|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 03:26 pm:|
First of all, hi to all here. I've been offline for a bit and hope all are having success with their adventures in mycology. I was hoping to have my methods critiqued and to ask a question of the resident experts here.
I have three casings started with a well known person's cambodians. I did a mycellium water culture and innoculated quart jars with Finch seed. With the first fully coloized jar I pressure cooked my filet knife and freed the cake from the jar.
1.) Sandwiched crumbled caked between two half inch layers of mixture (Peat/Verm 70/30), covered w/ saran wrap and cold shocked @ 42deg F for 19 hours.
2.) It was placed in a 68 - 71deg F deg F environment with low light.
3.) After 2 days, I thought the casing was a bit too dry and not providing the proper
micro-climate so I un-cased it but did find excellent mycellial growth (see photo) , as a matter of fact, I was able to get two casings from this one cake.
4.) I layed them on a bed of perlite (1/2 inch bed,1/4 inch water added), covered them with Peat/verm mix, covered with foil, placed in environment described in step #2.
5.) Afer 36 hours mycellial growth has broken through surface in several places, (see
Questions: What sort of time table am I looking at here as far as expecting pinning?
Are my techniques proper?
If not, what can I do to Initiate Pinning?
Thanks and again good luck to all!
|By quote: (Quote) on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 04:35 pm:|
so far, so good.
your temps are just a bit low, i'd try for 75*F.
you want it to grow fast, to forestall contams getting any foothold.
exposing them to light will initiate pinning,
once it's colonized the casing layer.
i'd say you're on track,
pinning should start in a week or so.
btw, nice to 'see' you again.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 05:14 pm:|
So at this point I should remove the foil and put em' in the chamber or should I let the surface colonize first?
And thanks, it's good to be back
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 08:18 pm:|
Hey Mr. B.... I'd wait just a little bit longer to intitiate pinning.
Looks good though.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Thursday, January 10, 2002 - 09:55 pm:|
Actually, the pics are from jars knocked up on Nov. 25. The mycellial water tek really speeds things up for sure. I think I'm getting the bugs worked out of my system. I'm trying some BRF in quart jars now. I fear the only verm I could get my hands on is a bit fine but I'll do what I always do in this hobby, wait and see...
Hey Brettiejams, how long would you say to wait to Cold-Shock?
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 12:41 am:|
i'd remove the foil and place in the chamber in another couple days.
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 03:19 am:|
I agree with Quote... couple of days probably.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 08:06 pm:|
This was cased on the 7th of Jan. I initiated pinning on the 12th. I have 80% humidity, 75 deg F. Is this looking ok to those of you who have cased before?
|By quote: (Quote) on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 02:32 am:|
you've lowered your humidity too soon,
you want to keep it at 90%rh until after pinning begins.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 02:13 pm:|
I'm a bit concerned about these casings which I believe should be pinning by now. They have been at a constant 74-76 deg F. I have no idea what the humidity has been as I have no reliable way to monitor it. I have an ultrasonic humidifier running and I can see tiny droplets on the mycellium and an extemely fine (almost nothing) mist on the sides of the chamber. The casings themselves feel a tiny bit damp but are definitely drier than when they were cased on the 8th of Jan. I keep them in containers painted black and covered them with foil until the 12th of Jan. Mycellial growth seems to have stalled about 36 hours ago and I'm thinking I should see some signs of pinning. Any ideas or comments? Should I cold shock them in the fridge or what?
Thanks again and happy shrooming...
|By quote: (Quote) on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 02:20 pm:|
you're just being impatient, friend.
they've only been getting light for 3 days.
and you might want to back that ultrasonic off a bit,
water droplets on the mycellia is a no-no.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 05:22 pm:|
ok quote and thanks again. In any of the teks for casing I have read, no time frame is really mentioned. So the stalling of surface growth is of no concern then right?
Oh and as far as the droplets on the mycellia are concerned I did take the precaution of adding a bit of H2O2 to the tank and to the perlite in advance.
|By quote: (Quote) on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 03:18 pm:|
the surface growth should stall as it prepares to pin.
the addition of peroxide to the ultrasonic does not make it ok for water droplets to be on the mycellia.
you need to adjust your hose so no water droplets get on your casing, and the peroxide just makes matters worse by slowing growth.
|By Mr. B (Argonaut) on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 03:43 pm:|
I guess I'm a bit confused on that. I see in the archives that H2O2 is used straight to kill cobweb mold... I thought that adding just a tiny bit would keep mold at bay since we are talking about standing water here, prime breeding ground for all manner of nasties...
|By quote: (Quote) on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 04:08 pm:|
as long as it stays in the humidifier, that's fine.
but peroxide will slow mycellial growth to a crawl, and should only be used on living tissue in an emergency, not routine.
|By Djdizzydaniel (Djdizzydaniel) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 11:10 am:|
I just cased two cakes, the 1st I cased about 1/3" thick on bottom and 1/4" thick on top. The 2nd I cut into four small disks and cased each in its own lid the same amount of casing as above. I used straight wet verm for my casings.
Here's my questions:
1) Should I have light on or off while I wait for the mycelium to colonize the new verm, I was suggested to leave it off for the first three days, is this a good idea?
2) Also I read that it was a good idea to cover the outsides of my aquarium so the mushrooms would grow straight up towards light. Is this a good idea?
* Clear or translucent is fine unless you are Casing, then you should prevent light from striking anywhere below the casing layer - Nan
3) How would mushrooms grow under a blacklight?
4) For some reason once my veils bust on my mushrooms, they usually havn't even reached 2" tall yet, I spray 2-4 times a day, and fan everytime I spray, my room temp is moderatley warm. The light is also on 24 hrs a day. What's up with this? I dont think they are degenerated PF spores because I bought some PF spores a long time ago and had the same problem.
5) Is it best to have a REAL warm temp for large shrooms?
6) Does the quality really degrade alot when you let the caps open to plate shape? Or is it just once they drop spores?
Any help would be appreciated. Danx!)~
|By plinkerdink420 (Plinkerdink420) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 02:14 pm:|
i wouldn't expose the casing to light until it is about halfway done colonizing the top.... you could cover the outside of your terrarium if you want them to grow "straight" up, but it don't really matter as long as they grow right?... don't know about that blacklight, though... never tried it... the size of your mushies might be caused from the size of your substrate... small substrate produces small shrooms, if they are fruiting, then they prolly aren't the degenerated spores... i don't understand your temp question... if you mean do higher temps make for larger shrooms, then no, they don't.... i believe that once the veil breaks, that it begins to lose potency... hope that helped
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 07:07 pm:|
Good job, Plink!
And, yes, they will grow under long UV (your blacklight), but this kind of "specific wavelength" light isn't the best for promotion of pinning. Broad spectrum is best to insure you really activate the photoreceptor cells.
Also, warm temps only equals fast growing shrooms, which can also lead to splitting and quick dehydration. Your call.
|By Djdizzydaniel (Djdizzydaniel) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 08:21 pm:|
Is the size of my shrooms normal for 1/2 pint canning jar cakes? Does this mean I will get tiny shrooms from my 1/4 cakes tek? Can I atleast expect to get more yield from all the 1/4 cakes combined then if I had left it in one piece since I'm getting small shrooms anyways on whole cakes.
As for leaving the light off for first half of colonization, how long is first half, the three days I was suggested?
|By Snoopy (Snoopy) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 09:54 pm:|
DJdd - The size of the cake in my experience doesn't really matter but the strain does matter. I had a 36gram 11" EQ grow from a 1/2pint wide mouth cake. All the other cakes from that syringe never produced a shroom bigger than perhaps 5 inchs. So what it comes down to is a roll of the dice. Now there are some things you can do to help them grow bigger. Make sure your cakes are plenty wet. Dunk after birth is what I would say.
For casings once I case the mycelium I leave it in complete darkness for 4-5 days. Than I expose to light while still covered in seranwrap. After another 2-3 days I scratch the casing and than put in terrarium and expose to light whenever I open my closet door to check on them.
|By plinkerdink420 (Plinkerdink420) on Monday, January 21, 2002 - 11:19 pm:|
your whole half pint cake will generally produce bigger mushies than if you split it up into pieces... however, you may find a greater overall weight from a split cake...
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 - 03:48 am:|
...due to increased surface area, and thus, faster fructification before contamination.