|God Damn Contams||1||Cbee|
|Buck Lysol and corporate culture||36||Sporeboy|
|By venusfly (Venus) on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 10:38 pm:|
Are there any good non-toxic sprays that one could use to reduce contams.I strongly dislike the use of Lysol and such.Much too unnatural to me anyway.
|By An guy (Boomer) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 04:43 am:|
H2O2- hyd peroxide, use it in a spray bottle- use a new jug every time. It decays and loses it's effectiveness. It degrades to oxygen and water.
|By relic (Relic) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 05:46 am:|
actually if you buy h2o2 in the big economy size bottles, you can screw the sprayer nozzle right on, same threads
then you don't have to worry about degradation.
you could probably use nozzles on the smaller bottles too, just force the tube to curl around the bottom of the bottle
|By An guy (Boomer) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 06:09 am:|
Well dang- how cool is that?
I duct taped a jug- hell with that, I'm goin with your idea....thanks relic!
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 02:21 pm:|
peroxide is just a
it's good to use when you must disinfect living shroom tissue, because it won't kill it.
but for general room cleaning, equipment, etc. it's just not a good choice.
bleach water is cheap, and very effective for those kinds of chores.
|By relic (Relic) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 05:17 pm:|
i agree with that quote. i use lysol. i try to stay away from using h2o2 for shrooms as well if possible. i thought about adding that but to each his own and he doesn't want to use lysol, so bleach water is prolly out of the question as well, so i let it be.
|By Brad (Raze) on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 10:23 pm:|
I'm using 70% isopropry alcohol for all of my sterilization needs, as well as an alcohol burner. Now what I noticed the other day when I was wiping the lids of some jars before innoculating, is that it would quickly evaporate for the large part, then leave little droplets on top. I was afraid to seel them up with these there, because i didnt want alcohol getting into my jars. But then I figured this was the 30% water, just beading on top, am I right to assume this?
|By quote: (Quote) on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 10:38 pm:|
prolly correct, makes sense to me.
but if you then cover the lids w/foil, nothing gets in.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 11:07 pm:|
Yea, prolly water like quote says.
Go to a drugstore, like thrifties, rite aid ect...
and for a quarter more ( like $1.20 ) you can get the 91 percent.... That stuff is GREAT!!! Specially for sterilizing knives, tongs and scalpels
|By Brad (Raze) on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 11:24 pm:|
I've never seen 91% around.
And I only use foil to PC. After innoculating I replace the foil with tape.
My first 12 jars were with foil, its such a pain with the krinkling noise, tearing of foil... By the time I tossed several contamed (dirty syringe) the foil was almost totally torn off everywhere.
It looks so much prettier with tape, makes my life easier. But the use of wiping with alcohol was just a quick wipe when I innoculated, to kill anything that may be there, just an extra step.
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 06:43 am:|
Here's the scoop:
Antibacterial soap kills about 99% of bacteria.
Alcohol kills bacteria and can render most spores unviable.
Bleach destroys everything.
The soap takes one full minute for it's claims (yes, that means that washing your hands with it requires a full minute to be effective). It leaves a film if not rinsed. (duh...)
Iso takes about fifteen minutes to kill stuff, but leaves sterile water behind which can get infected easily when exposed to dirty air.
Bleach kills on contact, but will leave a residue of impurities which can also kill stuff or keep it from growing for a small time.
Use bleach in your wash water for utensils, jars, etc. Wipe all work surfaces with bleach. Sterilize hands with Iso alc. after washing with antibac. Spray iso into the air of the glove box as long as you don't have any flames going. Use a small dish of bleach for dipping contaminated instruments, and a small piece of paper towel (which should be moist from the alc spraying) to wipe them off. Everything will smell horrible, but you'll get used to it...
|By Nan (Nanook) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 07:11 am:|
Iodine Sanitizers also work extremely well, are persistent, and are relatively non-toxic (Iodine is a required trace element in humans). When sanitizing be sure to leave surfaces wet for a few minutes in order for the sanitizer to work.
"Iodophor: An excellent no-rinse sanitizer.
Great for bottling, or any time a rinse is impractical. Requires 2 minute contact time. The most popular sanitizer among brewpubs & microbreweries. Iodine base sanitizers can cause stains"
I don't see any problem with replacing the foil cover with tape after inoculating Brad. But if the foil covers are getting all torn up it's because the jars are handled too much. Next to improper storage, physically handling the jars is the #2 source of contams after a clean inoculation.
|By Brad (Raze) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 12:38 pm:|
Havent had any contams due to handling them. I just like to peak at em
|By boomer (Cmos) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 12:46 pm:|
Ok, I noticed that quote said if you use foil, nothing will get in. I don't know what I did wrong, but, I used foil, sealed it as good as possible, then I PC'ed all of my jars. When I went to inoculate them, some of the jars had moisture under the foil, and on top of the lid. I didn't use tape, so this worried me obviously. How did the water get under my foil?? It was even under the foil of some of the jars that I stacked. The water wasn't boiling profusely or anything, just a nice gentle boil. I can't figure out how they got water under them, and now I'm expecting to lose a few jars to contams, because I know some of the water got in to the jars. Any ideas on this?
|By quote: (Quote) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 12:59 pm:|
that's perfectly normal condensation.
as the pc cools, steam turns to liquid, and a few droplets will inevitably be left on the lid under the foil..
that doesn't mean that your jars are ruined,
just wipe it off.
i was refering to the foil preventing dripping water from the pc's lid getting in through the holes, a much more serious threat.
|By Brad (Raze) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 01:28 pm:|
Oh, I use bleach on my jars to wash them, but other than that I dont use it. I dont wanna mist the air with it, because I'm afraid it will leach the colours from the wall paper and stuff
|By boomer (Cmos) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 02:02 pm:|
Thats great to hear.
|By jared (Jared112) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 04:37 pm:|
|By Snoopy (Snoopy) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 07:38 pm:|
I also use foil of course when PCing my jars. Just to keep water from seeping in and ruining the ratio. However after PCing and then innoculating I haven't covered the holes with tape, and to date I have had very few contams maybe 1 jar in 15. I guess I attribute this to the dry layer of verm that I put ontop of the substrate in the jar. If you don't already do this I recommend it because I think it has kept me for the most part pretty happy. = )
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 10:45 pm:|
I didn't say to mist with bleach! No, no! Mist with isopropyl alcohol inside the glove box.
|By Brad (Raze) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 01:56 am:|
A lot of people say to mist with bleach water. I prefer not to use bleach...
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 07:22 am:|
You were cleaning the bathroom! (you just have to actually do it.) Wait a minute... the drug propaganda commercials say to look for unusual behavior in your teen... what the hell is normal when you have that level of hormones raging through your body!? Those bastards have screwed up everything for you young'ns, haven't they...
Well, just wait until you have your own place. Sorry, but it really is the only way for matters of discretion. Good luck!
|By Brad (Raze) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 07:34 am:|
Bah, I cant wait 9 months. Besides, I'm too far into this to turn back
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 09:26 am:|
You said "Bah". I like you...
That's a little sarcasm left over from another post... I had to.
No Foaming - Cleaner/ Sanitizing Spray (Note: You can use the same amount liquid automatic dishwashing
detergent in place of powder)
Great Sanitizer spray on plastic. Makes sanitizing a snap.
Great for cruddy bins. Very harsh, do not use on or near cakes or trays.
900 cc of clean water
100 cc of normal strength plain bleach
2 tablespoons powdered automatic dishwashing detergent
Glass or plastic container to mix
Plastic spray bottle
I use a graduated canning jar to measure the liquid. Hold back 100 cc of water. Add 2 tablespoons powdered automatic dishwashing detergent to the 100 cc cold water and heat in the microwave until boiling. Stir the hot detergent solution until dissolved, using the spoon to crush up any stubborn granuals.
Combine all liquids, pour into a plastic spray bottle.
The spray is non-foaming and the detergent and bleach are stable and non-fuming. This solution spreads a beautiful, strong, sanitizing film on plastic surfaces, no beading. It does require a wipe or a rinse to prevent detergent residue.
I have been using it to clean pet equipment as well and have been very pleased with this formula. - Nan
No Foaming - Cleaner/ Sanitizing Spray
(Note: You can use the same amount liquid automatic dishwashing detergent in place of powder)