composting unit is very flexible. It can be moved easily to turn a pile or
to build a new one. Simply undo the latches, pull the sides apart, and move
it. It can also be used as a stationary unit, and works well in small spaces.
- 12' 2"x4"
- 12' fir 2"x4"
of 36" wide 1/2" hardware cloth
- 1 1/2" galvanized no. 8 wood screws
- 3" galvanized butt door hinges
poultry wire staples or power stapler
- 10 oz. tube exterior wood adhesive
large hook and eye gate latches
radial arm saw with dado blade,
each 12' 2"x4" into four pieces 3' long. Cut a 3/4" deep and 3 1/2" wide section
out of each end, for a total of 32 lap cuts. If using a handsaw and chisel,
cut 3/4" down at the 3 1/2 inch line - at A in diagram at right. Then cut a
1/2" deep grove into the end of the board - at B in the diagram. Place a thick
wood chisel in the end grove and split the wood with a hammer to the 3 1/2"
cut. If using a radial arm saw, circular or table saw, set the blade to 3/4"
depth and make multiple passes until the whole section is removed.
four 3' square frames from the lap-jointed 2"x4"s. Put enough construction
adhesive to fill the gaps when the lap joints are screwed together. Fasten
each joint with four screws.
the hardware cloth with tinsnips into four 3' square sections. Bend the edges
of the cloth back over 1" for strength. Lay one onto each of the four frames.
Center and tack each corner with a poultry wire staple. Try to tension the
cloth so it will not sag when filled with compost.
each pair of frames together with two hinges. Then put the hook and eye gate
latches on the other ends so that the sections latch together.