Ions Seedlings!!!

Nan's Nook : Archives : Botanicals : San Pedro, Peyote, Mescaline : Peyote

Ion -

I got some strange new growth... I think it may be FRUIT!

This is actual size-- about 1/2 cm

I'm so happy... this is the direct result of my pollenating the "flowering" phenotype with the "pupping" phenotype 


taken from:


Mature plants flower in response to watering and harvesting. Peyote flowers may be fertilized with a small paintbrush or Q-tip, though this may result in self fertilization. Out crossing increases seed fertility. To out-cross the flowers, transfer with forceps some stamens containing pollen from the flower of one plant to the stigma of another flower.

The fertilized flower produces a tiny club shaped pink berry, about one quarter inch long which is delicious to eat. Keep track of these fruits because they shrivel as they dry and may become lost among the white fuzzy tufts. Carefully remove the dried fruit pod from the tufts with your fingers. Use a white sheet of paper or bowl to catch the tiny black seeds (the size of a pinhead). Crush the dried seed pod between the thumb and index finger to release the seeds.

Normally one flower occurs at a time with about 6 seeds in the pod, but as many as 30 seeds have been found in a single fruit. The central tufts may also harbor loose seeds and/or lost seed pods. Often dried Peyote buttons used in religious ceremonies contain dried seed pods. Always check the fuzz for the tiny, round, black seeds.

Indeed! wub.gif Here's what's happenin':

No soaking since they are relatively fresh seeds. (But I would normally use 1 part 3% peroxide to 4 parts spring water at room temperature for about 20 hours).

Mixed up a batch of Nan Dirt ™ and sifted through fine hardware cloth to get some nice fine soil.
Baked soil for 1 hour at about 165 F.
Baked white sand, pots, and charcoal for 1 hour at 225 F.
Placed about 1/2 cm of charcoal in bottom of the four 1.5 inch pots (very cute little things).
Mixed a few pinches of sand into a bit of the fine soil (for drainage), and filled pots to about 3 mm from rim.
Sprinkled a bit of finest sand over soil (for seed-contact layer).
Bottom soaked pots till saturated with spring water (already sterile).
Allowed pots to drain a bit on paper plate.
Sanitized one hand with alcohol and allowed to dry before touching seeds.
Moistened index finger with spring water and touched seed to pick it up.
Very gently rolled seed from fingertip on to the top of the soil, in center of pot.
Rolled seed carefully to position onto its side, "eye" of seed angled downward about 45 deg.
Sprinkled very finest sand gently over seed till seed was not visible. Maybe 1/2 mm.
Placed pots into pre-sanitized (bleach, soap, water) square tupperware dish.
Poured tiny amount of water into "trough" around periphery of inside of dish. (No water touching pots.)
Said small prayer directly into dish. (For CO2, of course).
Covered with lid just barely cracked.
Labeled dates (collected/planted) on lid, and set dish near partial sun window.
Day temp should be around 80-90, night temp around 60-70.

We shall see, eh? biggrin.gif


These may help...

Inside the magical tupperware...


~ actual size...

Closeup... (maybe 20x actual)

And for Driador,
The mother prepares...

The flower buds and finally blooms over the course of about a week. It blooms during the daytime, and closes at night (or if humidity if very high, e.g. during rainy days). It opens and closes over about 3 days or so, and then dries up and falls away after about a week.

If it gets fertilized, then it seems to dry up the same way, but a tiny node is left that swells to later become fruit... I have no idea how long that process is supposed to take, though, as my fruits apparently formed just before going inside for the winter dormant period... I only noticed them after a few months of extremely slow growth (in dormancy), and then they grew very fast when dormancy broke.

The flower is only about 1 cm across when open, so there is hardly any smell... but one time when I had 3 open at once, I sniffed and caught a faint whiff of sweetness. wub.gif

They appreciate the love, folks! They told me so... smile.gif


Bob Roberts

It looks like a solid process to me! wink.gif The only thing I'm not sure about is the depth and if the seed needs to be washed before planting (there are sometimes some phenolic compounds on the outside). Usually depth is twice the length of the seed, but your method looks solid bro! Maybe when it gets up you can give it a very week fertilizer also!

Take it easy


I'm really glad you could offer some new info! Thanks! wub.gif

Are these phenols endogeneous compounds that are produced to "time" the seed?

These seeds are incredibly small... maybe half the size of a poppy seed. I said 1/2 mm as a guess, pretty much... but I'm pretty sure that at least two grains of sand deep is how buried the seed is. I didn't know there was a rule of thumb for depth, though! That's pretty neat!

Yes, I planned on using some cactus juice at 1/4 strength when I get cotyledons... is that even the right term for baby cacti lobes? huh.gif

Keep on rockin', Bob! biggrin.gif


Bob Roberts

Are these phenols endogeneous compounds that are produced to "time" the seed?

Yes, I planned on using some cactus juice at 1/4 strength when I get cotyledons... is that even the right term for baby cacti lobes? huh.gif

Keep on rockin', Bob! biggrin.gif


I would assume that yes, they are to time the seed for the wet season.

Typical flower morphology (note location of ovule)

The wall of the ovule (part of the parent plant) develops becomes larger as the embryo grows, and usually hardens to form the protective seed coat. So, I'm assuming, the ovule is where the compound is produced.

Cotyledons is the correct term for "baby cacti lobes" tongue.gif. Depending on the plant, cotyledons can occur above the ground or below the ground (hypocotyledon).


Alright! I've been putting a couple drops of sterile water over each seed for a couple of days (because I figured the phenols would be water soluble). That should equate to a "rainy season" for the seeds.

Dude... you shouldn't post porn like that! This is a respectable forum! tongue.gif
Naked flowers... you should be ashamed! biggrin.gif


Houston, we have GERMINATION!! wub.gif

As you can see, the seeds (as Bob said) were a little too shallow...

No problem. Just used a clean, stainless "turkey" needle to poke a small hole in the soil, and gently placed the baby in the depression with gloved hand.

The new root was small enough that it could be lifted from the lose sand with no damage incurred (one of the main reasons to use sand wink.gif ). You can see the old seed husk in the top of the second pic. It fell off while lifting the baby.

Ahh, Fatherhood... gotta love it. wub.gif


I think it might be a good idea to put clear plastic over the dish, now. The babies are in a rather dim area... western sun filtered through window, shear drapes, and the plastic sides of the dish. I think the clear plastic may give a little boost of light to keep them healthy and cut down on the chlorotic tendencies of seedlings.

Time to add a couple drops of dilute Farnam Cactus Juice® solution, too. Maybe 3 drops to a cup of water. wink.gif

The only reason not to use Peter's® at this stage is that it contains too much nitrogen for babies... they need Phosphorous for root development and Potassium for general strength and resistance, first. Cactus Juice also contains calcium which, for some odd reason, Peter's lacks. It doesn't matter too much if you are using Nan's Cactus Soil™... limestone is calcium carbonate (the calcium ions are released as acids are formed in the soil). Calcium is used to build cell membranes and to neutralize toxic substances in soil. It also helps bind organic and inorganic particles together and improve soil structure. Cacti love it!


Germinating Peyote Seeds  :  Peyote  :  San Pedro  :  Grafting  :  The Nook

Posted by: ion May 13 03, 04:47 AM GMT
Update time! wub.gif

Well, so far I have 3 babies out of 4 seeds... almost a week apart for each!

I've been opening the saran wrap "lid" and getting fresh air to them about once every 3 days. Before sealing them back up, I exhale a nice deep breath into the dish... don't worry, I brushed my teeth, first. biggrin.gif

I've decided to put the heat on a timer... set to warm up to 80 (up to 90 from sunlight) during the day, and off at night, dropping to around 65-70. This will help the seedlings grow more efficiently, methinks... seeing as how they are CAM plants and all that.

This temperature scheme is actually ok to use for the entire germination period (for those of you who might want to set it and forget it for a month or so wink.gif ).

The first seedlings are elongating like mad... another reason I adjusted the temp. This can be from lack of sufficient light or weirdness from lack of proper CAM functioning due to warm night temps. They are still pretty green (not yellow), so I'm guessing the problem was the latter, not the light. Then again, they may just want to grow that way...


Posted by: ion May 29 03, 02:07 AM GMT
Although this thread has now been archived biggrin.gif , I think it's time for another update:

One seed has not germinated. Sometimes one must let the soil dry out completely, let it cool (maybe even in the fridge) for a week or so, and then start over. This is likely what I will do.

I noticed a very faint bit of algae forming in the non-germinated seed's sand... and a spot of algae in the water trough around the periphery inside the bottom of the dish. I removed the non-germed pot and set it aside in a clean paper towel to dry out. I removed the 3 clean seedling pots (with gloved fingers) to a covered, sanitized container while I cleaned the dish...

I threw away the old saran wrap and washed the dish well with anti-bac dish soap. I spritzed it and the temp probe with iso and dried them with a clean paper towel. I put on clean gloves and placed the 3 seedling pots back into the dish. I placed fresh saran wrap over the whole thing and poked 8 holes around the periphery to allow for a bit more fresh air exchange without letting dust be able to get to the pots.

They have been removed from the heat pad, as it is now warm enough in the day (and night) to keep them at happy temps... 85 day, and 65 night.

I'm all archive material 'n stuff... biggrin.gif tongue.gif


Nan's Nook : Archives : Botanicals : San Pedro, Peyote, Mescaline : Peyote

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