See: Fungal Gnats : Insect Pests
|By Lichen (Lichen) on Thursday, October 25, 2001 - 11:03 pm:|
Nan, I just innoculated a jar of honeywater with my last Albino spores...I used your microwave tek. My very first!
I'm having problems with my straw beds...trich and cobweb perhaps transmitted through fruit flies. Next I intend to use saran wrap to keep the little buggers out....I haven't had a good flush in weeks. Seems h2o2 is mighty hard on mycelium. Actually five out of my last six beds have failed due to various contams...what a bummer
|By Nan (Nanook) on Thursday, October 25, 2001 - 11:27 pm:|
Use more Lime in the casing. I have found that lots of fresh air cuts down on the Cobweb, and lots of lime cuts down on the Trich.
Diatomaceous earth will kill them if sprinkled and mixed into the breeding
|By SYDYSTYK (Addict) on Thursday, October 25, 2001 - 11:37 pm:|
try using one of those sticky fly strips(fly paper?) it may work
|By jim brown (Shrhobbyist) on Friday, October 26, 2001 - 10:32 am:|
Fly paper will help but it won't get them all. If you don't get every single one of them, you're soon to have another million. If a case of fruit flies occurs it is often necessary to move everything out for about a week and spray everyday to kill the flies and also kill the flies that hatch from the eggs already laid. This is a big problem if you have plants where they have laid their eggs. I have heard of greenhouses having to get rid of every plant they have if they get white fruit flies. The white ones are the worst, that is the most difficult to get rid of.
|By Alfred E Neuman (Aeneuman) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:41 am:|
Anyone here had to deal with a fungus gnat problem??? Nasty spreaders of any molds or other contams...and very hard to control.
The question is how to control/eliminate them. Would assume that traditional sprays/powders are a bad thing as this is a consumable.
|By SYDYSTYK (Addict) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 12:14 pm:|
sit the gnats down and thoroughly talk to them about the consequences of their actions,most gnats ive encountered are fairly reasonable when you offer them alternatives to their destructive behavior
|By Lichen (Lichen) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 01:10 pm:|
I have a problem with fruitflies...tiny flies with red eyes. They get into everything, the wine, the fruit, the rotting compost, and my shrooms :0(
The only way I can keep them out is to seal them out with saran wrap and string or rubber bands, depending on the container. I don't like using pesticides, as a rule
|By Nozza (Nozza) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 01:45 pm:|
You can cover all openings with guaze to prevent them getting in.
You can also buy sticky traps from hardware/garden shops. They land on them and can't get off.
Serves the little bastards right.
|By Nan (Nanook) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 02:26 pm:|
Are the "Shell No Pest Strips" still available? This was a plastic strip with insecticide molded into the plastic. The pesticide slowly sublimes off and kills the critters. I have used them in the past with reptiles and noticed they kill fruit flies and gnats. Throw one on top of the grow chamber and I'd bet the problem would be solved in a couple of days. But I don't know if the product is still available.
|By Bobby (Bobby) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 02:54 pm:|
Lichen I know how to solve your fruit fly problem. Find a bug trap (local hardware store or insecticide store) it resembles a humming bird feeder but tiny. You place grenadine (sugar water) in the trap and hang it where you have your problem. The fly goe in to get the good stuff but get stuck inside (old bartender trick that works great)
|By Lichen (Lichen) on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 10:41 pm:|
old bartender trick? That's a gas!
I made up a straw/dung casserole dish two days ago, and covered it with saran..and Bingo! I made a fly trap they can't get out of. (I guess there was some small way in) So now I'm on fly patrol; every time I see one in there I uncover it and extract the insect. Probably doomed this one to failure, too.
You know what's cool about cakes? I can grow cakes all day long and never a contam, but all my other stuff seems doomed before I even try it. I guess I need a cool grow room.
|By plinkerdink420 (Plinkerdink420) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 01:14 am:|
syd you're funny as shit.... heheheheeee... loved that response
|By monkeyod (Monkeyod) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 07:00 am:|
I use my vacum to suck them up. Works great for small bugs like gnats but not so well for flys.
|By An guy (Boomer) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 07:43 am:|
Use a shopvac on flies. Works great.
Wait till night, that's best.
The ones on a ceiling are easiest to catch- upside down they seem to think they're safe.
On a vertical surface are next easier to catch, and on the floor or counter, right-side up seem to be the hardest- that's where they're the wariest. Spook them to get them flying, till they land on a vertical or ceiling. Let them sit a minute to cool down and relax, then ease up on them with the nozzle. Get close, then with a flick of the wrist, pass it over the little bastard- you'll get it.
I really need better hobbies....
|By ion ewe (Ion) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 09:56 pm:|
Hey guys. I know it's ben a while, but I've recently been dealing with gnats in the basement, so here goes...
Seal off whatever you don't want them in. At night, turn off the light. It also helps to keep the room fairly arid. Use some Desiccant in that closet or whatever. Take out any stinky food garbage. Empty any standing water in the kitchen or bath (flush and close the toilet lid).
Somewhere else in the house set up a small focused lamp over a wide pool of soapy water. It doesn't need to be deep. Put dish liquid in tub first. Add water in slow stream against the edge of the container. Stir/rub soap from the bottom with your finger slowly. The idea is not to make any suds. Just really low surface tension.
Don't add any bait to the water, just place it under the lamp's beam about 8-12 inches. Make sure the house is nice and dark (no open moonlit windows). Let it go overnight.
In the morning you will have much dead bug solution. Change the water each night until they're all gone. Happy hunting!
|By Lichen (Lichen) on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 11:47 pm:|
you've got it down to a science...reminds me of my grandfather's earwig trap...a coffee can half-filled with water...attracts them by the hundreds until they can almost survive by standing on their friend's corpses in a few nights
|Posted by: Molester Jan 11 03, 11:14 AM GMT|
|I hooked up a 100W bulb and left it running all night for a few days. What was left? A pile of carcasses! I'm talkin hundreds! Looked like spilled dirt on the carpet! So if you're having fly problems and don't want to waste your time hunting them down yourself, buy a hot bulb, like a halogen or somethin, and just leave it running at night. You'll be surprised!|
|Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 11 03, 11:30 AM GMT|
|Your in canada right? Whats up w/ gnats in the middle of winter? Aint it cold up there?|
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 11 03, 11:34 AM GMT|
| Man, if you have one gnat, you have a ton more - you don't see. They love dung based substrates & that is where they lay eggs & larva hatch.
That is why I seem anal about pasturizing -- things well. To kill the Mo Fo's contam's & gnats, or gnat larva.
Plus - always harp about positive pressure air filtration. Stops the bastards from getting into a grow area. Hang a few of those sticky strips. That helps.
Good luck. Sounds like you need it.
|Posted by: Molester Jan 11 03, 04:44 PM GMT|
| Maximus-its cold here now, but man, we don't live in friggin igloos! Room temp is all they need. And they're feeding off mold on the window frames mostly, or mildew in the washroom... whatever they can get. The basement is impossible to keep clean, but I have the rest remedied.
Mycota-you're right... the expression "breed like flies" didn't come about for nothin. Thanks for your advice again, but the bulb did it. I don't have gnats any more, I made this post, in case anyone else is having the same problem. The bulb alone worked! When I get my bills though, those dead gnats will be laughing in their graves
|Posted by: Kermit_The_Frog Jan 12 03, 01:48 AM GMT|
|Molester, I don't want to sound negative but they will be back. Be prepared.|
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 12 03, 02:00 AM GMT|
Kermit croaks truth, beware.
|Posted by: Molester Jan 12 03, 11:10 AM GMT|
| I'll be waiting
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 01 03, 02:16 PM GMT|
| Diatomite is neat stuff. To get the skinny on what it is;http://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/diatomite/250497.pdf
I hydrate some & add it to bulk substrates & caseing mixtures. It will absord 1.5 to more than 3 times it weight in moisture. Then, because of it's structure -- it will release that water very slowly. It will absorb more water, whenever you water a bulk substrate. So, it's use has long term benifits, over harvests.
This procedure just adds more water retaining ability to both substrate & casing mix's. Since shrooms are 90% water. This provides an excellant source of moisture - myc - can draw on - as it needs it.
I bake it in the oven first, to sterilize it. Then hydrate it with clean water. I add only about 2 or 3% of the volume of the substrate and/or casing mix.
Diatomite is inert, hurts nothing & creates a great source of water within substrate & casing mix's.
You can find it at most tropical fish stores. If you want it in bulk, try swimming pool supply places. They use it in pool water filtration.
|Posted by: DirtyWOP Jan 01 03, 02:21 PM GMT|
| will it cut you?
It cuts slugs right?
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 01 03, 02:50 PM GMT|
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 01 03, 02:58 PM GMT|
| Diatomaceous Earth is a natural compound with many elements which include:
Silicon Dioxide SiO2 83.7%
Aluminum Oxide A1203 5.6%
Iron Oxide Fe203 2.3%
Calcium Oxide CaO 0.4%
Magnesium Oxide MgO 0.3%
Other Oxides 1.9%
Ignition Loss at 1000 5.3%
Semi quantitive spectrographic analysis of other elements:
Diatomaceous Earth has a unique combination of physical properties:
High Porosity: Up to eighty-five percent of the volume of Diatomaceous Earth is made up of tiny interconnected pores and volds. It is quite literally more air than diatom.
High Absorption: Diatomaceous Earth can generally absorb up to 1 times, its own weight in liquid and still exhibit the properties of dry powder.
Particle Structure/High Surface Area: Diatom particles are characterized by their very irregular shapes, generally spiny structures and pitted surface area. They average only 5 to 20 microns in diameter, yet have a surface area several times greater than any other mineral with the same particle size. Diatomaceous Earth increases bulk without adding very much weight. These features, it is believed, are what make it an ideal mineral for internal parasite control in animals: It is approved by the USDA up to 2% by weight of total ration for use as an inert carrier or anti-caking agent in animal feed. It is not necessary to use this percent of product on a continual basis. It may be varied to suit individual purposes.
Grain Storage: A rate of seven pounds per ton of grain in barley, buckwheat, corn, wheat, oats, rice, rye, sorghum and mixtures of these grains. It is most effective when grain is treated directly after harvest by coating the outside surface of the gain. This can be done by applying the powder at the elevator or auger when grain is being moved into storage.
When used at proper rates, Diatomaceous Earth has been effective against ants, aphids, bollworm, salt marsh caterpillar, cockroach, cornworm, earwig, house fly, fruit fly, lead perforator, leaf hopper, lygus bug, mite, pink boll weevil, red spider mite, slugs, snail, termites, Japanese beetle (grub stage) and many other insects.
For more info, search with google & use "Diatomite USDA" as search words.
|Posted by: HapplyDeranged Jan 01 03, 06:19 PM GMT|
|can you use it instead of verm?? or is it not cheap??|
|Posted by: 420M Jan 01 03, 07:10 PM GMT|
| No. .. You CAN'T.
Why do you want to substitute verm?
Its light, cheap, and readily available in almost ANY garden center.
Good Luck - 420M
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 01 03, 07:18 PM GMT|
|Posted by: DirtyWOP Jan 01 03, 07:24 PM GMT|
| You know what?
Lately I have been having real problems finding verm.....so have others....
I've had 4! stores tell me they don't make it anymore.
Which is bullshit, I know.....
But other people have been having this problem for over a year....
I've heard that an asbestos scare is what stopped them from producing it...
But I've also been told thats not true, that they do still produce it.....
but the fact remains that I can't get verm.
Ace hardware, True Value, Lowes, and walmart don't carry it. The one garden shop around here ran out and hasn't stocked up yet. It's been a while too.
If they really stopped making it, the pf tek is over....
You know what else?
Other people have told me that they don't make scotts 3-n-1 anymore...
I was in lowes the other day....they have two palletes of it.....
Who friggin knows.....
I don't use much verm anymore anyway thank god
|Posted by: HapplyDeranged Jan 01 03, 07:26 PM GMT|
| i was just asking incase verm becomes hard to find (very unlikely). and to maby try someting new. dirty i think the stores are just out for the winter....who gardens in the snow??
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 01 03, 07:35 PM GMT|
| Well, you got me thinking.
If it were crushed & screened to about verm size. It may work as a replacement. But, that would be a pita. It has a consitancy, about like chalk, only super light. I just throw some in a blender & churn it into dust. Mycota
|Posted by: dequilo Jan 01 03, 08:18 PM GMT|
| hello good link for gradening supplies year round I have order many things from them and they are very nice to deal with Peace Dequilo
"I never thought freedom was cheap" Ralph (Sonny) Barger
|Posted by: Kermit_The_Frog Jan 01 03, 11:51 PM GMT|
|Thats a good link, they have 64 Qt of Verm for $10.95. I only know of one place that sells verm around me, a lawn and garden store. It costs $4.75 for 12 Qt so maybe I should start buying it from this place.|
|Posted by: phillinwierd Jan 05 03, 11:40 PM GMT|
| As well as being used for its water retention properties it would help control any fungus gnat infestations too wouldn't it? I've had some problems with them in the past (once established they eat the fruit). I have been able to keep them under control using sticky yellow cards hung in the fruiting room(they're attracted to the color yellow, stick there and die). These cards are used in the greenhouse not as a control method but to monitor hot spots and entry paths. Seems to me diatomaceous earth would attack the larvae and break the reprodutive cycle. Just sprinkle a little on the casing layer? What do you think Mycota?
|Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 06 03, 12:09 AM GMT|
I had a terrible gnat prob last summer, I mean I had thousands 20 ft out my back door. Inside they were everywhere!!They lay eggs in the soil of your house plants and casings, and keep coming back just when you think you've finally rid the house of them.
Only way you beat em, is to keep the trash in a closet or sealed container,
empty often, and no stinky stuff in the trash indoors. Keep those dishes clean!! And remove all stagnant water, and spray the soils of house plants w/ mild detergent solution regularly. That is how I got rid of mine, and I had em BAD.
All the tricks and traps, sprays and nets bullshit doesn't work, I tried em all.
Just keep things clean and you will be alright.
|Posted by: phillinwierd Jan 06 03, 12:19 AM GMT|
| thanks for the response FM. It seems the only place they like to hang out is in the fruiting room. I do a periodic tear down and cleansing in there, but like you say they're persistant sonsabitches. I take it you don't agree with my thoughts on using diatomaceous earth.
|Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 06 03, 12:44 AM GMT|
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 06 03, 08:14 AM GMT|
| Gnats are nasty. The light gizmo on the right is an electronic gnat zapper. It works.
|Posted by: Fungusmaximus Jan 06 03, 08:26 AM GMT|
|Yea, that works but doesn't get rid of the problem permanently.|
|Posted by: Malformed Jan 06 03, 08:42 AM GMT|
| also, when the bugs get zapped, they tend to explode.
sending tiny little bug particles all over the place.
brings a whole new meaning to... bug spray
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 06 03, 09:28 AM GMT|
| The zapper is there as front line defense.
The object is, if a gnat gets into a grow room. In the light off phase, the zapper is on & emits a light that attracts them to it. They fry on contact. Hopefully before they lay eggs in any substrate.
If gnats infect a substrate, their larva eat it, the myc, pins & shrooms.
Grrr... the bastards.
If you get an infestation. Best to trash can tek all substrates, clean the room, bomb it - several times - with bug bomb. Then, clean it - again.
Then start over.
Object is to not allow the bastard gnats - entry into a grow space.
Key there is to pasturize substrates well. Have positive pressure & filtered ventilation. The cannot get through a hepa filter.
|Posted by: Sgt.Poop Jan 07 03, 09:42 PM GMT|
|THANK GOD I LIVE WHERE ITS TOO COLD FOR 6MONTHS TO GET BUGS!!!!!!!.|
|Posted by: Mycota Jan 08 03, 04:04 PM GMT|
|Posted by: DirtyWOP Jan 08 03, 05:30 PM GMT|
the little fuckers have penetrated my growroom too
right now...they are breeding
damnit.....nothing I can do?
I have a bug zapper...
As for the verm replacement.....I doubt it
I'd rather use soil and perlite or something
|Posted by: Molester Jan 08 03, 11:55 PM GMT|
|Gotta grab the bull by the balls. Find what they're feeding on and dispose of it, no matter how hard it is to let go of. Then kill off whatever fuckers are left. My weapon of choice is a spray bottle with rubbing alcohol in it, and a lighter. At night, set up a dummy tank with a light in it. The flies will congregate on the glass making an easy holocaust.|
|Posted by: Qwerty Jun 10 03, 02:24 AM GMT|
| I'm having a hard time finding this diatomite stuff. I take it that I should prolly go to a fish store or a pool store. I am at somewhat of a loss as to what to say to the man @ the pool store though, as I dont know what the stuff is used for in pools. Does any one know?
and also what do ya'll think that the best way to apply this stuff to straw that has already been pasturized?
|Posted by: Nanook Jun 10 03, 03:25 AM GMT|
| I have seen this stuff around.
You will find in most pet stores handling lots of salt water fish. You will also find it at many pool and hot tub suppliers.
As for applying it... Dust it on.
|Posted by: Qwerty Jun 10 03, 03:36 AM GMT|
| I got a plan:
i'm gonna go to both kinds of stores and telling the proprieter that my GF, who is taking a class in agriculture, is doing a study on the stuffs effect on controling pests on animal feed.
This imaginary GF is quite useful for this hobby, I use similar storys to explain to the guy @ the organic foods store why I need 10lbs of millet. I guess I dont look like the type of person who uses millet for legit pourposes, as I always get a strange look @ the checkout counter.
I am currently soaking my first bucket of WBS, so hopefully I'm done using organic millet which is quite expensive compared to WBS.
*edited to add this question:
What do people do w/ rye berries and millet other than grow boomerz? I go to the organic food store and there is all this grain, do people cook it up and eat it? do the grind it up and make dough out of it? I dont get it.
|Posted by: Nue Jun 10 03, 04:04 AM GMT|
|I've heard of that stuff years ago. I know the beer industry uses alot of it. I can't wait to try out my new diatomatious earth. Baked for sterility, hydrated, added to 3% of volume. And when the ants come again. That wax coating on insects sure is important. Termite soldiers have heads with a turpentine like juice they squirt that melts the wax coating on ants and as you said they dry out.|
|Posted by: repobob Jun 10 03, 06:35 AM GMT|
| Years ago I was into tropical fish. The stuff was used in a "Diatom Filter". Its so fine in size that it really cleans the water that runs through it. If I remember it was a little expensive buying in a pet store, but there is your excuse.
My usual answer to any questions about what I buy is: Wow, has the terroist threat gotten so bad that the government makes you ask what I'm doing with this stuff". I then smile and pass it off as a joke.
First bucket of WBS, your gonna love it. Colonizes great. Just remember strain very good.
|Posted by: highroller Jun 10 03, 07:53 AM GMT|
| You can buy 10lb. bags of diatomaceous earth at greenhouses and feed mills for about $10.00. A bag will last you years when mixed in with the casing before pasteurizing. Works great for controlling fungus gnats.
I think bob roberts(?) brought up the possibility that it may be harmful when ingested and did not recommend its use. Myself, I don't think one would ingest an amount large enough to do any harm from a dose of mushies. Furthermore, the bag instructions recommend its use on food crops such as in your veggie garden for insect control(your reason for purchase). I suppose that if one were really concerned about it they could remove the lower portion of the mushie that contacts the surface of the casing layer before consumption.
|Posted by: repobob Jun 10 03, 09:02 AM GMT|
Saved me some dough, Thanks
Theoretically, sounds like maybe I should tell a friend of a friend's friend. Maybe he can try it this week.
|Posted by: mycofile Jun 10 03, 03:30 PM GMT|
|Posted by: Qwerty Jun 10 03, 03:40 PM GMT|
| "maybe your fly was open?"
Agreed, I am just curious as to what the other uses for these whole grains are aside from growing mushrooms and feeding birds.
|Posted by: mycofile Jun 11 03, 11:46 AM GMT|
| Well, you buy them at health FOOD stores, right? Which typically sell things for human consumption. Now the strange look may be, who the hell is really going to eat 50#'s of millet?
Now perhaps if you bought lots of corn and sugar you might be suspected of brewing whisky. Or even less likely if you bought lots of rye, an enlightened employee might suspect you are looking for ergot. But thats about the only illegitimate purposes I would imagine even the unaverage employee might consider, and if they did think of those things, they are probably cool enough to mind their own business.
It's just food.
|Posted by: rooster Jun 11 03, 12:19 PM GMT|
|you guys crack me up|
|Posted by: Qwerty Jun 11 03, 02:24 PM GMT|
|Agreed, but again, which method would you say is the most common way for millet to be consumed by humans as FOOD. I'm not much of a cook, my repitwa (sp!) consists of buffalo wings, steaks, french fries and patato (sp. dan quale [sp.]) chips (i love deep frying). Basicaly I know nothing about whole grains for human consumption other than the fact that I like rice. enlighten me.|
|Posted by: Bob Roberts Aug 10 03, 09:33 PM GMT|
| Heh, I kind of got crapped on in that archive thread. Oh well, I just want to repeat my warnings.
NOT ALL DIATOMACEOUS EARTH IS SAFE FOR CONSUMPTION
Make sure that it contains less than 3% silica. If it doesn't tell you, then don't get it. If you can get less than 3% silica then pay more for it.
The big thing here is that you're treating the symptoms and not the root of the problem. The root of the problem is that when you have fungus gnats, you are not doing what you need to in order to keep them out. Treat your problem, then figure out a way to EXCLUDE them. Be it sanitation, screening air intakes, or rethinking your whole method, just do it. I bet you money that if you keep them out, they won't get in.
Shroom Glossary : Fungal Flies