|Does anyone here have Fridge Chamber experience??||24||01/04 09:35pm||Dr. Cubesis III|
|By Hudsonismss (Hudsonismss) on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 10:28 pm:|
I've decided to use a mini-fridge to grow my new Indian strain (thanks to monkeyod) for the cold of winter. Seeing as it is well insulated, all i need to do is provide a good heat and light source. What i think i'm goin to do is just run a light bulb or two into it to provide all the heat and light i should need for each stage of the process. My question is what kind of light bulb would work best for providing the most heat? as well as the right kind of light for the fruiting stage... also if you think there are any flaws in using a fridge i'd like to hear it.
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 11:36 pm:|
A regular(incadescent) bulb would give off a good amount of heat.(prolly one would be enough, I think)
You might have to play with either the wattage of the bulb or a timer of some sort to keep the fridge at a stable heat, but it certainly could work. It should have great insulation.
Also, unless you are growning invitro, you will have to cover your jars with a towel or something in the begining to prevent pre-mature pinning.
You should be able to make that work good after playing with it a bit though.
Remember to stabilizr the temp. before you actually put anything in it though
|By I feel so weird (Phishgrower) on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 11:40 pm:|
You got your print from monkeyod? I haven't received mine yet.
|By Hudsonismss (Hudsonismss) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 04:36 am:|
havn't gotten mine yet, just planning ahead...
|By Fishy1 (Fishy1) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 04:44 am:|
See PFs site...the incubator he uses has a cheap thermostat hooked to a bulb or 2. Sounds good to me!!!
|By Fishy1 (Fishy1) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 04:45 am:|
...well, he does not necessarily USE ONE!
|By Hudsonismss (Hudsonismss) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 05:45 am:|
fishy what's the URL for that pf set up, i can't find it
|By ggg (Ggg) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 06:54 am:|
Hudson I see no mention of incubators at PFanaticus. I am not saying it is not there. I'm saying I can't find it without Fishys help either.
|By Fishy1 (Fishy1) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 07:07 am:|
Sorry...here it is in the archives! I must be high."incubator built inside a book shelf". Well shit, i gotta figger out how to get this workin....anyhow, search for it here, not on his site.
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 07:46 am:|
Here it is fellas....
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 10:06 am:|
My buddy uses a big shoe box or the box the jars came in. Just poke a small hole in the top and insert a thermometer down to where its bulb is in the exact center of the box (or to the center of the jars if the box is really tall). This will give an average temperature reading, as it will naturally be warmer at the bottom (where the heater is) and the top (because heat rises). The jars are placed on a metal rack (like for cooling cookies) inside the box. Put the box on a Dunlap heating pad (Wally world) and set to "medium". The trick is in the jerry-rigged dimmer. It's a wall plug-to-lightbulb adapter with an inline lightbulb dimmer screwed into the socket, and then a light socket-to-plug outlet adapter screwed into the dimmer. Like this:
wall outlet->adapt to bulb->dimmer->adapt back to outlet->pad's plug
The dimmer is set to about halfway between the point where the little LED (the light in the cord switch that tells you when the pad is on) blinks on and the end of the dimmer's rotation. This is for an ambient temp of about 65-68 F (buddy keeps his house cool in winter). This setting keeps his box atmosphere at 86-88 F.
This sounds complicated, but it is really very simple.
Try it out if you can't get your hands on a fridge or stainless incubator or an egg room...
On another note, the unfortunate side effect of insulated chambers is that with a constant heat source (no timer), it is very hard to regulate temperature. Heat just keeps building up and cannot radiate out quickly enough. Plus, as soon as you open the door (if it's a dry heat) all the warmth is lost except that which is trapped in the jars. This is OK at first, but the low level heating you will have to be using in the first place will not be sufficient to warm the air fast enough so that heat from those jars does not radiate out. It is a careful balance. If you want to go with insulated heat, it should be moist. But you know what warm, moist air promotes...
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 10:16 am:|
Oh yeah! (I know it's amazing I actually forgot something in such a huge post...)
Light will promote rapid growth, but if you have a variant that fruits too easily, it could be bad if the temp accidently drops for a few hours (it may start pinning before fully colonized). Also, a dark incubation leads to a greater fruiting response in the first flush, as the light is a stimulus to fruit (along with more oxygen and lower temps.)
I'm done, now.
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 12:50 pm:|
have you actually ever colonized in the light ?
i do it all the time, and my 1st flush is as big as it ever was.
the real primary stimulus to fruiting is when the mycellia fully colonizes all available substrate.
at that point, it will begin to fruit, even in the dark, but not very well.
no need to increase oxygen or lower temps, either, at least not with pf cakes, which will fruit invitro with no air exchanges at all.
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 09:43 pm:|
No, I don't grow. But my buddy has done it. And, yes, I realize that it may seem not to have an affect, as it is subtle. Buddy has experimented quite a bit with this kind of thing, and has found, on average, the 1st flushes to be larger when mycelia is colonized in total darkness. Just an observation.
Depending on the chunkiness of the substrate, the myc will decide when it has enough food to halt vegetative growth and begin the reproductive cycle. On the whole, though, you are correct.
Basically, Buddy just doesn't like to use the impedence of a tungsten filament to produce heat. Seems inefficient unless you want high-speed colonization, only.
Thanks for the feedback, though.
|By fungis amongus (Fungisamongus) on Friday, November 30, 2001 - 10:29 pm:|
I use a full size meat freezer for a terrarium - i use flourescent lighting for a heat source. it doesn't take much because the freezer is insulated and sealed off magnetically. its hooked on a timer with the humidifier and both come on about 30 minutes every 3 hours. i have a pretty consistent 75 degrees 95% humidity. only problem is a lot of condensation that needs to be soaked up every day on the bottom of the unit.
|By nuecrew (Nue) on Saturday, December 01, 2001 - 03:25 am:|
The fridge idea has been a pet thought of mine for an incubator. What I was thinking is take a small office type fridge(6-8 cu.ft.)that is no longer in service and use the light bulb inside as the heat source. I would loop the bulb with an Omron 32-122 degree temperature controller($90) that uses type J TC wire as temperature input. I have used the above design for 200 degree plus and was able to achieve 200 degrees +/- 1 degree. What you have is an electronic thermometer that switches the power on and off for the light bulb. Opening the door wouldn't be a problem for heat loss. Afterall it is an incubator, not an oven. It would cost however about $100 for the controller setup. You would have, however reliable digital temperature control. Maybe someday when I'm rich.
|By quote: (Quote) on Saturday, December 01, 2001 - 01:28 pm:|
toss some perlite in the bottom of your unit to soak up and recycle the condensation that collects down there.
|By fungis amongus (Fungisamongus) on Saturday, December 01, 2001 - 09:00 pm:|
yeah, i'll have to give the perilite a try. if I allow the condensation to stay in there with perilite, I'll probably be able to turn down the humidifier. the freezer/fridge idea is really good. You guys should all consider trying it. it stays insulated, and sealed off, and the freezer I have even has a lock on the door. plus they're huge right now its holding about 300 cakes and there's room for a few more.
|By Hudsonismss (Hudsonismss) on Monday, December 10, 2001 - 01:20 am:|
i'm havin trouble figuring out how to avoid keeping my fridge door open by having to run to lines in for my heater and my light. that is, i can't figure out how to run anything into the fridge without running them throught the door...anyone have any solutions from past experience?
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 11:08 pm:|
Just drill a hole thru the back. Run your wires thru then seal it with silicone.