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Nan's Nook > Fungi > Grain>straw>straw/dung?


Posted by: repse Jan 28 03, 12:32 PM GMT
Hello fokes,

I was wondering if anyone has gone from grain to pasteurized straw and used colonized straw as a spawn for straw/dung casings...
huh.gif
If anyone has please drop me a line or reply to the thread or something I need some advice.

Thanks!!

~repse*

Posted by: Mycota Jan 28 03, 12:52 PM GMT
Best way to propogate spawn is G2G transfers. See trailing tek.

Straw IMHO is a flash in the pan, one flush wonder. As controling moisture content -- is tough with it - alone.

Straw/dung combo is a much better choice, IMHO.

You may get away with a colonized straw transfer to a fresh dung/straw combo. All you can do is; give it a whirl, if you are game.

Mycota (aka 6T)
.................................................

Mycota (aka 6T) Grain to Grain Transfers (G2G)

Once you have learned to prepare sterilized spawn pint or quart jars of bird seed, rye or grains & fully colonize them with mycelium. You can easily propagate a single colonized quart jar of that into about 20 more via G2G transfers. Jars propagated via G2G transfers generally colonize under optimal conditions 100% in 10 to 14 days . Given that, spores do not have to germinate, as what is transferred to freshly prepared jars is active mycelium on fully colonized seed or grains.

The method is to prepare fresh jars, just as you would to inoculate via a spore syringe (soak seed, rinse, drain, load, apply filter disk & PC). Excepting, rather than inoculate the fresh jars with a syringe. You transfer grain from a colonized jar to fresh uncolonized jars. The procedure is simple & only requires common sense, minimal preparation, a long stout clean stainless steel spoon & the cleanest personal hygiene and the smallest uncarpeted working place you can muster.

Prepare the smallest cleanest uncarpeted room you have (generally, a bathroom). In the following manner. Clean the room as best you can, getting rid of any dirt, dust, mold or mildew. Remove any cloth hanging anywhere. Spray Lysol on everything, everywhere & wipe it down. If you have any hepa type air filter unit? Place it in the room & run it for at least 1 hour. Running a hepa is preferable, but, if you donít have one. You can usually manage without it

Wipe your fully colonized jar of grain & your fresh jars down, with a clean Lysol sprayed rag. Place those in the room, on the counter top, or whatever flat working surface you intend to use. Wear freshly laundered clean cloths. If you have a face mask (preferable) wear it. If you have a shower cap to cover your hair (preferable), wear it. Enter the room, spray Lysol around (again) run the hepa for a few minutes (if you have one). Then, turn it off. Spray your hands & arms with Lysol & wipe dry.

Unscrew the lid off the colonized jar. Leave the internal filter disk or filter material in place covering the content. Unscrew the lid on a fresh jar, leaving the internal filter material in place. Remove the filter material from the colonized jar & dig up about ľ of content, as it will be colonized into a solid mass. Spoon out 2 table spoons full & transfer them to the uncolonized jar, by lifting itís filter up & spooning them in. Replace the filter material on the fresh jar IMMEDIATELY after spooning in the colonized material.

Repeat this same process as many times as you have fresh jars to transfer to. Once done. Screw the fresh jars lids on tight. Cover the outside of the lids of the fresh jars with a double layer of alcohol swabbed coffee filters & rubber band them down. Shake each fresh jar to spread the colonized material throughout it. Place your fresh jars in a dry, dark, warm place (preferably between 78 & 84 F), and allow them to colonize in peace & quiet. G2G transfer & shaking jars batters the mycelium. It takes it a day or 3 recuperate from that shock. There is no need to shake G2G jars more than once. As, doing so will only slow colonization, rather than speed it up.









Posted by: Infinity Jan 28 03, 07:22 PM GMT
The Oven Tek can be used here also. Simply pre-heat oven to 400, pull out bottom rack a little and work on there. The hot sterilized draft helps blow contams out and away from your work. The less you open the oven door the better, but be ready to get burned if you fumble a lid or lose your balance.

Posted by: OneDiaDem Jan 28 03, 07:32 PM GMT
As established, hot air only moves contaminates around. I believe it is best to innoculate in a still room, than to have any air movement. Some people have luck using their stove, but, I believe the luck was already there, and would have been as successful without the stove. This isnt something I would like to see new folk do. I am not beating on you here, I just believe people would be better off with a cardboard glovebox, where there is no air movement, than start using their stoves.

If it works for you, Kudos and props.

Posted by: Mycota Jan 28 03, 07:42 PM GMT
Eyeball this pic. It speaks for itself. Mycota

Posted by: repse Jan 28 03, 08:14 PM GMT
Hey six tango, it's shroomerylurker.

I was just wondering if anyone has had any luck with using straw as a bulk spawn.

I am not planing on fruiting off of straw, just using it as spawn.

I think I will see how it works.

~repse*

Posted by: Zoom Jan 28 03, 08:17 PM GMT
When I first strarted growing I used a cardboard glovebox and got excellent results from it.

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 28 03, 09:54 PM GMT
QUOTE (Infinity @ Jan 28 03, 06:22 PM GMT)
The Oven Tek can be used here also. Simply pre-heat oven to 400, pull out bottom rack a little and work on there. The hot sterilized draft helps blow contams out and away from your work. The less you open the oven door the better, but be ready to get burned if you fumble a lid or lose your balance.

Good god 400 degrees!!? thats some hot ass shit to be working in front of man, fck all that. I would steer clear of the oven tek, that pic speaks for itself, plus its hot as hell, youll probably contaminate your culture from sweating in it if the oven doesnt. Just my opinion. smile.gif

Posted by: DirtyWOP Jan 28 03, 10:16 PM GMT
QUOTE
I was just wondering if anyone has had any luck with using straw as a bulk spawn.


well.....it's perfectly do-able, but like mycota said, you'd be better off super-spawning with your traditional spawn, that is, grain.....just because it's better suited for the purpose. G2g transfers will go much faster than straw, and break up spread out much farther and with more ease than straw, to spawn more bulk substrate. Not to mention the nutrient boost that grain spawn gives the substrate which the straw doesn't have.....


Posted by: repse Jan 29 03, 11:39 AM GMT
Okay cool, thanks guys!!biggrin.gif
~repse*

Posted by: Infinity Jan 31 03, 02:09 PM GMT
400 degrees is pretty hot and yes I do sweat a lot, but not into the jars I hope.
I have had pretty good success with it doing G4G (j/k G2G) transfers. In 24 G2G transfers (w/ 1 spawn jar) I've had about 2 jars contaminate with a tan/grain colored fuzz. With a glovebox it would probably be more like 0 contam'd jars.

Mycota to be fair in your pic it doesn't seem like you're doing the oven tek the way I do: I use the bottom rack on the lowest setting not the top one at the heighest setting, and I put the jars as far into the oven as I can reach and still not get burnt.

I have a gas oven, maybe the flames help with their large surface area in deactivating the contams as opposed to an elec. element.

Also to be fair I'm a lazy bastard otherwise I would construct a glovebox out of one of my sterilites.


Posted by: Mycota Jan 31 03, 03:00 PM GMT
Do you understand heat/air convection? Hot air rises (just eyeball a hot air ballon - once). Cooler air floods in to take it's place. The cooler air contains contams, as it is unfiltered. Glove box is better, flow hood -- better yet. Simple as that, IMHO. Mycota (6T)

Posted by: phillinwierd Jan 31 03, 06:15 PM GMT
Actually, cool air being more dense, falls and warmer air being less dense is displaced upwards. hehe.

Posted by: phillinwierd Jan 31 03, 06:25 PM GMT
The reason why the oven tek (if that's what you want to call it) shouldn't work is because if you heat air it pushes the molecules further apart allowing cooler more dense (contam ridden air) in to take its place.
In answer to the original question of the thread, why add the extra step in the process? Just go from grain to straw/dung with high spawn rates to cut run time. The longer you fuck around, the more chance you have of contams establishing themselves. Just my humble opinion.

Posted by: Mycota Jan 31 03, 06:50 PM GMT
QUOTE (phillinwierd @ Jan 31 03, 11:15 PM GMT)
Actually, cool air being more dense, falls and warmer air being less dense is displaced upwards. hehe.

Grin.... well said. The point is, one moves out & the other moves in. Right. That can intro contams.

Mycota (6T)

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 31 03, 06:55 PM GMT
QUOTE (phillinwierd @ Jan 31 03, 05:25 PM GMT)
The reason why the oven tek (if that's what you want to call it) shouldn't work is because if you heat air it pushes the molecules further apart allowing cooler more dense (contam ridden air) in to take its place.
In answer to the original question of the thread, why add the extra step in the process? Just go from grain to straw/dung with high spawn rates to cut run time. The longer you fuck around, the more chance you have of contams establishing themselves. Just my humble opinion.

yes I agree phillin,


when you dont have any spores left though...
I somtimes use crumbled pf cakes to inoc grain jars. 1 cake goes a long way...
12 jars easy and each has allot of cake in it. so use 5 cakes trasfer and have a bundle of grain jars @100% in 1 week. wink.gif

Posted by: phillinwierd Jan 31 03, 07:04 PM GMT
Finally, five years of college pay off! My geology instructor and mentor used to get so pissed to hear people say warm air rises. Just had to laugh and add my edumacated $0.02 worth! laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

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