEM AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE. RIG THIS SO IT PUTS PRESSURE ON THE CRYTALS WHEN THE PACKAGE IS OPENED, BUT NOT FROM JUST SQUEEZING THE ENVELOPE. THIS IS TRICKY, AND I CAN'T EXPLAIN IT HERE. SEAL THIS UP, AND YOU HAVE A WORKING LETTER BOMB. BY THE WAY, SINCE THE BULK OF LETTER BOMBS ARE EASILY RECOGNIZABLE, THEY RARELY MAKE IT PAST THE POST OFFICE. ***** I FROWN UPON THE USE OF LETTER BOMBS AS A MEANS OF GETTING EVEN BECAUSE YOU NEVER KNOW WHO IT IS GOING TO DETONATE AROUND, OR THAT IT WILL EVEN BE THEM. THERE ARE SIMPLER WAYS OF GETTING EVEN, SO TAKE ONE OF THEM. IT IS ALSO A FEDERAL OFFENCE TO MAKE AND SEND ONE. PROCEDE AT YOUR OWN RISK. ***** HOW TO AVOID LETTER BOMBS: SINCE YOU MADE IT THIS FAR INTO THE FILE, I WILL TELL YOU HOW TO AVOID BEING DETONATED WITH A LETTER BOMB YOU MAY HAVE HAD SENT TO YOU. 1) NEVER OPEN A LETTER BOMB THE WAY IT WANTS TO BE OPENED! THIS IS THE WAY OF POSSIBLY AVOIDING THE FUSE. IF IT IS SET TO DETONATE ON CONTACT WITH AIR, THEN THIS WILL NOT WORK. 2) DON'T SQUEEZE, BEND, OR ANYTHING! 3) IF IT LOOKS LIKE A BOMB, THEN DON'T EVEN TOUCH IT! THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO AVOID PROBLEMS! ==>/HOW TO MAKE M-80'S\<== This file deals with how to make M-80's or similair type small explos- ive charges that make LOUD noises. The hardest part with making M-80's is the powder. The kind of powder that you want is the silver type used in firecrackers. It is made of Potassium Perchlorate KCIO , Aluminium & Sulfur. You can take apart firecrackers...or, you can make it out of the above ingredients. Get each of these in as fine of powder as you can. Obtain a postage or any small scale and mix them BY WEIGHT in the folloing ratios. 1 pt. - Powdered sulfur 1 pt. - Powdered Aluminium 2 pts. - Potassium Perchlorate KCIO 4 DO NOT use potassium chlorate, it will explode violently when mixed with sulfur. Stir the powder well with a piece of wood in a plastic bowl. Next, you will need something to contain the powder in. Get some thick cardboard tubing with a diameter of 1/2 to 3/4" You can find tubing anywhere. I have found a gold mine where I work, I just grab the Cardboard tubes regis- ter receipt tape is wrapped around. The thicker the sides of the tube are, the better. The actual M-80 I have. (Not Home Made) is 1 1/2" long and has a diameter of 1/2". Third, you will need fuse, where I live, a sporting goods store sells it under the name to cannon fuse for 15 cents a foot, but it really should be Waterproof fuse. You can pull it out of any number of fireworks. If you have gotten all that, now you need end-plugs. I personally use one of those hot melt glue guns. Works great. You can use Elmers Glue-All but it takes a long time to dry. Or, you can get a piece of wood dowel that telescopes into your tube, cut 1/4" thick discs and smear Elmer's on them To Assemble: Put in one endplug, with whatever method you are using, let it dry, harden or whatever it has to do. Drill your fuse hole in the center of the tube. Put in the fuse and pour the powder in. Put in the other endplug. Glue or whatever and Viola, a M-80. Don't worry about pouring hot glue on the powder mixture, it won't ignite. I have never had a homemade M-80 I wasn't proud of. The powder mixture detailed above has some astonishing capabillity. Use the above well, and try not to hurt yourself (or anyone else.) unless you hate them that is... >Mace Substitute< 3 PARTS: Alchohol 1/2 PARTS: Iodine 1/2 PARTS: Salt Or: 3 PARTS: Alchohol 1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons) It's not actual mace, but it does a damn good job on the eyes... >CO2 Canister Bomb< Take a Co2 canister and cut the top almost off but leave a little to form a hinge. Let out the Co2 and insert a M80 into it. Insert fuse throught hole in top. Close the top by welding or epoxy glue.When ready to ignite just light... Pretty neat eh? >Unstable Explosives< Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia.Wait overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!! >Jug Bomb< Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it. Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner surface of the jug is coated. Then add a few drops of potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it. To blow it up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something. >Hindenberg Bomb< Needed: 1 Balloon 1 Bottle 1 Liquid Plumr 1 Piece Aluminum Foil 1 Length Fuse Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!! >Improvising Blach Powder< Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder. Material required: ----------------- potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.) Water, 3 cups heat source 2 buckets -- each 2 gallon capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.) Flat window screening, at least 1 ft. Square large wooden stick cloth, at least 2 ft. Square note: the above amounts will yield 2 ounds of black powder. However, only the ratios of the amounts of the ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much black powder, double all quantities used. Procedure: --------- 1) place alcohol in one of the buckets 2) place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved. 3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form. Caution: do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it may ignite. 4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously 5) let alcohol stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid. 6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen note: if granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6. 7) Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator , or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder. Caution: remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now ready for use. >FIREBOMBS< Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been {found whcih were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. >NAPALM< About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shreddedbar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat up much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler. >MATCH HEAD BOMB< Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from dhe TV. >FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB< A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. -=] Smoke Bomb [=- --- ----- ---- --- Mix: 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate Heat: over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container. Before it soldifies, put a few matches in for fuses. *One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick cloud of white smoke* -=] Generic bomb [=- --- ------- ---- --- 1) Aquire a glass container 2) Put in a few drops of gasoline 3) Cap the top 4) Now turn the condainer around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates 5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a snake bite kit) 6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object. *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE* >Electronic Terrorism< It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as the butthead laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.) Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of an effective note: "don't be such a dick, or the next one will take off your dick. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath. Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. myStep 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are: 1) 4 aa batteries 2) 1 9-volt battery 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack) 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80) 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-volt battery connector step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively. Step 3: take thebattery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wRore the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay. Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80). Your kit is now complete! Diagram: ZDDDDDDD~><~DDDDDDD? 3 (CONTACTS) 3 3 3 3 -3- (9 VOLT) 3 [2[ (BATTERY) 3 -3- 3 3 3 (COIL) 3 @DDDD~///////~DDDDDY ZDDDDDDDDDD? ZY ZY ZY @? ZY 3 (SWI~CH)~? 3 3 3 3 -3- (BATTERY) 3 111 ( PACK ) 3 -3- 3 IM; 3 3 :1: 3 @DD61GDDDY ~~~ @DY (SOLAR IGNITOR) That's it! Become your own little terrorist! ==>/How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin\<== CH2ONO2 ! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2 CHONO2 ----------> + ! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2 CH2ONO2 (How Nitro explodes--note that the by products are nothing but nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can blow off your hand in the right circumstances. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: To make Nitro: == ==== ====== Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously. NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a time.) I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as possible, of course) parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB 1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END. 2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR HAND OFF** 3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED. 4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT. **BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!! 5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!! ******IMPORTANT****** AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!! TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR IT TO GO OFF. SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME! Kitchen Improvised Platic Explosives RDX Agrajag The Prolonged This is the second in a series of articles dealing with the production of plastic explosives. This article will cover step by step (SXS?) instructions on how to make RDX, which is the main ingrediant in the rest of the plastic explosives I will cover. The information in this and all of the other articles dealing with the production of plastic explosives was orignally written by written by Tim Lewis in a book called,"Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives". I will give the address to send for this and many other books and the end of this article. THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS IF YOU WISH TO LIVE TILL YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY! Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in theirchronological progression as they were developed and standardized by the armedforces. All these explosives are cyclo nite or R.D.X. base with variousplastisizing agents used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the total weight of theplastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for camp stoves can be used but they end up being very explensive. To use the fuel bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS,SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed wi ll collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that'll run down the in side of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the ecplosive. Ofcourse the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigerous stirring should be maintained. If the temperature approches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing the vigerous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is gone and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T. To use,these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second! ZDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD? 3 COMPARISON OF DETONATION VELOCITIES 3 IMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM; 8600 : : 8500 : 1111111111 : 8400 : 1111111111 : 8300 : 1111111111 : 8200 : 1111111111 : 8100 : 1111111111 1111111111 : 8000 : 1111111111 1111111111 : 7900 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7800 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7700 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7600 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7500 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7400 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7300 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7200 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7100 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 7000 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 6900 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : 6800 : 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 : HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM< T.N.T R.D.X. "C" "C-2" "C-3" "C-4" Live long and prosper, Agrajag P.S. The information from above was obtained from a book, "Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives", by Tim Lewis and the Information Publishing Company. ==>/Plastique Explosive frm Aspirin\<== Written by: The PUNISHER AND Lich This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It's the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanx to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also wall cause the detonation of the picric acid. Next needed is aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure in this file with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH IT, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E P T T I N A N D A L U M I N U M ! ! ! ==>/THERMITE\<== THERMITE IS A COMPOUND THAT CAN BURN RIGHT THROUGH STEEL. IT BURNS HOT AND IS VERY DIFFICULT TO PUT OUT. INGREDIENTS: IRON OXIDE (RUST) ALUMINUM FILINGS A MAGNESIUM FUSE TO GET A HIGH QUALITY IRON OXIDE, TAKE A COMMON NAIL (NOT GALVINIZED) AND ATTACH IT TO THE POSSITIVE SIDE OF A DC POWER SUPPLY (A USED CAR BATTERY OR A TRAI TRANSFORMER IS PERFICT) HANG THIS NAIL INTO A GLASS OF WATER AND ATTACH ANOTHER WIRE TO THE NEGITIVE SIDE OF THE DC POWER AND HANG IT INTO THE WATER, THEN ADD ABOUT A TEASPOON OF TABLE SALT AND LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNIG YOU WILL HAVE A LOT OF RUST IN THE WATER; NOW DISCONNECT THE DC POWER AND FILTER THE WATER AND SAVE THE RUST. HEAT IT IN A IRON SKILLET UNTIL IT IS DRY AND TURNS A CONSISTANT SHADE OF BRIGHT RED. THEN YOU NEED A SUPPLY A ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN GET THESE BY EITHER FILING A JAR OF ALUMINUM BY YOURSELF, OR BUYING ALUMINUM FILINGS AT THE HARDWARE STORE. IN ANY EVENT, MAKE SURE THEY ARE FINE, AT LEAST 93% PURE. NOW MIX THEM TOGETHER IN THIS RATIO: 8 GRAMS OF RUST 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS YOU HAVE JUST MADE THERMITE!! THIS IS WHERE THE MAGNESIUM COMES IN. PUT A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON (AVALIBLE AT HARDWARE STORES, OR A CHEMICAL SUPPLY STORE) INTO THE PILE OF THEMITE SO THAT IT LOOKS LIKE A FUSE LIKE A FUSE STICKING OUT. LIGHT THE FUSE WITH A PROPANE BLOW TORCH AND STAND BACK. I WOULD SUGGEST A LONG WAY BACK. WHEN THE MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE IT WILL IGNITE AND BURN REAL GOOD. REMEMBER THIS STUFF CAN BURN RIGHT THROUGH HIGH GRADE CARBON STEEL SO BE CARFUL. THE THING YOU ARE BURNIG WILL BE EXTREAMLY HOT SO LET IT COOL OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -------------- THE SPY ---------------- [[ [[ [[[[ [[[[ 1[[[ [[[ [[ 1[[ [[11[[ 1[[[[[[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[1[1[[ [[[[ 11[[[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[1 1[[ 1111 [[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 1[[ 11[[[[ 11[[[[ 11 11 1111 1111 by: Anonymous Caller (Retired) All information contained in this file is purely for academic study. I am not responsible for any injuries/damages arising from the use of this information. Good luck. FLASH POWDER. Is a chemical mixture that burns extremely fast. The mixture burns so fast that it appears to burn instantly, producing a bright flash of light. Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than 4 ounces even when it is not contained. In very small amounts flash powder will produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of just a few layers of paper. Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper. Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate, Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorateassium Permanganate, and any combination of the above. All the chlorates are friction and impact sensitive, and also the Permanganate. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the Chlorates. All the chemicals should be crushdd ilto a very fine powder, about 400 mil. or smaller. 400 mil. is about like common kitchen type flour. Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical size of 400 mil. for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% is larger than 400 mil. There are other aluminum powders that are equal to or bett%r than Black German Aluminum. Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The partical size is 70% 400 mil. the other 30% is larger than 400 mil. FLASH POWDER FORMULAS [1] This formula is one of the best. It produces a very very extremely loud explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture absorbent. Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but then it becomes very sensitive to friction and ilpact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion equal to a stick of dynamite. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder (98% -400) 1 oz. [2] This formula produces an extremely loud explosion almost as good as #1. This is what almost all M-80s, firecrackers, etc. are made with Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [3] This formula is equal to #2 and is not sensitive to friction or impact. Bariue Peroxide 9 oz. 50%/50% magnesium/aluminum powder (98% -200 mil) 1 oz. [4] This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash. This is what used to be used for the photo flash for the old box type cameras about 100 years ago. Barium Nitrate 3 oz. Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 4 oz. [5] This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction sensitive. It produces a very, very loud explosion. Potassium perhlorate contains 46.1914 percent oxygen. Almost equal to #2. Sulfur added to increase quanity of powder without loosing too much power. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [5] Ths formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moisture absorbent and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate Contains 45.0937 percent oxygen. Produces a very, very loud explosion. Sodium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz. [7] This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction and impact and could explode during t`e construction o& any exxlosive device. Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664 percent oxygen. This formula produces an explosion almost equal to #5 and #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps. Potassium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. [8] This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction, and static electricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous. Will ignite even when wet. Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz. Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz. Sulfur .3 oz. Calcium Carbonate .3 oz. [9] This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly friction and impact sensitive. Postassium Permanganate contains 40.4691 percent oxygen. This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion. Potassium Permanganate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. [10] This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube. A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strong container. It is impact and friction sensitive. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. [11] No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 6 oz. Antimony Sulfide 3 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. [12] This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and friction sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper tube. Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. 13. No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Gallic acid 2.2 oz. Red gum 0.3 oz. CAUTION ------- The mixture of any Fhlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to friction and percussion and explodes with great violence. Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate explosives since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances are brought into contact, explodes. When mixing Chlorates with Sulfur, crush all the chemicals seperately. Then place all the chemicals in a bag to be mixed. Hang the bag from the ceiling, pole or a tree limb. A long pole is then attached to the bottom of the bag. The long pole is inserted through a wall and the operator stands behind the wall for safety. The operator can then shake the bag safely. 4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as a stick of dynamite. One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite. 8 ounces of powder will make 100 M-80's if each contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon are almost as loud but do not have quite the destructive force as the ones with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. CHEMICALS --------- Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores, lumber yards, plumbing supply, cement companys and many other stores. Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are made of about 90% sodium chlorate. O2 solid pellets are used in small workshop torches. Potassium Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold at farmers co-op stores. Sulfur. Sold by farmerq co-op, drug stores, and lawn and garden centers Aluminum powder can be found in radiator stop leak. Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing plants. Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores. Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book for water treatment equipment and supplies. Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers' co-op or lawn and garden center. Red Posphorus. The white tip on wooden matches contains red phosphorus. Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies, they will have almost all of the chemicals you need in large quanities. If you intend to make M-80's I strongly reccomend sending a SASE to this company asking for their catalog. FULL AUTO P.O. Box 1881 Murfreesboro, TN 37133 Military Black Powder --------------------- No. 1 No. 2 Pot. Nitrate.............. 74.0 ---- Sod. Nitrate.............. ---- 71.0 Charcoal, powdered........ 15.6 16.5 Sulfur.................... 10.4 12.5 The nitrate and other materials are ground and sieved separately. They are then dampened and mixed carefully, to evaporate moisture. Great caution must be used to prevent explosion. Black Gunpowder --------------- No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 Charcoal JAN-C-178A........ 15.6 ---- 16.0 Semibituminous coal........ ---- 14.0 ---- Sulfur JAN-S-487........... 10.4 16.0 12.0 Pot. nitrate MIL-P-156B.... 74.0 70.0 ---- Sodium nitrate MIL-S-322B.. ---- ---- 72.0 Low Sensitivity Blasting Explosive(U.S. Patent 2,860,041) --------------------------------------------------------- Ammonium Nitrate....... 51.8 Sodium Nitrate......... 16.1 Aluminum Powder........ 2.7 Sodium CMC............. 1.0 Pecan Meal............. 1.0 Mineral Oil............ 0.4 Zinc Oxide............. 0.3 Nitrostarch(20% Moisture).. 33.4 Railroad Torpedo ---------------- Potassium......... 40 Sulfur............ 16 Sand (60-mesh).... 37 Binder............ 5 Calcium carbonate. 2 -=*> SMOKE BOMBS <*=- White Military Smoke(U.S. Patent 2,939,779) ------------------------------------------- Hexachloroethane...... 30-45 Zinc Oxide............ 30-45 Ammonium Perchlorate.. 14-25 Polyvinyl Acetate..... 2-7.5 Smoke Mixture(U.S. Patent 2,842,502) ------------------------------------ Sulfamic Acid......... 50-80 Potassium Chlorate.... 50-20 Yellow Smoke(German Patent 918,196) ----------------------------------- Potassium Chlorate...... 18 Lactose................. 7 Pyroxylin, Powdered..... 11 Sodium Bicarbonate...... 14 Sudan Yellow............ 50 Projectile Tracer Smoke(U.S. Patent 2,823,105) ---------------------------------------------- Strontium Oxide......... 70 Calcium Resinate........ 10 1-Methylaminoanthra- quinone........ 15 Magnesium Powder........ 5 Use 5 to 80 g. per projectile. Produces a red smoke. For black smokes replace 1-methylaminoanthraquinone by anthracene and magnesium powder by catechol. Bullet Tracer(U.S. Patent 2,899,291) ------------------------------------ Magnesium............... 31.8 Strontium Nitrate....... 30.9 Strontium Tartrate...... 27.3 Hexachlorobenzene....... 4.6 Charcoal................ 0.9 Stearic Acid............ 4.5 -=*> FLARES <*=- Improved Magnesium Flare(U.S. Patent 2,968,542) ----------------------------------------------- Magnesium Powder........ 50.0 Sodium Nitrate.......... 42.7 Polyvinyl Acetate....... 4.5 Magnesium Oxide......... 2.8 Underwater Flare ---------------- Linseed oil............. 8 Manganese dioxide....... 1 Magnesium, powdered..... 16 Aluminum, powdered...... 12 Barium sulfate.......... 40 Barium nitrate.......... 32 Red Signal Flare ---------------- No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 Magnesium powder........ 21.0 17.5 30.0 Strontium nitrate....... 45.0 45.0 42.0 Potassium perchlorate... 15.0 25.0 9.0 Hexachlorobenzene....... 12.0 ---- ---- Polyvinylchloride....... ---- 5.0 12.0 Gilsonite............... 7.0 7.5 ---- "Laminac"............... ---- ---- 7.0 Signal Flare(Swedish Patent 130,801) ------------------------------------ Strontium Nitrate....... 57 Magnesium Powder........ 34 Polyvinyl Chloride...... 3 Dibutyl Phthalete....... 6 This lights easily in the cold and is explosion proof. -=*> IGNITERS AND DETONATORS <*=- Non-Corrosive Ammunition Primer(French Patent 1,184,312) -------------------------------------------------------- Lead Azide.............. 35 Thallium Nitrate........ 35 Caesium Nitrate......... 20 Antimony Pentasulfide.......... 10 Electric Detonator Delay(U.S. Patent 2,749,226) ----------------------------------------------- Red Lead................ 90-95 Silicon*................ 9-5 * Not less than 90% less than 5 microns and all of it less than 20 microns. Solid Rocket Fuel Igniter(U.S. Patent 2,849,300) ------------------------------------------------ Ammonium Nitrate........ 40-96 Carbon................. 2-40 Potassium Dichromate.... 2-40 Nonluminous Igniter for Projectiles(U.S. Patent 2,716,599) ---------------------------------------------------------- Bismuth Oxide........... 45-85 Manganese............... 15-55 Stearic Acid............ 10 Graphite................ 10 Strike-Anywhere Match Tip and Base Compositions ----------------------------------------------- Tip Base Animal glue....................... 11.0 12.0 Starch............................ 4.0 5.0 Paraffin wax...................... ---- 2.0 Potassium chlorate................ 32.0 37.0 Phosphorus sesquisulfide.......... 10.0 3.0 Sulfur............................ ---- 6.0 Rosin............................. 4.0 6.0 Dammar gum........................ ---- 3.0 Infusorial earth.................. ---- 3.0 Powdered glass and other filler... 33.0 21.5 Potassium dichromate.............. ---- 0.5 Zinc oxide........................ 6.0 1.0 -=*> OTHER STUFF <*=- Military Incendiary(U.S. Patent 2,951,752) ------------------------------------------ Zirconium(20-60 Mesh)........... <75 Magnesium-Aluminum Alloy(1:1)... 12.5-47.5 Potassium Perchlorate........... 12.5-47.5 Sparklers --------- No. 1 No. 2 Potassium perchlorate.. 60.0 ---- Barium nitrate......... ---- 50.0 Aluminum, dark pyro.... 30.0 8.0 Dextrin................ 10.0 10.0 Steel Filings.......... ---- 30.0 Charcoal fine.......... ---- 0.5 Neutralizer............ ---- 1.5 The outside af the composition is coated with magnesium-aluminum alloy grit. Oxygen Candle ------------- No. 1 Sodium chlorate.......... 92 Barium peroxide.......... 4 Steel wool grade 2 or 00. 4 No. 2 Lithium perchlorate...... 84.82 Lithium peroxide......... 4.24 Manganese metal powder... 10.94 POCKET PAIN GENERATOR FROM INFORMATION UNLIMITED This circuit produces a sound similar too that of fingers being scratched on a chalk board. It drives people crazy when that happens for a second, think about that sound for a minute! It can make most people, especially women and children, extremely irritable, and even nauseous. It works better on animals than it does on humans. This can easily be fit in a box about 4.5" X 2.5" X 1" plastic project box. This operates at 16-21 Khz. To test turn r1 all the way to the low end, and measure the amps across the leads of s1; it should be about 250 mA. Now go all the way to the other end and do the same; the amps should read 350 mA, and you should here a piercing sound in your ears. |-o--o---------o---r4--------| | | | | | + |->r1 | | c | | | 1 r o----- | | 2 | | | /// | _U|____|__ | | [ 4 8 ] | |---------o--------------| o------[7 ] | | | | | [ 3]-------r5---|/q1 \ || t1 l r [ I1 ] | |\ / || 1 3 [ ] | | \ || /---x | | [ ] | | / || \ t o-o----[6 5]-| | | \ || / r | |----[2 ] | | | / || \---x 1 + [_____1____] | | | | | c | c | o----c4+--o--------------| 2 | 3 | | | | | | | /// | o------------o------| |------------------| | | /// switch | battery | /// key === -,| - connections o - connection point /// - ground [__] - IC chip 555 timer r1 - 2k trim pot r2,r3- 2.2k 1/4 watt resistor r4 - 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistor r5 - 1k 1/4 watt resistor +c1 - 100 uF/25 volt electrolytic capacitor c2 - .01 uF/50 volt poly cap c3 - .01 uF/50 volt disc cap +c4 - 1 uF/50 volt electrolytic cap |/q1 - D4OD5 npn power tab transistor |\ - NOTE: emitter is connected to c4(I couldn't draw the arrow) t1 - 1k 8 ohm transformer - remove the high impedence(1000 ohm leads) l1 - 2 1mH inductors in parrallel tr1 - piezo driver #1023 s1 - push button switch b1 - 9 volt transistor battery ==>/Amatol #2\<== another reliable explosive brought to you by X. ingrediants powdered aluminum (as very fine as possible) ground charcoal (not the trash you put on your grill, take alot of wood shavings & wrap them in 4 or 5 layers of aluminum foil. next time you grill or clean the oven, leave that in there. when it cools grind to a fine powder) ammonium nitrate (take apart blue ice, its the clear beads, grind as usual) use 72% ammonium nitrate 3 % charcoal 25% aluminum powder this is a very safe explosive, easy to make & very very powerful. to set this off, put the mix in a pipe bomb & add 1/2 cup of gunpowder on top. this needs alot of heat to set off and gunpowder works fine. (not homemade gunpowder) ammonium nitrate decomposes into gas if heated, & the aluminum powder adds a large amount of heat. when you heat a gas it expands, so it makes the resulting gas take up far more room. like atleast a several fold increase in destruction. ==>/Potosasium Chlorate\<== Potosasium chlorate, if heated decomposes non violently into a gas. no big deal. however hit it with any power and it goes off extremely violently example, 1/2 gram threw a 2 kilo weight 5 feet in the air. imagine say a few ounces or even a pound. this stuff is extremely safe, just dont cook it or attempt to grind it up. Practical applications of potasasium chlorate.(for death and destruction) tape a ziplock bag on one or more of someones tires. toss small bags at cars from a bridge, with a few rocks in each bag. leave a package underneath someones doormat. . . . ==>/Exhaust Pipe Flamethrower\<== Needed: Wire, Switch, Spark Plug. Drill a hole in your car's exhaust pipe in order to screw in the spark plug. Next, connect the wire to the spark plug. This wire goes from the plug to the battery to the switch. When you flip on the switch, the spark plug sparks, igniting the gases and stuff coming out the exhaust pipe. Works great to ward off those darn tailgaters. ==>/Anti Personel Bomb\<== the bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. after first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. the delay should give you three to five minutes. it will then have a shattering effect on passersby. it is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. but if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast! !! !! !! <- chemical ingiter --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! <- big firecracker ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- nuts & bolts ! / ! ! ! --------- INCENDIARY BOTTLE IS SELFIGNITING ON TARGET IMPACT. _______________________________________ |MATERIALS HOW USED SOURCE | |---------|---------------|-------------| |SULPHURIC| BATTERY | CAR | | ACID | MATERIAL | INDUSTRIAL | | | PROCESSING | PLANTS | | | | | | GASOLINE| MOTOR FUEL |GAS STATION | | | | OR MOTOR | | | | VEHICLE | | | | | |POTASSIUM| MEDICINE | DRUG STORE | |CHLORATE | | | | | | | | SUGAR |SWEETENING | FOOD STORE | | | FOODS | | |_________|_______________|_____________| GLASS BOTTLE WITH STOPPER (ROUGHLY 1QUART SIZE) SMALL BOTTLE OR JAR WITH LID RAG OR ABSORBANT PAPER (PAPER TOWELS,NEWPAPER) STRING OR RUBBER BANDS PROCEDURE: --------- 1) SULPHURIC ACID MUST BE CONCENTRATED.IF BATTERY ACID OR OTHER DILUTE ACID IS USED, CONCENTRATE IT BY BOILING UNTIL DENSE WHITE FUMES ARE GIVEN OFF. CONTAINER USED SHOULD BE OF ENAMELWARE OR OVEN GLASS. CAUTION: SULPHURIC ACID WILL BURN SKIN AND DESTROY CLOTHING. IF ANY IS SPILLED, WASH IT AWAY WITH A LARGE QUANTITY OF WATER. FUMES ARE ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD NOT BE INHALED. 2) REMOVE THE ACID FROM HEAT AND ALLOW TO COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE. 3) POUR GASOLINE INTO THE LARGE (1 QUART) BOTTLE UNTIL IT IS APPROXIMATELY 2/3 FULL 4) ADD CONCENTRATED SULPHURIC ACID TO GASOLINE SLOWLY UNTIL THE BOTTLE IS FILLED TO WITHIN 1" TO 2" FROM TOP. PLACE THE STOPPER ON THE BOTTLE. 5) WASH THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOTTLE THOROUGHLY WITH CLEAR WATER. CAUTION: IF THIS IS *NOT* DONE, THE FIRE BOTTLE MAY BE DANGEROUS TO HANDLE DURING USE. 6) WRAP A CLEAN CLOTH OR SEVERAL SHEETS OF ABSORBENT PAPER AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOTTLE. TIE WITH STRING OR FASTEN WITH RUBBER BANDS. 7) DISSOLVE 1/2 CUP OF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND 1/2 CUP OF SUGAR IN ONE CUP OF BOILING WATER. 8) ALLOW THE SOLUTION TO COOL, POUR INTO THE SMALL BOTTLE AND CAP TIGHLY. THE COOLED SOLUTION SHOULD BE APPROX. 2/3 CRYSTALS AND 1/3 LIQUID. IF THERE IS MORE LIQUID THAN THIS, POUR OFF EXCESS BEFORE USING. CAUTION: STORE THIS BOTTLE SEPARATELY FROM THE OTHER BOTTLE HOW TO USE: ---------- 1) SHAKE THE SMALL BOTTLE TO MIX CONTENTS AND POUR ONTO THE CLOTH OR PAPER AROUND THE LARGE BOTTLE. BOTTLE CAN BE USED WET OR AFTER SOLUTION HAS DRIED. HOWEVER, WHEN DRY, THE SUGAR - POTASSIUM CHLORATE MIXTURE IS VERY SENSITIVE TO SPARK OR FLAME AND SHOULD BE HANDLED ACCORDINGLY. 2) THROW OR LAUNCH THE BOTTLE. WHEN THE BOTTLE BREAKS AGAINST A HARD SURFACE (TARGET) THE FUEL WILL IGNITE. ==>/Chlorine Gas Bomb\<== 1. DRY two liter bottle 2. Measuring cup 3. Chlorox bleach 4. Ammonia 5. Funnel 6. (Optional) gas mask Procedure: 1. Put the funnel in the two liter bottle. 2. Pour in one-half cup of Chlorox. 3. Pour in one-half cup of ammonia. 4. Pull out the funnel FAST, screw cap on lightly on and THROW FAR!!!! For all of you that scientificly, what happens is enough chlorine gas accumilates that it eventually blows the cap off. -[=NOTE=]- Chlorine gas causes leumonia which is phneumonia of the lungs. It is very painful as well as fatal so don't fuck with it too much. And make sure that your dog isn't around when you throw it and trys to go get it. ==>/Burning Hydorgen Bomb\<== Materials: A bottle, hydrogen gas, gunpowder, paper, cap to bottle, fuse. (an electric fuse works better) Construction: Fill the bottle with hydrogen, and then put the paper in as a seal just before the bottle gets wider. Now put the gunpowder on top of the paper, and stick your fuse in the gunpowder. Put the cap on, running the fuse under it, and it's done. When the gunpowder goes off, it will light the hydrogen, whitch should give you a nice explosion. Diagram: ___ (|#|) /|#| / |#| / |#| /---\ / \ / \ | | | | | | | | |_______| _ ( ) = Cap, # = Gunpowder, - = paper seal, = hydrogen, / = fuse Formula by :The Grey Ghost Typed by : THE DRAGON ==>/Styro-Napalm\<== Take 3 styrofoam cups, shred them and put them into a beer bottle. fill the bottle with gasoline, cap it and shake. it will form a goey mix which sticks to everything. definite improvement over normal molotav cocktails. also do not make molotovs the way you see them on tv. add a stem to attach the gas soaked rag to, because otherwise the bottle may well explode from the heat of the rag. nasty, blowing up in your hand. ==>/Toluene\<== toluene. commercial cleaner simular to acetone, but cheap and highly available. leave a large container in a closed environment where there is a lit candle, or else there will be sparks of one sort or another. toluene evaporates very quickly and forms a very explosive gas. example, in a school, a teacher left a large jar open on the 4th floor of a building. a while later a teacher on the 1st floor flipped a switch. the 4th floor was blown off the building and the rest of the building was condemmed. another way to use this, is if someone is tossing molotovs at you, give them a few bottles of this, unlit. next time they light a bottle, thats the end of their song. ==>/Uses For Nitrogen Tri-Iodide\<== Chicken wire steel can or peanut butter jar iodine crystals (buy at chem supply house) strong ammonia "" put as much chicken wire into the can as possible. then add the iodine and enough ammonia to disolve most of the iodine. put a lid on your device, making sure not to let any of the solution drip over the edge of the can. go to your site and take off the lid. then DUMP out the solution, while keeping the wire in the can. set it down and run like hell for a few hundred yards. you'll have a can full of ammonium triodide crystals. the chicken wire will give the crystals alot of surface area to dry on. this way, when the can goes off, it will be full of dry highly explosive crystals. ==>/More Uses\<== for starters ammonium tri iodide crystals & ways to use them. ingrediants iodine crystals ammonium hydroxide, the highest molar you can get (say 60-80 max) add enough ammonium hydroxide to the iodine crystals to cause the mixture to turn brown. mixture done. where to buy the above chemicals for about 7-10 bucks cosco chemical supply, 900 lincoln street & 9th near the 16th street mall. . more destructive ways to use this stuff. ==>/More Uses\<== make a standard pipe bomb, fill it with the mixture and tape a paper towel over the hole you would normally use for a fuse.the paper towel is to keep the solid part from spashing out. this will take a long time to dry, but it does wonders wired to the underneath of someones car. a baby food jar of this mix would be enough to obliterate a car beyond recognition. other 'destructive acts' with this mix. leave a jar of it in a garbage can. fragmentation bomb. do open the jar. leave a jar in the ceiling pannels of your school or whatever. your school will freak when all the walls for about ten yards are gone. -X Phaser Burning Device/Portable 3000 Volt, 4 mA DC supply Typed by The Mad Bomber From Information Unlimited For Networks Unlimited (303) 296-2996 This device will produce up to 4000 volts of continuous DC current at 3-5 mA. It is capable of burning damp paper or living tissue. You can built it to be about the size of a flashlight. The charge comes from two electrodes protrudin out the end, which can be sharpened to penetrate skin. BE VERY, VERY CAREFULL!!!!!!!! Schematic ========= o------------o | | NE1 | | | R3 | | | o-o-------C2-o--C4---o--C6---o--C8---o | / \ / \ / \ / \ | D3^ vD4 ^D5 vD6 ^D7 vD8 ^D9 vD10 | / \ / \ / \ / \ | o--C3---o--C5---o--C7---o--C9---o-->PLUS OUT | | A/\/\/\B----------------------------------2NEG OUT ================================ E\/\/G---o--F\/\/H--o C\/\/D--o | | | | | | o--R1--o---|--o | c\|-o---o | | | | e/| | o-|-o R2-|/c | | ^ | | | | |\e | | D S1| C1 ^ | | | 1 | | | D2 | | | | + | | | | | | | B1| | | | | | | | | | | | | o---o-o-|-o------o----o | | | | /// o-----------------------o Key === -,| - wires /,\ - wires o - connection \/\/ - transformer ==== - transformer /// - ground ^,v - indicates polarity + - indicates positive e\|- - transistor 1 & 2 c/| (e = emmiter,c = collector, |- = base) Parts list ========== R1 - 2.2k 1/4 watt resistor R2 - 220 ohm 1 watt resistor R3 - 390k 1/4 watt resistor C1 - 10 uF/25 V elect C2-9 - .1 uF/400 V paper OR .01 uF/1600 V discs TE1,2 - Terminal lugs or use desired electrodes contacts Q1,2 - D4OD5 npn power transistor D1,2 - 1N4002 diodes 100 V D3-10 - 1N4007 diodes 1000 V S1 - push button switch NE1 - neon lamp NE51 with leads T1 - Type 1 400 volt transformer B1 - 9(3000 volts) or 12(4000 volts) volt Battery(rechargable suggested) Construction ============ 1. Assemble component onto a perfboard. All parts will fit comfortably on a piece 1 1/2" X 4". Watch polarity of Q1, Q2, C1, and all diodes. Also be sure to place the battery in a convenient place for easy removal. Use the component leads whenever possible. 2. When everything is connected and working properly, wrap the assembly board in a thin cylindrical sheet of plastic and scotch tape it. 3. Put it in a container of your liking. ==>/More Fun Stuff for Terrorists\<== Carbide Bomb This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball! Portable Grenade Launcher If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminim go all over the place!! Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower For thiS one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tailpipeby drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!! By: Shadowspawn House Hold equivalants ----- ---- ----------- Name Equivalant ---- ---------- acetic acid.....................vinegar aluminum oxide..................alumia aluminum potassium sulfate......alum aluminum sulfate................alum ammonium hydroxide..............ammonia carbon carbonate................chalk carbon tetrachloride............cleaning fluid calcium hypochloride............bleaching powder calcium oxide...................lime calcium sulfate.................plaster of paris carbonic acid...................seltzer ethylene dichloride.............dutch fluid ferric oxide....................iron rust glucose.........................corn syrup graphite........................pencil lead hydrochloric acid...............muriatic acid hydrogen peroxide...............peroxide lead acetate....................sugar of lead lead tetrooxide.................red lead magesium silicate...............talc magesium sulfate................Epsom salts naphthalene.....................mothballs phenol..........................carbolic acid potassium bicarbonate...........cream of tarter potassium chromium sulfate......chrome alum potassium nitrate...............saltpeter sodium dioxide..................sand sodium bicarbonate..............baking soda sodium borate...................borax sodium carbonate................washing soda sodium choride..................salt sodium hydroxide................lye sodium silicate.................water glass sodium sulfate..................glaubers' salt sodium thiosulfate..............photographers hypo sulferic acid...................battery acid sucrose.........................cane sugar zinc choride....................tinner's fluid ------------ -------------- ==>/Smoke Bomb\<== Mix: 4 parts sugar 6 parts potassium nitrate Heat: over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into container. Before it soldifies, put a few matches in for fuses. *One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a thick cloud of white smoke* ==>/More Equivelents\<== Chemical Substance ---------------------------- ------------- Acetic acid Vinegar Acetylslicylic acid Asprin Aluminum hydroxide Deodorant,Antacid Aluminum oxide Alumia Aluminium potassium sulfate Alum Aluminum sulfate Alum Ammonium hydroxide Ammonia Ascorbic acid Citrus fruit juice Carbon carbonate Chalk Calcium hydroxide Mortar,Plaster Calcium hypochloride Bleaching powder Calcium oxide Lime Calcium sulfate Plaster of paris Carbonic acid Seltzer Carbon tetrachloride Cleaning fluid Ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid Ferric oxide Iron rust Glucose Corn syrup Graphite Pencil lead Hydrochloric acid Muriatic acid Hydrogen peroxide Peroxide Latic acid Sour milk Lead acetete Sugar of lead Lead tetrooxide Red lead Malic acid Apples Magnesium hydroxide Laxative Magnesium silicate Talc Magnesium sulfate Epsom salts Naphthalene Mothballs Oxalic acid Spinach Phenol Carbolic acid Potassium bicarbonate Cream of tartar Potassium chromium sulfate Chrome alum Potassium nitrate Saltpeter Sodium dioxide Sand Sodium bicarbonate Baking soda Sodium borate Borax Sodium carbonate Washing soda Sodium chloride Salt Sodium hydroxide Lye,Drain cleaner Sodium silicate Water glass Sodium sulfate Glauber's salt Sodium thiosulfate Phtographers's hypo Sulferic acid Battery acid Sucrose Cane sugar Zinc chloride Tinner's fluid How to Make M80's: The hardest part with making M-80's is the powder. The kind of powder that you want is the silver type used in firecrackers. It is made of Potassium Perchlorate KCIO , Aluminium & Sulfur. 4 You can take apart firecrackers (slow and time consuming)...or, you can make it out of the above ingredients (fast, AND FUN). Get each of these in as fine of powder as you can. Obtain a postage or any small scale and mix them BY WEIGHT in the folloing ratios. 1 part - Powdered sulfur 1 part - Powdered Aluminium 2 parts - Potassium Perchlorate KCIO 4 I have known people to make M-80's with Potassium Nitrate instead of Potassium Perchlorate before. It works, but certainly not as well. Stir the powder well with a piece of wood in a plastic or glass bowl (as long as it is non-sparking). Next, you will need something to contain the powder in. Get some thick cardboard tubing with a diameter of 1/2 to 3/4" You can find tubing anywhere. I have found a gold mine at stores, I just grab the Cardboard tubes register receipt tape is wrapped around. The thicker the sides of the tube are, the better. The actual M-80 I have seen. (Not Home Made) is 1 1/2" long and has a diameter of 1/2". Third, you will need fuse. Go to some sporting goods store and ask for 'cannon fuse'. They usually carry it under that name. If at all possible, get it waterproof (more on that later).Or if you are the cheap type you can always pull it out of some firecrackers! Now all you need is something for the ends. You can cuts wooden discs the same diameter as your tubing or you can do what I do and use a good old hot glue gun to seal the ends (don't worry about the hot glue igniting the powder, it won't) To Assemble: Put one endplug into one end of the tubing, with whatever method you are using (again, hot glue is best), let it dry, harden or whatever it has to do. Drill your fuse hole in the center of the tube. Put in the fuse and pour the powder. -/\-/*\-/\-/*\-/\- The Third Cartel -\/-\*/-\/-\*/-\/- Presents: Manuscript I Pressure Devices -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- June, 1988 Introduction: The purpose of this manuscript is to summarize various types of ------------- bombs that are activated by internal gas pressure. Reliability can be expected if the instructions are closely followed and common sense is used. Hydrogen Pressure Device: ========================= Materials Needed: Bottle or jar, acid, aluminum foil, cloth [optional]. Seltzer Bottles have given better results overall, but a jar will usually do the job. A strong cap or lid is also needed to prevent the hydrogen gas from escaping. Many acids [or even bases] will work with the aluminum foil. We have had success with muriatic acid [which is inexpensive, and easy to get] and hydrochloric acid. A base such as Milk of Magnesia or Liquid Plumr should also work with the aluminum foil. If you are using an acid, other metals besides aluminum should work. Zinc and magnesium are two such metals. Procedure: Fill approximately 1/6 of your bottle with your acid/base. Put two or three rolled up, cigar-shaped pieces of aluminum foil in the bottle, and when ready, cap tightly. Shake the bottle to cover all of the aluminum with acid, and quickly get out of the area. A typical explosion will spread glass over a 35 yard radius. You can experiment with your materials to find the optimum amounts of acid/base and metal that you will need. Caution must be used with fast reactions [i.e. Hydrochloric acid with Zinc] so that the bomb won't explode too too early. To achieve a "fireball" effect, tie a burning cloth to the bottle. When the explosion occurs, the flaming rag will ignite the released hydrogen; producing a brief fireball. Observations: The explosion is relatively loud; being greater than that of a shotgun firing. Debris is usually spread over a 25-35 yard radius. On occaision, it will take several minutes for the bomb's pressure to build up. If you are unsure about the state of the device, we recommend that you wait at least 5 minutes before going near the bomb. You might want to break the bottle from a distance by shooting it with a gun or throwing rocks at it. We cannot emphasize how important it is for you to clear the area as quickly as possible. Don't waste time by messing with the burning cloth! If you're going to use the cloth, ignite it quickly. We had one of these blow up only seconds after we cleared the area. One should value his life more than he values a comparatively worthless bomb! Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device: =============================== Materials: Bottle or jar, dry ice, water [optional]. As with the hydrogen device, we have had greater success with seltzer bottles than with jars. Once again, it is assumed that you have a good cap or lid to prevent the carbon dioxide gas from escaping. Dry Ice can usually be bought from an ice cream store for under $1.50 a pound. Dry ice does not keep long [it becomes gaseous at -109 F] and refridgeration will help little. Water can be used to speed up the device's reaction. Procedure: Break the dry ice into chunks that will fit in your bottle. The more dry ice you have, the faster the reaction. Cap the bottle tightly, and quickly clear the area. If you need a fast reaction, add water to the bottle before capping. The reaction's speed increases with warmer water. Be careful not to get a reaction that is too fast. People have had these devices blow up in their faces because they used hot water and didn't clear the area fast enough. Take into consideration the temperature of your site and excercise caution on hot days. We strongly advise against using hot water in this bomb! [Unless, of course, you have a death wish] Observations: The is a very economical and simple bomb. It can be extremely dangerous if the user is careless. By using water of different temperatures, one can roughly control the speed of this bomb's reaction. We've had a few close calls with this bomb, so we don't use water in it anymore. The reaction goes fast enough without water. Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device II: ================================== Materials: Bottle or jar, baking soda, vinegar, tissue paper. This is another carbon dioxide producing bomb. It is generally less effective than the two previous bombs we have described. Procedure: Fill about 1/5 of your bottle with vinegar. Next take some tissue paper [Kleenex or toilet paper] and wrap it around as much baking soda as possible. You may want to use a few pieces of tissue paper. The more tissue paper you use, the longer the delay will be for the reaction. When ready, drop the wrapped baking soda into the bottle, cap the bottle *quickly*, and [need we say?] run! If the bomb never explodes, that means there wasn't enough pressure. On your next try, add more vinegar and use more baking soda. Observations: Experimentation is the key to perfecting this bomb. Of course, be extremely careful, and don't stick around after capping. The materials for this bomb are common household items, making it more convienient to produce than the other two bombs. Acetylene Pressure Device: ========================== Materials: Jar, calcium carbide, water, cardboard. This is a very deadly device. Carbide, when in contact with water, produces the ultra-flammable acetylene gas. Procedure: Fill about 1/3 of the jar with water. Next, cut out a piece of cardboard that is roughly the diameter of the jar. Push this inside the jar about 1/2 way. Don't let it touch the water! The cardboard should stay where you put it if it's big enough. Now put some carbide onto the cardboard. You don't want the carbide to touch the water. Cap the jar, and when ready, turn it upsidown and shake it a little. The jar should violently explode shortly thereafter. If you want, leave a burning rag next to the bottle and you'll have a fireball. Have the rag lit before you shake the jar! Don't waste any time next to the jar after shaking it! This is a very deadly bomb, and you don't want to be its victim. Observations: This is a very dangerous, yet spectacular bomb. Needless to say, it's also quite loud. If you don't know where to get carbide, try a good sporting goods store. It's used in some miner's lamps. Chlorine Pressure Device: ========================= Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, acid, bleach. This is a fairly tricky bomb to make. Clorine is not a good gas to mess with so use care with this device. Chlorine can blind you and damage your lungs. Procedure: Fill one test tube with acid, and fill 1/3 of the jar with bleach. Put the acid filled test tube in the jar and tape it to the side of the jar. If your jar is large, you will want to fill two test tubes with acid. When ready, cap the jar and turn it upside-down. Run to a nice viewing location and watch the explosion! Don't go too near; chlorine is powerful stuff. Observations: This pressure device not only makes a nice explosion, but spreads chlorine around the area. Try to get a small jar and big test tubes for this bomb. If you have a big jar and small test tubes, there won't be enough pressure to cause an explosion Phosgene Pressure Device: ========================= Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, ammonia, bleach. This bomb has the same setup as the chlorine bomb, but uses ammonia instead of acid to react with the bleach. Phosgene is also a dangerous gas and was used in World War I in chemical weapons. Procedure: Use the same procedure as the chlorine device, but use ammonia instead of acid. First, try putting the ammonia in the test tube and the bleach in the jar. If that doesn't create enough pressure put the ammonia in the jar and the bleach in the test tube. Observations: This is almost identical to the chlorine bomb. The only difference is that they make different gasses. These last two bombs are not as reliable as other bombs in this manuscript, but you can experiment to get the best results. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >>>>*Freddy*<<<< [The Only Living Peabody] The HORN . <> . .:.:.:.:.:.:.:. If You Want To: ------------------------- |) / |) Call Network XXI Look For More Third Cartel Files Soon! |si-\hotic |)athtub [303]690-0194 -------------------------- -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- `:`:`:`::':':':' =:-Distribute-:= -=-=-1988-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-/-This File-\-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-1988-=-=- \-Anywhere!-/ [Talk About Gaudy, Eh?] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plasique Explosive from Bleach This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main ecplosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufcture.By RELATIVELY SAFE, I mean just that! DON'T SCREW AROUND WITH THIS SHIT, EITHER MAKE IT OR DON'T! The procedures in the following paragraph CAN BE DANGEROUS, if you don't take special care, and watch what you are doing! On should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfure, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage.One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., etc. a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge.) When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milileters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling.This process of purification is called fractional crystalization. these crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Power these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Disslove this in white gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. PART II RDX Manufacture This is the second in a series of articles dealing with the production of plastic explosives. This article will cover step by step (SXS?) instructions on how to make RDX, which is the main ingrediant in the rest of the plastic explosives I will cover. The information in this and all of the other articles dealing with the production of plastic explosives was orignally written by written by Tim Lewis in a book called,"Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives". I will give the address to send for this and many other books and the end of this article. THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS IF YOU WISH TO LIVE TILL YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY! Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in their chronological progression as they were developed and standardized by the armed forces. All these explosives are cyclonite or R.D.X. base with various plastisizing agents used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later.Hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for camp stoves can be used but they end up being very explensive. To use the fuel bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has.This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water.These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate.Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the ecplosive. Ofcourse the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigerous stirring should be maintained.If the temperature approches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing the vigerous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE!This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second! COMPARISON OF DETONATION VELOCITIES +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 8600 ! ! 8500 ! %%%%%%%%%% ! 8400 ! %%%%%%%%%% ! 8300 ! %%%%%%%%%% ! 8200 ! %%%%%%%%%% ! 8100 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 8000 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7900 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7800 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7700 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7600 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7500 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7400 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7300 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7200 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7100 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 7000 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 6900 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! 6800 ! %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% %%%%%%%%%% ! +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ T.N.T R.D.X. "C" "C-2" "C-3" "C-4" PART III Manufacture of type 'C' explosives This article will deal with the production of type 'C' plastic explosive compound. If you have not read my other two articles, you will need to so you can get some safety precations and the recipe for making R.D.X. All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care. (See K.I.P.E. Part II for detonation chart). This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds becuase of its relative ease of maufacture and the easy aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition: R.D.X.......................... 88.3% Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1% Lecithin....................... .6% (All percentages are by wait) In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic, (except when ingested). It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go realatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.D.X.and allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated temparatures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity of 7900 M/second. PART IV How to make type 'C-2' and 'C-3' plastic explosive compound. This article will cover the production of plastic explosives of the type 'C-2' and 'C-3'. These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds. It is not recamended you make these two types of plastique, this article was written for imformatative purposes only. (Just so you can act like you know what you are doing). Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufature. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'. It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows: R.D.X................. 80% (Equal parts of them following:) Mononitrotolulene Dinitrotolulene T.N.T. guncotton Dimethylformide......... 20% (See Below for rest of recipe) 'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was standardized and adopted by the military as following composition: R.D.X................ 77% Mononitrotolulene.... 16% Dinitrotolulene...... 5% Tetryl............... 1% T.N.T. guncotton..... 1% 'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment.The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees Celcius and the stirrer is activated.Water wet R.D.X.is added to the plastisizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 degrees Celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's explosive properties. 'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as good as an explsive as is T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the explosives detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect explosives preformance. It therefore is very good for under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an aplication. When stored at 77 degrees Celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 degrees Celcius and is hard to detonate at this tempurature. While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was still is avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M/second. Phreaking (Phone Hacking) Wrote by: Unknown. Brought to you by: The Apple Bandit 10-89 Hello, All. I am one of the designers of one of the private payphones that you are probably seeing all around in place of the Iron Horse, or "Fortress" phones (Bell's). This is probably the first part of who knows how many on how to Phreak private payphones. Lesskn 1: Introduction. The private payphone differs from the fortress phone in that the dialtone you hear when you first pick up the handset is not network dial tone, but a "Fake" dial tone for your convenience. This of course is shut off when your first digit is dialed, and DTMF or "Touch Tones" are played at each key press, also for your convenience. The digits are pissed out to perhaps an LCD display but more importantly, NOT the network. They are merely buffered into the micro that's in charge, so the dial string may then be rated. This is one way the payphone insures against fraud and is called pre-pay oper- ation, where you hafta insert bucks to get it to actually outdial the call. Note well: Free calls, 950's, 1-800's, 0 and 0+ (cre`it card, collect, etc.) are placed immediately, with no beg cycle for bucks. This is the 1st step toward phreaking a private payphone, getting out into the real network for free, and untimed by the phone. Side Note: When you walk away from a Bell phone that rings you back for overtime deposit, the CALLED PARTY is billed for that amount. The private payphone has no way to do this, so it must disconnect you if your overtime is not paid. Getting out on an untimed call means the phone will not beg fkr overtime and eventually disconnect you. In the next installment, we'll go into what to do when you hit the open network and how some of the phones out there guard against fraud. Wrote by the: Unknown Brought to you by: The Apple Bandit 10-89 Hello, again. Today's lesson on private payphones details what to do when you get yourself connected out to the network. Typically there are only a few ways to get out. The best is the good `ol Ernestine-type operator (0). The typical rap to her is "Hello, operator, I'm testing this phone. Do I sound clear to you?" or "What is the area code of Phoenix?" to which you get the universah answer "The entire state of Arizona is 602!". The former is ALWAYS safe, because of the fact that this is a private payphone, the Ma Bell operator has no way of knowing that you're not the Dickhead that's SUPPOSED to be working on the phone. By now, you're probably wondering "So what?" or something like that. Heres what: The thing you are attempting to do is hang on the line and wait for the other party (called party) to hang up. This technique is similar to the one used when phreaking call divarters, what is called "Chain Dialling" or "2nd dialtone dialout" Now, of course some of the phones out there are looking for this second dialtone, and others are looking for loop current. The 2nd dialtone from a C.O. is almost always heralded by a momentary loss of loop current, and this locks out the keypad and mouthpiece of the phone. (You can't mess with these in this way). The types which are only looking for the 2nd dialtone are easy to beat. First, some give you a "live" keypad on the phone, which means that for as long as you press a key, DTMF (Touch Tone) is heard. Others use a "metered" keypad which pisses out short DTMF bursts for each key press. The object here is to lay on the 1st digit of the number you really want to dial whihe waiting for 2nd dialtone. This will cause the C.O. to latch up on your DTMF before the payphone's internal dial tone detector can latch up on the dial tone! The network dialtone will of course go away after the 1st digit and the rest of the nuiber may be dialed more leisurely. This process can continue ad infinitum. The types with "metered" keypads are a bit more difficult to screw with, as you have to repeatedly hit that 1st digit until you hear the "flash" of dialtone between presses. Tha other type of phone disallows keypad use after the call is in progress, and for those, let me introduce you to your best friend: The Pocket Dialer! Sold for rid- iculously cheap prices at nearly every consumer electronics store, these gems allow yoq to screw with lots of different things when it comes to private payphones. Besides Operator Calls, Credit Card calls may be used to get out (0 plus). To do this, dial 0, a valid area code and prefix, and 1234 for the number. When Bell supplies tha Bong tone, dial "6#" (really dial the "#" sign). This will evoke the message "Your Card Number is Invalid, please redial" and enter "6#" again. The message this time is "Please hang up and try again." wait for 1-10 secs (depending on C.O. type) and Voila! - Dial tone! This is particularly nice because the payphone expects a lot of keypad and DTMF activity on the line for a 0 plus call, and has relaxed restraints on the keypad. That should do it for Chain dialling, next time we'll go into othar ways to phraud the fone. Wrote by the: Unknown Brought to you by: The Apple Bandit 10-89 Hello, once again here I am to talk about Phreaking Private Payphones. Lesson Three: Other Phrauding Methods. One of the notable things about private payphones is that they have to detect signals from the `Lone ,Zne (like busy, ringing, etc.) to determine the path your bucks will take when you hang up, into the cashbox (burp), or the coin return (ching!). One of the signals in particular the phone is looking for is the 3 musical tones you get for an intercept recording. (You know, BEEP-BEEP-BEEP, the number you have reached is screwed... etc.) Record these tones with a pocket tape recorder, or what have you and play them 1-2 seconds after the phone connects you to whoever. One of two things will happen: The phone will sub- tract mouthpiece signal from line signal, and know that the tones didn't come from the Line, and ignore them, or, The phone will recognize them and then one of two other things may happen. 1. The call will go thru for free. (yay!) 2. The Call will go thru for free but the mouthpiece wihl be turned off. (boo) - Still, okay for answering machines or for dial-a-whatever services where you only have to listen. The next method is a little more involved, and requires some hardware. If you have a "Butt Set" (Lineman's Fone) or a piece kf shit 9.95 Cobra phone fitted with alligator clips, you can usually see on private payphone installations a conduit running from the phone to somewhere else. In this conduit runs 2 things: the 2 wires for the phone line and 2 to 4 wires for power to the phone (usually low voltage, but be careful, some phones use 110!!!) Use a Voltmeter to find the pair that has the 48-52 volts D.C. across them and clamp on the Butt Set. - Voila! Dial tone! Look for breaks in the conduit to get into, or at the ands. When you are on the line in this fashion, there is nothing you can't do.... The line is very much like a business or residential phone line and you can call anywhere. In the next installment, we'll go into Dirty Tricks and simple mechanical Phraud. Wrote by the: Unknown Brought to you by: The Apple Bandit Hiya. Here agaIn with Lesson 4 of Phreaking Private Payphones: Dirty Tricks. Dirty Tricks involve things you can do to piss off the owners of a prhfate payphone (you know, the ass that won't refund your quarter even though you know he owns the store and the phone). 1. The Oyster Trick. This one is particularly disgusting. Materials required: 1 gooey, slimey oyster (the slimier the better!) and 1 piece of A.B.C. gum. (already been chewed). Put the piece of gum at the very bottom of the coin return chute and stuff it down into the oyster drain hole there. Then, put the oyster in the coin return, and leave. Come back later that day and remove 1 gooey oyster and shitloads of change that people were too grossed out to retrieve. If the owner of the phone geps a handful, oh well. 2. The Balloon Trick. This one is similar to the oyster trick but you use a balloon to block the coin return chute by inflating it very little and stuffing it up the thing. Later come back and prick the balloon, and jackpot! ) Both Tricks 1 and 2 annoy the owner by causing customers not to receive their change back, causing com- plaints to the owner, and possibly a service call. By the way, Tricks 1 and 2 also work on Bell Payphones... 3. The "Dead Phone" Trick. This one only works because the general populace is too stupid to listen for dialtone before inserting the Quarter. Step 1, locate the conduit described in the last installment carrying the power to the phone. Cut the 2-4 wires carrying the power. (Usually 12-48 V.D.C., though be careful! some phones use 110 A.C.!!) anyhow all day the idiots come up to the phone, pick up the handset, put in a Quarter, and gulp! the phone has no power, so not only is there no dial tone, but it can't activate the coin rehay to return the Quarter! Later that day, come back and reconnect the power, and make a call, but hang up before anyone answers and JACKPOT! All the change hung up in the coin relay comes back down the coin return. Do this a couple of times until tha relay is clear of coins. Some phones automatically eat on power-up, so this may not work, but if it does, it may not get all the coins in the relay. This Trick will most usually generate a service call, and when the tech gets there, there won't be ajy problem! - (snicker). In the next Lesson, we'll get into HACKING payphones!!! - YES, HACKING! - most private payphones have internal MODEMS! - those that do not are remotely controlled by DTMF's instead of carrier modems, but can also be hacked. Sell, Untm,Later. /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ /-/ /-/ The Aqua Box /-/ /-/ /-/ /-/ Concept By: Captain Xerox /-/ /-/ /-/ /-/ Plans By: The Traveler /-/ /-/ /-/ /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ Every True Phreaker Lives In Fear Of The Dreaded F.B.I. 'lock In Trace.' For A Long Time, It Was Impossible To Escape From The Lock In Trace. This Box Does Offer And Escape Route With Simple Directions To It. This Box Is Quite A Simple Concept, And Almost Any Phreaker With Basic Electronics Knowledge Can Construct And Use It. More (Y/N/C)? __/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\__ ____/\/__ __\/\____ ______/\/ |__ The Lock __| \/\______ ____\/\__| In Trace |__/\/____ __\/\ /\/__ \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ A Lock-In Trace Is A Device Used By The F.B.I. To Lock Into The Phone Users Location So That He Can Not Hang Up While A Trace Is In Progress. For Those Of You Who Are Not Familiar With The Concept Of 'locking In', Then Here's A Brief Description. The F.B.I. Can Tap Into A Conversation, Sort Of Like A Three-Way Call Connection. Then, When They Get There, They Can Plug Electricity Into The Phone Line. All Phone Connections Are Held Open By A Certain Voltage Of Elec- Tricity, That Is Why You Sometimes Get Static And Faint Connections When You Are Calling Far Away, Because The Electricity Has Trouble Keeping The Line Up. What The Lock In Trace Does Is Cut Into The Line And Generate That Same Voltage Straight Into The Lines. That Way, When You Try And Hang Up, Voltage Is Retained. Your Phone Will Ring Just Like Someone Was Calling You Even After You Hang Up. (If You Have Call Waiting, You Should Understand Better About That, For Call Waiting Intercepts The Electricity And Makes A Tone That Means Someone Is Going Through Your Line. Then, It Is A Matter Of Which More (Y/N/C)? Voltage Is Higher. When You Push Down The Receiver, Then It See-Saws The Electricity To The Other Side. When You Have A Person On Each Line It Is Im- Possible To Hang Up Unless One Or Both Of Them Will Hang Up. If You Try To Hang Up, Voltage Is Retained, And Your Phone Will Ring. That Should Give You An Understanding Of How Calling Works. Also, When Electricity Passes Through A Certain Point On Your Phone, The Electricity Causes A Bell To Ring Or On Some Newer Phones An Electronic Ring To Sound. So, In Order To Eliminate The Trace, You Somehow Must Lower The Voltage Level On Your Phone Line. You Should Know That Every Time Someone Else Picks Up The Phone Line, Then The Voltage Does Decrease A Little. In The First Steps Of Planning This Out, Xerox Suggested Getting About A Hundred Phones All Hooked Into The Same Line That Could All Be Taken Off The Hook At The Same Time. That Would Greatly Decrease The Voltage Level. That Is Also Why Most Three-Way Connections That Are Using The Bell Service Three Way Calling (Which Is Only $3 A Month) Become Quite Faint After A While. By Now, You Should Understand The Basic Idea. You Have To Drain All Of The Power Out Of The Line So The Voltage Can Not Be Kept Up. A Rather Sudden Draining Of Power Could Quickly Short Out The F.B.I. Voltage Machine, Because It Was Only Built To Sustain The Exact Voltage Necessary To Keep The Voltage Out. For Now, Imagine This. One Of The Normal Radio Shack Generators That You Can Go Pick Up That One End Of The Cord That Hooks Into The Central Box Has A Phone Jack On It And The Other Has An Electrical Plug. This Way, You Can More (Y/N/C)? "Flash" Voltage Through The Line, But Can't Drain It. So, Some Modifications Have To Be Done. Materials Needed- A Beoc (Basic Electrical Output Socket), Like A Small Lamp Type Connection, Where You Just Have A Simple Plug And Wire That Would Plug Into A Light Bulb. - One Of The Cords Mentioned Above, If You Can't Find One Then Construct Your Own; Same Voltage Connection, But The Restrainer Must Be Built In (I.E. The Central Box) - Two Phone Jacks (One For The Modem, One For If You Are Being Traced To Plug The Aqua Box Into) - Some Creativity And Easy Work. Notice: No Phones Have To Be Destroyed/Modified To Make This Box, So Don't Go Out And Buy A New Phone For It! All Right, This Is A Very Simple Procedure. If You Have The Beoc, It Could Drain Into Anything, A Radio, Or Whatever. The Purpose Of Having That Is You Are Going To Suck The Voltage Out From The Phone Line Into The Electri- Cal Appliance So There Would Be No Voltage Left To Lock You In With. 1) Take The Connection Cord. Examine The Plug At The End. It Should Have Only Two Prongs, If It Has Three, Still, Do Not Fear. Make Sure The Elec- More (Y/N/C)? Trical Appliance Is Turned Off Unless You Wanna Become A Crispy Critter While Making This Thing. Most Plugs Will Have A Hard Plastic Design On The Top Of Them To Prevent You From Getting In At The Electrical Wires Inside. Well, Get A Knife And Remove It. If You Want To Keep The Plug (I Don't See Why...) Then Just Cut The Top Off. When You Look Inside, Low And Behold, You Will See That At The Base Of The Prongs There Are A Few Wires Connect- Ing In. Those Wires Conduct The Power Into The Appliance. So, You Care- Fully Unwrap Those From The Sides And Pull Them Out Until They Are About An Inch Ahead Of The Prongs. If You Don't Wanna Keep The Jack, Then Just Rip The Prongs Out. If You Are, Cover The Prongs With Insulation Tape So They Will Not Connect With The Wires When The Power Is Being Drained From The Line. 2) Do The Same Thing With The Prongs On The Other Plug, So You Have The Wires Evenly Connected. Now, Wrap The End Of The Wires Around Each Other. If You Happen To Have The Other End Of The Voltage Cord Hooked Into The Phone, Stop Reading Now, You're Too Fucking Stupid To Continue. After You've Wrapped The Wires Around Each Other, Then Cover The Whole Thing With The Plugs With Insulating Tape. Then, If You Built Your Own Control Box Or If You Bought One, Then Cram All The Wires Into The Box And Re-Close It. 3) Re-Check Everything To Make Sure It's All In Place. This Is A Pretty Flimsy Connection, But On Later Models When You Get More Experienced At It More (Y/N/C)? Then You Can Solder Away At It And Form The Whole Device Into One Big Box, With Some Kind Of Cheap Mattel Hand-Held Game Inside To Be The Power Con- Nector. In Order To Use It, Just Keep This Box Handy. Plug It Into The Jack If You Want, But It Will Slightly Lower The Voltage So It Isn't Connected. When You Plug It In, If You See Sparks, Unplug It And Restart The Whole Thing. But If It Just Seems Fine Then Leave It. Using It !! Now, So You Have The Whole Thing Plugged In And All... Do Not Use This Un- Less The Situation Is Desperate! When The Trace Has Gone On, Don't Panic, Un- Plug Your Phone, And Turn On The Appliance That It Was Hooked To. It Will Need Energy To Turn Itself On, And Here's A Great Source... The Voltage To Keep A Phone Line Open Is Pretty Small And A Simple Light Bulb Should Drain It All In And Probably Short The F.B.I. Computer At The Same Time. Happy Boxing And Stay Free! Later, The Traveler Zer0-G Council Of Minds. More (Y/N/C)? [G-Files Command Menu] [?/Help]: __ _ __ ____ _______ ______________ _______ ____ __ _ __ |\ /| Brought to you by: The Motel West (801) 466-6954 3/12/24 60 Megabytes On-Line A member of T.A.P. |/_ _ __ ____ _______ ______________ _______ ____ __ _ _\| ZDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD? 3 ZDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD? 3 How to Build Your Own Underground 3 3 . . 3 3 Television Transmitter 3 3 S n o w B o x 3 3 Using Commercially 3 3 . . 3 3 Available 3 3. 13-JUN-88 . 3 3 Parts 3 3 . 3 3 ]3:^3]33^3^::]3^:]^ ]^3]3^3]]^] 3 3 Outlaw Telecommandos 3 3 ]3:^3]33^3^::]3^:]^ ]^3]3^3]]^] 3 @DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDY 3 ]3:^3]33^3^::]3^:]^ ]^3]3^3]]^] @DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDY 0 1 - 2 1 3 - 3 7 6 - 0 1 1 1 Yes, for some time now it has been possible to construct a clandestine television station, which you can operate from your Telecommando Lair, or modify for Mobile Media Guerrilla campaigns. We have named this device the Snow Box, due to its cool nature, and the snow seen on blank television channels waiting to be commandeered. To put together a TV station you will need this stuff: A VCR or Camcorder with video or RF outputs A Ham Radio 6-meter Band Linear amplifier (This boosts the RF signal from the VCR for broadcasting) (The Linear Amp should have a bandwidth of 6 MHz for best results) A cable television RF distribution amplifier may also be used. Coaxial cable with UHF connectors (Connects the Linear Amp to the Antenna) A cable-TV patch cable with an F-connector and a UHF connector (To connect the RF signal to the Linear Amp) (F-connectors are the small ones used with cable TV) (UHF connectors are the large ones used for Ham Radio) If your VCR does not have RF outputs: An external RF modulator (converts video to channel 3,6,12 etc.) a cable with RCA connectors (a standard stereo cord is ok) A 6-meter Ham radio antenna. If you do not have a pre-made 6-meter antenna: About 20 feet of strong wire 3 ceramic antenna insulators another UHF connector Likely places to get the linear amplifier, connectors and cables is a Ham Radio swapmeet, a Ham club newsletter's classified ads, a Buy-Sell-Trade paper like The Recycler, or at a store specializing in Ham gear. RF modulators are available at specialty video stores, or major VCR dealers. Setting Up the Transmitter: Using a VCR with RF out: [VCR/RF]F----------------------------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna] weak RF Power RF Using an External RF Modulator: [VCR]R-------R[RF Modulator]---------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna] video weak RF Power RF Diagram Symbols: U UHF-connectors (Ham radio) F F-connectors (cable TV) R RCA connectors (stereos) --- coax, cables, wires [] devices (name of device in brackets) ceramic insulator (the kind with a hole at each end) Building The Dipole Antenna: wire wire ---------------------++---------------------- | | Short coax | | [U] UHF connector The antenna is set up much like a clothesline with the wires tethered straight out horizontally. The outer insulators are used to isolate the antenna from the tether lines, which should be rope or nylon cords for good results. The inner insulator isolates a gap between the two long wires of the antenna. The length of the wires used for the antenna is critical. Look up the length in feet for the channel you want to use in the table below & make each of the two long wires that length. As a rule of thumb, a wire half-wave antenna's length in feet is equal to 468 divided by the frequency in MHz. **************************************** VHF Television Channel Data ---------------------------------------- TV MHz ---carrier--- antenna channel range video sound lengths ------- ----- ----- ----- ------- 2 54-60 55.25 59.75 8.47ft 3 60-66 61.25 65.75 7.64ft 5 76-82 77.25 81.75 6.05ft 6 82-88 83.25 87.75 5.62ft 7 174-180 175.25 179.75 2.67ft 8 180-186 181.25 185.75 2.58ft 9 186-192 187.25 191.75 2.49ft 10 192-198 193.25 197.75 2.42ft 11 198-204 199.25 193.75 2.34ft 12 204-210 205.25 209.75 2.28ft 13 210-216 211.25 215.75 2.21ft (All frequencies in MHz) (Lengths are for half-wave antennas) **************************************** For Further information: Look in the ARRL Handbook published by the American Radio Relay League for detailed plans & theory for antennas, transmitters & linear amplifiers. The info in that book can be used for setting up an underground AM or FM radio station. Public Education: Make a videotape of each step in the process of constructing your transmitter. Show this tape in your broadcasts, "For informational purposes only", of course. Short-burst zipping: From a fixed or mobile base of operation show short snippets of graffiti-like computer graphics, quick subliminal messages, images & suggestions, or brief phreaker manifestos. Commercials are an opportune time to break into TV broadcasts. Live call-in shows: Using a Cheese Box, or other device for receiving untraceable phone calls and a video camera do a live call-in show. Encourage people to call in using Red, Blue, and other phreaking boxes. Cable TV Piracy: With modifications it may be possible to feed the power RF signal directly into a cable TV system, overriding cablecasts or comandeering unused channels. Mobile Operation: Using storage batteries and a 110-volt inverter the transmitter may be modified for mobile use to avoid detection by the FCC during long broadcasts. Battery operated mobile linear amps and portable camcorders are also available. * Please add any anecdotes or new information you discover to this file * FREQ OUT FREQ OUT KEY POT ON VCO1 POT ON VCO 2 PIN 14 VCO1 PIN 14 VCO C 1 6 1700 1100 0 2 10 1300 1500 E 1 10 1700 1500 1 4 7 900 700 2 3 7 1100 700 3 3 8 1100 900 4 2 7 1300 700 5 2 8 1300 900 6 2 6 1300 1100 7 5 7 1500 700 8 5 8 1500 900 9 5 6 1500 1100 X - 9 ---- 2600 *********************************************************** REMEMBER THAT FIG-2 IT IS THE SAME FOR EACH KEY EXCEPT THE "X" WHICH ONLY TAKES ONE DIODE. *********************************************************** AS A FINAL WORD YOU CAN BUILD THIS IN ANY TYPE OF ENCLOSURE AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED WHICH IS TOTAL BULLSHIT! USE IT! Hacking NOTE: Although I have all but quit hacking since the release of these messages, I would like this file redistruted. It has not been edited.. or umm CORRECTED, but some idiot decided that my POSTS a while back needed to be gathered into a file. The job was done poorly and the result was 7 files of message base posting size. Not smart. %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% %% %% %% What's Hacking? %% %% A series by David Lightman %% %% %% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%-SPECIAL ISSUE-%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% %% %% %% VAX COMPUTER SYSTEMS %% %% %% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% USENET: bdunn@attctc.dallas.tx.us ... or ... {texsun..texbell..}!attctc!bdunn TELEMAIL: csupport/a755.cc3556/tech.services/credit.data/isg/trw BBS's: If I get multiple requests about a topic (as I did with VAX), I will put something online the WHAT'S HACKING? subboards and the beta system Twilight Zone ]I[. ----------------------------------------------------------------- VAX: The VAX acronym is derived from Virtual Address eXtension. The VAX computer is designed to use memory addresses beyond the hardware's actual limits, enabling it to handle pro- grams that are too large to fit into physical memory. The VAX computer system is a member of the Digital Equipment Corporation (DEC) computer family. Currently the VAX series includes models spanning the desktop VAX station to mainframe class multi-CPU VAX processors. These vary from the superminis, like MicroVAX, to the older, moderate sized 11/7XX series, to the newer 6000 series. These computer systems commonly use an operating system known as VMS. VMS: The VMS acronym is for Virtual Memory System. The operands of VMS are very similar to other operating systems. Back in the days of stand-alone computer systems, DEC had the idea for streamlining the operation of their computers for business and engineering. It conceived VMS as a way of allowing the basic computer management to be done by a user familiar with any of the multiple systems it made. DCL: The DCL acronym is for Digital Command Language. It is the fundamental language of the VMS. Those of you who have an IBM system, you can think of a DCL program like a batch file. You can do a lot with it (much more than a PC-DOS or MS-DOS batch) but it work basically the same way. One difference is that when you want to execute anything as if you were typing it in at the command prompt, you first must put a "$" in front of the command in the DCL program. DCL programs are commonly called COM files as well. When you are not executing a COM or DCL program file, you are almost always typing things into the DCL processor. WHAT DOES A VAX LOOK LIKE: (quickly) ========================= When you log into a VAX, you will see something similar to the following: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: WELCOME TO THE AT&T MICROVAX II SYSTEM Username: (username here) Password: (password here... does not echo) $ (<-- this is your prompt) ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: You will know if you have a VAX type system if you get the "Username:" and "Password:" prompts. Anything is just extra that helps you guess passwords. GETTING IN A VAX BY ERROR: ========================= I will only tell you one thing here. VMS 4.X and especially VMS4.4 are goldmines. I am not going to go into this at all, because it is a lengthy explanation that doesn't fit in the scope of this message. You can find this discussion on ARPANET and USENET. You can also get this information on CompuServe Information Service, BYTE Information Exchange, and Digital Electronics Corporation's VAX BBS. There is also a big problem with VMS 5.1, but that doesn't involve getting in. If there are enough requests, I will cover this information in another mes- sage. GETTING IN A VAX BY DEFAULT: =========================== There are several default accounts that were put in by DEC when testing and installing the VAX. These accounts have pass- words which don't change from system to system. The SYSOP should have removed these accounts or changed the passwords, but it is not done a lot of times. Below, I have listed several defaults: USERNAME PASSWORD -------- -------- DECNET DECNET * SYSTEST UETP SYSTEST SYSTEM SYSTEM DEFAULT DEFAULT * FIELD FIELD OPERATIONS OPERATIONS * SUPPORT SUPPORT DEC SYSTEST_CLIG CLIG SYSTEST TEST Where I have listed several passwords, I have found the re- spective usernames passworded that way as much as the default password. The accounts with asterisks beside them are powerful accounts by default. VAX VMS COMMANDS: ================ Once you get your "$" prompt, you will be able to type in hundreds of commands of course. I will go over a few basic ones here: @ - Execute procedure. When you want to run any DCL batch or *.COM;* file, you must include this "@" before the filename. EX: @LOGIN.COM;3 ACCOUNTING - This will run the accounting program. If you log out of a system and you see charges put on your account for the amount of time you are on, the system is using account. Actual- ly every system uses accounting somewhat, but it can be made virtually invisible. If you are desperate, or you are having troubles with the system operators of the VAX (SYSOPS from now on), you can use this program to your advantage. CREATE - This will create just about anything. If you have a program that you have written on your PC's Pascal interpreter, you can Ascii upload the file to the VAX using the CREATE command. EX: CREATE program.pas;1 CREATE/DIR - This will simply create a SUB directory for you. I will explain how to get around a VAX in a minute. See the SET command. EX: CREATE/DIR NameOfDir DELETE - Just used to delete a file or EMPTY, UNPRO- TECTED DIRECTORY. To delete a file, just type "DEL filename.ext;x." To delete a sub directory, first delete all of the files in the directory: "DEL/LOG *.*;*" Next, you will need to SET PROTECTION: "SET PROTECTION=OWNER:D dirname.DIR" Next, delete the directory: "DEL dirname.DIR" EX: DEL DAVID.TXT;4 DIRECTORY - This will show you what files are contained in the current directory. Adding "/BRIEF" will give you a short listing and adding "/FULL" will give you a full listing includ- ing security information on each file. You can shorten the command to DIR and you may use wildcards. The "*" means anything of any length. The "%" means anything one character length. EX: DIR/FULL DAVID-%%.*;% EDIT - This command will bring up the editor. Some VAX systems use a type of editor similar to MS-DOS/PC-DOS's EDLIN. HOWEVER, some VAX systems use EDT/EVE editing which is a full screen editor (usually). With this editor, you can do a lot quickly, but only if your terminal will support cursor control. VT-100 is very clumsy. Try getting VT-220 when you use the EDT/EVE editor. HELP - This command will bring up the HELP program. This is just a clumsy imitation of what you are reading. (heh heh) LIBRARY - Used for archive purposes. You will proba- bly not use this command much if you are new. I am mentioning it now because I will type up a more in depth discussion of VAX later on the "What's Hacking?" sub boards. LOGOUT - Logs you out. MAIL - Loads the mail program. Used to send mail to others users and CAN (YES, IT CAN) be used to send mail (or other) to (OR FROM) the network if the VAX is connected to a network. It CAN (YES, CAN) also send data to (OR FROM) the computers on the DECNET (if used). $PASSWORD - Changes your password. EX: $PASSWORD mynewpass PHONE - Used to talk to another user. This command is pretty nice compared to other means. Your "$" prompt will be replaced with a "%" prompt once phone is executed. If you want to talk to someone, type his username. If you want to talk to someone on a different node, type his nodename, two colons, and then his user- name. A lot of times you will find this one disabled (especially on University computers), but there are alternate ways to communication online other than MAIL and PHONE. See below. EX: PHONE % node13::dlight PHOTO - Records session. RUN - Executes executables. (simple?) SET - Wow... this is a lot. See below. SHOW - This involves a lot too, but not as much as SET. With SHOW, you can look at a lot. I am just going to list a lot of things you can view and what it will show you. EX: SHOW USERS DAV CLUSTER - VAX cluster if any DEFAULT - Directory path and device DEVICES - The system devices (drives, etc.) INTRUSION - If any accounts are being hacked MEMORY - Memory of course NETWORK - Network and the VAX's location within PROCESS - PROCESS ProcessName shows status PROTECTION - Protection on files QUOTA - Shows disk space allowed for your account SYSTEM - Miscellaneous system info DAY - Day & date TIME - Time USERS - Users online all systems TYPE - Shows the contents of a file by sending it to the terminal. EX: TYPE DAVID.TXT;3 THE SET COMMAND: =============== The SET command is one of the most widely used and versatile commands on the VMS 5 series DCL. SET FILE/PROTECTION: =================== I suppose the most frequent use of SET involved the PROTECTION option. These protections, known as SOGW or UIC protections, can be put on any file or directory that you have WRITE & EXECUTE privileges on. Setting the protection involves allowing differ- ent users on the VAX to read, write, execute, or delete your file or directory. The FILE /PROTECTION option of SET is used to accomplish this. An example is: SET FILE/PROTECTION=OWNER:E david.exe;4 If you typed this command in the DCL for a program called DAVID.EXE;4 (4 is the version number), then the owner (or crea- tor) of the file can do nothing to the file but execute it. However, in another example: SET FILE/PROTECTION=OWNER:RWED david.exe;4 you are going to be able to "R"ead, "W"rite, "E"xecute, and "D"elete the program. The same applies to a directory. Just substitute the directory name for the filename above. When creating a directory, the SET is set so that you may not delete it. As discussed previously, you will have to issue a "SET PROTECTION OWNER:D dirname.dir;1" and "DEL dirname.dir;1" to delete the directory. Other than the owner, UIC file protection can be placed on any of the following: WORLD - Any user on the system. GROUP - Any user in your group. OWNER - Only your account or matching UIC. SYSTEM - Anyone that has SYSPRV privileges or the octal UIC groups. SET TERMINAL: ============ This is VERY important to all of us who call into the VAX system. If you have a VT100 (not just ANSI), you can use: SET TERMINAL/DEVICE_TYPE=VT100 Additional terminal settings are possible, for example: SET TERMINAL/WIDTH=80 - Sets width to 80 columns SET TERMINAL/ADVANCED_VIDEO = Sets 124 X 24 lines SET TERMINAL/ANSI_CRT = ANSI escape sequences SET TERMINAL/AUTOBAUD = Possibly gets higher baud rate SET TERMINAL/BROADCAST = Enable messages from SEND, MAIL & PHONE SET TERMINAL/DEVICE_TYPE=VT220 - Sets terminal type to VT220 SET TERMINAL/ECHO = Enables echoing from DCL command line SET TERMINAL/FULLDUP = Enables full duplex SET TERMINAL/HANGUP = Causes account to log off if no carrier SET TERMINAL/INQUIRE - Shows device_type of terminal SET TERMINAL/PAGE=43 - Sets display length to 43 lines SET TERMINAL/TYPE_AHEAD = Sets type ahead function on SET TERMINAL/UNKNOWN - Used for ASCII device types SET TERMINAL/WRAP = Used to set wrap around feature All of the above denoted with a "=" rather than a "-" can be changed to the opposite setting by placing a "NO" directly in front of the qualifiers. EX: SET TERMINAL/NOECHO SET DEFAULT (or... MOVING AROUND A VAX): ======================================= To move around the VAX DCL, in and out of directories, I need to tell you about the SET DEFAULT command. It is just like the CD command on UNIX and MS-DOS/PC-DOS, except it follows a format. The format is "SET DEFAULT [.subdir]" to go down to a sub direc- tory and "SET DEFAULT [-]" to go to the parent directory. I will explain more involved uses like changing disks, if asked, to keep you out of trouble for now. First, I will show by example and then explain my example to those out there who lack a brain. $ DIR (step 1) PROGRAM.EXE;2 PROGRAM.EXE;1 $ CREATE/DIR example (step 2) $ DIR (step 3) EXAMPLE.DIR;1 PROGRAM.EXE;2 PROGRAM.EXE;1 $ SET DEFAULT [.example] (step 4) $ DIR (step 5) no files, animals, vegetables, nor minerals error $ SET DEF [-] (step 6) $ COPY PROGRAM.EXE;2 [.example] (step 7) $ SET DEF [.example] (step 8) $ DIR (step 9) PROGRAM.EXE;2 $ Here's what I did... STEP 1: I asked to see the contents of the current directory. I found that I have the program PROGRAM.EXE is the 1st and 2st versions in the directory. STEP 2: I created a directory called "EXAMPLE." This name can be anything of course. STEP 3: I again asked for the contents of the directory. It now shows me that I have a "file" called "EXAMPLE.DIR;1." That is just the directory. Any- thing with an extension of "DIR" will be a directory. For more on extensions, see below. STEP 4: I changed directories by use of the SET DEFAULT command. You must always follow this format to change into a SUB directory. STEP 5: I AGAIN (!) looked into the directory. This time, my directory was EXAMPLE so I of course saw nothing. You will get an error I believe when you try to DIR an empty directory. STEP 6: This command is used to rise up to the parent direc- tory. The parent directory contains the filename "EXAMPLE.DIR;1," remember? The DEFAULT option can be shortened to DEF. STEP 7: Here I am illustrating how to move programs around a little. I just copied the program PROGRAM.EXE;2 into the subdirectory EXAMPLE. STEP 8: See step 3. (a lazy, tired Dave) STEP 9: I >ONCE MORE< issued the DIR command to reveal the contents of the directory. I now find the program PROGRAM.EXE;2 in my directory listing of my sub directory EXAMPLE. If you don't understand the basics of moving around a VAX by now, push "OFF". FILENAME EXTENSIONS: =================== Occasionally you will run across a BIG directory. This will hopefully not happen until you read more on VAX on my WHAT'S HACKING sub boards, but if it does, this list will hopefully help you avoid making too big a mistake or wasting a lot of time. ADA Ada compiler source code file BAS BASIC compiler source code file B32 BLISS-32 compiler source code file C C compiler source code file COB COBAL compiler source code file FOR FORTRAN compiler source code file MAR MACRO compiler source code file PAS Pascal compiler source code file PLI PL/I compiler source code file CLD DCL command description file COM DCL batch or command procedure file DAT Data file DIS Distribution file (as in mail) DIR Directory file (as in a subdirectory) EDT Command file for the EDT editing program EXE Executable program HLP Text for help libraries JOU EDT editor journal when problems occur LIS System listing file (as in TYPE, PRINT, & PHOTO) LOG Batch job output file MAI Mail message file MEM DSR output file OBJ Object code created by compiler before LINKing RNO Source file for DSR SIXEL Files for Sixel graphics SYS System image file TJL Journal created when the unusual occurs (DECNET a lot) TMP Temporary file (sometimes valuable) TPU Editor command file TXT Text library input file (also MAIL output file) UAF USER AUTHORIZATION FILE I will comment extensively on UAF files when I decide to type up another VAX tutorial. Scams - The Disk Jockey - - presents: - - Scamming ATM's - - (Automatic Teller Machines) - Preface: ------- ATM's are nothing new, banks have been using them for years, and now you see them being used more than ever, and are becoming more and more widespread. This, of course, just opens up more ways to make money, and I am again bringing you another safe and proven technique of improving your cash flow. Banks: ----- As mentioned, almost all banks nowadays have ATM machines. Grab the local phone book and start calling banks. What you want to know is "What is the most I can take out of an ATM machine right after I deposit a check?" Most banks range anywhere from $50 to $1000. This is for when you make a deposit via the ATM, and then right away make a withdraw against the funds on the check, even though the check hasn't been verified. I'm sure you can see what's coming. Account: ------- Open a savings account at the bank that offers the highest amount of ATM withdraw. Use a fake name (of course) and apply for the ATM card too. You might even tell them that you need the ATM card because you work odd hours, so it is difficult for you to get to the banks when they are open. Deposit: ------- Soon you will get your ATM card in the mail, and it should be sent to your mailing address that would be a lot like a drop for carding. You should be able to figure out how to do that. Take your ATM card and go to the banks ATM machine. Select DEPOSIT and when it asks for amout, type in $999.00. DO NOT deposit an amount OVER $1000! This is important because then the check will have to wait for bank clearance, which means that you'll be screwed. When it's time to insert the deposit into the slot on the ATM, insert an empty envelope. For all the ATM knows, this was just a check for $999.00, and now places your account ledger at $999.00. Now you are free to withdraw up to the full $1000 that you are allowed. Since you never really put in any money, this is all free money coming out! I've done this myself and got $950 out of a machine. It was a HUGE stack of twenties! Just be on the watch for cameras! Have fun. -The Disk Jockey ==Phrack Classic== Volume Three, Issue 32, File #6 of 12 +----------------------------------+ ] Exploration of: ] ] Automatic Teller Machine Cards ] ] ] +----+-------------------------+---+ ] Written by: ] ] Jester Sluggo ] ] ] ] Released: May 13, 1989 ] ](to Black-Ice:For Review)] ] Released: Jan 12, 1990 ] ] (to Phrack Inc.) ] ] Released: Nov, 10, 1990 ] ] (to Phrack Classic) ] +-------------------------+ With the North American continent the being the worlds biggest consumer of goods and services liquidity of the banking system has become an important factor in our everyday lives. Savings accounts were used by people to keep money safe and used by the banks to provide money for loans. However, due to 'Bankers Hours' (10 AM to 3 PM) it was often difficult for people to get access to thier money when they needed it. The banking system then created the Checking Account system. This system allowed people to have much easier access to thier money. Unfortunately the biggest drawback of this system is that people can not manage thier own money and accounting procedures. Millions of times each day throughout the North American continent people are writing checks for more money than they have in thier savings accounts. This drawback also causes the already-backed up judicial system to become backed up further. The banking system soon reacted to this problem by producing 'check verification' methods to prevent people from forgery, and overdrawing from thier accounts. "Money makes the world go 'round" and there are many different ways to make this world spin. Today we have checking accounts, credit cards, travelers checks, and the most 'liquid' form of money: cash. Cash transactions are untrackable and widely accepted, so I feel the "Paperless Society" will never happen. Automated Teller Machines provide consumers with 24-hour access to cash-sources. By simply inserting a plastic card into the machine and keypadding-in the owners' "account password", you can access the owners bank account and receive cash in-hand. This file will explain some details of the automated tellers and the plastic card used by the Teller-system. The automated teller is connected by wires and cables to a "Main Computer". During each transaction the teller sends signals to the main computer. The main computer records each transaction (a deposit or withdrawl) and updates the card-holders account. It also sends 'approval' or 'denial' signals to the ATM in regard to the transaction requested. If a card-holder attempts to withdraw $150.00 from his account and he has only $100.00 in it, the main computer will tell the ATM to deny the transaction. The ATM has 2 compartments to store cash in. The first is the "deposits" compartment. This is a small area that receives the daily deposits. It is located in the upper-part of the machine, near all the mechanical devices. However, because most ATM transactions are withdrawls the complete bottom-half is filled with cash where the withdrawls are extracted from. The plastic card inserted into the machine is the same size as a credit card. The front of the card is embossed with information about the card-holder. The back-side of the card has a thin strip of magnetic tape which also holds some important information. +--------------------------+ +--------------------------+ ] CIRRUS ] ]--------------------------] ] INSTANT CASH CARD ] ]/////(magnetic strip)/////] ] ] ]--------------------------] ] Acct: 12345675 Exp. ] ] ] ] Joe Schmoe 01/91 ] ] "card-holders signature" ] ] ] ] ] +--------------------------+ +--------------------------+ Front-side Back-side When a cardholder inserts his card into the machine and requests a transaction, the machine reads the embossed information from the front-side and compares it with the data stored on the magnetic strip; looking for a 'match' of the information on both sides. The information on the front-side is easily readable with your eyes. However, you can not read the data on the magnetic-strip so easily. You may ask , "What is stored on the magnetic strip ?". The answer is; the same information as the embossing plus some 'confidential' information regarding the cardholders' financial status is stored there. The magnetic strip has 3 "tracks" on it. The first track can store 210 BPI (Bytes per inch), and the second stores 75 BPI, and the third stores 210 BPI. So, we have: +---------------------------+ Track 1: (210 BPI density) +---------------------------+ Track 2: ( 75 BPI density) +---------------------------+ Track 3: (210 BPI density) +---------------------------+ THE MAGNETIC STRIP Now, here's the information stored on each track of the strip in my example: Track 1: " ;B 12345675 ^ Schmoe/Joe ^ ; LRC " Track 2: " ;12345675 01/91 ^ 1234 ^ (discriminate data) ; LRC " Track 3: " ;12345675 ^ 01/91 ^ 5 (discriminate data) ; LRC " Here's the decoding of the above information: Track 1: ";" = Beginning of the data character "B" = Field-Control Character: I believe this character tells the ATM what type of account (or status) the user has. "12345675" = This is the account number of the cardholder. "^" = Data-field seperator. "Schmoe/Joe" = Last/First name of cardholder. "^" = Data-field seperator. ";" = End of data character. "LRC" = Longitude Redundancy Check (end of track character). Track 2: ";" = Beginning of data character "12345675" = Account number of the cardholder. "01/91" = Month/Year the card expires. "^" = Data-field seperator. "1234" = Process Identification Number (The cardholders 'password', I think... or it could be a number to verify the the transaction between the ATM and the Main Computer). "^" = Data-field seperator "(dscrmn. data)" = Discriminate Data. Not much is known exactly what is stored here. Perhaps Bank Identification data or bank account type (savings, checking?) ? ";" = End of data character. "LRC" = Longitude Redundancy Check. Track 3: ";" = Beginning of data character. "12345675" = Account number of the cardholder. "^" = Data-field seperator. "01/91" = Month/Year the card expires. "^" = Data-field seperator. "5" = The crypting-digit. When the transaction request is sent to the main computer, it is encrypted. This digit tells which encryption-key is used. "(dscrmn. data)" = A duplicate of the discriminate data stored on Track 2. ";" = End of data character. "LRC" = Longitude Redundancy Check. When the card is being processed the ATM tries to match the account number, expiration date and name stored on each track. The reason they duplicate data is for verification purposes. But, notice that the duplicate data is stored on different tracks, each having different recording densities. Once the information on the tracks are confirmed to match, the ATM compares them to the embossed information on the front-side. If all of the information matches then the transaction will proceed. If it doesn't match, then the card is considered to be damaged and the ATM will keep the card. It will give the cardholder a piece of paper instructing the user to notify the bank who issued his ATM-card so he can receive a replacement card in the mail (this process takes about 3 weeks). Now that you know how the ATM-system is designed and what information is kept where on the card, what "security defects" does this system contain ? I will outline 4 methods of attacking this system that have been tried (not by me!). 1) Vandalization: If you want, you can break-in to the ATM. However, most ATM's contain 'sensor' devices which sound an alarm when this is tried. Therefore, if you're going to try this method I do not suggest using a hammer and chisel on the ATM because it will take 1/2 an hour to get the machine open and by that time the police will be there. You could try a much faster way, dynamite; but that might scatter the money all-over, making it hard to collect. Also, the bottom-half is where most of the money is stored (unless you happen to choose a machine that has issued all of its withdrawl-cash) so you'll want to break into the bottom-half of the ATM. In relation to this, you could wait outside the ATM for a valid-user to complete his withdrawl-transaction and mug him. As far as I know, the bank holds no responsibilty for placing the ATM in a 'secure' enviroment. However, usually they will have lights nearby and placed in 'reasonable' places where people need money (example: Grocery store) and where the chance of mugging is slim. 2) Physical Penetration: There are several ways of doing this. If you have a stolen card, you could randomly try guessing his account-password. But, I feel this is a primitive method. If you try too many attempts at guessing the 'password', the ATM will return the card to you. But, your attempts *might* be recorded in the central computer; allowing the bank to decide whether to cancel that card... However, this has not been verified by me. If you do get a cash-card, you can make counterfeit-cards. A) Counterfiet ATM-cards: The same method for producing counterfiet credit cards applies to ATM-cards. If you have a valid ATM-card you can 'clone' it simply by embossing a blank-card with the same information. Copying the mag- netic strip is also easy. To do this, you place a blank strip of the magnetic tape on top of the valid magnetic strip. Then, using an iron on low-heat, gently rub the iron across the two strips for a few seconds. Lastly, peel the new strip apart from the valid one and you've got a copy of all the data from the valid ATM-card. B) Also, I've heard a case where some guys had a machine that could read and write to the magnetic strips (probably they were employees of a company that produces the ATM-cards). Using this machine, they were able to create and change existing data on ATM-cards (such as the expiration date so they could keep using the same card over a long period of time). In relation to this there are other devices available that can read and write to magnetic strips. Using your own microcomputer, you can buy a device that allows you to read and write to these magnetic strips. It looks similar to a disk drive. If you're interested in exploring this method, I'll suggest that you contact the following company: American Magnetics Corporation 740 Watsoncenter Road Carson, California 90745 USA 213/775-8651 213/834-0685 FAX 910-345-6258 TWX C) WARNING: During each transaction attempted on an ATM a photo of the person requesting the transaction is taken. How long this film is stored is unknown, but it probably is different for each bank (unless there is a federal regulation regarding this). Also, it is possible that this is not done at all ATMs. 3) "Insider" Theft: The above case also crosses over into this section. The biggest 'security leaks' in any company are its employees. This is also the easiest way to steal money from ATMs. The man who collects the deposits from the machine and inserts cash for withdrawls has the easiest and most open access to these machines. I was told that this person can easily steal money from ATMs and not be detected. Another person with access to these machines is the technician. The technician who fixes ATMs is the most-knowledgeable person about ATMs within the bank, therefore he should be a trust- worthy guy and receive a 'comfortable' salary.. otherwise he'll begin to collect 'retirement benefits' from the ATM and this may go undetected. However, I have heard of some embezzlement-cases involving ATMs, so I think it's not as easy as it seems. It's only common sense that a bank would account for every dollar of every transaction. Whether the accounting is done inside the ATM or the main computer doesn't make a difference... some form of accounting is *probably* done. 4) Data-link Intercept: This method has been very successful. What you do is 'tap' into the wires that connect the ATM to the Main computer. By doing this you can intercept and send signals to the ATM. However, some 'inside information' is needed because the transmission is encrypted (refer to the Cryptography Digit stored on the magnetic strip). But, I think you don't need to know *everything* being transferred. You should need to know when to send the 'approval' signal to the ATM telling it to dispense its' cash. I read a case (it may be in Phrack World News; 1985?) where some guys netted $600,000 from various ATMs using this method. This seems to be one of the better, and more ingenious methods of stealing from these machines. The information in this file should be 'adequate' to introduce you to how ATMs work. How did I get this information? I went into a bank and inquired about the computer-technology of ATMs. The man who was responsible for the ATMs was a bureaucrat and actually knew very little about the 'guts' of ATMs. Luckily the ATM-technician was there that day and I agreed to buy him dinner later that evening. (Please refer to: "Insider" Theft and the principle of Company-Loyalty). During the dinner at "Toppers" (a neat 1950's Burgers/Milkshake/Beer restaurant) he provided me with Operation and Repair manuals for the ATMs. I feel this information is well-worth the $3.82 dinner and will be of some value to its' readers. Some good information was screened-out due to its 'delicate nature', but the information I've provided has been confirmed. Cable Descrambling If You Have Cable Tv But Are Not Fortunate Enough To Have The Premium Services, Here Is A Simple Way To Steal Cinemax, The Movie Channel, Showtime, The Disney Channel, And Any Other Service That Appears As A Bussing Fuzzy Picture (That You Can Almost Get Clearly By Fine Tuning). This Method Also Works On Channels That Appear As A Lined Flashing Screen That Produce A Beeping Sound. These Channels Are Not Scrambled, But Instead A Garbage Transmission Is Sent At The Same Frequency. Therefore, In Order To Receive The Movie Servcices Clearly, You Must Filter Out The Garbage. More (Y/N/C)? Here Is A Simple Way To Do This: 1) Examine The Back Of Your Tv Set. Find The Vhf Antenna Terminals (These Are The Antenna Terminals That The Cable Service Is Hooked Up To). Get A Piece Of Antenna Wire (About 3 Feet Long). Strip One End Of The Wire And And Attach It To The Vhf Terminals Along With The Cable. Tune In To One Of The Movie Services And Adjust The Fine Tuner Until You Get The Cleanest Picture. Cut Off About 1/4 Inch Of The Antenna Wire And Adjust The Fine Tuner. Continue To Do This Until You Get A Nearly Perfect Picture (You Should Not Have To Cut Off More Than 6 Inches Of The Antenna Wire). Get A Piece Of Aluminum Foil And Wrap It Around The Antenna Wire Slide It Up And Down Until You Have A Perfect Picture. This Is A Simple Yet Effective Way To Get Movies For Free. Rs Ma Be Obtained By Writing Cable Facts, Box 711-R, Pataskala, Oh 43062. They Have An Excellent Publication Available For $8.95. More (Y/N/C)? Also Write To Random Access, Box 41770R, Phoenix, Az 85080. Ask For Their Subscription Tv Manual That Deals With Video Scrambling Techniques. Enjoy Your File(S). Drugs The following chemicals have been used to manufacture, in various combinations, illicit drugs. If you are encountering them in the course of your duties, you may be interrupting the commission of a felony. Notify the closest bonafide police drug unit or DEA. CHEMICAL LISTINGS FROM EMERGENCY RESPONSE GUIDE Guide # Name I.D.# 59 Benzyl Chloride 1738 26 Benzaldehyde 1989 55 Phenylacetonitrile 2470 56 Chloroacetone 1695 60 Phenylacetyl Chloride 2577 19 Methylamine (anhydrous) 1061 68 Methylamine (aqueous) 1235 26 Nitroethane 2842 42 Thallium Nitrate 2727 60 Hydriodic Acid 1787 32 Phosphorous (amorphous, red) 1338 26 Cyclohexanone 1915 26 Bromobenzene 2514 29 Piperdine 2401 26 Pyridine 1282 29 Pyrrolodine 1922 68 Ethylamine 1036 32 Magnesium(pellets, turnings, or ribbon) 1869 60 Toluene Sulfonic Acid 2584, 2586, 2583, 2585 55 O-Toluidine 1708 68 Diethylamine 1154 19 Dimethylamine, anhydrous 1032 26 Dimethylamine, aqueous 1160 15 Hyrochloric Acid, anhydrous 1050 60 Hyrochloric Acid, solution 1789 60 Sodium Hydroxide, dry, solid 1823 60 Sodiun Hydroxide, solution 1824 27 Benzene 1114 27 Toluene 1294 27 Hexane 1208 26 Acetone 1090 26 Methyl Ethyl Ketone 1193 28 Methanol 1230 26 Ether 1155 * List provided by the Department of Justice, Drug Enforcement Agency ************** * Drugs * ************** The Use Of The Following Can Ruin Your Life, And Are To Be Used As An Be Used As An Added Experiance In Life, Not As An Escap Added Experiance In Life, Not As An Escape. These Are Non Illegal And Somw , Non Habit Forming... Get High On Life Not Drugs. Supplies: 15 Lbs. Ripe Bananas (Yes Bananas) A Lerge Cookie Sheet Pan A Rasor Blade An Oven. Yes, Banana's Of All Things Do Contain An Amount Of A Stimulant, More (Y/N/C)? Called Bananadine... It Is Located On The Innerpotion Of The Peels, And Tastes Bitter... Have You Ever Ate One Of The " Strings That Peel Off Of The Inner Peel" Well Thats Bananadine. Procedure: Peel The Bananas... Eat The Chow, Keep The Peels. Get The Rasor Blade And Scrape The Inside Of The Peels Into A Pot. Be Sure To Get All Of The Soft Stuff Inside Of The Peels. When You Are Done, Scraping The Stuff Into The Pot, Put Some Water In Along With The Banana Stuff, And Boil The Stuff Untill It Turns Into A Paste. When A Paste Is Achieved, Spread The Soultion Over A Cookie Pan And Bake In The Oven At The Highest Possible Heat Untill A Black Powder Is Achieve Pulvarize, Roll, Smoke, One Or Two Will = One Trip. Remember.......... Use, Don't Abuse, Abusers Are Loosers, And Loosers Are Users. )(()()()()()()()())(()()()()()()()()()(()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()(() Either Alcohol )()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()()( C (6) H (12) O (6) + Pruvic Acid = Either Alcohol Glucose Plus The Acids From Fruits Make Either Alcohol! So, Take A Jar, Some Fruit: More (Y/N/C)? Grapes Strawberries Peaches Apples Etc... And Put Them In An Air Tight Jar Filled With Sugar! Put In A Damp Place To Let The Reaction Set In And Drink Heartily When You Are Ready. _____________________________________________________________________ Various Non Illgal Simple Drugs ______________________________________________________________________ 1. Get About 5 Large Toads...Skin Them And Dry The Skins... Crush And Smoke ** Note ** Because Of The Bad Taste, You May Want To Add A Little Peppermint Or Something. 2. Glue... Get A Tube Of Model Airplane Glue... Pour Into A Plastic Bag Gie And Inhale... *** Pretty Disgusting Though *** 3. Get Some Cough Syrup, Drink... ( You Can Over Dose On This One ) ______________________________________________________________________ More (Y/N/C)? If You Really Wan't Some More Recipes, Call Me, Jimmy'z, And I'll Se What I Can Do... Remember... Don't Abuse These... _____________________________________________________________________ And, Yes, All Of These Are Ligitament... Have Fun Jimmy'z! Enjoy Your File(S). Necessary Information ________________________________________________ 22221 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 12222 2221221221221221221221221221221221221221221222 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 22 __ __ __ __ __ _ __ __ 22 22 | | | |__| | | | | \ |_ |_ 22 22 |__ |__| | |__ |__| |_/ |__ __| 22 oo \[\ oo 22 22 0000000000000 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 0 : 0 222222222222222 Version 1.00 222211111111112 0 F.C.: P.D.0 22 : : : : : 222122222222222222121 IMMMM; 12 0 333 : 333 0 22 : : : : : 222222222122222222221 : : 12 0 : 0 21 : : : : : 222222221222222122221 HMMMM< 12 0 i:i 0 2222222222222222222222222222222221 FCPD 12 0 : 0 2222222222222222222222222222222221 h 12 0 : 0 2222222222222222222222222222221221 12 0000000000000 2212222212222222222222122222222221 12 ~[[\\HM<\/[[~ 2222222221222222222122222222222221 12 _ [[ _____ [[ __ 1111111111111111111111111111111111\\\\\\\\12______ __________________________________________________\ \ \ \____ The following is a list of current codes used by the police and other government agencies. This list was created for the thousands of people who enjoy the hobby of "Scanning". It's purpose is to supply the public with some of the codes that are currently used in So. California. Some agencies may have other types of codes or may use computer transmissions. ** WARNING TO ALL USERS ** It is a federal crime, with severe punishment and/or fines, to 1) Divulge what you hear to anyone who is not a party of the brodcast; 2)To make use of any broadcast information for your own personal gain; 3) To make use of any brodcast information for illegal purposes or to commit a crime. Any such violations may be investigated by the FBI and prosecuted by the U.S. Department of Justice. IS MONITORING YOUR HOBBY? The Radio Communications Monitoring Association is a non-profit organization operated on a volunteer basis by it's members. The monthly newsletter carries articles on monitoring,technical tips, frequency information from all parts of the country, including government, military and aircraft. For More information on monitoring: R C M A P.O. BOX 4563 ANAHEIM, CALIFORNIA 92803 * * * P O L I C E C A L L RADIO GUIDE BY HOLLINS RADIO DATA * PHONETIC ALPHABETS * A-ALPHA J-JULIETTE S-SIERRA B-BRAVO K-KILO T-TANGO C-CHARLIE L-LIMA U-UNIFORM D-DELTA M-MIKE V-VICTOR E-ECHO N-NOVEMBER W-WHISKEY F-FOXTROT O-OSCAR X-X RAY G-GOLF P-PAPA Y-YANKEE H-HOTEL Q-QUEBEC Z-ZULU I-INDIA R-ROMEO A-ADAM J-JOHN S-SAM B-BOY K-KING T-TOM C-CHARLES L-LINCOLN U-UNION D-DAVID M-MARY V-VICTOR E-EDWARD N-NORA W-WILLIAM F-FRANK O-OCEAN X-X RAY G-GEORGE P-PAUL Y-YOUNG H-HENRY Q-QUEEN Z-ZEBRA I-IDA R-ROBERT * DECODE SECTION * 10-1 RECEIVING POORLY 10-2 RECEIVING WELL 10-3 STOP TRANSMITTING 10-4 OK or ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 10-5 RELAY 10-6 BUSY 10-7 OUT OF SERVICE 10-7B OUT OF SERVICE AT HOME 10-8 IN SERVICE 10-9 REPEAT 10-10 OUT OF SERVICE SUBJECT TO CALL 10-11 TRANSMITTING TO RAPIDLY 10-12 OFFICIALS OR VISITORS PRESENT 10-13 WEATHER OR ROAD CONDITIONS 10-14 ESCORT OR CONVOY 10-15 EN ROUTE WITH PRISONER 10-16 PICK UP PRISONER 10-17 PICK UP PAPERS 10-18 COMPLETE PRESENT ASSIGNMENT A.S.A.P. 10-19 RETURN OR RETURNING TO STATION 10-20 WHAT IS YOUR LOCATION? 10-21 CALL YOUR STATION OR DISPATCHER BY TELEPHONE 10-21A ADVISE MY HOME I WILL RETURN AT____. 10-21B CALL YOUR HOME BY TELEPHONE 10-21T REPLY BY TELEPHONE 10-22 CANCEL LAST MESSAGE OR ASSIGNMENT 10-23 STANDBY 10-25 DO YOU HAVE CONTACT WITH _______? 10-27 CHECK "MCAPS" COMPUTER FOR WARRANTS 10-28 REGISTRATION REQUEST 10-28C CHANGE IN OWNERSHIP-CONTACT DMV 10-29 CHECK FOR STOLEN OR WANTED 10-30 NO RECORD OR WANTS YOUR SUBJECT 10-31 SUBJECT HAS RECORD BUT NO WANTS 10-32 SUBJECT WANTED.ARE YOU CLEAR TO COPY? 10-33 STANDBY.EMERGENCY TRAFFIC ONLY 10-34 RESUME NORMAL RADIO TRAFFIC 10-35 CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION 10-36 CORRECT TIME 10-37 NAME OF OPERATOR ON DUTY 10-39 MESSAGE DELIVERED 10-40 IS______AVAILABLE FOR TELEPHONE CALL? 10-40A IS______AVAILABLE FOR RADIO CALL? 10-42 PICK UP OFFICER 10-45 SERVICE YOUR EQUIPMENT 10-46 STANDBY,I AM PROCEEDING TO A BETTER LOCATION 10-48 I AM NOW READY TO TAKE INFORMATION 10-49 PROCEED TO _________ 10-86 TRAFFIC CHECK-DO YOU HAVE TRAFFIC FOR THIS UNIT? 10-87 MEET _______ AT _________ 10-88 WHAT PHONE NUMBER SHALL WE CALL TO MAKE STATION TO STATION CALL? 10-96 REQUEST TEST OF SELECTIVE CALL EQUIPMENT 10-97 ARRIVED AT SCENE 10-98 FINISHED LAST ASSIGNMENT 11350 POSSESION OF DANGEROUS DRUGS OR HEROIN 11357 POSSESION OF MARIJUANA 187 MURDER 207 KIDNAPPING 207A ATTEMPT KIDNAPPING 211 ROBBERY 211S ROBBERY-SILENT ALARM 217 ATTEMPT MURDER 220 ATTEMPT RAPE 240 MISDEMEANOR ASSAULT 242 BATTERY 245 ASSAULT WITH DEADLY WEAPON 261 RAPE 288 LEWD AND LASCIVIOUS CONDUCT 314 INDECENT EXPOSURE 390 DRUNK 390C DRUNK IN AUTO 390D DRUNK DOWN 415 DISTURBING THE PEACE 415A DISTURBING THE PEACE AUTO/S INVOLVED 415E DISTURBING THE PEACE MUSIC OR PARTY 415F DISTURBING THE PEACE FAMILY ROW 415G DISTURBING THE PEACE GANG 415M DISTURBING THE PEACE MECHANICAL OR MISCELLANEOUS 417 MAN WITH A GUN 447 ARSON 459 BURGLAR ALARM 459A BURGLAR ALARM AUDIBLE 459S BURGLAR ALARM SILENT 480 HIT & RUN FELONY 481 HIT & RUN MISDEMEANOR 483 HIT & RUN PARKED VEHICLE 484 THEFT/LARCENY 487 GRAND THEFT 488 PETTY THEFT 502 DRUNK DRIVER 503 STOLEN CAR/MOTORBIKE/MOTORSCOOTER/BOAT 504 CAR TAMPERING OR STRIPPING 505A RECKLESS DRIVER/DRIVING 510 SPEEDING OR RACING VEHICLE 586 ILLEGAL PARKING 594 MALICIOUS MISCHIEF 901 TRAFFIC ACCIDENT,UNKNOWN IF INJURY 901K AMBULANCE DISPATCHED 901N AMBULANCE NEEDED 901Y IS AMBULANCE NEEDED? 901T INJURY TRAFFIC ACCIDENT 902 ACCIDENT, NON TRAFFIC 902H EN ROUTE HOSPITAL 902M MEDICAL AID 902T NON INJURY TRAFFIC ACCIDENT 903 PLANE CRASH 903L LOW FLYING PLANE 904 FIRE 904A FIRE ALARM 904B BOAT FIRE 904C CAR FIRE 904G GRASS FIRE 904I ILLEGAL FIRE OR INCENDIARY 904M TRASH FIRE 904S STRUCTURAL FIRE 905 ANIMAL INFORMATION 905B ANIMAL BITE 905D ANIMAL DEAD 905H ANIMAL IN HEAT 905I ANIMAL INJURED 905R RABIES SUSPECT 905L LOOSE STOCK 905N ANIMAL NOISE 905S STRAY DOG OR CAT 906 RESCUE 906N RESCUE UNIT NEEDED 906K RESCUE UNIT DISPATCHED 907N PARAMEDIC TEAM NEEDED 907K PARAMEDIC TEAM DISPATCHED 907Y IS PARAMEDIC TEAM NEEDED 909 TRAFFIC INFORMATION 909C TRAFFIC CONGESTION/CONTROL 909F TRAFFIC FLARES NEEDED 909T TRAFFIC HAZARD 910 CAN HANDLE CALL 911B CONTACT THE OFFICER 912 ARE WE CLEAR TO/FOR _________? 913 YOU ARE CLEAR TO/FOR _________? 914A ATTEMPT SUICIDE 914C CORONOR NEEDED 914D DOCTOR NEEDED 914H HEART ATTACK 914S SUICIDE 917A ABANDONED VEHICLE 918 MENTAL CASE (SAME AS 5150) 918V VIOLENT MENTAL CASE 919 KEEP THE PEACE 920A MISSING ADULT (18 OR OLDER) 920C MISSING CHILD (13 AND YOUNGER) 920J MISSING JUVENILE (14 TO 17) 920F FOUND CHILD 921 PROWLER 922 ILLEGAL PEDDLING 924 STATION DETAIL 924D STATION DETAIL/DESK 924F FOOD FOR PRISONERS 924R RETURN TO STATION TO FILE 925 SUSPICIOUS PERSON 925C SUSPICIOUS PERSON IN CAR 925V SUSPICIOUS VEHICLE 926 TOW TRUCK NEEDED 926A TOW TRUCK DISPATCHED 927 UNKNOWN TROUBLE 927D INVESTIGATE DEAD BODY 928 FOUND PROPERTY 928B FOUND BICYCLE 929 INVESTIGATE PERSON DOWN 930 SEE THE MAN 931 SEE THE WOMAN 932 OPEN DOOR 933 OPEN WINDOW 949 GASOLINE SPILL 950 BURNING PERMIT 951 NEED FIRE INVETIGATOR 952 REPORT ON CONDITIONS 953 CHECK SMOKE 954 OFF THE AIR AT SCENE 955 FIRE UNDER CONTROL 956 ASSIGNMENT UNFINISHED BUT AVAILABLE FOR DISPATCH TO ANOTHER ASSIGNMENT 957 FIRE OUT ON ARRIVAL 960 CAR STOP, REQUEST FOLLOWUP 960X CAR STOP, EXPEDITE FOLLOWUP, DANGEROUS SUSPECTS 961 CAR STOP, NO FOLLOWUP NEEDED 962 SUBJECT ARMED AND DANGEROUS. ARE YOU CLEAR TO COPY? 965 TAB FOR INTELLIGENCE UNIT. FULL FI 966 SNIPER ACTIVITY 967 OUTLAW MOTORCYCLE MOVEMENT 968 REQUEST RECORD CHECK OF A PERSON 970 ILLEGAL SURFING 971 BOAT OVER 972 BOAT SPEEDING 973 SWIMMER ON BOAT 974 BOAT ADRIFT 975 WRECKAGE ADRIFT 976 OIL SLICK 977 CHECK MOORING LINE 978 VESSAL AGROUND 979 VESSAL SINKING 980 RADIOACTIVE MATERIALS PRESENT OR INVOLVED 981 NEED RADIOLOGICAL MONITORING TEAM 982 BOMB THREAT AT ____________ 983 EXPLOSION AT _____________ 995 RIOT OR MAJOR DISTURBANCE 997 OFFICER NEEDS ASSISTANCE FROM OWN AGENCY UNITS ONLY. URGENT 998 OFFICER INVOLVED IN GUN BATTLE 999 OFFICER NEEDS HELP. ANY UNITS RESPOND. EMERGENCY. * HANDLE CODES * NO CODE HANDLE CALL IN ROTATION CODE 1 ROUTINE. TAKE THIS CALL NEXT CODE 2 URGENT. EXPEDITE, BUT OBEY ALL TRAFFIC LAWS. NO RED LIGHTS/SIREN. CODE 3 EMERGENCY. PROCEED IMMEDIATELY USING RED LIGHT AND SIREN. CODE 4 NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE NEEDED CODE 4A NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE NEEDED, SUSPECT AT LARGE IN AREA. CODE 5 STAKE OUT. OTHER UNITS STAY AWAY UNLESS ORDERED THERE IN RESPONSE TO CALL. CODE 6 OUT FOR INVESTIGATION CODE 7 OUT OF SERVICE TO EAT CODE 7B OUT OF SERVICE TO EAT AT HOME CODE 8 FIRE BOX PULLED CODE 9 JAIL BREAK CODE 12 PATROL YOUR ASSIGNED DISTRICT AND REPORT EXTENT OF DISASTER DAMAGE. CODE 13 ACTIVATE MAJOR DISASTER PLAN TO PERFORM MAJOR DISASTERS DUTIES. CODE 14 RESUME NORMAL OPERATIONS (USED ONLY WITH A CODE 12 OR CODE 13) CODE 20 NOTIFY NEWS MEDIA CODE 20D REQUEST DEPARTMENTAL PHOTOGRAPHER. CODE 99 EMERGENCY SITUATION. EMERGENCY BUTTON IN MOBILE UNIT HAS BEEN DEPRESSED. NO VOICE CONTACT. REMEMBER TO SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL POLICE DEPT. 7/14/87 PARTS ===== All resistors are 1/2 watt.Abbrv. as R1 or R2. ---------------------------------------------- R1 & R2 100,000 ohm's resistors! R3 & R4 500,000 ohm's resistors! ---------------------------------------------- DIODES:D1-D4 Use a 75 PIV BRIDGE RECTIFIER or 4 1N9004's 300 VOLTS. ---------------------------------------------- Capacitors: C1&C2 4700uF electrolytic ---------------------------------------------- TR1-STEP UP TRANSFORMER 55 uH AUDIO ---------------------------------------------- 2 250 volt AC DPST switch ---------------------------------------------- A 9volt RECHARGEABLE/100 volt Neon lamp =L ---------------------------------------------- A 9volt battery clip/MALE-FEMALE RCA JACKS ---------------------------------------------- Some perf board,wire,solder ---------------------------------------------- 9volts in - + / to RCA JACK / |---* *-------------| Use RCA JACK TO HOOK TO A RECHARGER. | sw2 | Run JACK FROM 9V. |----|<-----|<------| | d1 d2 | When battery runs down Recharge it! |----|<-----|<------| | d3 d4 | | | \ / / R1 \ R2 \ / | + | |----|(-------------| | c1 | \ \ / / \ \ | R3 - | R4 |----|(-------------| | c2 L Neon charge light/ Push sw1 to fire when light is on |/ | * *---------| | sw1 | | + n - ======= /\/\/\/ TR1 ======= | | needles or prods | | \|/ \|/ The following is an article from HUSTLER magazine, March 1987. This article is typed in entirely without authorization of HUSTLER magazine however the article strikes on an issue so important in this day of diminishing personal freedoms from an overbearing government that it is felt by this person that all of us who will be faced with this issue should know what is happening and how to beat it. DRUG TESTING: THE COMING OF THE BRAIN POLICE by William John Watkins It sounds insame, but on October 28, 1986, President Reagan signed a bill that will make urine a major industry in the United States. Thousands of Americans will spend 40 hours a week watching other people piss into plastic cups. There will be tens of thousands of urine takers, urine watchers, urine testers, urine cops, urine lawyers and expert medical witnesses specializing in urine, not to mention the urine-cup makers, urine-test makers and the printers of urine-lab test forms. Undoubtedly, community colleges and vocational schools will soon be giving courses in urine watching, gathering, testing, and offering two-year programs with a degree in urine. This would be funny if it wasn't part of a larger trend toward random searches of all kinds. If you've been laughing about it, laugh while you can; the odds are that you are going to be its next victim. Mere innocence will not protect you. If you like a few beers after work, if you smoke cigarettes, if you've ever shared a joint or snorted a line of coke at some weekend party, if you take and recreational drug at all, you could lose your job. If there's anything in your sex life that couldn't be described on prime-time television, if there's anything in your finances you wouldn't want the IRS to see, if there's anything at all in your private life you would not want made public, in fact even if you're one of the tiny minority who uses no drugs and leads a saintly life, there's still a chance you could get fired. The routine use of urinalysis and lie detectors to test workers and job applicants is fast becoming a way of life. More than a quarter of the Fortune 500 companies, including such giants as IBM, General Motors, American Airlines and DuPont, test employees of prospective employees for drug use. At least half are expected to do so by 1988, and the National Football League, the National Hockey League and the National Basketball Association are expected to follow baseball's example and set up centralized drug-testing programs within the next few years. Baseball Commissioner Peter Ueberroth recently suspended seven players, allowing them to play only after they paid a fine of 10% of their salaries for admitted drug use. Things are much tougher in more commonplace businesses, where employees are easier to replace than superstar athletes. A quarter of the companies in a recent poll admitted that they would fire any employees who tested positive. Those are ominous statistics, considering that almost a third of all workers tested at a Conneciticut steel mill registered positive for illegal drugs. If alcohol and nicotine had been included, the plant would probably have had to fire its entire work force and start over. The really frightening statistic is that according to one study performed fo the Centers for Desease Control (CDC), in some labs two thirds of the tests were wrong! If the Presisdent's Commission on Organized Crime has its way, not only all federal employees, but anyone working for the more than 15,000 companies who do business with the government will be routinely tested for drug use. Combined with the drug-testing programs already in place, millions of American workers could be tested for drug use within the next year. Even if the drug-testing companies estimate of 97% accuracy is accepted, thousands of innocent workers will be falsely accused of drug use. If the Connecticut statistics hold true for other companies, millions of Americans will test positive and risk losing their jobs, whether they use drugs at work or not. In the case of marijuana, they will test positive even if they have stropped using the drug as much as sex weeks earlier, and even if they have simply been in the same room where it was being smoked. None of the Constitutional guarantees against unreasonalble search and seizure or against self-incrimination will protect them. Persons testing positive could be fired or forced to enter treatment programs. U. S. District Judge Robert F. Collins has ruled that the U. S. Customs Service's drug-testing program is an unconstitutional violation of rights of privacy and of protections against unreasonable search and seizure and self-incrimination. It remains for the government agency to appeal this decision, which could take the issue all the way to the Supreme Court, a legal body that tends to have a pronounced Reagan Administration bias. Even if the High Court does uphold the right of federal emplyees to urine privacy, this ruling might not apply to piss-curious employers in the private sector. Activists for whiz freedom point out that, while they may in fact financially support it, most Americans do not work for the federal government. The chances of proving your innocence once you have tested positive are practically nonexistent, as Juanita M. Jones, a 49-year-old grandmother of four, discovered. Ms. Jones, a school-bus aide, tested positive for marijuana use during mass urinalysis testing of all school-transportation workers in the District of Columbia. She denied using the drug and produced two negative urinalysis tests of her own to prove her innocence. She was fired anyway. Most test manufacturers advise the use of a second test, costing $50 to $75, to confirm initial positive results on the $20 screening tests. But managers, anxious to save money, generally ignore the advice. Some even use "do it yourself" tests that are even more unreliable than the professional tests. The professional labs are bad enough. In one CDC study some professional lags were wrong 100% of the time, and gave results that would have incriminated innocent people tho-thirds of the time. The reasonfor the large number of errors is the test itself. The most commonly used test, the thin layer chromatography (TLC) test, is intended as a screening prodedure and is conclusive only when the results are negative. If the test is positive, it should be confirmend by another test, the gas chromatography / mass spectometer test, (GC / MS), which can be 100% accurate for some drugs. In the TLC test, drug residues in urine move different distances along a lab plate and turn different colors. Cocaine, for example, migrates farthest from the source, while morphine is one of the weakest travelers. However, some durgs such as Darvon and cocaine tend to travel almost the distance and can lead to a legitimate prescription drug being misidentified as an illegal drug. In addition, the colors the drug residures turn are very difficult to identify. According to Dr. Mohammed Abdel-Rahman, Director of Toxicology at University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey, "The colors can be very confusing." Only highly trained and experienced lab technicians can recognize the subtle differences between some of the shadings, which tend to run together and cause misidentifications. Herbal tea and prescription drugs can trigger false positive results and, according to Dr. John Morgan, professor of biomedical education at CCNY, about 95% of the positive results for amphetamines are due to the misidentification of over the counter nasal decongestants. An even more insidious misidentification occurs in testing for marijuana use. Dr. James Woodford, and Atlanta forensic chemist, claims melanin, which is responsible for the darkness of skin pigment, can break down in urine into a chemical substance that indicates marijuana use. As a result, people with dark skin run a higher risk than those with light skin of being wrongly accused of having used marijuana. They are not the only people who have suffered from false test results. In 1984 the Army notified at least 60,000 soldiers that their positive drug tests may have been wrong because their urine specimens had been mislabeled or contaminated. More than 9,000 soldiers were dishonorabley discharged by the Army before the mix-ups were discovered. Most of the falsely accused are less fortunate. They either have no money to fight the injustice done to them, or they are only job applicants and have no legal grounds to sue, since being refused a job-for any reason-doesn't deprive them of something they already had. Motivations for drug testing vary. According to Dupont's vice president of safety, health and environmental affairs, Kr. Bruce W. Karrh, "DuPont has an obligation to provide a safe and healthy workplace. The intent is not to terminate people; the intent is to get them into treatment." Altruistic motives notwithstanding, Chicago labor lawyer Mark Juster's assessment may be more to the point. "If you've got a drug or alcohol problem in your factory," Juster says, "it's a good bet you're losing money." The loss of money through absenteeism, accidents and decreased productivity. is a major motivator for drug testing, according to Peter B. Bensinger, former director of the Drug Enforcement Administration. Said Bensinger, "If somebody smokes pot on a Saturday night, it's the employer's business Monday morning. It's the company's problem if its absentee reate is 2 and 1/2 times higher, and the medical costs are out of sight. Drug testing seems like an easy way to solve thes problems; except that the tests measure not what was done Saturday night, but what may have been done days or weeks before. The chemical residues of cocaine, heroin and PCP are still present in the urine three to four days after use. Marijuana, which stays in the body's fat cells, can be detected up to six weeks after use. Even accurate urinalysis can demonstrate only that a person has sused one of these drugs, not that they used them on the job. A more accurate way of determining on-the-job drug use is the Alcohol Drug Motosensory Impairment Machine. The ADMIT machine, invented by Dr. S. Thomas Westerman, a New Jersey ear, nose and throat doctor, measures brain waves to determine if the employee is under the influence of alcohol, marijuana, cocaine, diazepan, barbiturates or opiates, or any combination of these drugs. If any testing is to be done, the ADMIT machine is probably the best method. It is accurate; nobady has to follow anybody into the toilet; it is not painful like a blood test; there are no samples to be mishandled or mislabeled; and it does not test what the employee did on his weekend, only if he is under the influence of drugs at the moment. Moreover, it is inexpensive at $7 per test, and its results are immediate. The big problem with the ADMIT machine is that it will encourage even more drug testing, which is in violation of the Constitutional guarantee against being subjected to unreasonable search and seizure. The founding fathers were familiar with the occupational paranoia of cops, and made it illegal to search everybody who comes along on the off chance that one of them has soething to hide. "Drug testing," according to the Ohio ACLU's associate director, Mark levy, "throws a dragnet over a vast number of innocent people, under the guise that a few who are not innocent will be found out." In addition, random drug testing violates two basic principles of American law. The first is the assumption that you are innocent until proven guilty. Moreover, random drug testing not only assumes that you are guilty until you take a test to prove your innocence, it requires that you give evidence against yourself if you are guilty, something even traitors, ax murderers and child molesters are not required to do. On the surface it appears that the Constitutional guarantee against self-incrimination is being violated by every business conducting random drug test. For example, when the Nicor Drilling Company of Wheatland, Oklahoma, fired three of its 200 workers for refusing to take drug tests, it would seem to have violated their rights against self-incrimination. Yet it did nothing illegal. According to Douglas Laycock, associate dean of the University of Texas law school, "With a couple of exceptions, the Constitution regulates what the government can do; it doesn't regulate what private citizens can co. A private employer can impose whatever requirements he can get away with." These legal invasions of privacy have no limit. Illegal drugs that could get you fired. Alcoholism causes more absenteeism, higher medical bills and poorer work quality than any other ailment. Alcoholics make up 10% to 15% of the work force. The National Council on Alcohlism estimates that addicted workers lose a quarter of their productivity and cost employers 25% of their annual salary in absenteeism, sick leave, accidents, and health and disability payments. The extra 50% the employer of sober workers gets in reduced costs and increased productivity is pure profit. Since Constitutional protections apparently stop at the plant gate, employers are not likely to be any more lenient with employees who drink and work than the state with citizens who drink and drive. Nor are you likely to be treated any fairer if you are addicted to what the National Institure on Drug Abuse ranks as the most lethal and addictive of all drugs - nicotine. Since 25% of all deaths are directly related to smoking, while on 5% are related to alcohol and 1% or 2% to the abuse of other addictive substances, an all-out attack on smoking can be expected in the workplace. It has already begun in military offices, barracks, vehicles and aircraft. The reasons sound remarkably like what has been said about the dangers of illegal drugs. "Smoking tobacco," according to the Department of the Army, "harms readiness by impairing physical fitness and by increasing illness, absenteeism, premature death and health-care costs." If the company you work for can keep you from having a cigarette on your break or a few too many beets after work, no part of your private life is safe. Corporations are already testing workers for exposure to the AIDS virus, and other venereal diseases may become cause for firing. Companies have already fired workers for their sex lives. In November, 1981, the United Parcel Service fired Jon Slhoda on the grounds that he committing adultery because he was living with a female co-worker while separated from his wife. By extension, any of your recreations could become the concern of your employer. Employee theft costs companies more a year than drugs do, and unsuccessful gambling certainly gives an employee a motive to steal, give away trade secrets or sabotage production. Faced with such threats in the past, many corporations have turned to the use of a technology that almost makes drug testing look practical - the polygraph. Two million people a year are given polygraph tests, and 98% of them, according to psychologist Benjamin Kleinmuntz of the University of Illinois at Chicago, are given by private companies to employees. The number of employment ploygraph examinations has tripled in the past ten years. There is evidence that the polygraph's chief use is to intimidate people into confessing. As Boston University psychology professor Leonard Saxe, who investigated polygraphs for the Office of Technology assessment, said, "A good examiner scares the crap out of you. It's theater." The polygraph is even more inaccurate that urinalysis. Dr. John H. Gibbons, director of the Congressional Office of Technology Assessment, said after his study of the polygraph, found that it called truthful people liars more than half the time. The government's claim that the test is 98% accurate is based on what has got to be the world record for guilibility. The figures came from a study of questionnaires sent to polygraphers in Virginia, asking them how many of the tests they gave in the past year turned out to be correct. Nobody at the Pentagon, of course, considered subjecting the polygraphers to a lie detector test. Nor is the polygraph the worst of the assaults on worker privacy. Companies have set up hidden video cameras, searched lockers and cars, frisked workers on their way into work, hired undercover agents to pose as workers and even threatened to use dope-sniffing dogs. Now U. S. Attorney Thomas Greelish wants the government to bave access to your personal banking records on the grounds that the public has the right to be protected against drug users. The hysteria surrounding the use of drugs in America is so intense that the Marlboro Township, New Jersey, school board proposed the adoption of a procedure for conducting strip-searches of kindergarten children. Chances are your employer is caught up in that same hysteria. If he is, the cup's smaller than it looks; so try not to piss on your fingers. HOW TO BEAT THE DRUG TEST AND WHAT TO DO IF YOU DON'T The first thing to do is to find out as much as you can about your situation. Ask if you will be fired if you refuse to take the test. Find out whether your union or another organized support group will back you with legal assistance if you refuse and are fired. Find out what type of test is going to be used and whether a secondary test will be used to confirm the first. Find out if your company fires employees who test positive or if, like many companies, it has a rehabilitation program. If you are one of the millions who use drugs regularly and you are sure you'll fail the test, there are a few things you can do. If you are going to be fired anyway, refuse the test and take your case to the American Civil Liberties Union. They are strongly opposed to random drug testing, but that doesn't mean they'll take your case. If your company has a rehabilitation program and doesn't fire first offenders, take the test. If you take the test, there are a few things you can do to pass it, but none are foolproof. Most tests are for more likely to see drugs that aren't there than to miss drugs that are. To get a false negative for a marijuana test, it may help to drink lots of water the day before urinalysis. Empth the bladder early on the day of the test and fill the bladder again at least an hour before the test. Drinking diluted vinegar may help to speed up the body's elimination of cocaine. If that doesn't work, your best bet is to contaminate the sample so the test results will be ambiguous and you can challenge their validity in court. The best legal issues are not the Constitutional ones, but challenges based on contamination or misidentification of the sample, the set of standards used int the test, the efficiency of the equipment and the competence of the testers. The easiest way to contaminate the sample is to add salt to it, including sweat. A sliver is of soap deposited underneath the fingernail and held in the stream of urine may contaminate the sample enough to disqualify it. Foreigh substances in the sample will give a lawyer an opening to challenge the test results. The best way to beat a drug test is not to have to take it. Your best defense is your union, if you have one. Make sure that a clause allowing random drug testing is not included in your contract or any future contract. If your union leaders feel drug testing is negotiable, encourage them to make sure that it's not random and that it leads to a rehabilitation program and not firing. Your local legislator is anouther source of prevention. Oregon, Maine, Maryland and California are considering legislation to restrict or eliminate drug testing by private industry. Voice your opinion to your state legislator. Letters to congressmen could also have an impact, especially to Representative Don Edwards (Democrat, California), Chairman of the Subcommittee on Civil and Constitutional Rights. Stress the issue of unreasonable search and ask what you can do to help prevent random drug testing. This will encourage your representatives to respond specifically to your letter. Have the letter typed if at all possible; the most reasoned argument in the world has little impact if it's written in crayon on yellow paper with wide lines. Title: Everyday Brainwashing Pt1 (14/18) From: Tom Betz (ID=70) Date: Tue Apr 07 09:02:08 1987 Dick Sutphen is a professional hypnotist who makes a good portion of his living training other professional hypnotists... and another good portion selling tapes of his lectures and "subliminal learning" tapes to help people with their problems. This file is a transcript of a taped lecture with information he felt was important enough that he asked for it to be as widely disseminated as possible, at NO CHARGE. I found it on Illumi-Net in Decatur GA, and it hit me where I live, so I ask that all who read it pass it along as widely as possible. I have broken it up into four parts... please be sure that all four are printed, uploaded, etc. together, so that none of the information is lost, for it is all VITAL! It could mean the return of free thought to this nation, or the end of it. Status: Prompted (ascii) 12974 Bytes (102 Packets) Transfer time: 1:48 <> ---------------------- ParaNet KAPPA: Illumi-Net Decatur, GA Ron Bonds Sysop 404-377-1141 All Topics; Conspiracy Theories ---------------------- <> <> <> THE BATTLE FOR YOUR MIND, by Dick Sutphen -- 22.2 KB Persuasion & Brainwashing Techniques Being Used On The Public Today SUMMARY OF CONTENTS The Birth of Conversion/Brainwashing in Christian Revivalism in 1735. The Pavlovian explanation of the three brain phases. Born-again preachers: Step-by-Step, how they conduct a revival and the expected physiological results. The "voice roll" technique used by preachers, lawyers and hypnotists. New trance-inducing churches. The 6 steps to conversion. The decognition process. Thought-stopping techniques. The "sell it by zealot" technique. True believers and mass movements. Persuasion techniques: "Yes set," "Imbedded Commands," "Shock and Confusion," and the "Interspersal Technique." Subliminals. Vibrato and ELF waves. Inducing trance with vibrational sound. Even professional observers will be "possessed" at charismatic gatherings. The "only hope" technique to attend and not be converted. Non-detectable Neurophone programming through the skin. The medium for mass take-over. I'm Dick Sutphen and this tape is a studio-recorded, expanded version of a talk I delivered at the World Congress of Professional Hypnotists Convention in Las Vegas, Nevada. Although the tape carries a copyright to protect it from unlawful duplication for sale by other companies, in this case, I invite individuals to make copies and give them to friends or anyone in a position to communicate this information. Although I've been interviewed about the subject on many local and regional radio and TV talk shows, large-scale mass communication appears to be blocked, since it could result in suspicion or investigation of the very media presenting it or the sponsors that support the media. Some government agencies do not want this information generally known. Nor do the Born-Again Christian movement, cults, and many human-potential trainings. Everything I will relate only exposes the surface of the problem. I don't know how the misuse of these techniques can be stopped. I don't think it is possible to legislate against that which often cannot be detected; and if those who legislate are using these techniques, there is little hope of affecting laws to govern usage. I do know that the first step to initiate change is to generate interest. In this case, that will probably only result from an underground effort. In talking about this subject, I am talking about my own business. I know it, and I know how effective it can be. I produce hypnosis and subliminal tapes and, in some of my seminars, I use conversion tactics to assist participants to become independent and self-sufficient. But, anytime I use these techniques, I point out that I am using them, and those attending have a choice to participate or not. They also know what the desired result of participation will be. So, to begin, I want to state the most basic of all facts about brainwashing: IN THE ENTIRE HISTORY OF MAN, NO ONE HAS EVER BEEN BRAINWASHED AND REALIZED, OR BELIEVED, THAT HE HAD BEEN BRAINWASHED. Those who have been brainwashed will usually passionately defend their manipulators, claiming they have simply been "shown the light" . . . or have been transformed in miraculous ways. The Birth of Conversion CONVERSION is a "nice" word for BRAINWASHING . . . and any study of brainwashing has to begin with a study of Christian revivalism in eighteenth century America. Apparently, Jonathan Edwards accidentally discovered the techniques during a religious crusade in 1735 in Northampton, Massachusetts. By inducing guilt and acute apprehension and by increasing the tension, the "sinners" attending his revival meetings would break down and completely submit. Technically, what Edwards was doing was creating conditions that wipe the brain slate clean so that the mind accepts new programming. The problem was that the new input was negative. He would tell them, "You're a sinner! You're destined for hell!" As a result, one person committed suicide and another attempted suicide. And the neighbors of the suicidal converts related that they, too, were affected so deeply that, although they had found "eternal salvation," they were obsessed with a diabolical temptation to end their own lives. Once a preacher, cult leader, manipulator or authority figure creates the brain phase to wipe the brain-slate clean, his subjects are wide open. New input, in the form of suggestion, can be substituted for their previous ideas. Because Edwards didn't turn his message positive until the end of the revival, many accepted the negative suggestions and acted, or desired to act, upon them. Charles J. Finney was another Christian revivalist who used the same techniques four years later in mass religious conversions in New York. The techniques are still being used today by Christian revivalists, cults, human-potential trainings, some business rallies, and the United States Armed Services . . . to name just a few. Let me point out here that I don't think most revivalist preachers realize or know they are using brainwashing techniques. Edwards simply stumbled upon a technique that really worked, and others copied it and have continued to copy it for over two hundred years. And the more sophisticated our knowledge and technology become, the more effective the conversion. I feel strongly that this is one of the major reasons for the increasing rise in Christian fundamentalism, especially the televised variety, while most of the orthodox religions are declining. The Three Brain Phases The Christians may have been the first to successfully formulate brainwashing, but we have to look to Pavlov, the Russian scientist, for a technical explanation. In the early 1900s, his work with animals opened the door to further investigations with humans. After the revolution in Russia, Lenin was quick to see the potential of applying Pavlov's research to his own ends. Three distinct and progressive states of transmarginal inhibition were identified by Pavlov. The first is the EQUIVALENT phase, in which the brain gives the same response to both strong and weak stimuli. The second is the PARADOXICAL phase, in which the brain responds more actively to weak stimuli than to strong. And the third is the ULTRA-PARADOXICAL phase, in which conditioned responses and behavior patterns turn from positive to negative or from negative to positive. With the progression through each phase, the degree of conversion becomes more effective and complete. The way to achieve conversion are many and varied, but the usual first step in religious or political brainwashing is to work on the emotions of an individual or group until they reach an abnormal level of anger, fear, exitement, or nervous tension. The progressive result of this mental condition is to impair judgement and increase suggestibility. The more this condition can be maintained or intensified, the more it compounds. Once catharsis, or the first brain phase, is reached, the complete mental takeover becomes easier. Existing mental programming can be replaced with new patterns of thinking and behavior. Other often-used physiological weapons to modify normal brain functions are fasting, radical or high sugar diets, physical discomforts, regulation of breathing, mantra chanting in meditation, the disclosure of awesome mysteries, special lighting and sound effects, programmed response to incense, or intoxicating drugs. The same results can be obtained in contemporary psychiatric treatment by electric shock treatments and even by purposely lowering a person's blood sugar level with insulin injections. Before I talk about exactly how some of the techniques are applied, I want to point out that hypnosis and conversion tactics are two distinctly different things--and that conversion techniques are far more powerful. However, the two are often mixed . . . with powerful results. How Revivalist Preachers Work If you'd like to see a revivalist preacher at work, there are probably several in your city. Go to the church or tent early and sit in the rear, about three-quarters of the way back. Most likely repetitive music will be played while the people come in for the service. A repetitive beat, ideally ranging from 45 to 72 beats per minute (a rhythm close to the beat of the human heart), is very hypnotic and can generate an eyes-open altered state of consciousness in a very high percentage of people. And, once you are in an alpha state, you are at least 25 times as suggestible as you would be in full beta consciousness. The music is probably the same for every service, or incorporates the same beat, and many of the people will go into an altered state almost immediately upon entering the sanctuary. Subconsciously, they recall their state of mind from previous services and respond according to the post-hypnotic programming. Watch the people waiting for the service to begin. Many will exhibit external signs of trance--body relaxation and slightly dilated eyes. Often, they begin swaying back and forth with their hands in the air while sitting in their chairs. Next, the assistant pastor will probably come out. He usually speaks with a pretty good "voice roll." Voice Roll Technique A "voice roll" is a patterned, paced style used by hypnotists when inducing a trance. It is also used by many lawyers, several of whom are highly trained hypnotists, when they desire to entrench a point firmly in the minds of the jurors. A voice roll can sound as if the speaker were talking to the beat of a metronome or it may sound as though he were emphasizing every word in a monotonous, patterned style. The words will usually be delivered at the rate of 45 to 60 beats per minute, maximizing the hypnotic effect. Now the assistant pastor begins the "build-up" process. He induces an altered state of consciousness and/or begins to generate the excitement and the expectations of the audience. Next, a group of young women in "sweet and pure" chiffon dresses might come out to sing a song. Gospel songs are great for building excitement and INVOLVEMENT. In the middle of the song, one of the girls might be "smitten by the spirit" and fall down or react as if possessed by the Holy Spirit. This very effectively increases the intensity in the room. At this point, hypnosis and conversion tactics are being mixed. And the result is the audience's attention span is now totally focused upon the communication while the environment becomes more exciting or tense. Right about this time, when an eyes-open mass-induced alpha mental state has been achieved, they will usually pass the collection plate or basket. In the background, a 45-beat-per-minute voice roll from the assistant preacher might exhort, "Give to God . . . Give to God . . . Give to God . . ." And the audience does give. God may not get the money, but his already wealthy representative will. Next, the fire-and-brimstone preacher will come out. He induces fear and increases the tension by talking about "the devil," "going to hell," or the forthcoming Armegeddon. In the last such rally I attended, the preacher talked about the blood that would soon be running out of every faucet in the land. He was also obsessed with a "bloody axe of God," which everyone had seen hanging above the pulpit the previous week. I have no doubt that everyone saw it--the power of suggestion given to hundreds of people in hypnosis assures that at least 10 to 25 percent would see whatever he suggested they see. In most revivalist gatherings, "testifying" or "witnessing" usually follows the fear-based sermon. People from the audience come up on stage and relate their stories. "I was crippled and now I can walk!" "I had arthritis and now it's gone!" It is a psychological manipulation that works. After listening to numerous case histories of miraculous healings, the average guy in the audience with a minor problem is sure he can be healed. The room is charged with fear, guilt, intense excitement, and expectations. Now those who want to be healed are frequently lined up around the edge of the room, or they are told to come down to the front. The preacher might touch them on the head firmly and scream, "Be healed!" This releases the psychic energy and, for many, catharsis results. Catharsis is a purging of repressed emotions. Individuals might cry, fall down or even go into spasms. And if catharsis is effected, they stand a chance of being healed. In catharsis (one of the three brain phases mentioned earlier), the brain-slate is temporarily wiped clean and the new suggestion is accepted. For some, the healing may be permanent. For many, it will last four days to a week, which is, incidentally, how long a hypnotic suggestion given to a somnambulistic subject will usually last. Even if the healing doesn't last, if they come back every week, the power of suggestion may continually override the problem . . . or sometimes, sadly, it can mask a physical problem which could prove to be very detrimental to the individule in the long run. I'm not saying that legitimate healings do not take place. They do. Maybe the individual was ready to let go of the negativity that caused the problem in the first place; maybe it was the work of God. Yet I contend that it can be explained with existing knowledge of brain/mind function. The techniques and staging will vary from church to church. Many use "speaking in tongues" to generate catharsis in some while the spectacle creates intense excitement in the observers. The use of hypnotic techniques by religions is sophisticated, and professionals are assuring that they become even more effective. A man in Los Angeles is designing, building, and reworking a lot of churches around the country. He tells ministers what they need and how to use it. This man's track record indicates that the congregation and the monetary income will double if the minister follows his instructions. He admits that about 80 percent of his efforts are in the sound system and lighting. Powerful sound and the proper use of lighting are of primary importance in inducing an altered state of consciousnes--I've been using them for years in my own seminars. However, my participants are fully aware of the process and what they can expect as a result of their participation. Six Conversion Techniques Cults and human-potential organizations are always looking for new converts. To attain them, they must also create a brain-phase. And they often need to do it within a short space of time--a weekend, or maybe even a day. The following are the six primary techniques used to generate the conversion. The meeting or training takes place in an area where participants are cut off from the outside world. This may be any place: a private home, a remote or rural setting, or even a hotel ballroom where the participants are allowed only limited bathroom usage. In human-potential trainings, the controllers will give a lengthy talk about the importance of "keeping agreements" in life. The participants are told that if they don't keep agreements, their life will never work. It's a good idea to keep agreements, but the controllers are subverting a positive human value for selfish purposes. The participants vow to themselves and their trainer that they will keep their agreements. Anyone who does not will be intimidated into agreement or forced to leave. The next step is to agree to complete training, thus assuring a high percentage of conversions for the organizations. They will USUALLY have to agree not to take drugs, smoke, and sometimes not to eat . . . or they are given such short meal breaks that it creates tension. The real reason for the agreements is to alter internal chemistry, which generates anxiety and hopefully causes at least a slight malfunction of the nervous system, which in turn increases the conversion potential. Before the gathering is complete, the agreements will be used to ensure that the new converts go out and find new participants. They are intimidated into agreeing to do so before they leave. Since the importance of keeping agreements is so high on their priority list, the converts will twist the arms of everyone they know, attempting to talk them into attending a free introductory session offered at a future date by the organization. The new converts are zealots. In fact, the inside term for merchandising the largest and most successful human-potential training is, "sell it by zealot!" At least a million people are graduates and a good percentage have been left with a mental activation button that assures their future loyalty and assistance if the guru figure or organization calls. Think about the potential political implications of hundreds of thousands of zealots programmed to campaign for their guru. Be wary of an organization of this type that offers follow-up sessions after the seminar. Follow-up sessions might be weekly meetings or inexpensive seminars given on a regular basis which the organization will attempt to talk you into taking--or any regularly scheduled event used to maintain control. As the early Christian revivalists found, long-term control is dependent upon a good follow-up system. Alright. Now, let's look at the second tip-off that indicates conversion tactics are being used. A schedule is maintained that causes physical and mental fatigue. This is primarily accomplished by long hours in which the participants are given no opportunity for relaxation or reflection. The third tip-off: techniques used to increase the tension in the room or environment. Number four: Uncertainty. I could spend hours relating various techniques to increase tension and generate uncertainty. Basically, the participants are concerned about being "put on the spot" or encountered by the trainers, guilt feelings are played upon, participants are tempted to verbally relate their innermost secrets to the other participants or forced to take part in activities that emphasize removing their masks. One of the most successful human-potential seminars forces the participants to stand on a stage in front of the entire audience while being verbally attacked by the trainers. A public opinion poll, conducted a few years ago, showed that the number one most-fearful situation an individual could encounter is to speak to an audience. It ranked above window washing outside the 85th floor of an office building. So you can imagine the fear and tension this situation generates within the participants. Many faint, but most cope with the stress by mentally going away. They literally go into an alpha state, which automatically makes them many times as suggestible as they normally are. And another loop of the downward spiral into conversion is successfully effected. The fifth clue that conversion tactics are being used is the introduction of jargon--new terms that have meaning only to the "insiders" who participate. Vicious language is also frequently used, purposely, to make participants uncomfortable. The final tip-off is that there is no humor in the communications . . . at least until the participants are converted. Then, merry-making and humor are highly desirable as symbols of the new joy the participants have supposedly "found." I'm not saying that good does not result from participation in such gatherings. It can and does. But I contend it is important for people to know what has happened and to be aware that continual involvement may not be in their best interest. Over the years, I've conducted professional seminars to teach people to be hypnotists, trainers, and counselors. I've had many of those who conduct trainings and rallies come to me and say, "I'm here because I know that what I'm doing works, but I don't know why." After showing them how and why, many have gotten out of the business or have decided to approach it differently or in a much more loving and supportive manner. Many of these trainers have become personal friends, and it scares us all to have experienced the power of one person with a microphone and a room full of people. Add a little charisma and you can count on a high percentage of conversions. The sad truth is that a high percentage of people want to give away their power--they are true "believers"! Cult gatherings or human-potential trainings are an ideal environment to observe first-hand what is technically called the "Stockholm Syndrome." This is a situation in which those who are intimidated, controlled, or made to suffer, begin to love, admire, and even sometimes sexually desire their controllers or captors. But let me inject a word of warning here: If you think you can attend such gatherings and not be affected, you are probably wrong. A perfect example is the case of a woman who went to Haiti on a Guggenheim Fellowship to study Haitian Voodoo. In her report, she related how the music eventually induced uncontrollable bodily movement and an altered state of consciousness. Although she understood the process and thought herself above it, when she began to feel herself become vulnerable to the music, she attempted to fight it and turned away. Anger or resistance almost always assures conversion. A few moments later she was possessed by the music and began dancing in a trance around the Voodoo meeting house. A brain phase had been induced by the music and excitement, and she awoke feeling reborn. The only hope of attending such gatherings without being affected is to be a Buddha and allow no positive or negative emotions to surface. Few people are capable of such detachment. Before I go on, let's go back to the six tip-offs to conversion. I want to mention the United States Government and military boot camp. The Marine Corps talks about breaking men down before "rebuilding" them as new men--as marines! Well, that is exactly what they do, the same way a cult breaks its people down and rebuilds them as happy flower sellers on your local street corner. Every one of the six conversion techniques are used in boot camp. Considering the needs of the military, I'm not making a judgement as to whether that is good or bad. IT IS A FACT that the men are effectively brainwashed. Those who won't submit must be discharged or spend much of their time in the brig. Decognition Process Once the initial conversion is effected, cults, armed services, and similar groups cannot have cynicism among their members. Members must respond to commands and do as they are told, otherwise they are dangerous to the organizational control. This is normally accomplished as a three-step Decognition Process. Step One is ALERTNESS REDUCTION: The controllers cause the nervous system to malfunction, making it difficult to distinguish between fantasy and reality. This can be accomplished in several ways. POOR DIET is one; watch out for Brownies and Koolaid. The sugar throws the nervous system off. More subtle is the "SPIRITUAL DIET" used by many cults. They eat only vegetables and fruits; without the grounding of grains, nuts, seeds, dairy products, fish or meat, an individual becomes mentally "spacey." INADEQUATE SLEEP is another primary way to reduce alertness, especially when combined with long hours of work or intense physical activity. Also, being bombarded with intense and unique experiences achieves the same result. Step Two is PROGRAMMED CONFUSION: You are mentally assaulted while your alertness is being reduced as in Step One. This is accomplished with a deluge of new information, lectures, discussion groups, encounters or one-to-one processing, which usually amounts to the controller bombarding the individual with questions. During this phase of decognition, reality and illusion often merge and perverted logic is likely to be accepted. Step Three is THOUGHT STOPPING: Techniques are used to cause the mind to go "flat." These are altered-state-of-consciousness techniques that initially induce calmness by giving the mind something simple to deal with and focusing awareness. The continued use brings on a feeling of elation and eventually hallucination. The result is the reduction of thought and eventually, if used long enough, the cessation of all thought and withdrawal from everyone and everything except that which the controllers direct. The takeover is then complete. It is important to be aware that when members or participants are instructed to use "thought-stopping" techniques, they are told that they will benefit by so doing: they will become "better soldiers" or "find enlightenment." There are three primary techniques used for thought stopping. The first is MARCHING: the thump, thump, thump beat literally generates self-hypnosis and thus great susceptibility to suggestion. The second thought stopping technique is MEDITATION. If you spend an hour to an hour and a half a day in meditation, after a few weeks, there is a great probability that you will not return to full beta consciousness. You will remain in a fixed state of alpha for as long as you continue to meditate. I'm not saying this is bad--if you do it yourself. It may be very beneficial. But it is a fact that you are causing your mind to go flat. I've worked with meditators on an EEG machine and the results are conclusive: the more you meditate, the flatter your mind becomes until, eventually and especially if used to excess or in combination with decognition, all thought ceases. Some spiritual groups see this as nirvana--which is bullshit. It is simply a predictable physiological result. And if heaven on earth is non-thinking and non-involvement, I really question why we are here. The third thought-stopping technique is CHANTING, and often chanting in meditation. "Speaking in tongues" could also be included in this category. All three stopping techniques produce an altered state of consciousness. This may be very good if YOU are controlling the process, for you also control the input. I personally use at least one self-hypnosis programming session every day and I know how beneficial it is for me. But you need to know if you use these techniques to the degree of remaining continually in alpha that, although you'll be very mellow, you'll also be more suggestible. True Believers & Mass Movements Before ending this section on conversion, I want to talk about the people who are most susceptible to it and about Mass Movements. I am convinced that at least a third of the population is what Eric Hoffer calls "true believers." They are joiners and followers . . . people who want to give away their power. They look for answers, meaning, and enlightenment outside themselves. Hoffer, who wrote THE TRUE BELIEVER, a classic on mass movements, says, "true believers are not intent on bolstering and advancing a cherished self, but are those craving to be rid of unwanted self. They are followers, not because of a desire for self-advancement, but because it can satisfy their passion for self-renunciation!" Hoffer also says that true believers "are eternally incomplete and eternally insecure"! I know this from my own experience. In my years of communicating concepts and conducting trainings, I have run into them again and again. All I can do is attempt to show them that the only thing to seek is the True Self within. Their personal answers are to be found there and there alone. I communicate that the basics of spirituality are self-responsibility and self-actualization. But most of the true believers just tell me that I'm not spiritual and go looking for someone who will give them the dogma and structure they desire. Never underestimate the potential danger of these people. They can easily be molded into fanatics who will gladly work and die for their holy cause. It is a substitute for their lost faith in themselves and offers them as a substitute for individual hope. The Moral Majority is made up of true believers. All cults are composed of true believers. You'll find them in politics, churches, businesses, and social cause groups. They are the fanatics in these organizations. Mass Movements will usually have a charismatic leader. The followers want to convert others to their way of living or impose a new way of life--if necessary, by legislating laws forcing others to their view, as evidenced by the activities of the Moral Majority. This means enforcement by guns or punishment, for that is the bottomline in law enforcement. A common hatred, enemy, or devil is essential to the success of a mass movement. The Born-Again Christians have Satan himself, but that isn't enough--they've added the occult, the New Age thinkers and, lately, all those who oppose their integration of church and politics, as evidenced in their political reelection campaigns against those who oppose their views. In revolutions, the devil is usually the ruling power or aristocracy. Some human-potential movements are far too clever to ask their graduates to join anything, thus labeling themselves as a cult--but, if you look closely, you'll find that their devil is anyone and everyone who hasn't taken their training. There are mass movements without devils but they seldom attain major status. The True Believers are mentally unbalanced or insecure people, or those without hope or friends. People don't look for allies when they love, but they do when they hate or become obsessed with a cause. And those who desire a new life and a new order feel the old ways must be eliminated before the new order can be built. Persuasion Techniques Persuasion isn't technically brainwashing but it is the manipulation of the human mind by another individual, without the manipulated party being aware what caused his opinion shift. I only have time to very basically introduce you to a few of the thousands of techniques in use today, but the basis of persuasion is always to access your RIGHT BRAIN. The left half of your brain is analytical and rational. The right side is creative and imaginative. That is overly simplified but it makes my point. So, the idea is to distract the left brain and keep it busy. Ideally, the persuader generates an eyes-open altered state of consciousness, causing you to shift from beta awareness into alpha; this can be measured on an EEG machine. First, let me give you an example of distracting the left brain. Politicians use these powerful techniques all the time; lawyers use many variations which, I've been told, they call "tightening the noose." Assume for a moment that you are watching a politician give a speech. First, he might generate what is called a "YES SET." These are statements that will cause listeners to agree; they might even unknowingly nod their heads in agreement. Next come the TRUISMS. These are usually facts that could be debated but, once the politician has his audience agreeing, the odds are in the politician's favor that the audience won't stop to think for themselves, thus continuing to agree. Last comes the SUGGESTION. This is what the politician wants you to do and, since you have been agreeing all along, you could be persuaded to accept the suggestion. Now, if you'll listen closely to my political speech, you'll find that the first three are the "yes set," the next three are truisms and the last is the suggestion. "Ladies and gentlemen: are you angry about high food prices? Are you tired of astronomical gas prices? Are you sick of out-of-control inflation? Well, you know the Other Party allowed 18 percent inflation last year; you know crime has increased 50 percent nationwide in the last 12 months, and you know your paycheck hardly covers your expenses any more. Well, the answer to resolving these problems is to elect me, John Jones, to the U.S. Senate." And I think you've heard all that before. But you might also watch for what are called Imbedded Commands. As an example: On key words, the speaker would make a gesture with his left hand, which research has shown is more apt to access your right brain. Today's media-oriented politicians and spellbinders are often carefully trained by a whole new breed of specialist who are using every trick in the book--both old and new--to manipulate you into accepting their candidate. The concepts and techniques of Neuro-Linguistics are so heavily protected that I found out the hard way that to even talk about them publicly or in print results in threatened legal action. Yet Neuro-Linguistic training is readily available to anyone willing to devote the time and pay the price. It is some of the most subtle and powerful manipulation I have yet been exposed to. A good friend who recently attended a two-week seminar on Neuro-Linguistics found that many of those she talked to during the breaks were government people. Another technique that I'm just learning about is unbelievably slippery; it is called an INTERSPERSAL TECHNIQUE and the idea is to say one thing with words but plant a subconscious impression of something else in the minds of the listeners and/or watchers. Let me give you an example: Assume you are watching a television commentator make the following statement: SENATOR JOHNSON is assisting local authorities to clear up the stupid mistakes of companies contributing to the nuclear waste problems." It sounds like a statement of fact, but, if the speaker emphasizes the right word, and especially if he makes the proper hand gestures on the key words, you could be left with the subconscious impression that Senator Johnson is stupid. That was the subliminal goal of the statement and the speaker cannot be called to account for anything. Persuasion techniques are also frequently used on a much smaller scale with just as much effectiveness. The insurance salesman knows his pitch is likely to be much more effective if he can get you to visualize something in your mind. This is right-brain communication. For instance, he might pause in his conversation, look slowly around your livingroom and say, "Can you just imagine this beautiful home burning to the ground?" Of course you can! It is one of your unconscious fears and, when he forces you to visualize it, you are more likely to be manipulated into signing his insurance policy. The Hare Krishnas, operating in every airport, use what I call SHOCK AND CONFUSION techniques to distract the left brain and communicate directly with the right brain. While waiting for a plane, I once watched one operate for over an hour. He had a technique of almost jumping in front of someone. Initially, his voice was loud then dropped as he made his pitch to take a book and contribute money to the cause. Usually, when people are shocked, they immediately withdraw. In this case they were shocked by the strange appearance, sudden materialization and loud voice of the Hare Krishna devotee. In other words, the people went into an alpha state for security because they didn't want to confront the reality before them. In alpha, they were highly suggestible so they responded to the suggestion of taking the book; the moment they took the book, they felt guilty and responded to the second suggestion: give money. We are all conditioned that if someone gives us something, we have to give them something in return--in that case, it was money. While watching this hustler, I was close enough to notice that many of the people he stopped exhibited an outward sign of alpha--their eyes were actually dilated. Subliminal Programming Subliminals are hidden suggestions that only your subconscious perceives. They can be audio, hidden behind music, or visual, airbrushed into a picture, flashed on a screen so fast that you don't consciously see them, or cleverly incorporated into a picture or design. Most audio subliminal reprogramming tapes offer verbal suggestions recorded at a low volume. I question the efficacy of this technique--if subliminals are not perceptible, they cannot be effective, and subliminals recorded below the audible threshold are therefore useless. The oldest audio subliminal technique uses a voice that follows the volume of the music so subliminals are impossible to detect without a parametric equalizer. But this technique is patented and, when I wanted to develop my own line of subliminal audiocassettes, negotiations with the patent holder proved to be unsatisfactory. My attorney obtained copies of the patents which I gave to some talented Hollywood sound engineers, asking them to create a new technique. They found a way to psycho-acoustically modify and synthesize the suggestions so that they are projected in the same chord and frequency as the music, thus giving them the effect of being part of the music. But we found that in using this technique, there is no way to reduce various frequencies to detect the subliminals. In other words, although the suggestions are being heard by the subconscious mind, they cannot be monitored with even the most sophisticated equipment. If we were able to come up with this technique as easily as we did, I can only imagine how sophisticated the technology has become, with unlimited government or advertising funding. And I shudder to think about the propaganda and commercial manipulation that we are exposed to on a daily basis. There is simply no way to know what is behind the music you hear. It may even be possible to hide a second voice behind the voice to which you are listening. The series by Wilson Bryan Key, Ph.D., on subliminals in advertising and political campaigns well documents the misuse in many areas, especially printed advertising in newspapers, magazines, and posters. The big question about subliminals is: do they work? And I guarantee you they do. Not only from the response of those who have used my tapes, but from the results of such programs as the subliminals behind the music in department stores. Supposedly, the only message is instructions to not steal: one East Coast department store chain reported a 37 percent reduction in thefts in the first nine months of testing. A 1984 article in the technical newsletter, "Brain-Mind Bulletin," states that as much as 99 percent of our cognitive activity may be "non-conscious," according to the director of the Laboratory for Cognitive Psychophysiology at the University of Illinois. The lengthy report ends with the statement, "these findings support the use of subliminal approaches such as taped suggestions for weight loss and the therapeutic use of hypnosis and Neuro-Linguistic Programming." Mass Misuse I could relate many stories that support subliminal programming, but I'd rather use my time to make you aware of even more subtle uses of such programming. I have personally experienced sitting in a Los Angeles auditorium with over ten thousand people who were gathered to listen to a current charismatic figure. Twenty minutes after entering the auditorium, I became aware that I was going in and out of an altered state. Those accompanying me experienced the same thing. Since it is our business, we were aware of what was happening, but those around us were not. By careful observation, what appeared to be spontaneous demonstrations were, in fact, artful manipulations. The only way I could figure that the eyes-open trance had been induced was that a 6- to 7-cycle-per-second vibration was being piped into the room behind the air conditioner sound. That particular vibration generates alpha, which would render the audience highly susceptible. Ten to 25 percent of the population is capable of a somnambulistic level of altered states of consciousness; for these people, the suggestions of the speaker, if non-threatening, could potentially be accepted as "commands." Vibrato This leads to the mention of VIBRATO. Vibrato is the tremulous effect imparted in some vocal or instrumental music, and the cyle-per-second range causes people to go into an altered state of consciousness. At one period of English history, singers whose voices contained pronounced vibrato were not allowed to perform publicly because listeners would go into an altered state and have fantasies, often sexual in nature. People who attend opera or enjoy listening to singers like Mario Lanza are familiar with this altered state induced by the performers. ELFs Now, let's carry this awareness a little farther. There are also inaudible ELFs (extra-low frequency waves). These are electromagnetic in nature. One of the primary uses of ELFs is to communicate with our submarines. Dr. Andrija Puharich, a highly respected researcher, in an attempt to warn U.S. officials about Russian use of ELFs, set up an experiment. Volunteers were wired so their brain waves could be measured on an EEG. They were sealed in a metal room that could not be penetrated by a normal signal. Puharich then beamed ELF waves at the volunteers. ELFs go right through the earth and, of course, right through metal walls. Those inside couldn't know if the signal was or was not being sent. And Puharich watched the reactions on the technical equipment: 30 percent of those inside the room were taken over by the ELF signal in six to ten seconds. When I say "taken over," I mean that their behavior followed the changes anticipated at very precise frequencies. Waves below 6 cycles per second caused the subjects to become very emotionally upset, and even disrupted bodily functions. At 8.2 cycles, they felt very high . . . an elevated feeling, as though they had been in masterful meditation, learned over a period of years. Eleven to 11.3 cycles induced waves of depressed agitation leading to riotous behavior. The Neurophone Dr. Patrick Flanagan is a personal friend of mine. In the early 1960s, as a teenager, Pat was listed as one of the top scientists in the world by "Life" magazine. Among his many inventions was a device he called the Neurophone--an electronic instrument that can successfully programm suggestions directly through contact with the skin. When he attempted to patent the device, the government demanded that he prove it worked. When he did, the National Security Agency confiscated the neurophone. It took Pat two years of legal battle to get his invention back. In using the device, you don't hear or see a thing; it is applied to the skin, which Pat claims is the source of special senses. The skin contains more sensors for heat, touch, pain, vibration, and electrical fields than any other part of the human anatomy. In one of his recent tests, Pat conducted two identical seminars for a military audience--one seminar one night and one the next night, because the size of the room was not large enough to accommodate all of them at one time. When the first group proved to be very cool and unwilling to respond, Patrick spent the next day making a special tape to play at the second seminar. The tape instructed the audience to be extremely warm and responsive and for their hands to become "tingly." The tape was played through the neurophone, which was connected to a wire he placed along the ceiling of the room. There were no speakers, so no sound could be heard, yet the message was successfully transmitted from that wire directly into the brains of the audience. They were warm and receptive, their hands tingled and they responded, according to programming, in other ways that I cannot mention here. The more we find out about how human beings work through today's highly advanced technological research, the more we learn to control human beings. And what probably scares me the most is that the medium for takeover is already in place! The television set in your livingroom and bedroom is doing a lot more than just entertaining you. Before I continue, let me point out something else about an altered state of consciousness. When you go into an altered state, you transfer into right brain, which results in the internal release of the body's own opiates: enkephalins and Beta-endorphins, chemically almost identical to opium. In other words, it feels good . . . and you want to come back for more. Recent tests by researcher Herbert Krugman showed that, while viewers were watching TV, right-brain activity outnumbered left-brain activity by a ratio of two to one. Put more simply, the viewers were in an altered state . . . in trance more often than not. They were getting their Beta-endorphin "fix." To measure attention spans, psychophysiologist Thomas Mulholland of the Veterans Hospital in Bedford, Massachusetts, attached young viewers to an EEG machine that was wired to shut the TV set off whenever the children's brains produced a majority of alpha waves. Although the children were told to concentrate, only a few could keep the set on for more than 30 seconds! Most viewers are already hypnotized. To deepen the trance is easy. One simple way is to place a blank, black frame every 32 frames in the film that is being projected. This creates a 45-beat-per-minute pulsation perceived only by the subconscious mind--the ideal pace to generate deep hypnosis. The commercials or suggestions presented following this alpha-inducing broadcast are much more likely to be accepted by the viewer. The high percentage of the viewing audience that has somnambulistic-depth ability could very well accept the suggestions as commands--as long as those commands did not ask the viewer to do something contrary to his morals, religion, or self-preservation. The medium for takeover is here. By the age of 16, children have spent 10,000 to 15,000 hours watching television--that is more time than they spend in school! In the average home, the TV set is on for six hours and 44 minutes per day--an increase of nine minutes from last year and three times the average rate of increase during the 1970s. It obviously isn't getting better . . . we are rapidly moving into an alpha-level world--very possibly the Orwellian world of "1984"--placid, glassy-eyed, and responding obediently to instructions. A research project by Jacob Jacoby, a Purdue University psychologist, found that of 2,700 people tested, 90 percent misunderstood even such simple viewing fare as commercials and "Barnaby Jones." Only minutes after watching, the typical viewer missed 23 to 36 percent of the questions about what he or she had seen. Of course they did--they were going in and out of trance! If you go into a deep trance, you must be instructed to remember--otherwise you automatically forget. I have just touched the tip of the iceberg. When you start to combine subliminal messages behind the music, subliminal visuals projected on the screen, hypnotically produced visual effects, sustained musical beats at a trance-inducing pace . . . you have extremely effective brainwashing. Every hour that you spend watching the TV set you become more conditioned. And, in case you thought there was a law against any of these things, guess again. There isn't! There are a lot of powerful people who obviously prefer things exactly the way they are. Maybe they have plans for? <> How To Have Fun At School This Works Best If You Happen To Have Alot Of Deralict Friends, As I Do... Your First Day Of School You Should Bring The Following Items, To Insure A Prosperous School Year: 1) Fountain Pen (And Extra Ink Refills) 2) 3 Tubes Of Super Glue (Krazy Glue) 3) Pennies (About $1.00 Worth) 4) Baloons (Small Sized For Convieniance) 5) Mirror (Small Hand Held) 6) Liquid Soap 7) Lighter, (Matches As Alternate) 8) Firecrackers (Ladyfingers Are Great) 9) Screwdrivers And Other Tools (Small) More (Y/N/C)? 10) Small Squeezable Bottles (Like Nasal De-Congestant Type) 11) Wire (10-20 Ft) 12) Tape Recorder Mic. (Battery Operated Pref.) 13) Ziplock Baggies 14) Half Of An Orange 15) Ligth Bulb (75 Watts And Over Are Great) This Will Do For Now... Some Of The Cool Things To Do Are, Take The Pennies And Glue Them To The Cafeteria Tables, (And Watch The Custodians Try To Get 'em Off). This Also Looks Good With Silver Dollars Glued To The Fire Alarm (So It Goes Off When The Custodian Attempts To Remove The Coin) And To A Door Some Place (Principals Preferably). Another Thing To Do With A Coin Is, Heat It Up Over A Bunson Burner (In Chem) And Just As The Bell Rings, Toss The Coin Into The Hall, I Will Guarantee You Will Know When The Coin Is Picked Up... While Your Using The Bunson Burner, Fill Your Little Squeeze Bottle With Gas, Then Cap It Tight And Put It In Your Pocket... Later, Take A Firecracker, And Glue It To The Bottle, Use A Cigarette As A Fuse Extension, Then Put It In The Bathroom, And Get To Class Fast... (Gas And Glue Make A Nice Flame)... More (Y/N/C)? While Your In The Bathroom, Place A Light Bulb Over The Door, And When The Superintendant Goes To See What The Explosion Was, He Gets A Nice Little Surprise... Now For The Wire, If You Can Access A Room Near Your Locker, When No One Is In The Room, Take Off The Speaker Cover On The Pa System, And Hook 2 Wires From It, To Your Mic. (Then Into Your Locker) This Is Good For Getting Your Friends Out Of Classes... Just Ask For Them... (Use Your Tools For That One, And Try To Be Neat About It)... Now For Your Mirror, You Can Use This For Getting Your, Uh..."Friends" Locker Combanation.... After You Get That, Take That Little Baggie You Got, And Put The Orange In It... Let It Sit For A Week Or Four, Then Open The Baggie, And Place It In Your Friends Locker... I Can Guarentee He/She Will Love It! Another Thing That Is Fun To Do, Is, Take A Penny, And Glue It Over The Key Hole On Your Friends Gym Locker, Just After He Goes Out, Thus He Has To Truck Around All Day In His Gym Stuff, (Unless You Rent Him Your Screw Driver To Pry The Penny Off) More (Y/N/C)? Ballons Are Fun To Play With In Chem Lab, Fill Them With The Gas That You Get Out Of The Taps On The Lab Desks, Then Tie Up The Baloon Tight, And Drop It Out The Window To The Burn Outs Below, You Know, The Ones That Are Always Smoking, They Love To Pop Baloons With Light Cigaretts, Get The Picture? Good... Those Fountain Pens Are Cool, Because If You Make A Slight Jerking Motion With Your Hand, Ink Squirts All Over The Room, (Or Person, What Everyour Aiming At) It Is A Good Idea Not To Let The Teachers Know You Have One Of Those, It Makes It Too Easy To Find Out Who Did It When Theres Ink All Over The Principals Face... (Or On The Floors, Walls, And Ceilings...) Liquid Soap Is Great For Use In Crowded Hallways, It Turns Everybody Into A Ice Skating Star, (Works Especially Well When People Come In From The Rain)... If Your School Is Anything Like The One I Goto, People Never Flush The Toiletts, A Little Liquid Soap In Here Makes For A Nice Surprise, I Mean, What Happens When The Soap Is Not Flushed Out Of The Toilet, And The Suds Aren't Flushed Out Either? The Janitors Have A Really Good Time Trying To Figure Out That One... (Glue A Quarter In One Of The Urinals, Always A Winner)... Turn Off The Water Under The Sinks Too... More (Y/N/C)? Getting Back To The Soap, It Is Also Good On The Hand Railings In Hallways And On Steps, If You Mix Perfume With It, Some Poor Grub Has To Have That Stench On Him All Day. I Shall Go Into More Depth At A Later Date, So Look For A New Volume Coming To A Bbs Near You... This Was: How To Have Fun At School Part 1, (By: Walkon) Part 2 Will Be Written As Soon As I Have Some More Time. ---===>>> Walkon <<<===--- ------ Sysop: Temple Of The Un-Dead 201 - 575 - 4010 ***** Now U/L Or Send Donation ***** Press A Key... E Sir Enjoy Your File(S). [G-Files Command Menu] [?/Help]: Lockpicking _ _ _______ | \/ | / _____/ |_||_|etal/ /hop _________/ / /__________/ (314)432-0756 24 Hours A Day, 300/1200 Baud Presents... ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue One, Phile #6 of 8 How to Pick Master Locks By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to it. 1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. 1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. 2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you got the second number. 3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be patient, it takes time. Have phun... Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM Ninja NYC/TPM {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}The writer of this text file takes responsibility for{=--=} {=--=}what this text file is used for. Hopefully, it will only be{=--=} {=--=}used for illegal purposes cuz I can't think of a reason it{=--=} {=--=}can be used for legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} 5 75 Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks.. This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must (must is a word used to much) you usually (that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together.. If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, I was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it, because I have gotten lots of beer money from doing this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape and pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, I don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key, etc.. If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. The Byte Byter [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+] L O C K P I C K I N G [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+] WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] This tutorial will demonstrate how to "pick" a pin tumbler lock. Use of this material is for locksmiths only, any use of this information for illegal purposes is forbidden and against the law. (As long as we are at it, do you want to buy some land in Florida?) In order to pick a pin tumbler lock, you will require four items: A lock, you, a pick, and a tension wrench. You can usually get these at a locksmith store, if you can't find one near you, there will be an address at the end of the article that you can order them from. Here is an illustration of a pick and a tension wrench: ________/ !________ PICK TENSION WRENCH Most people know of the need for the pick, but have no idea what the wrench is for. It is very important and without it, it would be impossible to pick a lock. In order to pick a lock, we must count upon the imperfection of the lock. Before we look at how to actually pick the lock, we will look at the parts of it and how the imperfection part fits in. Here is a disassembled lock: / / / / \ \ \ \ SPRINGS -> / / / / \ \ \ \ _ _ _ _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_! !_! !_! !_! _ _ ! ! _ ! ! BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! ! _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ _____________________ ! : : : : : : : : ! HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : ! ! : : : : : : : : ! !___: :_: :_: :_: :___! ! : : : : : : : : ! PLUG ->! : : : : : : : : ! !______________________! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_____________________! ___ / \ ! !__ _ _ ! \__ / \_/ \__ ! \/ \ \__/------------------- <- KEY When you insert a key into a lock, the bottom pins are pushed up, and if it's the proper key, the tops of the bottom pins will match with the spot where the plug and housing meet, thus allowing you to turn the plug, and open the door, etc.. When you insert the key, the bottom pins go into the valleys of the key, thus meaning that the key must have the right height valleys to make the lock open. Pretty elementary, right? Well now we can move on to how to pick a lock. In order to pick a lock, we (as I said before) depend on the inaccuracy of the manufacturing process. The first thing to do is to insert the tension wrench into the lock and apply a slight pressure to the left (or right if you wish) so that if you could look inside the lock at where the plug and the housing would meet, it would look like this: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*! ! ! !*! ! __________! !*! !___________ __________ !*! ____________ ! !*!! PLUG ! !_!! ! _ ! ! !*!! ! \_/! Now a slight presure is on the pins. Because the pins can not be produced exactly the same, there is one pin which is the widest and therefore has more tension on it, and one which is the thinnest and has almost no pressure on it. We now use the pick to >gently< push each pin up (and try to feel it when you let it down) until we find which is the tightest on and which is loosest. Getting the feel for this is the hardest part of lock picking. Now that you have found the loosest one, gently press it upward until you feel a slight reduction in tension on the tension wrench. This will happen when the top of the bottom pin becomes even with the junction of the plug and the housing. Do not release any tension from the wrench now! The driver will now be trapped in the housing as illustrated here: (don't I draw pretty?) ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*! ! ! !*! ! ___________! !_! !___________ _______________ ___________ ! !*! ! PLUG ! !*! ! ! \_/ ! ! ! Now you continue this process with each of the pins until you work your way up to the one that is widest. With some practice you can get fairly fast at this. I suggest practicing on a four pin tumbler lock that is bought from a hardware store, the cheaper the better. I would like to discuss a particular configuration of the pins now that may present a particularly hard job to pick. This is graphically shown here by the two middle pins: !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !_! !*! !*! !_! _ !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_______________ When you try to push the 2nd pin from the left up, you will unavoidably be pushing the one in front of it up because of its long bottom pin. The only solution for this is to get a special pick that looks like this: \ \ _______________ \_/ The major problem with this is that it is hard to initially detect. The reason that it makes it harder if it is not immediately apparent is that you unavoidably push the 3rd pin from the left up into the housing, getting it jammed: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !_! ! ! _ ! ! !*! ! __________! !*! !________ ___________ !*! ________ !!*!! PLUG !!*!! !\_/! I would also like to address a technique called raking. It uses a tool like this: \/\/\/\___________ Basically you "rake" it back and forth across the pins, hoping that combined with the tension it will give you the right combination. This way has been known to be fast sometimes, but it is not very reliable, and I would suggest learning to actually "pick" the lock. Earlier I promised an address to order locksmithing materials from, so here it is: Garrison Protective Electronics BOX 128 Kew Gardens, New York, 11415 Sources: Personal practice and many excellent books from mentor press. If you would like their catalog, send a SASE to: The intelligence library Mentor Publications 135-53 Northern Blvd. Flushing, NY 11354 And ask for any information available on the intelligence library. ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ ]] LOCK PICKING [[ ]] BY [[ ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ So you want to be a criminal? Well, if you are wanting to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, go to Hollywood because that's the only place your gonna do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend 5 to 10 minutes on a lock if they're unlucky. If you are looking for extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock-in-knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. If there is sufficient demand, i will later write a file discussing the other forms of entrance, including dead-bolt. First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith willing to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever.) The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle.. (not 90 deg.) it should look something like this: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (This is the handle \\\ that was already \\\ here.) \\\ \\\ \\\ Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file and smooth the end (#1) until it's rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. Is it small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other? Let's hope so, because that's the only way your gonna open it. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, its tendancy is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you're through.. there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Don't get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about 20-30 minutes your first time. After that you will quickly improve with practice. This is by no means the most efficient way of entering a house. If you would like another item or two devoted to these other ways, let the sysop know. Conclusion Whew! Finally, it's finished. This is The Complete Anarchist Compendium, Version 1.0. I have labled it Version 1.0, for I intend to add more files to it. If you find any files that could be added, let me know. This was printed as of 9/18/91. If it's been a while past that date, look around for a more current issue. Also, if you want a much smaller, yet less detailed issue, look for NIHICOMP.ZIP, for that was my first publication (under a different alias, of course). Oh well, hopefully that amendment for free speech and freedom of the press will apply, and I won't be traced back... Hasta la Rasta, n.