Soil and its contents


Nan's Nook : Archives : Botanicals : Cactus : San Pedro : Growing San Pedro : Soil
Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 10 03, 11:21 PM GMT
This sounds like Nan's soil almost....


By Elizabeth and Crow Miller

Guidelines For Success With Growing Cactus Indoors

Most cacti seem to be victims of their own durability. They will take an incredible amount of neglect and even abuse. I've seen them growing under practically zero light conditions, on cold, dreary porches, in ordinary potting soil, and shriveling from a prolonged drought because their owners take the name desert cactus too literally.

However, a little care goes a long way. Give them proper light, soil, temperature and watering, and they'll send out new growth.

You can use any common plant container for cactus, but clay pots are preferred for two reasons. First, they are porous and allow the soil to dry quickly. Second, they're heavy and many cactus soak up water, becoming heavy. Such plants easily tip over when in light, plastic containers. Mature cactus need repotting only once every 3 to 5 years. The pot should be at least as large as the largest diameter of the plant and its spines. Best repotting time is late winter, before the dormant season ends.

What about the right kind of potting soil to be used for cactus?

Well, here are 2 formulas you might try. The simplest method is to use a commercial houseplant soil you're happy with for other perposes, and mix with an equal amount of clean, dry builder's sand. Note: don't use sea sand. Or, use equal parts of garden soil, compost and builder's sand. To either of these mixtures add a tablespoon each of limestone and bone meal per quart The main point about soil is that it should be quick-draining. Cactus don't like to sit in heavy, wet soil. their roots will rot.

Water is the single most critical factor. It is better to err in the direction of too little water. But a little thought and scheduling will go far in developing healthy, blooming plants.

One basic rule is to keep the plants dry in fall and 'winter, wet in spring and summer. Cactus need a dormant period in which they harden growth and frequently set flower buds.

I follow this schedule: In late February I step up watering to once a week. As spring goes on and the plants show signs of new growth, I water more frequently. Watch the plants. In August I find that new growth has slowed or stopped on most plants, so the water ration is cut. I extend the time between watering from 3 to 5 days, By early fall the growing season is over, and the plants get water once a week. The next stage is the hardest for it seems cruel. My plants get a good drink at the beginning of November. They get another one around Thanksgiving. That's it. They won't see another drop until about mid-January. Then in Late-February they get another drink, and the cycle begins again.

Q) What about light ? Cactus are survivors. Even in a north window some plants will hang on for year after year. But desert cactus are basically light lovers, by all means find a southern exposure for your plants.

Q) How do I know what temperature they need ? Many cactus can take anything down to freezing. Generally, they're comfortable when we're comfortable. However, if you want them to bloom, try to give them cooler temperatures in winter, warmer temperatures are preferred at other times.

Q) What should I feed my cactus ? Cactus like well-drained soil, but this doesn't mean poor soil. They appreciate nutrients. The key ingredient in their diet is (P) phosphorus, the middle number given on most fertilizer bags. One good organic source is bone meal . Go lightly on it.

Fertilize only during the season of active growth and then no more frequent (N-P-K) than once a month. Also, use the fish/seaweed (4-4-1)

There are more than 9,000 cactus to choose from. The names are often confusing, that can be frustrating to a serious amateur grower, but in truth it's unimportant to the casual gardener. By any other name, a cactus is still a cactus; and few plants can offer so much variety in shape, texture and bloom for so little care.

Posted by: ion Jun 10 03, 11:30 PM GMT
It's official:

A. Nobody knows anything about cacti.

B. Cacti will live in any soil.

C. Cacti will LIVE... and if not, they will die a horibble, horrible death.

-ion

Posted by: Voodoo Jun 10 03, 11:39 PM GMT
laugh.gif

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 10 03, 11:52 PM GMT
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Soil Mix Recipes

Organic Free Mineral Soil Mix - (Also used for Rooting Cuttings)
6 cups of horticultural grade perlite (use 5 cups for 2 inch pots and use 7 cups for pots larger than 4 inches)
1 cup slightly compressed moist vermiculite *
1 cup slightly moist washed river sand (Do not use ocean beach sand!)

* Substitute with 1/2 cup finely screened peat moss plus 1/2 cup slightly compressed moist vermiculite for acid loving plants.

Wet the medium while stirring in a large stainless steel bowl, adding just enough Working Strength Fertilizer water to keep the sand from settling too much on the bottom. Sterilize and cool before using. This is the same mix I use for rooting cuttings. I now use this mix for starting all types of seeds.

Warning: Use the above mix (without any peat moss) for seedlings which do not tolerate organic matter in the soil mix (includes most cacti, cliff dwelling and scree type plants). It is best to slightly moisten your bag of perlite and vermiculite by adding some water to the plastic bag and then resealing it. After it sits a few days in the bag, it will be safer to use and less airborne while mixing. Dust from dry vermiculite and perlite can be hazardous to your lungs, which is why it is best to mix while slightly moist. Sand should also be slightly moist before measuring and mixing. For acid loving plants use the above recommended substitution or intermix the two types of recipes for most other plants that prefer only a slightly acidic type soil mix.

Click Here for Metric Measurement Conversions

Basic Soil Mix Recipe
6 cups slightly moist horticultural grade perlite
1 cup slightly compressed moist vermiculite *
1 cup slightly moist washed river sand (Do not use ocean beach sand!)
1 cup finely screened rich humus loam topsoil (Use a large vegetable screen strainer for screening - Do not use heavy clay soil)
1 quart slightly moist fine size crushed rock
1 quart slightly moist medium size crushed rock
2 quarts horticultural pumice

* Substitute with 1/2 cup finely screened peat moss plus 1/2 cup slightly compressed moist vermiculite for acid loving plants.

Mixing Instructions: Wet the medium while stirring in a very large stainless steel bowl, adding just enough Working Strength Fertilizer water to keep the sand from settling too much on the bottom. Sterilize and cool before using. I use this mix for established seedlings or older plants that may benefit from some extra weight to the soil mix and/or the organic compounds that the humus loam topsoil brings to the mix.

Warning: It is best to slightly moisten your bag of perlite and vermiculite by adding some water to the plastic bag and then resealing it. After it sits a few days in the bag, it will be safer to use and less airborne while mixing. Dust from dry ingredients can be hazardous to your lungs, which is why it is best mix it while slightly moist. Sand, rock grit and pumice should also be slightly moist before measuring and mixing.

Heat Sterilizing Soil and Pots

Heat Sterilizing Soil, Perlite or Cutting Medium in a Microwave Oven
Fill clean quart size plastic containers with your moist (not excessively wet) soil, perlite or cutting medium. Check the rims of the containers to make sure there is no aluminum of any kind because some yogurt containers now come with a foil seal. Use clean plastic yogurt containers with lids on for sterilizing soil. This is done using a temperature probe inside my carousel type microwave oven, heating to 200F and holding that temperature with the digital oven program for 15 minutes. Poke a hole through the plastic lids with a nail for steam ventilation. The temperature probe goes half way down into the soil through this hole in one of the containers. I can heat sterilize 7 quart containers at a time in my microwave, making this a very efficient way to heat sterilize soil. Allow to cool and tape over the hole in the lid to keep sterile until ready to use.

Warning: Use adequate ventilation! I use an exhaust fan in my kitchen with a window open while microwaving soil. After microwaving, immediately transport the containers outdoors to a safe location using a tray and oven mitts. This will help to reduce the fumes and odors in your kitchen. After it is cool, the disagreeable odor will be gone.

Heat Sterilizing Soil and Pots in a Microwave Oven at the Same Time
To heat sanitize both the pots and soil at the same time, fill the pots with the above seedling soil mix and place on a deep tray that you can easily pour water out of afterwards. Top spray the soil filled pots with plain water before microwaving, using a pump style sprayer to adjust pressure and nozzle spray. Fully saturate the soil, allowing water to come out the bottom of the pots. This additional top surface spray will rinse the finer muddy silt particles further down into the pot, leaving the top of the soil with a more open porous surface for planting seeds. While tilting the pots to drain a few seconds, move them two at a time inside a thick walled plastic storage container with a translucent snap on lid. This container must be small enough to fit inside your microwave oven. After all the pots are moved into your container, empty the muddy tray of water into a bucket and dump it on the compost pile. (Do not put this muddy water down the toilet or sink drain).

To microwave the soil, place the lid on the plastic container housing the pots. Be sure to leave one corner of the lid unattached, unless you are using a "breathable" type storage container (which is not air tight). Otherwise, the lid might explode off of the container inside the microwave. Microwave on full power about 45 to 60 seconds for each 5 cm (2 inch) square pot filled with soil. If you have 15 pots, you would microwave on full power for about 12 to 15 minutes (depending on the soil moisture content and other variables). Please note that microwave ovens vary in their power output and you may need to use less time than indicated above. If you have a temperature probe for your microwave, the center of the soil should be at least 200F after heating. I use a plastic storage unit which holds 18 of the 2 inch size soil filled pots. My old carousel type microwave oven requires 18 minutes on full power to heat sterilize everything inside. Remember to handle with oven mitts or a folded towel after heating since everything will be very hot! If you do not have a rotating microwave oven, you will need to stop and manually rotate the container every 4 minutes using oven mitts. I also use a dry folded terry cloth hand towel to put under the container so the microwave glass platform doesn't absorb too much heat.

Warning: Use adequate ventilation! I use an exhaust fan in my kitchen with a window open while microwaving soil. After microwaving, immediately transport the containers outdoors to a safe location using oven mitts. This will help to reduce the fumes and odors in your kitchen. After it is cool, the disagreeable odor will be gone. Do not use aluminum or other metals in the microwave! Do not use those flimsy thin walled plastic pots or you may end up with melted plastic pots! The pots I use in the microwave are made of thick hard green plastic. If you do not have a self rotating platform in your microwave oven, you should turn or re-position the container every 4 minutes.

After they have cooled, remove the pots with clean hands or sterile tweezer type tongs to a clean wiped surface. Then put a 1/2 inch layer of sterile soil on the inside bottom of the container. Then place the pots back inside and replace the lid. This extra layer of sterile soil underneath the pots will allow for extra root growth before the seedlings need to be transplanted. I also use this extra soil layer technique even with larger size pots of single transplanted seedlings. For best results, try not to lift or disturb the pot too much after placing on top of this soil layer for maximum root and plant growth.

Transplanting into Deeper Pots
Most plants will prefer to have a bit more open textured soil when growing in deeper pots. Therefore, when transplanting into pots deeper than 5 inches, be sure to add additional perlite, pumice and/or gravel to the soil mix for better drainage.

Seed Germination and Planting

Preparation Tools and Containers
I use plastic condiment cups (1 ounce size is recommended) for holding the seeds while soaking. Mark the condiment cup with the seed identity code (or plant name) using a permanent black marking pen. Test it first to make sure it is waterproof. Make sure the seeds are no more than one layer deep inside the condiment container. Larger and more dense shell seeds may benefit from a light surface abrasion on emery cloth sandpaper. However, most seeds do not need surface abrasion prior to soaking. Use additional containers for larger amounts of seeds. Plastic condiment cups are available from food distribution outlet suppliers. If you are not in a food related business, they will usually sell them to you anyway if you pay in cash.

I use one side of a very fine mesh tea ball type strainer attached to forceps for holding most sizes of seeds during the spray rinse. I use a custom made fine mesh strainer for holding very fine tiny seeds. This is made by stretching a piece of fine mesh nylon fabric over the end of a plastic pipe coupling (or something similar). The fabric is held in place with a stainless steel hose clamp and the whole thing held by hand.

Initial Spray Rinsing and Soaking of the Seeds - (Updated May 26, 2003)
Initially rinse the seeds with very warm tap water (115F) for 10 to 15 seconds
Add 80F to 100F soaking water and soak for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature
Repeat the above steps just one more time and then soak overnight (8 to 10 hours) at room temperature in a dark location
Spray rinse the seeds with 80F water for 5 to 10 seconds
Refill containers of seeds with 80F soaking water and soak for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature

Warning regarding thick walled seeds: These seeds may need a 10 to 20 minute soak in 1% hydrogen peroxide solution before proceeding with the rinsing and soaking steps.

Details of Above Steps
Tap and/or rinse the seeds out of their labeled condiment cup and into the proper size rinsing strainer. The seeds are spray rinsed with a pump type sprayer using a very warm tap water rinse (115F) for 10 to 15 seconds. Rinse the larger seeds first and the smaller seeds last, since the water will gradually cool inside the pump sprayer. I prefer to fill the pump sprayer with straight hot tap water and let is set a few minutes untl the temperature is 115F. Adjust the pump pressure and nozzle spray as needed. While the seeds are still in the strainer, briefly rinse the condiment container.

Blot the rinsed seeds from underneath the strainer using a clean terry cloth towel and then tap the seeds back into their plastic condiment cup. After all the seeds have been rinsed and are in their labeled condiment cups, fill them about 50% to 75% full with seed soaking water which is 80F to 100F. Use the warmer soaking temperature for larger seeds and the cooler soaking temperature for the smallest seeds. Put on the condiment cup lids, vigorously shake the containers of seeds and let soak for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.

Repeat all the above steps just one more time. Then place the condiment cups of soaking seeds on a deep tray or flat bottom plastic box for easier transport. Soak the seeds overnight (8 to 10 hours) at room temperature in a dark location. Then drain the soaking water and spray rinse the seeds in the fine mesh strainer for 5 to 10 seconds with 80F water. Use a pump type sprayer to achieve a brisk fine pressure type spray for this rinse. Then blot the seeds from underneath with a clean towel and tap them back into their condiment cup. After all the seeds have been spray rinsed and are in their labeled condiment cups, fill them about half full with 80F seed soaking water and soak for 1 to 2 hours at room tempearature. Now proceed to the next section.

Germinating the Seeds - (Updated May 26, 2003)
You must complete the instructions in the Rinsing the Seeds section (described above) before starting this section. Note the new simplified instructions in this section described below.

Soak all types of seeds at 59F day and 56F night for 4 days in the Fully Lighted Growing Room covered with 2 to 4 layers of black plastic from a garbage bag. Examine for germinated seeds at the end of this 4 day period. Then spray rinse the seeds with 80F water and refill the containers of seeds with 80F seed soaking water and soak for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature. Then soak at 62F day and 58F night for 3 days and examine for germinated seeds at the end of this 3 day period.

Then move all ungerminated seeds from cold hardy plants to the refrigerator at 36F for 5 weeks and then to the bottom of the refrigerator at 47F for one week. However, continue soaking the seeds from warmer climate plants using the 62F day and 58F night soaking schedule for one more week. Examine these seeds for germination every 3 to 4 days during this one week period. Then move all remaining ungerminated seeds from warmer climate plants to the refrigerator at 36F for 4 weeks and then to the bottom of the refrigerator at 47F for one week. This way the cold hardy plant seeds and the warmer climate plant seeds will end their refrigeration period at the same time.

At the end of the above refrigeration periods, return the soaking seeds back to the Fully Lighted Growing Room. Then you should repeat all the instructions from the beginning of this section just one more time. Any seeds which do not germinate by the end of the last week at 47F will need to be moved to the coldest area of your refrigerator for an additional 6 weeks. Note that some very cold hardy type seeds may benefit from a brief freezing period of 1 to 2 hours a few times during this 6 week period. Then move all the soaking seeds back to the 47F location for one week. Then repeat all the above instructions from the beginning of this section until the seeds eventually germinate.

Warning: If surface mold growth appears on otherwise intact healthy seeds during soaking, use a strong pressure spray rinse with room temperature water from a pump type sprayer. Adjust the nozzle for a fine sharp spray to rinse off as much mold from the seeds as possible without damaging the seeds. Also rinse out the condiment container and lid. Then refill the condiment container with fresh seed soaking solution. Remove damaged or crushed seeds from the soaking container to prevent mold growth. Seeds which continue to float on the surface (instead of sink in the soaking solution), may need to be spray rinsed just like you would for a healthy seed that has surface mold growth.

Planting the Germinated Seeds
Warning Regarding Moldy Seeds: Never plant a germinated seed that has any type of mold or fungus growth on the seed unless you only have a few seeds! The mold can spread in the pot and potentially ruin a whole pot of seedling. Make sure that the seed has not been physically damaged and that the mold is only on the outer surface layer of the seed. Otherwise, you are wasting your time planting a moldy seed that is physically damaged. If you must plant a germinated moldy seed, plant it in a separate pot between layers of thinly crushed sterile Perlite (crush before sterilizing). For all other normal healthy seeds proceed with the following directions.

Using a Deck Screw to Form the Hole: I use a clean sterile "deck screw" (they have a very sharp point) for making a hole in the soil for medium to large size seeds. This is done by pressing it into the soil and then turning the screw counterclockwise while lifting. This motion makes for a very clean hole with optimal tapering. Plant the seed inside this tapered hole. If the germinated seed has a long root already formed, just press the screw into the soil deeper while turning in a clockwise direction. Then remove the screw by turning in a counterclockwise direction to form a deep hole to accommodate the extended root.

I usually do not cover my seeds, but rely on careful humidity control and only a single layer of black plastic (from a garbage bag covering the plastic housing container) until the seedling root has oriented itself properly and starts to dig into the potting soil. The alternative (to using a single layer of black plastic) is to cover the seed with a larger sterile piece of expanded vermiculite from the top of the soil mix (using a clean sterile tool to place it there). Scree type plants do not like dew drops to stay on the seedling surface for too long, so some initial uncovering of the housing lid for 1 to 3 hours at the beginning of each daytime period may be appropriate. I find that proper humidity control is the essential concern for growing some of the most difficult plant species. Using a sterile organic free mineral soil and not over fertilizing are easy enough details to handle, even for most beginners.

Plant the seeds in sterile soil filled pots after placing a clean plastic plant label on the inside edge of the pot. I recommend using 5 cm (2 inch) square plastic pots for starting seed. Label each pot with its identification code, the date and the number of seeds planted. I use old recycled white plastic slats from window blinds that are cut into small thin strips with a sharp pointed end, wiped clean with an alcohol damp cloth and marked with a waterproof permanent black marking pen. You should leave the pots inside their translucent plastic storage container with translucent (not colored) plastic lid (see Soil and Pot Sterilization Section). This will help to control the humidity during the first several weeks of seedling growth and keep pests away from the seedlings. These containers should be opened briefly once or twice a week to let in fresh air ) or for longer periods to reduce surface humidity if necessary.

Seed Placement and Covering
Plant only one species per pot in a grid pattern of 4, 5, 9 or 16 seeds, depending on the size of the seeds and how many seeds are available. With very small seeds, dribble them out of the container with an eye dropper sprinkled over the soil surface or plant single seeds into individual holes of appropriate size. Most medium to large size seeds can be removed from their plastic condiment cups using plastic tweezers. I also recommend small plastic bulb type dispensers that you can buy from a large hobby store. You can custom cut off the closed pointed end of the plastic tube to whatever size diameter you want (up to about 1/4 inch round). This is very handy for sucking up larger seeds that are too big for the standard type of glass eye dropper. However, you must use extra care if the seeds have started to germinate in order to prevent root damage (cut a larger size diameter tube on your plastic bulb type dispenser). Headband type binocular magnifying glasses are very useful for working with tiny seeds.

Tool Sterilization Notes: Dip the ends of the seed planting tools (tweezers, bulb dispensers, deck screw, etc.) into boiling water (squeezing the bulb dispensers a few times). Then lay the tools on a fresh clean paper plate to cool and dry until needed.

Planted seeds should not be directly touching any organic matter at the time of planting. After the germinated seeds are planted, their housing containers still need to be covered with 1 layer of black plastic (from a garbage or yard bag) until the roots have started to orient themselves properly and dig down into the soil. This is usually takes about 3 days after planting the germinated seed. Otherwise U.V. light can hinder or stunt initial root and plant growth. The easiest way to do this is to put the housing container inside the black plastic garbage bag, allowing only one layer of black garbage bag plastic to rest on top of the container. Group the pots of planted seeds by their type of climate and monitor the seedling growing temperatures closely as described in the Fully Lighted Growing Room section below.

The Fully Lighted Growing Room
This is a fully illuminated growing area with soaking seeds or plants grouped according to the following 16 hour day and 8 hour night schedule.

Soaking Seeds for Germination: 59F to 62F day and 56F to 58F night
Growing Cold Hardy Plants: 63F day and 59F night
Growing Warmer Climate Plants: 65F to 67F day and 60F night
Growing Tropical or Hot Climate Plants: 69F to 71F day and 61F night

Note that species from warm to hot summer climates may prefer a slight increase in the daytime temperature after they are a few weeks old. However, this is not advised if they are to be transplanted outdoors to help prevent temperature shock.

Soaking seeds should be covered with 2 to 4 layers of black plastic from a garbage bag while in this Fully Lighted Growing Room. However, planted germinated seeds should be covered with only 1 layer of black plastic (from a garbage or yard bag) until the roots have started to orient themselves properly and dig down into the soil. This is usually takes about 3 days after planting the germinated seed. Otherwise U.V. light can hinder or stunt initial root and plant growth. The easiest way to do this is to put the housing container inside the black plastic garbage bag, allowing only one layer of black garbage bag plastic to rest on top of the container.

If the humidity inside the enclosed container is too high, it can be decreased by removing the translucent plastic lid for a few hours each day if necessary until the optimum humidity level is achieved. If you forget to put the lid back on or if the humidity becomes too low, you can increase the humidity by misting the surface of the planted seeds using only distilled water. The housing container should be kept out of direct sunlight in order to control the daytime temperature with better accuracy. If you are growing indoors using fluorescent lights, I recommend using a mixture of cool white and Sylvania/Osram Gro-Lux light bulbs (tubes).

Watering Tips Plus Algae and Aphid Control

Watering Tips
Most of my seedlings are in 2 inch pots on a 1/2 inch layer of planting soil mix which is all inside a plastic housing tub type container to maximize root growth before transplanting. I just top water the plants using a pump type hose sprayer and the excess water will be absorbed by the 1/2 inch layer of soil mix underneath the pots. I also recommend reaming out larger drainage holes on the bottom of most plastic pots (while the pot is dry and before planting) for the roots to grow more freely into the 1/2 inch layer of soil mix underneath the pots.

Algae Control
Dry out the soil surface as much as possible with a warm flow of air. Then apply a thin layer of finely crushed sterile perlite (crush before sterilizing). On top of this layer of perlite, add a layer of medium size rock grit and avoid excessive watering. Use the recommended Working Strength Fertilizer which contains hydrogen peroxide to help prevent excess algae growth.

Aphids
Fill a one quart hand squeeze type mister with warm water, add 2 to 3 drops of liquid dish soap and 2 to 3 drops of Malathion (do not exceed this amount). Allow the surface to air dry after spraying. Do not put a spray treated plant in an enclosed housing container until the leaves or upper soil surface is dry. Repeat the application 48 hours later if necessary. For heavy infestations, mist spray the soil surface lightly in addition to the foliage. Use the mixed solution immediately and discard the remainder if not used within a few days.

Transplanting Cacti Seedlings

Cacti seedlings should not be transplanted unless they are at least 12 mm (1/2 inch) round or 5 cm (2 inches) tall, depending on the species. Upon reaching this size, the cacti can be transplanted to a slightly larger size pot (10 cm square) using a more open textured soil. Therefore, when transplanting into larger size pots, be sure to mix in 2 to 4 parts of pumice or rock gravel to 10 parts of the seed starting soil mix (measured by volume).

I recommend using very large stainless steel tweezer type tongs for transplanting cacti. Make sure the soil is slightly moist, but not excessively damp. Prick out the seedling as cleanly as possible, including as much soil and roots as possible. Use the closed tweezer tongs to form a hole in the pot for planting the seedling and gently nudge the soil around the edges of the seedling after planting. Do not compress the soil! Top water with a fine mist spray very lightly after transplanting and then allow the soil to almost fully dry out before watering again.

Fertilizer for Alpine, Scree and Cacti Plants

Concentrated Fertilizer - (Updated June 10, 2003)
Dissolve the following in order into 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide:
2.75 grams calcium nitrate
2.75 grams of magnesium nitrate
2 grams mono potassium phosphate
0.5 grams potassium nitrate

Remember that the above solution is a concentrated fertilizer and must be diluted before using. For a slightly higher nitrogen fertilizer concentrate, change the calcium nitrate to 3 grams, the magnesium nitrate to 3 grams in the above recipe. Be sure to use the correct pH type soil mix for your seedlings and plants. Proper soil mix will provide the remaining essential required micro-nutrient minerals.

Working Strength Fertilizer (Ready to Use Solution)
For Faster Growing Plants:
1 gallon water
5 to 6 drops of Concentrated Fertilizer
3/4 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide

For Most Cacti, Cliff Dwelling and Scree Type Plants:
1 gallon water
3 to 4 drops of Concentrated Fertilizer
3/4 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide

Germination Seedling Solution - (Seed Soaking Water)
1 gallon of distilled water (or high quality tap water - previously boiled if necessary).
1 drop of Concentrated Fertilizer
3/4 teaspoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide
Use this germination seedling solution for soaking seeds, misting new seedlings or for rooting cuttings.

Cactus Cuttings
Recommended Cutting Medium
6 cups of horticultural grade perlite (use 5 cups for 2 inch pots and use 7 cups for pots larger than 4 inches)
1.5 cups vermiculite
1 cup slightly moist washed river sand (Do not use ocean beach sand!)

Warning: It is best to slightly moisten your bag of perlite and vermiculite by adding some water to the plastic bag and then resealing it. After it sits a few days in the bag, it will be safer to use and less airborne while mixing. Dust from dry vermiculite and perlite can be hazardous to your lungs, which is why it is best to mix while slightly moist. Sand should also be slightly moist before measuring and mixing.

Wet the medium while stirring in a large stainless steel bowl, adding just enough fertilizer water to keep the sand from settling too much on the bottom. If you add too much fertilizer water, the sand will start to settle in the bottom of the bowl upon sitting. I sterilize my cutting medium inside 1 quart size plastic yogurt containers with a snap on lid. If the lid is too tight, poke a small hole in the center with a nail. I use a carousel rotating microwave oven with temperature probe stuck into the middle of a container through the plastic lid. I microwave several containers at a time on full power to 200F and then hold it at that temperature for 15 minutes using the digital program on the microwave. Allow to cool 30 to 60 minutes before removing. I prefer to cover the hole over the container lid with a piece of tape to keep it sterile (do not take off the lid until ready to plant your cutting).

Making the Cut
Lightly mist spray the areas to be cut with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Allow the cactus to dry before making the cut, but quickly blot off the excess alcohol on sensitive plants using a clean paper tissue. If you have heavy amounts of spines, you may have to use a heavier mist spray or avoid cutting through the spine base area. Use a sterile sharp blade for cutting. Remove pups by cutting them off close to their base using a sterile blade. Recent comparison tests have shown that pups which are twisted off for rooting will not grow as many roots or grow as quickly compared to a pup which is carefully cut off.

Healing and Planting the Cutting
I now use a clean (recycled) plastic quart yogurt container with lid for holding the cutting while it heals. Place a thin layer of sterile (oven baked) dry sand onto the bottom of the clean plastic container. Lay your cut pup or cactus cutting on its side, at an angle or upside down on top of this sterile layer of sand and seal the lid on the plastic container. Do not let the cut surfaces touch anything, although the spines can come in contact with the side of the plastic container if not too close to the cut surfaces. Leave the cutting in this container in a shady or dimly illuminated location for about 4 weeks allowing the cut surfaces to become calloused. Then as soon as a new root appears, you can plant the cutting in damp sterilize cutting medium and grow under brighter illumination. However, do not expose the rooted cutting to full sunlight until new growth appears.

Rooting Ariocarpus, Aztekium, Obregonia and Strombocactus
This new procedure is a much easier and less tedious than my prior method for detaching these types of plants. Sensitive cacti prone to excessive dehydration (upon cutting) such as Ariocarpus, Aztekium, Obregonia and Strombocactus can be easily rooted in the following manner.

Initial Preparation: If you are detaching pups you will you need to have a clean and ready to use compatible stock plant such as Pereskiopsis or any other type of compatible stock plant which has lots of gooey sap upon cutting. If you are degrafting a scion, you can use the sap of the original stock plant.

Removal of a Grafted Scion: Cut off the scion about 1/2 to 1 inch below the union (area grafted) on the stock plant. If the stock plant doesn't have gooey sap upon cutting, then use the gooey sap from a clean ready to use compatible stock plant. Cut off the scion from the remaining stock stump piece, cutting just above the point of union and be careful not to touch the cut tissues of the scion. Make sure none of the original stock tissue is on the cut surface of the scion, or make another thin slice to remove the old stock tissue.

Immediately after cutting, dip the fresh cut surface of the removed scion into the clean sterile sap of the original stock plant (be very careful not to touch, bruise or damage the cut tissue). Make sure there are no air bubbles in the sap which is coating the cut scion surface. Allow the cut sap to thicken on the scion surface (while turned upside down) and start to dry inside the large translucent plastic storage container (see the above Healing the Pup or Cutting section). When the sap becomes nearly dry (after just a few hours or up to 1 day later), you should repeat the sap application by making a fresh cut on the compatible stock plant. Make absolutely certain that no debris, spines or other dirty tissue comes into contact with the sap. Remember this is still a form of surgery and things need to be sterile. Then allow the cutting to heal normally. Unless this second application of sterile sap dries up too quickly, you should not need to repeat the sap application a third time.

Removal of a Cut Pup: Use the same directions as above, but make sure you have a ready to use compatible type stock plant which has lots of gooey juice before cutting off the pup. Otherwise, you should find the appropriate type of stock plant such as Selenicereus grandiflorus , Pereskiopsis or some of the gooey sap species of Echinocereus or Trichocereus. With cold hardy type scions you can use the sap from Opuntia fragilis.


Posted by: ion Jun 11 03, 02:23 AM GMT
I see you like that site... tongue.gif

I stand by the official ruling:

Nobody knows anything about cacti.

It's all so friggin relative to so many variables, that nobody could ever make sense of it all! Yeah, sure, their cacti grow just great, but the other guy's cacti grow just as well... and they use totally opposite methods! Well, except they all agree on one thing (and even they don't really know why): Don't use beach sand.

That's it! I'm gonna go invent a totally new soil mix comprised almost entirely of easter egg shells (the dye helps them grow!) and candy (they need simple sugars to effectively eliminate waste products from the air they breathe through their roots!) with a little bit of desert sand thrown in for good luck. I'm gonna saturate it with triple-strength fertilizer that I made out of steeping cow manure in gasoline, diluted with a dram of colchicine. Then I'm gonna cut the cacti into thin strips, which I will then graft to the side of my house to ward off crotchety old men and dogs. The new grafts will need plenty of hot, bright moonlight during the winter months, so I'm gonna have to rig up a reflector satellite in the northeastern az... wait a minute! I could turn this into a tek!

Sorry folks... had to vent...

-ion

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 11 03, 11:54 AM GMT
Vent? Vent what?

What?Were you offended by this post?

Just trying to widen the scope of perception here, I mean we only have like one soil recipie to chose from. Different strokes, homie, different strokes.

I mean so you think that all the above info is total dumbass cacti myth BS, or what?

Enlighten me?

I have 4 pedros sittin in concrete right now, Im open. mellow.gif

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 11 03, 11:57 AM GMT
QUOTE
That's it! I'm gonna go invent a totally new soil mix ....




Uh oh! I feel a name change for me coming on.... Cactusmax...
Cactusmaximus biggrin.gif



My focus is begining to shift to a new obsession, move over hombre, coming thru devil.gif devil.gif

Doubt me? thats all I need for motivation biggrin.gif



Cactusmax

Posted by: ion Jun 11 03, 09:39 PM GMT
laugh.gif

Nah, man... I'm just frustrated with the variability of the information available. It seems that everyone has a "fool-proof" soil or method... but in the end, they all work about the same...

But that's what's irritating. We cannot possibly pin down exactly what cacti want from us! We feed them too little, they grow or don't grow... we feed them too much, they grow or don't grow... we give them basic soil, they grow or don't grow... we give them compact, non-draining concrete for soil... and, yes, they will grow... or they won't.

They're like women with thorns... I suppose that's exactly like most women I know, then... tongue.gif

I appreciate you bringing in the new information, but it still doesn't help me understand the dang cacti! rolleyes.gif

-ion

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 12 03, 02:46 PM GMT
I hear ya.
The grafts in the concrete are still fattening up, so it must not be too bad.?

I have mixed and re mixed soil/s for about two weeks now, trying to get a good draining mix. Prolley spent 75$+$ on various soils rocks and composts This stuff pisses me off. I got a ton of limed soil that these cacti will never see. I dont know what to do with the bad mixes, they are good but dont drain well enough IMO for cacti. Its some work to make it but hey, do what cha gotta. Im sifting and straining, washing, and mixing.

I think Ive got it now though, took a bit of work but this last mix should drain like a champ when I get done. Im potting this mix today and hopefully posting the ever expanding garden today as well.



Gotta run


Cactusmax tongue.gif

Posted by: indigostar Jun 12 03, 06:40 PM GMT
LOL

so funny

I will fully support your name change, cactusmax.

Ion: i believe i saw that tek somewhere, but they used candy corn.

NUBS!!

Posted by: ion Jun 13 03, 03:32 AM GMT
My most recent tests are leaning toward my nemesis... perlite... bleah.gif
It's easily available, fairly inexpensive, and pretty darn porous. The biggest bitch about it is that the stuff floats... over time, it can work its way to the surface of the soil by this floating phenomenon. mad.gif

I do have one other option. I have a bag of special calcined clay (crazy pro-gardener stuff... top shelf and all that). I'll see how it works, and if it tests well, I'll find some sources for the adventurous. wink.gif

-ion

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 01:02 PM GMT
I have the mix! Drains like the sink. Pour water into the pot and its like pouring it on the floor! STRAIGHT THROUGH! IT DOES HOLD A LITTLE THOUGH.


IN A minuete...



cactusmax

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:10 PM GMT
1 gallon of old composted dung ( measured in a zip lock gallon)
1 gallon of topsoil (no peat)
1 gallon of limestone chips
1/2 gallon of chat
1 1/2 cups lime/mg powder



THe catch is the chat needs to be screened to get the small binder dirt/sand out of it. Then wash it till the run off is clear. I also washed the limestone chips as well.
With the dung I didnt break it up into smaller pieces just marble sized chunks some bigger some smaller.
When mixed properly it wont pack, even when soaked. The pedro is in the soil, but till it takes a good root, dont move em much. The soil seems to be the perfect draining mixture. We shall see how it does over time.

chat- or compacting gravel used in construction, often used for leveling surfaces for paving, roads, sidewalks etc.)

here is chat in its normal state


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:12 PM GMT
it will compact if you dont screen and sift well enough. Use a flexi screen to do large amounts quickly.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:13 PM GMT
After screening you will have a light but easily compacting silt.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:14 PM GMT
It has lots of fine sand and dirt in the silt, toss this stuff in some flower beds.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:16 PM GMT
Now you have a bunch of dirty large grain sand and small rocks.



Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:17 PM GMT
Wash them till it drains clear, no muddy water.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 13 03, 06:19 PM GMT
The biggest thing is to make sure the soil is of all relatively med /large soil ingredients.no fine stuff, Beach sand, silt, etc.


Cactusmaximus tongue.gif

Posted by: ion Jun 14 03, 12:15 AM GMT
Funny name... from the looks of the stuff, I'd say it's a combination of the two major mineral components: chert (flint) and other chalcedony... both of these are silicic minerals in the quartz family... they are the major components of sand. wink.gif

Good work! biggrin.gif

*edited for spelling rolleyes.gif

-ion

Posted by: MajorBuzz Jun 14 03, 12:22 AM GMT
Chat huh? I'll have to try it.

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 14 03, 12:47 PM GMT
that may not be the real name of the stuff. Im from the country (sorta) and thats all Ive ever head it called. Ever since I was a kid, youll hear it allot around concrete laborers, and construction sites.
When I finished re potting everything I was watering and when I do so the water just flushes out the bottom! I mean allot of the water too, almost 1/3 1/2 of the water poured in comes out the bottom. Is that too much? I mean there seems to be plenty of soil.
Note that the bottom 1/4 of the pots are rock. larger limestone chips then some chat, then soil. On the top of the soil I put more limestone and chat to even out water distribution and prvent the soil from "sealing" up once dry.
limestone chunks in the very bottom.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 14 03, 12:48 PM GMT
A layer of chat to help keep the soil from draining out the bottom.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 14 03, 12:50 PM GMT
Now add your soil mix and cactus, then more lstone / chat over the top.


Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 14 03, 12:53 PM GMT
finished soil, when mixing it reminded me allot of texas soil, where you would find lots of prickly pear cacti. Sucks to dig texas soil with a shovel, seems like nothing but rock.


Posted by: Lophophophile Jun 15 03, 11:31 PM GMT
impressive soil endeavour, max smile.gif
don't start neglecting your precious mushies now that you're all worked up over your cacti

Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jun 16 03, 12:56 AM GMT
QUOTE (Lophophophile @ Jun 15 03, 10:31 PM GMT)
impressive soil endeavour, max smile.gif
don't start neglecting your precious mushies now that you're all worked up over your cacti

I have ohmy.gif blush.gif shh.gif

Damn homer system ran dry for over a day and ruined a whole cycle of fruits. Turned em blue and shriveled the smaller guys sad.gif

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