|Straw Tek Tips||-|
|Coco "Coir" Casings||-|
|First Timers Setup||22||7/03||shakeyjake|
|I'm so happy I had to show it!!||30||AdNauseum|
|Compost Casings||7||6/03||Kermit the Frog|
|Monday Update, dung/in-vitro/casings/flies & New Hope||14||Dr. Cubesis III|
|Suspend cakes in mid air!||22||Chick|
|Where can I find the Chronic tek?||7||jim brown|
|By greenthumb (Greenthumb) on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 03:22 am:|
My friend will doing some casing of his PF cakes and he couldn't decide what recipe to cook up. He is leaning towards Hongus style, but he hopes to get more feed-back from the casing veterans who post around here. He truly values all input.
AND AS ALWAYS----------THANKS
|By oscill8 (Oscill8) on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 04:38 pm:|
hongus' casing instructions, with Coir instead of Verm. coir is very forgiving, no sterilization/pasteurization required, very airy, needs no buffering... etc. colonizes quickly (sometimes too quickly with aggressive strains like puerto ricans, but usually not a problem). it can dry out- but misting it will stave off the drying. coir's also cool since you can visibly see when its drying out; it begins to lighten and become more "orange" looking ... thats when to mist. theres really not a difference in "casing methods"- just the material you use for casing. (well, and the fact some use a bottom casing layer and some dont).
HQ crumbles her cakes in a ziploc (crumbling from outside in)- not with bare hands. just always done this and is neater.
|By Marx2k (Marx2k) on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 04:55 pm:|
My friend uses peat moss and worm poo in a 45%/45% mix. Then she adds vermeculite (very small amount, just to get rid of her bag of verm). Gypsum is added as well. A pinch or two. All this is mixed with water.. pasteurized.
When the myc pops up through that in a good amount, it is then covered in a 1/2" layer of coco fiber.
Thats all. And it works very well...
|By Nuecrew (Nuecrew) on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 05:16 pm:|
What is "coir's"? And what is "coco fiber"? And where do you find this worm poo and coco fiber? Nice pic Markx!
|By Marx2k (Marx2k) on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 05:53 pm:|
coir and coco fiber are one and the same. You can find worm poo at gardening centers, nurseries, etc.. Its some of the best fertilizer for plants you can find. CoCo FIber people can sometimes find at gardening centers, pet stores, hydroponic stores. My friend gets hers in a pet store.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:13 pm:|
* grin! *
Ok, I checked my buddies trays last night. The trays consist of, a 3/4 inch layer of verm, 1 full quart of birdseed per tray, and a half inch of 50/50 dung/verm on top.
He Put it together last weekend.
Here is the question.
Mycelia is overtaking the tops of the trays. There really is no repairing the top casing layer cause the rhizo growth is just hurtling across the tops
of the trays. The dung is being swallowed up BIG TIME. My buddy expects within a week, the entire tops of all his trays will have a huge white carpet of rhizo growth on top ( looks like quarter inch long fingers everywhere ) and then what?
Should they be ready to birth... Or pull the saran rather and inject some humidity into thier chamber
when the trays are fully covered?
Should my friend be patching the casing layer as the mycelia pops up and takes over? If so, should he use the 50/50 mix or just straight verm?
My buddy has never seen such explosive, aggresive growth, Crap seems to be quite the bomb when it comes to nutrition. Of course knew that already, but different to see it in practice..
Any tips on how to care for these babies from the point he is at would be so appreciated.
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:39 pm:|
sounds like it's about time to initiate pinning.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:50 pm:|
Shouldn't wait for the mycellia to overtake the entire tray?
|By quote: (Quote) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 06:29 pm:|
no, you don't want that.
since it takes some time for the mycellia to switch gears, it will still grow out a few days after initiating pinning conditions.
but it should not completely cover the tray,
that's overlay, and isn't good for casings,
as it stops water from penetrating.
start changing over when the trays' surfaces are about 20-30% colonized. really, you just want the valleys colonized, the low/thin spots where it grows thru 1st.
maybe patch the first couple spots it breaks thru,
but once it starts breaking thru all over,
it's time to initiate pinning conditions.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 06:44 pm:|
Tonight Will call my buddy, head over to his house and inititate some pinning!
You da man.
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 08:22 pm:|
A good rule of thumb with casings is to initiate pinning too early rather than too late.
Like Quote said, it takes the myc a while too "switch gears", to get into the fruiting mode. Even when you lower the temp, unless you cold shock it, I guess, it continues it's vegetative growth for a while.
If you get overlay your pin-set is gonna suck for sure.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 09:26 pm:|
Awww Crap Brettie
I thought the overlay was a good thing.
The only casings i've played with are my buddys
straight verm flat casings... Grrrrr.....
And those turned out quite nicely, er, well most of them...
My friend thought maybe he was ready to move up
and was overjoyed with the growth, now *LOL * he can't wait to stop it!
What is your suggestion as to what to do now?
An overnight cold shock in the fridge?
Trays are currently in a chamber that is
warm and dark. Could have my buddy turn on the
air exchange system on a timer or 24/7 to cool it off,
ditto with the sonic humidifier... The chamber is fully
sealed, maybe a large bucket of ice in the bottom???
And at the same time, start giving the trays some decent light?
( * Rats * have tube lighting ready to string thru the chamber but been putting it off. Buddy thought he had another week or so before he needed to mess with the casings... :0( ) Guess tonight lighting gets installed * sigh *...
Lame lame lame, I know, But this is muh buddies first time with colonized seed, as well as his first attempt at a dung casing. He never expected the myc to take over the tray...
Please throw me any suggestions that come to mind. I'm all ears.
|By Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer) on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 09:44 pm:|
"By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Saturday, October 06, 2001 - 12:01 am: Edit
I would recomend 75 degress to fruit.... 86 degrees to incubate, but have had many successes with temps that fluctuate wildly in the summer months.
From like close to 90 in my closet during the day to prolly the low 60's at night.
So long as you lower the co2 levely sufficiently and introduce the proper light to initiate the pinning cycle, it seems fruiting will still occour.
A dunk in the fridge to give a cold shock will surely be benefical in the cases where you feel the fruiting temps might be a bit high from time to time(regularly reach an excess of 75 degrees). "
|By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Saturday, January 05, 2002 - 02:58 am:|
I always worked with a 50/50 verm, peat casing... but with dung, since the mucelium will really like to colonize it, the timing of pin initiation is pretty important for a good pinset.
You kinda of get a feel for each casing material, I think, but essentially, you water up the substrate through a damp casing layer for the first few days until you see the myc start to poke through. You can cover up these first couple of spots if you like, and keep the casing layer nice and moist.
Once you see that you are gonna have about half of the casing layer colonized soon, initiate pinning.
I stop watering after that, aside from the small amount of overspray they get when I mist the sides of the terrarium... If you did everything right... the substrate should now be fully hydrated for that first flush.
Member No.: 440
Joined: Jan 17 03
my pesa casing tek (i
first - clean your hands, arms, working area, etc.
have a container, plastic, black, about 10x10x3 (can be anything that isn't see through. i spray painted my tupperware black).
i birth 4 half pint jars and clean off the extra vermiculite layer. i get a big bowl and put enough vermiculite in there to cover the bottom of the container about 1/2 inch deep. i mix in some water, just enough to get it good and wet so if you take a fistful and squeeze, you won't have it running out like a geyser. you just want a trickle. anyway, once you've mixed up the verm and water in the bowl, dump some in your container and pat it down, evenly covering the whole bottom.
then, crumble your cakes into little pieces and cover the whole verm layer evenly. don't leave any open spaces.
to case the top layer, you can use a variety of things.
i like coco coir and vermiculite - 50/50.
do a search in the archives on the coco tek and you can read about it. it works very well and the shrooms love it. i put about 3/4 inch layer on the substrate but DO NOT PAT DOWN like the bottom layer. you must keep it loose.
you can also just use plain old vermiculite that is damp. gotta keep that casing moist.
lightly cover with saran wrap and poke some holes in it. leave in a dark dark place at 84-85 degrees til you see white myc poking through the top layer. usually by the 2nd or 3rd day.
cover these areas with some fresh vermiculite, very thinly, and take your container over to your fruiting chamber to initiate pinning.
you remove the saran wrap and put your container in a terrarium that will be kept at 70 - 75 degrees, 85 - 90 % humidity, fanned several times a day, walls misted. i mix a gallon of water with 1/4 tsp hydrated lime and 1/4 tsp. bleach. this is what i use for spraying everything in the fruiting chamber. keep your casing soil moist... do not spray the mycelia... in 7 - 10 days, maybe longer, you should have pins.