PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS BY RAGNER ROCKER

Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers,

principals and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of

hatred of this person i would advise that you do some of these following

experiments:

(1) Pouring dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already

know that gasoline + dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture

called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like substance used in bombs,

flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do to

someone's fuel line!!!!

(2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone's exhaust pipe- when

the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the pipe

will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car.

Who knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!!

(3) Light Bulb Bomb- see part one of the file

(4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under

the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very

strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a

firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very

lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into

the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value

your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so.

FUN WITH ALARMS

A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can

also use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. You can

purchase this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easy to handle and

dries faster.

Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small

device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his

body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by

walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly.

if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal

object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think

someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and

games will ensue.

Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a

registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most

use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from

all fingerprints by using a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. after the keypad

has been used just apply finger print dust and all four digits will be marked.

now all you have to do is figure out the order. if you want to have some fun

with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the same time. many units use this

as a panic button. This will bring the owner and the cops running and ever-one

will have a good time. never try to remove these panels from the wall, as

they have built-in tamper switches.

On the subject of holdups, most places (including supermarkets, liqour

stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are

placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are

with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make

your withdrawl it's best to help yourself so you can check for these little

nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of

twenties, and then pull out the twenties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind

to prevent the circuit from closing.

SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:

THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON

This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a

soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other

explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is

then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.

! ! After first making sure there are no

! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine

! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set

---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not

! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give

! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then

!* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby.

! ! ! !

! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER

! ! !% !

! ==== !

! !

! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would

! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's

! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude

! / ! person should try to drink from your

! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit

--------- fast!

Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf

TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE

1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can.

2) add a few drops of glycerine

3) wait 3-4 min.

4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame..

** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]

** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy...

** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]

EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER

INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the

attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you would

like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how

to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does

it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the

resourses and materials available to you.

Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because

they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is

going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials

that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you

need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting

point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a

small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a

firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is

easy.

HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL

This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume

Potassium or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of

this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step

back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest

a lot of experiments for this.

ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL

Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you

experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful

explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast

burning rate.

--- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be

harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this.

I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been

instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in

certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid,

Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be

notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you

need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out

something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I

am guessing you would prefer it that way.

HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES

Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up;

then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets

easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for

a bomb without dying of boredom.

Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of

black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that

gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A

science teacher was killed that way.

Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you

can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your

thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly

against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2

feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat

to light the match.

Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper

match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.

Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right,

the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.

I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are

made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws

off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff

wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of

wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole.

It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets

hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.

HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID

Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should

only cost a few dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of dilute

sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The

glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container.

Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until

white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot

plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass

container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no

metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb

moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time

bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and

follow me into the next installment.

HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:

To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts

by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the

mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a

spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid

in the depression and step back.

It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames.

To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a

small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the

clorate/sugar mixture.

Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos

fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric

acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite

the mixture.

The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying

how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react

with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the

side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and

used to set off the device of your choice.

Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can

be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them

extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way.

But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have

decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but

for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses.

PEROXYACETONE

PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK

SENSITIVE.

MATERIALS-

4ML ACETONE

4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID

150MM TEST TUBE

Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops

concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to

appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40

celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and

filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To

ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at

least a meter away) .

I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical

demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some

experiments.

...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG

This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting

experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work

depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and

brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some

knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments.

I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this

information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who

are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments.

I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION

VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE

DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE

AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID

TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE

MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE

RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)

GENERATING CHLORINE GAS

This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you

shouild know what you're doing before you try this...

Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach',

and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something

like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and

put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since

the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use

large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!).

CHLORINE + TURPENTINE

Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the

bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start

burning...

GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS

To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react

with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium,

etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter

than air.... light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.

Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this

involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric

current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two

test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking

6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of

water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside

them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some

wire going down to the electrodes.

This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the

oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon

electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the

chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to

form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some

sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than

making the water conduct electricity.

WARNING: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC

inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and

Oxygen at each electrode.

HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE

Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it

inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted

with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The

hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity

and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not

react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is

turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

PREPARATION OF OXYGEN

Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from

a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off

oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.

Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the

bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things

to burn better...

IODINE

Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To

seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat

it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the

tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol

should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine

crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't

tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen

triiodide.

...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!

I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react

to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with

rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and

possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)

David Richards

TRIPWIRES

by The Mortician

Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about

landmines... If you can't then here is the concept.

You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that

will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt

battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can

create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this.

------------------>+ batery

steel || ->- batery

wool || /

:==:--- <--fuse \

|| /

---- spst switch--\

So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or

igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.

Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of

wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the

explosive.

Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury

it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie

one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a

loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that

when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.

To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and

find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques...

On my board... (201)376-4462

BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame)

Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented,

and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby

trap.

There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise

remains the same. What you'll need:

3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to

bend easily (galvanized iron works well)

6 feet of wire or fishing line

5-15 feet of strong string or rope

1 really sick mind.

Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so

they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30

degrees.

Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your

nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or

string so the line comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string

so the loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail

between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others

(see diagrams)

bent nails

/ || ^ slight upward tension

# /\ ||

#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)

# ------!----()------

# trip wire

\ /

Trunk third nail

Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the

other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a

stump etc).

When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your

sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing

pin).

There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be

attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip

wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two

bent nails.

A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a

hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is

attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring.

||

*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*

SPRING BOLT Trip wire

With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if

it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.

Improvised Explosives

Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich

CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT KILLING

HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS.

This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive

exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C

Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It

needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by

treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg.

C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained.

This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking

with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper

reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium

chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that

it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that

the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that

the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene

glycol.

It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine.

Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the

chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this

explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good

idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final

explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:

Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%

In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with

the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to

shock as is nitroglycerin.

The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix

these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This

kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when

the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use

this explosive as soon as possible.

If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This

explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very

powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent.

These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the

manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and

ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use

them.

Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with

an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been

made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very

few mis haps.

Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the

stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of

nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an

anvil.

Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I

mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any

doubts DON'T.

Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich

This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive

compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled

and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's

its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and

kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.

This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin.

It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an

artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar

but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in

approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric

acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified

aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the

final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be

taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric

acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin

and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive.

They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.

To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but

buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine

consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this

powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will

dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that

was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount

than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the

alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex

dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of

crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.

Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and

dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat

to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric

frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good

cooking oil.

When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker,

that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This

next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a

good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any

procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding

58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in

the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas

(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.

The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until

the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the

beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is

allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped

slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow

crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in

200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then

the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very,

very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and

places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours.

This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer.

The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder

consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax

and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the

crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands.

This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The

detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but

simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work

requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for

shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive

as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again

this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care.

AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF

INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE

RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.

THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH

ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE

UP AS NEEDED.

Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich

This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and

explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main

explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German,

and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively

safe to manufacture.

One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,

sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures

that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively

while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as

just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is

not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause

the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and

yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives

are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.

To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite

solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large

pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium

chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in

the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63

g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this

solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading

is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).

When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator

until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals

that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on

the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have

formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.

Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and

mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.

distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.

Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process

if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should

be relatively pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to

drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax.

Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on

90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a

plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately

mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,

dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.

This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density

(1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges

guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not

suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low

detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be

considered the same for the sake of charge computation.

If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the

manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the

wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The

addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation

velocity is 3300 m/sec..

Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound By the Lich

This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of

production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure

product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process.

In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water

and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium

chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice

due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate.

This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the

ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or

equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process

mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation

reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g.

H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough

boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky

substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this

chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling

hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed.

This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid

left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution

reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear

filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water

evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved.

These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to

drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to

a very fine powder (400 mesh).

If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization

is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the

resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The

powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with

vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO

FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in

this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower

detonation velocity.

This explosive is composed of the following:

potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10%

Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline

carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is

used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.

The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of

2-3% aluminum substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this

aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will

ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this

explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec.

for the sodium salt based explosive.

Addendum 4/12/91:

It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume

that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and

that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.

ASSORTED NASTIES:

Sweet-Oil

In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if

you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil

out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure

that I did some damage.

Slow Air

Ok, sneak up the victims car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her

tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there

tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is

blows out on the road wih a razor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't

cut a hole all the way through) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and

cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out

at a high speed if your lucky.

Vanishing Paint

Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his

paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190.

Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough.

Loose Wheel

Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This

can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off.

Dual Neutral

This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On

the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts

and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could

chip some of the teeth off the gears.

Un-Midaser

Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust

so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on

transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you

work the more you fuck them over.

LAUGHING GAS

Learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of

the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the

patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing.

Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.

Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is

because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were

inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.

The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of

the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag

under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee!

To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply

house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.

First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you

evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy

brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when

a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.

When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break

it up and store it in a bottle.

A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading

into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.

When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If

white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.

When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.

CAUTION: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize it. It's

easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing

reflex doesn't know it. Do not put your head in a plastic bag

(duhh...) because you will cheerfully choke to death.

PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS

Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years

by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or

to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any

danger of apprehension.

They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to

force out the spent shell.

There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.

First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest

in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong

tape.

The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger

flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The

trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.

The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe

with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing

through the pipe.

The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through

it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass

through the hole and rest on the primer.

To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with

the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the

trigger and the thing actually fires.

Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store.

All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.

Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other.

For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas

line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the

firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a

wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of

steel pipe with threads and a cap.

Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell.

The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second

accomodates its wider powder chamber.

A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to

comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.

Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has

a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small

nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the

front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought

around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.

In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it

by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to

where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go

off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel

does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings

may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use.

Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon

Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book

'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l

Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!

I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes

only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their

fucking school to kingdom scum!

Astrolite

The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant

research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most

powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than

TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it

isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.

Astrolite G

"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very

high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for

nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual

characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed

easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite

G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was

soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!

To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)

Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight

'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that

the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,

that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'

hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...

Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting

hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic

hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization

catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic

developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be

careful with.

Astrolite A/A-1-5

Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with

hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has

a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.

Misc. info

You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens

though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be

able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.

Sodium Chlorate Formulas

Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a

substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find

sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used

in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.

Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder

65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top.

Rocket Fuel

6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.

Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)

50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand),

10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur

You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.

Incendiary Mixture

55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur

Impact Mixture

50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate

Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when

mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.

Filler explosive

85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder

Nitromethane formulas

I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.

Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139

flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f

Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.

Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,

fats, etc.

To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:

1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline

Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.

Nitromethane 'solid' explosives

2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)

soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is

supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin,

and has 30% more brilliance.

MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent!

Materials:

1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off

switch

It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this

one or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces!

1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up.

2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord

3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)

4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching

the Hot-spot contact.

5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!

6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.

7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!

All credits go to their respective creators..

-= Exodus =-

1994

Release 4.14