Water Delivery To Casings
The Nook : Archives : Casings
1) Read Stamets and Chilton - The Casing Layer
"The enlargement of a pinhead into a fully mature mushroom is strongly influenced by the available water, without which a mushroom remains small and stunted. With the casing layer functioning as a water reservoir, mushrooms can reach full size. This is particularly important for heavy flushes when mushrooms are competing for water reserves."
2) Get a pump type garden sprayer
When you case your bed... You need
to spray it down with water. Not a misting, you need to really soak it.
Now if you are doing this right and you are using a trigger type spray mister , you will be seeing your doctor on (or about) your third casing for treatment of carpal tunnel syndrome in your index finger... Get my drift?
Day 1) - When you case your bed, you need to get your pump sprayer out, fill it with distilled or purified Water and soak down the casing until it is saturated. Your tray should be equipped with drain holes in case you get it too wet, but the idea here is to soak down to the point it will not hold any more water without dripping off excess. A soaking like this will take anywhere from 30 seconds to a couple of minutes spraying time depending.
Day 2) - You will find your casing has dried considerably as water was absorbed into the substrate over the previous 24 hours. Repeat the soaking as you did on Day 1
Day 3) - Casing should be pretty damp on Day 3. Repeat the soaking as you did on Days 1 & 2. The casing should take less water each day before becoming saturated.
Day 4) - Your casing should still be wet after Day 3, in which case you have worked enough water into the casing to support a nice flush. If by chance the casing is only damp on Day 4, soak it again. The casing needs enough water delivered by Day 3 or Day 4 to remain with a very damp/wet surface for 24 hours after the previous soaking. When this condition is obtained you can cut off bulk water delivery with the pump pressure sprayer.
Once you have the water worked into the casing you can then mist with a trigger type sprayer* with the idea that you spray lightly every day, only enough to replace water lost to evaporation until pins form. This will not injure your trigger finger on a hand mister. However you must beware: Casings contain a living BREATHING organism. It generates heat (increased evaporation), exchanges gases (increases evaporation), and transpires water (more water loss). Casings lose far more to evaporation than people realize, and as the casing develops mycelia replaces available water with mycelia tissue... And they need more. So mist heavy with the trigger sprayer pre-flush, sometimes it's necessary to bring out the pressure sprayer for a another soaking. The idea is that once pinning starts all the required water should be in the bed, and misting the walls of the chamber to increase humidity is all the water support you should need to complete the flush. * See: Misting
If you are not doing this, or something similar, you are not getting enough water into your casings to support the largest fruit and healthiest flushes. Note that some water rich substrates (straw, well moistened compost) will not require such large volumes of water. This tek is key with cased grain or cased PF cake. - Nan
Examples: Done Correctly : Done Incorrectly
Casings : Casing Overview : Misting/Moisture Control : Archives Main : The Nook
|Posted by: Mycota Dec 14 02, 05:34 PM GMT
| How to Manage the Watering of a Mushroom Crop
Paul J. Wuest
Mushroom quality and speed of production are affected by casing depth, moisture, and watering. The initial moisture content of casing, as well as how and when water is applied, affects the number of pins that form and the size and quality of the mushroom. Water and watering are frequently THE FACTORS that separate excellent growers from average growers, and (as might be implied), can seem confusing if the overall goals of watering are not fully understood or implemented. Before getting into the watering, a few statements about the casing layer are in order.
Normally a depth (measured after initial water has been applied) of 1 to 1.25 inches of casing is adequate for most mushroom crops. There are growers and farms where casing depth will be as much as 1.75 to 2 inches, but such depth is usually found only where peat moss is the casing medium. There is nothing inherently wrong with a deep casing layer, but with good management there is no need to use so much casing. Further, the deeper the casing the longer the interval between casing and picking. More could be said about casing, but this general guideline is adequate to bring on satisfactory crops.
Note: Most Cubie growers case with depths of
1/2 to 1-1/2 inches...
With the average being 3/4 to about an inch deep - Nan
|Posted by: psilli me May 28 03, 10:36 PM GMT
| OK, my FOAFOAF has been reserching and thinks that some of her problems are related to low humidity levels (small fruits, split caps, exessive aborts, drying of casing, ect.) Perlite has been used in the past, with misting 3-4 times daily. That produced the results state above. She made a "pickle jar" humidfier from the archives but it isn't doing much either. The container is a 35gallon Sterilite with a 1inch hole on each side near the bottom to allow for some gass exchange.
Fanning has been done by hand 3-4 times daily as well.
She is pretty sure (as am I) that the problem is low humidity, she has used a cheap hygrometer to measure and it reads a consistant 85%Rh with the "pickle jar" thing running.
Does anyone have any tips or proven tech for getting the Rh up to 95%?
|Posted by: Nanook May 28 03, 11:56 PM GMT
|^ ^ ^
|Posted by: robinhood May 29 03, 12:14 AM GMT
| Nan, since you're on a roll today spreading the casing tek love, I'm gonna ask another question. This casing tek you posted above doesn't say anything about covering the casing. Are you just spraying it and letting it evaporate to the open air? What about contams? What about CO2 buildup? Obviously it works for you, but is everyone else wasting their time?
|Posted by: Nanook May 29 03, 12:19 AM GMT
| I assume that people who
are fruiting casings are aware they belong in
The problem I see: everybody is too dry in the substrate layer of their casings.
|Posted by: robinhood May 29 03, 12:28 AM GMT
|Assuming makes an ASS out of U and ME.......well ok, maybe just ME! Well thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately my foaf told me he already birthed his WBS casings, so there won't be any misting upon misting upon misting. However, rumor has it that he spawned some of that WBS substrate into quarts of popcorn, which are already looking happy after 24 hours....maybe he can try it with those?
|Posted by: highroller May 29 03, 12:30 AM GMT
| Fair assumption Nan.
If one is spraying casings the humidity should be high enough to have them in the "open" air. I don't know, upper 80%-mid 90%?
What concerns, robin(Rh... hehe), do you have about CO2 or contams other than the norm?
He's giving you the straight poo as far as I'm concerned. Works for me.
|Posted by: Nanook May 29 03, 12:38 AM GMT
Exactly, simply drop them into a bin and snap a cover on them, fan as required. In a closed container with a growing casing at proper fruiting temps the casing transpires moisture, it will condense on the walls. You need to mist the casing to replace that lost water, even after you have them fully hydrated.
|Posted by: robinhood May 29 03, 12:38 AM GMT
|Well highroller, it just seems to me that when you add a casing layer and cover it, the casing doesn't absorb the moisture and "dry out" (as the tek describes) to be sprayed again the next day. On the contrary, the moisture condenses on the saran wrap or foil. That's why I thought he meant spraying it and leaving it open without a cover.
|Posted by: robinhood May 29 03, 12:41 AM GMT
|Ah......see he was already typing it! Man you're quicker than the average human......or ARE you human?
|Posted by: Nanook May 29 03, 12:48 AM GMT
| No, the water is absorbed by the substrate
under the casing. The casing acts as a wick to feed the liquid into the mycelial mass. It takes 24 hours for the mycelia to wick up the first soaking, and it takes 2 soakings
total to hydrate the substrate, then one more good watering to top off the casing itself (which is depleted by giving water to the substrate).
Then you have daily evap losses, these can usually be dealt with using a hand mister, humidifier tek, whatever... But misting or humidifiers are no substitute for watering the casing down, and misting alone may not replace water transpired by the casing if the humidity is too low (many times...); another soaking from the pressure sprayer sometimes needs to be applied just as pinning starts to keep things wet enough. They have to have water to give fruit
|Posted by: psilli me May 29 03, 09:39 PM GMT
| So correct me if I'm not understanding this...
a well moistened casing layer is more important than an exact Rh in the chamber. meaning that even under the 85% Rh healthy fruits should be produced from a well watered casing layer. is this correct?
|Posted by: Nanook May 29 03, 09:46 PM GMT
| Up to the point you have pins... If the casing is wet... The mycelia will never know what the
humidity of the air is... It's covered with a wet blanket at 100% RH
Once pins start forming you need to pay attention to humidity of the air the mycelia is sticking up into... Stamets says 85-92% RH for cased beds... This is when you mist
|Posted by: psilli me May 29 03, 09:51 PM GMT
That must have been her problem then, I think my friend was afraid to get the casing to wet. I've been informed that she has taken the steps advised in Nan's link and I will be posting the results in a few days hopefully.
|Posted by: eleutheromania May 31 03, 11:08 PM GMT
| Hi all.
I was just reading through the archives and I found this Straw Tek. Now I've also read the informative page written by nan that runs you through how to saturate the crap out of your casings without getting carpel tunnel syndrome, and what good it does for your casings. I was just wondering if this rule applies to all casings?
I plan to dream about using this straw tek.
In my dream I'll case with a peat based soil mix with a pinch of lime to buffer. I just wanted to know if I was on the right track. Oh and yeah I've never grown cakes before, but In a re-occuring dream I'm currently having I have 4 colonising, 2 GC and 2 GT. So I'm going to dream of using one cake in this straw tek and maybe grow one of each strain in the old fashioned pf way, and maybe use one to try out lazy mofo's bag tek, because it looks rockin'.
Oh and does anyone have any suggestions about which strain I should dream of using for which of these methods?
Jah bless you one and all.
Edit: To add more non incriminating 'dream' headings and such.
|Posted by: Nanook May 31 03, 11:25 PM GMT
Good question. You don't need to go so wet with straw because this substrate gets wet pasteurized and is ready to spawn with plenty of moisture already in it. I dry case straw at the the time of spawning, then give it a heavy misting after 72 hours.
|Posted by: shroomie May 31 03, 11:38 PM GMT
|yeah nan i use potting soil and i saturated like you said and i drained off excees water but pin formation seems so much slower than when i only kept it moist, won't the soil turn to mud and make it difficult for the pins to push through? it's been a week today last crop i grew i had already harvested about 90% in the same time it's taken the last batch to even pin. you tell me, should i cut back on saturarating the soil? what would be a better casing? cocc coir or vermiculite. one last question, if you go to shroom wizard's homepage he says that using this method will produce an equal amount of shrooms to the dry brf used, so i used a 2 lb bag and i know for sure i won't get 2lbs of shrooms even wet, thats seems hard to believe, may he be lying? he says using his tek you harvest more shrooms than any other technique he tried which he said was all the teks and "this way produces the more fuit than any other technique" could this be true?you tell me nan
|Posted by: Nanook May 31 03, 11:48 PM GMT
| You got the casing good and wet, you can stop soaking it down already. Mycelia grows just fine into wet casings...
As to the rest of your questions... You already know I have found some problems in that tek, I am not it's biggest fan. I would contact the author
|Posted by: eleutheromania May 31 03, 11:58 PM GMT
| Ok then, thanks for the advice nan.
Do you find that 50/50 (verm and coco coir, no?) is better or atleast easier than peat based soil+lime? Because it sure would be easier, for me atleast, to obtain the materials for a 50/50 casing, since I already have the verm, and a few shops around my place are selling bricks of "coir peat" for $1.50 AUD.
|Posted by: Nanook Jun 01 03, 12:08 AM GMT
|They both work fine... Given the choice in that circumstance I let my pocketbook decide
|Posted by: Mycota Feb 02 03, 08:20 PM GMT
| Mushrooms are about 90 percent water, so a pound of harvested mushrooms per square foot of bed means that 0.9 lb of water has been removed from that same square foot.
If an additional pound is expected on second break, then 0.9 lb of water has to be replaced, plus a bit more for evaporation.
This quantity is needed only for second break, since subsequent breaks normally are not as heavy.
A gallon of water weighs just a bit more than 8 pounds; the Imperial gallon will weigh close to 10 pounds.
After calculating the total pounds of mushrooms harvested (lb/ft2 times the total harvested area - in square feet).
You can calculate the volume of replacement water by taking nine-tenths of this figure and dividing it by 8 (US gal) or by 10 if you're using Imperial gallons.