|Water Delivery to Casings||1||5/03||Nan|
|Misting the ol casing with water and h2o2||3||chummy|
|Fanning Casings (btm pg)||-|
|By nuecrew (Nue) on Tuesday, December 25, 2001 - 08:02 am:|
Actually the first straw tek I started 3 months ago I tossed with the green mold that grew on it. Its taken two months to get this far with the second one. The pins that started two weeks ago have been wary of popping up. In the cracks and spaces in the peat I can see swarms of pins waiting to come out. I can also see many pins through the plastic underneath against the straw. I quit misting not wanting to inhibit fruiting. I pulled a little of the straw out and it is very moist. The casing is getting dry. I do keep it partially covered with an aquarium style top to keep in some of the humidity. My feeling is that the pinning may be stalling as some of the pins have turned gray and shriveled. I made this per Nans' Straw tek tips with Worm casting extender. 15 x 22", straw is 2" deep, casing about 1/2". Pics are end to end. Next straw tek I'll use the faster PF strain.
|By Nan (Nanook) on Tuesday, December 25, 2001 - 06:13 pm:|
It looks too dry. I would
Soak It. I know people say not to mist the pins... If you have a choice between two evils (misting pins or allowing a casing to dry)... Mist. Get it moist, fan a couple of extra times... The pins won't hate you for it.
You can also inject clean water into a casing just below the surface in lots of little spots
When my casing are dry, I mist the sidewalls of the container to increase the humidity.
|By ShrooMaster (Shroomaster) on Tuesday, December 25, 2001 - 09:07 pm:|
ive noticed on some strains the first flsh is all abrts then the 'second' flush pops up and is always killer.
|By nuecrew (Nue) on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 06:43 pm:|
Thanks for the input!
|By AdNauseam (Mystrysabsynth) on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 08:42 pm:|
Wondering why some would be blueing whilst still on their casing?? I have stopped misting and they are in a 88% RH terr. Casing is shrinking, so could it be they need water? Can you inject H2o into the casing itself at different spots to re-hydrate so to speak?
|By ShrooMaster (Shroomaster) on Thursday, December 27, 2001 - 04:06 am:|
i woudnt try to stick a needle in the casing. ive noticed that sometimes that portins of a shroom will turn blue [usually well before the cap opens and the blue starts below the cap but doest extend all the way to the bottm of the shroom] for no apparent reason. i dont think the shrooms would start turning blue because the cake was hungr, theyd just start shrivling.
|By Nan (Nanook) on Thursday, December 27, 2001 - 06:03 am:|
Needles in casings to rehydrate works, but it should have been soaked
|By quote: (Quote) on Thursday, December 27, 2001 - 03:31 pm:|
the ones turning blue are dying of thirst,
and yes, you can use a syringe to wet a fruiting casing, just spread it around, a cc here and there.
|By AdNauseam (Mystrysabsynth) on Thursday, December 27, 2001 - 07:22 pm:|
As usual..THANK YOU GUYS!
What would I do w/out ya?
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 06:52 am:|
I am trying the temp drop during fruiting stage..
My only q is how can I keep humidity up and temp low..?
Ive always fruited at around 85, and I'd like try for around 73..and dont seem to be generating the humidity..should I worry?
Fruits are starting to show up..By the way these are casings, done like 9er and hongus.
|By Anno Nymer (Anno) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 02:00 pm:|
>and dont seem to be generating the humidity
What makes you think that?
|By quote: (Quote) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 02:55 pm:|
supplement by hand misting, or add a cool mist.
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 04:48 pm:|
Well, maybe it is generating some. I have noticed the mist on the top of the tub has gone away...
Quote, Im a little worried about hand misting, because of all of the water damage reports Ive read...Would I just spray lightly over the surface?
You know....normally I would have never worried about such things...and then my buddy told me about The Nook....
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 07:35 pm:|
If you have myc poking through the casing layer, which I assume you do, since you are trying to initiate pinning, be wary of ever directly spraying your casing layer.
By the time you intitiate pinning, your substrate should already have enough water to sustain the flush.
The hand misting is really just meant to boost of supplent your main humidity source, if you are working with perlite. This is accomplished by misting the walls of the terrarium after fanning.
A little overspray on the casing layer shouldn't hurt things though.... but be wary of spraying them directly
Hope that helps.
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 07:46 pm:|
Definitely does..thank you..
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Tuesday, January 01, 2002 - 07:55 pm:|
You are quite welcome...
|By Ron (Clubbenguy) on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 09:49 pm:|
Well, my humidity level inside my version of a terrarium stays about 88-90% (I have cased already). However, I am using a red heat lamp as my method of keeping the temp inside right at 80 degrees. My question concerns the top layer of the casing. I used Scholls Potting soil plus mix (which contains peat moss) as the top level of my casing. This layer of the casing seems to dry out, so I can move it around almost like sand. Is this ok??? I mist 3-4 times a day and my terrarium consists of a 10 gal aquarium with a rubbermaid container inside the aquarium floating on about three inches of water. Even when I dont mist there is a TON of water droplets on the walls 24 hrs a day, so that is an evident sign of humidity. Should I spray the soil directly??? (no signs of pinning yet). Thanks
|By quote: (Quote) on Tuesday, January 08, 2002 - 03:05 pm:|
you don't want it so dry it's like sand, because then the mycellia won't grow into it.
a little misting of the casing is ok if needed, until pinning begins.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 08:11 pm:|
How can I add moisture to a casing in order to prolong the fruiting stage? I have read that dunking a full terrium style cake can greatly increase yeilds. Is there any similar method for a casing? I'm looking for max yields...
|By plinkerdink420 (Plinkerdink420) on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 09:01 pm:|
if my casing seems to be getting a little dry, i just give it a few squirts... i try to avoid the fruitbodies, but usually get them with the mist from time to time... some people frown upon this and would say to use a syringe to inject water into your casing... i'm just too lazy...
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 04:59 pm:|
Does anyone have any experience with rehydrating casing after a flush?
Is dunking a bit extreme?
If not, then should they just get put back into their trays after?
Ive never tried it and have had good yeilds, but now I'm wondering and havent read anything regarding it.
I have done injections which, I guess, have helped with later flushes...Recasing works well as well as spawning the leftovers, which is what I usually do.
Now that I've dunked some cakes and seen the results, I wonder how it would affect casings??
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 05:44 pm:|
What does the substrate in your casing consist of?
If it is made from rice cakes, it should take to dunking nicely.
Grains are much harder to dunk, and no-one that I know has been able to document repeatable success stories with dunked grains.
If you can nail it down, write the Tek... and you'll be (sort-of) famous.
I like to re-case myself.
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 06:08 pm:|
rye seed.. I have been dunking rye cakes with great success..its just that these are
everything I do is spawned rye, whether its cased or flatcakes.. Its notpf or mmgg or any of that..
my big worry is : can I pull it out of the tray, dunk it, then put it back into the tray..am I asking for water damage troubles??
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 06:16 pm:|
I worked with rye berries when I did dunking with grains.
I would let your substrate drain well after a dunk, then blot it dry on the outsides with some paper towels or something, and then put it in the fridge to recover for a day before re-casing.
My limited success with dunked casings were done along these lines, roughly.
|By quote: (Quote) on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 04:14 pm:|
seems like the casing holds too much water after dunking..
if i were to try again, i think i'd strip off the old casing, dunk just the rye/grain itself, drain well then re-case with fresh materials.
|By kobayashi (Impalerzz) on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 04:19 pm:|
yeah quo thats kinda like what Ive been doing...just not dunking.
|By ggg (Ggg) on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 09:56 am:|
I like the idea of the-
"holes in the bottom of the cake pan - 1/4" of perlite on the bottom of the casing" tek.
You can set the casing pan in a shallow pool of clean water and the water is drawn into the holes wetting the perlite layer in the bottom of the pan.
Nan told me this tek was refered to him by Quo.
Is this a bad tek?
I guess things could get too wet if your water was too deep or left your casing in the water too long.
|By quote: (Quote) on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 02:43 am:|
correct, it works ok short-term, but can hurt if left too long.
|By Dr. Cubensis (Shroomzilla) on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 06:42 pm:|
" seems like the casing holds too much water after dunking.. "
Hmmm, My friend threw all of his dunked dung/seed
into quart jars, around 50 of them, and pinning has not only began, but humidity is high and not a single jar has been lost so far.. Though my friend hasn't looked in the back of the forward jars, moving scores of jars around is a lot of work! LOL!
Dunking rye. So far, so good. After a grain transfer from quarts to half pints, my friend threw
around 1/2 to 3/4 inch dry verm on top, tipped jars upside down. And the rye has all but dissapeared in the mycelium. Re transferring newly knitted cakes to quarts this evening.. Will keep ya updated.
|By Anonyshroomer (A3d0a3m) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 04:37 pm:|
Should I mist the casing layer directly? Even if there are pins can I mist around it? Is it ok to touch the layer to check moisture levels with a recently alcohol sterilized finger?
Also is 1 part peroxide to 2 parts water too harsh to mist with?
|By quote: (Quote) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 05:20 pm:|
you can directly mist [lightly] the casing, but should avoid misting pins.
you can inject water with syringe to get around pins.
it'd be best to wear sterile gloves when touching the casing, until you learn to judge moisture content by eye.
the correct dilution of peroxide is 1 part peroxide to 20 parts water,
and misting casings with peroxide should be avoided, as it slows growth.
|By chummy (Chummy) on Thursday, February 07, 2002 - 11:23 pm:|
I have one cake left to case tomorrow...today is the 7th...I must leave march 15th...will I get shrooms?
I have cased four cakes in a foil lined plastic tub..tonight they go in the fridge as the temp they have been in for the past 5 days has fluctuated too greatly I believe to intiate pinning..I have changed the lid three times in dubiously clean environments....I noticed water dropping on the casing surface when I changed the lid...yet I did not notice any contams when I changed the lid today..Is my main casing under contamination threat?Thanks anyway
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, February 08, 2002 - 01:32 am:|
water dripping onto the casing can definitly lead to contam problems. don't want to let that go on too long, maybe smear the lid's undersurface with petroleum jelly, i.e. vasoline, etc.
that will help.
as for shrooms in 7 days from casing, doubtful.