|Posted by: Nanook Jan 22 03, 07:58 PM GMT|
| By Email:
|Posted by: Nanook Jan 22 03, 08:02 PM GMT|
| I replied:
LOL, I usually don't help people via email... That's why I have a board, so the next guy can pick up on the tips too.
Everything you wrote sounded fine. With one exception. You were talking about casings and you mentioned covering and keeping it in the dark for a long time... a week or more. Really a properly prepared casing is ready to move into the fruiting chamber in 72 hours after it is cased up.
Otherwise, you sound good to go
Any others? I sent him a link the thread here so he could catch any comments
|Posted by: Kermit_The_Frog Jan 22 03, 08:13 PM GMT|
| you won't need 6-8 hours of light, it won't hurt but you can only give them a few minutes of light per day and they will be fine.
also if you are doing a double end case you don't really need to inject water into the cake, it could flood the cake and introduct wet mold
|Posted by: Fiend Jan 23 03, 06:39 AM GMT|
Really? How deep of a layer are you talking about? I usually make mine about an inch, and incubate at a steady 82 degrees. 6-7 days is the minimum for them to be ready for me. Do you think this could be attributed to an out of range pH? Cus haven't ever tried putting any + in my 50/50. Gotta get down to a brewery store some time soon.
|Posted by: Nanook Jan 23 03, 07:54 AM GMT|
| I use 1/2 inch of casing, and incubate at 86*F (those 4 degrees make a big difference) - 72 hours then into the fruiting chamber. They don't need to incubate any longer than is needed to get water sucking rhizomes started into the casing... And as soon as they start in, I start soaking... Three days of water and cooler temps in the fruiting chamber... Pins start in 6-7 days with early strains.
I push the timeline, but really just enough to stay ahead of the curve... And that first three days in the fruiting chamber I use to hydrate everything up as the mycelia finishes with the casing and just before the pinset.
Another way to look at it... When the casing is fully colonized, it is denser and less able to soak up and hold water. And if it overlays water delivery becomes all but impossible.
Yet another way to look at it is at 6-7 days yours are ready for mistings and then a pin set... Mine are fully hydrated and setting pins
pH drops off further down the road a few days... But not much. Even straight peat takes a couple of weeks to "sour up" .
|Posted by: DirtyWOP Jan 23 03, 09:19 AM GMT|
|good advice nan....|
|Posted by: Smerd Dec 14 02, 10:55 AM GMT|
| I'm thinking of using verm+coir for casing - either OT's wafer tek or Hongus. (Is either tek better for newbies?)
Should the casing be pasteurized? If so, how? Is the best ratio verm:coir 30%:70%? I've been using 30 ml clean water per 1/2 cup verm - is that about right? Also, I was thinking a proper terrarium isn't really needed; just stick it in one of those plastic 'Maid "shoe boxes." Does that sound feasible?
I'm thinking coir is better than peat because its pH is neutral.
Sorry for so many questions - new at it. Thanks!
|Posted by: Nanook Dec 14 02, 02:10 PM GMT|
| Yes it's an excellent mix, it
does require some pH adjustment (lime/oyster shell). I sterilize in the pc, but I am just that way. You should at least pasteurize it.
I mix in water until It just beads up and drips out of my hands when squeezed in a fist, and then I soak/mist heavy once a day for the first few days to work even more moisture into the substrate.
Ratios here work from one end to the other... Pure Verm to Pure Coir, I would let the cost determine the ratios.
Ooops... There is a Good Pasteurization Here
|Posted by: Nanook Dec 14 02, 02:26 PM GMT|
| Dry Sterilized Casing
Fit a stiff, perforated, standoff plate in the bottom of the pc about 2 inches above the water line. Drop in a pillow case, fill with dry casing... I throw in a coffee mug to scoop the sterile casing out... fold over the pillow case, cover with a sheet of foil (to prevent excess condensation from soaking the casing mix)... I fill the PC right to the brim, slip on the cover, and blast at 15lbs for 45-90 mins.
When I go to case my rubbermaid bins I throw on some gloves, spray some lysol or rub some alcohol or dilute bleach on my hands, open the throughly cooled pc in a clean room and with the gloved hands grab the handle of the mug and scoop out dried casing.
Dried casing is easier to handle and spread. Once it is sifted into place, I use a cheap one gallon garden pump sprayer full of clean water to slowly and throughly soak it down.
The next day I soak it again.
And the day after that... By the 3rd day, it's getting wet and the mycelia is coming through... time to fan, make sure it gets light.
|Posted by: Smerd Dec 14 02, 04:08 PM GMT|
|Very cool. Thanks, Nan.|
|Posted by: KoOS Dec 14 02, 04:19 PM GMT|
| My case im doing is going to be coir
I got a nice big brick of coir at the pet store.
|Posted by: Fungusmaximus Dec 07 02, 12:37 AM GMT|
|Alright, I have a bunch of old casings 3+flushes that need new casing layers. They all have loads of undeveloping pins, some rotting. Ive always just removed as much as possible and recased. Any good tips??|
|Posted by: Nanook Dec 07 02, 04:28 AM GMT|
| Clean spoon, scrape em down to the substrate while spraying with water to rinse the crap off. Make sure they are picked clean, recase.
Pure grain substrates can be dunked
|Posted by: Malformed Dec 07 02, 05:46 AM GMT|
| i just recased a birdseed cake i had going.
scraped the verm off, trimmed the soft or mooshy edges all the way around the cake off
rinsed off with cold water.
hoping on a decent 4th flush.
edit: just chucked the casing. forget that 4th flush.
note: next time use sterile water.
|Posted by: Mycota Dec 07 02, 08:31 AM GMT|
| I have used a SHARPENED cement trowel. You can find them at any builders supply or hardware store for $5 or $6 bucks. I sharpen the edges like a knife. So, it will cut away aborts & all -- clean to the substrate.
Simply swab the trowel with lysol or alcohol & go for it. Once the old casing is removed, spray the surface with a mild h202 solution & recase.